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| Painting above the doorway |
The other interesting feature of the piazza di Santa Maria Novella were two tall marble obelisks anchoring each end of the plaza. Both obelisks rested on four bronze turtles, sculped by the artist Giambologna. (I really liked the turtles - a nice touch to these otherwise somber monuments!) Our guide mentioned these obelisks originally served as turning points for chariot races held from the 16th to the 19th centuries.
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| Church facade artwork |
Now it was time to see more of this art-filled city. Our guide led us away from piazza di Santa Maria Novella and into the crowded streets of Florence. I couldn't believe the amount of people! The entire street, curb to curb, was filled with tourists on holiday. After spending most of our last four days in smaller towns, it was quite overwhelming.
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| Obelisk in the square |
Unbeknownst to Kim and I, when we signed up for this specific tour, the dates we'd chosen coincided with not one, not two, but three Italian holidays. April 25th was Liberation Day, which just happened to be today. It was a national holiday observed by all Italians, very similar to America's 4th of July. I found the streets of Florence were absolutely crammed with people, all in town to celebrate. Our original tour itinerary had us visiting the Academia Gallery on our first afternoon in Florence. However since all museums were free (and crowded) on holidays such as today, the main tour guide had moved this onto tomorrow's schedule.
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| I liked the four turtle sculptures holding up the obelisk |
Pushing through the crowds, my group followed our local guide along the busy streets. Our guide stopped at one wall, blank except for a window and small small door below. She explained this little door was known as a "wine window" and they were very popular here in Florence. During the 16th century, these portals were carved into walls and used by nobles to sell excess wine tax-free. There were about 150 wine windows identified throughout the city. Most are now sealed, but a handful were still in operation, actively selling wine or other spirits during evening hours.
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| One of many wine windows in Florence |
Florence, we learned, got its start as a Roman garrison. Later it became the of center of medieval European trade and finance, making it one of the wealthiest cities of that time. But its claim to fame happened in the 14th century with the Renaissance. Florence is considered to be the birthplace of the Renaissance, becoming a major artistic, cultural, political, and commercial center during that era. The city rose to a position of enormous influence in Italy, Europe, and the rest of the world. Today, Florence is known for its Renaissance art and architecture. It is home to some of world's most famous art museums, such as the Uffizi Gallery and the Academia.
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| Typical street scene |
Our local guide kept talking as we wandered through the busy lanes of Florence. Parked Vespa scooters lined the side of one street. In a large, urban environment with narrow roads and limited parking spots, I could see why so many Italians owned one of these.
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| LOTS of Vespas here! |
On one street corner I noticed a horse and buggy mixed in with the pedestrians and bicycles. In operation for the benefit of all the tourists in town for the holiday, I assumed.
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| A horse drawn carriage for tourists |
The streets were lined with tall buildings, most of them dull, earth-tone colors. The streets were mainly cobblestone, which was very uneven. Sometimes there was a narrow sidewalk, built of the same bumpy material. One really needed to watch their step when walking here.
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| More street scenes |
Our local guide then led us to a tall, imposing building consisting of large, tan stone blocks. She identified this as the Palazzo Strozzi, an important historical palace built in the late 1400s by a rival of the powerful Medici family, who at the time ruled Florence.
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| Palazzo Strozzi |
The structure was important for its architecture - high arched windows, wrought iron adornments, and a large interior courtyard. We were led inside to have a look at the building's impressive courtyard, and it was beautiful.
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| Inside the Palazzo Strozzi |
Today, the Palazzo Strozzi operates as a museum and cultural center. Many art exhibitions are displayed within the walls of this once-palace.
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| Arch in Piazza della Repubblica |
From the Palazzo Strozzi's courtyard, we were ushered back onto the streets, and down another crowded lane. We passed under a towering archway that led into another large plaza. This was Piazza della Repubbica, an elegant square in the heart of the city, boasting a beautiful restored vintage carousel and lined with many upscale cafes.
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| Florence city scale model |
This plaza appeared to be a very popular spot with the locals and tourists alike, as it was jammed with people. The one attraction our local guide wanted us to see was a bronze city map of the historical area of Florence, which was set on a pedestal in the plaza's center. It looked very cool - several important buildings were depicted, and it even showed the Arno River that ran through the city. We had to wait for a bit to get close to this map, as another tour group was crowded around it. When it was our turn, our guide pointed out a few items of interest, which I promptly forgot.
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| Lotti wanted in the picture! |
After the Florence geography lesson, our tour continued down another busy street. Here I noticed a few artists had laid their paintings directly on the pavement, in the path of cars and people. They were apparently trying to sell their art, but it seemed like an unconventional way to do so. Our guide warned that if we accidentally stepped on any of their artwork, the artist would demand we buy it. You can be sure I watched my step after that!
