Eagle Creek, Post-Fire

Back in September 2017, I watched helplessly as a monster wildfire consumed the Oregon side of my beloved Columbia River Gorge.  The fire, ignited by a teenager playing with fireworks, started on the Eagle Creek Trail, my most favorite trail in the Gorge (and possibly of all time).

(You can read more about the wildfire in this Wikipedia link.)

The trailhead is still the same!

Three months later, winter rains finally doused the fire, but a large portion of the Gorge's forests had been torched.   Most of the burn area remained off-limits for a year.  Slowly, hiking trails and roads reopened.  But the Eagle Creek Trail, where it had all started, sustained the most damage and remained closed for 3 1/2 years.  It opened briefly in January 2021, only to be shuttered 2 weeks later due to landslides brought on by a strong winter storm.  The trail remained closed until mid-July 2021, when it was finally cleared of debris and deemed safe for hikers.

The damage quickly becomes apparent at the first bridge

Of course, once word got out among the hiking community the Eagle Creek Trail was heavily trafficked.  Although I too was anxious to revisit the trail and see the fire damage for myself, I decided to wait for a rainy midweek day in November, when I knew there'd be far less people.

Scorched hillside

The other reason for waiting until November - fall color!  From past experience I knew that the Gorge usually reached peak autumn hues in early November.  After four long years, I suspected enough vegetation had since regrown in the Eagle Creek area to produce changing leaves once again.

Eagle Creek

So in early November, I picked a Tuesday that, although cloudy, wasn't too rainy and invited my friend Debbie to join me.

Debbie walks through a carpet of leaves

Hoping to score an up-close spot, we were delighted to find only a half dozen vehicles in the parking area.  After the necessary pre-hike potty break, and changing into boots and jackets, Debbie and I were off!

Bigleaf maple leaves

The trailhead itself looked the same, but mere steps beyond that the fire damage became brutally apparent.  At the first bridge beside Eagle Creek, we gaped at the hillsides that were covered with charred tree trunks.  Thankfully, some yellow-leaved bushes had grown amongst the blackened trees adding a dash of color to an otherwise bleak scene.

Colorful corridor

Speaking of fall color, it was definitely peaking!  Debbie and I passed through a spot on the trail surrounded by Bigleaf maples and other assorted colorful bushes.  Golden leaves carpeted our trail.  It almost felt as if we were walking through a big, yellow tunnel.

Small cascade trickles down a cliff face

After an extremely dry spring and summer, this fall season seemed to be making up for lost precip.  We'd had quite a few rainy days in late October and, as a result, waterfalls were gushing from everywhere.  We passed by one tiny cascade dripping above the trail, trickling down the side of an adjacent basalt cliff.

The trail was blasted into the cliff face

One thing about this trail that I was happy to see hadn't changed - the narrow ledges blasted into the cliff face.  These walkways seemed to have survived the firestorm and subsequent landslides in fine shape.

I was happy to see that this unique trail segment had survived the fire

Constructed in the 1910s, these narrow trails were considered an engineering marvel.  In areas with high exposure, cable handrails were added, providing a little security to hikers afraid of heights.  Despite the inferno passing through here, I was happy to discover the cables still in place and in apparent good shape.

Looking deep into the canyon

By now we'd climbed high above Eagle Creek, it's waters a blue ribbon far, far below.  The canyon narrowed, giving glimpses to partially forested areas ahead.  The fire here burned in a "mosaic" pattern, sparing some trees while completely incinerating others.  It was good to see a little bit of green amidst so many bare black and gray trunks.

Another mossy cliff

Debbie and I passed by another cliffy area, the rock faces covered with ferns and green moss.  The forest opened up to showcase some nice views of the canyon.

Colorful bushes brighten an otherwise bleak burn area

At about 2 miles in, we passed the side trail down to the base of Punchbowl Falls.  Pre-fire, this trail had taken hikers to a pleasant creekside area with a lovely rocky bank boasting great views of the falls.  But I had heard that the fire had denuded the adjacent canyon slopes so badly there was no longer anything holding the soil in place.  Winter rains caused massive landslides, raining large boulders into the canyon and wiping out the nice beach area.  Access to the base of Punchbowl Falls was now very difficult.