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| Street artists |
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| You didn't dare step on their artwork |
Down another street we passed by a bride and groom posing for wedding photos. I thought it kind of a strange place for that sort of thing!
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| We caught a bride and groom getting wedding pictures taken |
Rounding another corner, our group came upon a huge covered area with numerous retail booths underneath. This was Mercato Nuovo, Florence's largest street market. Known for selling all sorts of leather items, straw hats, and silk scarves, it was established in the mid 1500's.
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| Mercato Nuovo, Florence's large street market |
Florence is well known for its quality leather goods. Inside the Mercato Nuovo, there appeared to be hundreds of stalls, each selling what appeared to be the same selection of brightly colored handbags, wallets, and other items made of leather. All these products were quite enticing - it would have been fun to browse around the market, but our tour had a schedule to keep.
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| Florence is known for their leather goods |
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| Lots of things to buy here! |
We passed by the other famous attraction of the market, a bronze boar statue called Fontana del Porcellino (or piglet fountain.) Our guide told us that rubbing the boar's snout is believed to guarantee you'll return to Florence. Judging by the snout's shiny appearance, I'd say there's a lot of people who will be coming back!
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| Famous pig statue in the market |
Time to move on! We were led by our guide through more extremely crowded streets. Through a gap between buildings I glimpsed a tall brick tower with a clock on its lower half. The moon's half circle stood out amidst the blue sky. (Can you see it on the photo below?) As we approached this building and the square surrounding it, I learned the brick building underneath this tower was the Palazzo Vecchio, a 13th century palace now used as Florence's city hall.
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| Florence town hall - the Palazzo Vecchio |
In front of this building there was a huge public square, called Pizza della Signoria. And it was jam-packed full of people. A band was playing music and everyone seemed to be there for the concert.
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| Approaching the Piazza della Signoria |
Our guide told us that a Liberation Day celebration was taking place in this public square. That's why it was so crowded. Adjacent restaurants' outdoor seating areas were full of people, enjoying a drink and snack. Another large crowd was concentrated in front of the city hall building, where the band was located.
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| The place was absolutely packed with holiday revelers |
The band struck up a song that our guide identified as a very patriotic Italian anthem. I could hear many people in the crowd singing along. It was a moving experience witnessing all these proud Italians expressing love for their country.
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| Flags on display |
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| Clock tower in the town hall |
This plaza was full of beautiful sculptures. A nearby covered area, called the Loggia dei Lanzi, held several interesting well-known works of sculptural art. I didn't know it at the time, but later research identified several statues that I wish I would've looked at and photographed. However, the loggia was so full of people that I wasn't about to go sightseeing.
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| Crowds gather under the Loggia dei Lanzi |
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| The outside dining areas were packed |
There were other sculptures scattered throughout the plaza, but one of the most well-known was a replica of the famous David statue. The original, sculpted by Michelangelo, was in the Academia Gallery (which we'd visit tomorrow.)
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| David statue replica in the Piazza del Signoria |
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| Lots of statues under the Loggia dei Lanzi |
A lot of people lived in apartment buildings surrounding this public square, and I noticed a few of them out on their balconies, enjoying the music without having to deal with the crowds.
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| A nearby couple watches the show from their balcony |
After visiting the Piazza della Signoria, our city walking tour was starting to wind down. However, we had one final, very important attraction yet to see - Florence's most famous cathedral of them all.
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| The city was so crowded it was almost claustrophobic |
To get there we had to wind through some of the most congested streets in Florence. I was surrounded by so many tourists that I began to feel claustrophobic. I am definitely not a fan of huge crowds. At the moment, I wasn't liking this city at all.
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| Another shot of the crowds |
However after literally shimmying our way through the throngs of holiday travelers, we rounded a corner and I got my first glimpse of Florence's most iconic building - a cathedral simply called the Duomo.
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| Florence's most famous landmark - the Duomo |
Oh what a magnificent building it was! The white marble walls gleamed in the late afternoon sunshine, accented by striking pink and green marble. The bell tower soared high above the street. And to one side, stood the famous reddish-orange masonry dome, an engineering wonder in its time. Such a glorious and impressive sight!
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| The Duomo and Brunelleschi's dome |
Construction of the Duomo began in 1296. It was planned to be the largest church in the world at that time. However the roof of the church and the dome remained unfinished because in the 13th century people lacked the technology to construct a covering spanning its 140-foot wide hole. Because the Duomo was built over an old cathedral, it remained in place and people used it for mass in the meantime.
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| Another view of the dome |
After remaining unfinished for over 100 years, in 1418, the city fathers announced a design competition for the dome. A man named Filippo Brunelleschi was chosen. He designed a revolutionary "dome within a dome" with the inner dome providing most of the structural support. This dome was built upward, brick by brick, like an igloo, supporting itself as it became taller. Finished in a mere 16 years, it was the largest dome completed since ancient Rome's Pantheon. Brunelleschi's dome became the model for many future domes, such as St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. It also became an iconic symbol of Florence.
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| The Baptistry building to the left of the Duomo |
The Duomo's outer facade remained unfinished brick until 1870, when it was finally clad with the decorative marble that one sees today. Many intricate Gothic arches, mosaics, and statues were also added with this exterior upgrade, giving it an overwhelming, outrageous appearance. Although I was told some people dislike this busy facade, I found it quite beautiful.
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| Another view of the Baptistry |
Across the street from the Duomo was an eight-sided structure, also decorated lavishly, although not quite as opulent as the neighboring cathedral. This was the Baptistry building. Built in the 11th century on top of Roman foundations, it was one of Florence's oldest surviving buildings. Because you had to be church member to attend mass in the cathedral, people were first baptized in this building before they were allowed to enter the church.
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| Stunning bronze East Doors on the Baptistry |
The Baptistry building was known for its decorative doors. The most famous were the East Doors, which faced the cathedral. These doors were created by a young artist named Lorenzo Ghiberti. After first designing the North Doors, Ghiberti turned his attention into sculpting ten large-relief bronze panels, depicting stories from the Old Testament. These fantastic gilded doors have been dubbed the "Gates of Paradise."
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| Beautiful sculptures above the door |
Our guide led us to these famous bronze doors and I have to say they were breathtaking. The details in each panel were truly incredible.
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| More amazing artwork on the Baptistry exterior |
We walked around the outside of the Baptistry, taking in all the lovely artwork decorating its exterior. Unfortunately, we couldn't go inside as the place was closed for the day. ( I can't remember why.)
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| Another ornate Baptistry door |
Both the Duomo and Baptistry buildings were quite spectacular. I gaped at both for quite a long time, capturing photo after photo. Because we were so close to the Duomo, it was hard to fit the entire structure into my camera lens. So I zoomed in closer and caught some of the ornate details, especially on the cathedral's exterior.
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| Late afternoon sun on the Duomo |
After all this I had to agree it was worth battling the crowds to see these magnificent, iconic buildings. Our walk through Florence now winding down, the local guide led us back to reunite with the other half of our tour group. It was time to head to our restaurant for dinner.
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| A group of Hare Krishnas walked by |
As we walked away from the square adjacent to the Baptistry, a group of Hare Krishnas danced by, playing loud music and singing. It was actually kind of amusing, this fringe religious group doing their thing next the main Catholic cathedral in Florence.
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| Medici family church |
On our way to the restaurant our main tour guide (MG) led the group on a convoluted, winding route through Florence that didn't make much sense. We passed a dull, brick building that was noted as the church of the Medici family, a very powerful and important political dynasty in 15th century Florence. (More on the Medicis in the next post.) MG just had to take us to her most favorite leather shop and introduce us to the owner, apparently a close friend. MG told us all to shop there, and then the owner mentioned he wouldn't be open the next day, which was Sunday. There wasn't time to shop now since we had dinner reservations soon. So much for that!
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| Delicious gnocchi for dinner |
I was getting really hungry, so it was a relief to finally reach our restaurant for the evening. After taking seats at long tables, our group was first served some appetizers, and of course lots of wine. MG forgot again that Kim couldn't drink wine and had to be reminded to bring her an alternate beverage.
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| We also had Florentine steak - Lotti was not happy |
The second course was amazing - we were served the best gnocchi I've ever had. The little potato pastas were tender, soft, and covered in the most delicious cheese sauce. They practically melted in my mouth!
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| Pistachio lava cake for dessert! |
The same couldn't be said for the third course. We were told Florence was famous for its steaks, so we each were served a piece of this well-known beef. I was not impressed - my steak was extremely rare (which I was told is how they serve them.) The steak was so rare it looked raw - it was bloody and not very warm. And it was tough - I had an extremely difficult time trying to cut a piece. After finally hacking off a bite-sized chunk, I chewed it for a long time, trying to break the meat down enough so it could be swallowed. Lotti of course was so upset I was eating beef, that she turned her back on my plate.
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| After dinner limoncello shot |
However, all was forgiven when dessert and an after dinner limoncello shot was served. Salute!
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| Salute! |
Aside from the massive holiday crowds, I'd enjoyed my whirlwind afternoon tour of Florence highlights. Tomorrow we were scheduled to visit two of Florence's world-renowned art museums, the Uffizi Gallery and the Academia. I couldn't wait!
Get ready for lots of art - coming in my next post.
A long day, hordes of people, but what a wonderful city to explore.
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