Punchbowl falls

Knowing there was nothing to see down below, Debbie and I skipped the side path to Punchbowl Falls. A bit further down the trail was another viewpoint where hikers could see the cascade from above.  This would have to do for now.  I'd hoped the fire had cleared the vegetation from the upper viewpoint, as pre-fire it was beginning to get overgrown.  But four years of regrowth had started to obscure the falls once again.  Blackened trees directly above the splash pool showed how close the flames had gotten to the waterfall.

Beyond Punch Bowl Falls, there was much devastation 

Beyond Punchbowl Falls, the devastation encompassed more of the forest.  Large swaths of ghostly gray trees covered an adjacent slope.  No mosaic burn here, the entire hillside had been consumed by the flames.

Gray, ghostly trees

However, the blackened trunks and gray branches made interesting patterns to photograph.

This silver tree was photogenic

It was sobering, but also fascinating to see the scale of destruction.

Small creek trickles through the burn zone

A small creek tumbled down one side of the ghostly forest.   The creek's banks were lined with green vegetation, which made it stand out from the stark surroundings.

More waterway scenes

Debbie and I continued another mile and a half further from Punchbowl Falls, catching occasional glimpses of Eagle Creek.

The famous cable handrails appear to have survived!

Past more cliff areas with cable handrails.

Another view of the rapids

We traversed two side creeks, one a simple rock-hop, the other requiring a bit more skill to cross (although I just waded through, since my boots were waterproof).  The trail was clear of downed trees until just after we made our second creek crossing.  There on the other side, a large tree had fallen directly into our path forcing Debbie and I to duck and scramble over several branches.  Although it took a bit of time, we were able to successfully navigate this obstacle.

Despite all the charred trees, the scenery was still fantastic

The trail came out of the forest to another clifftop clearing.  There, gushing from the opposite bank was a lovely waterfall.  Named Loowit Falls, this two-tiered beauty was flowing mightily.

Loowit Falls

Very steep dropoffs near Loowit Falls

Past Loowit Falls, the trail again narrowed against a rocky cliff.  Traversing by, I hugged the cliff wall as close as possible - it was a long ways down to the creek.

Debbie approaching High Bridge

Up ahead we could see a deep slot-like gorge.  Our trail crossed this gorge via a bridge appropriately named as "High Bridge."

Crossing High Bridge

Upon High Bridge, one could see Eagle Creek, very far below.  One could also look up the narrow walls on one side that formed the deep gorge.  To the other side of the bridge was a sad sight.  The forest here had been totally burned.  Blackened trunks were all that was left of a once beautiful area. 

The woods above High Bridge were pretty well torched

Although the Eagle Creek Trail continued another 2.7 miles from here to spectacular Tunnel Falls, Debbie and I agreed High Bridge was as far as we'd go for today.  It would make a very respectable 8 mile trek.  I'd save Tunnel Falls for another day.

Heading back through the green cliff section

So Debbie and I retraced our steps back past Loowit Falls and the green cliff section.  Since I'd taken copious photos all morning, I didn't feel the need for many photo breaks on the way back, and our return trip was much faster.

Eagle Creek, far below the trail

This image shows how far the trail got above Eagle Creek.  It's a long ways to the water!

Debbie taking in the lovely fall colors

At the final cliff section, the fall colors were especially vibrant and plentiful.  Debbie and I took a short break to admire the beauty.

Lots of bright yellows and oranges!

The trees down below practically exploded in yellows and oranges.  A fine way to end our exploration of this wonderful trail.  Despite the fire damage, the Eagle Creek Trail was still amazing as ever.

Back through the last cliff section

After being closed for so long, it was wonderful to finally hike my favorite trail again post-2017 fire.  It was like revisiting an old friend!  A huge thanks to the Forest Service and all the volunteers who labored for years repairing the Eagle Creek Trail from fire and landslide damage, getting it reopened to the public once again.

Eagle Creek with the Masses

I don't know what I was thinking.......Maybe I was jonesing for a Gorge waterfall fix.....maybe I wanted to see the wildflowers.....maybe I had vacation hangover.  Whatever the reason, I decided to hike the Eagle Creek Trail one beautiful Saturday in mid-May.

Cable and flowers

What's the big deal, you ask?  Only that this spectacular, uber-green, waterfall-filled trail is by far the Columbia River Gorge's most popular.  If you want to avoid the masses (which I normally do) this is not the place to go on a sunny weekend.

Eagle Creek, far below the trail

But the weather was supposed to be gorgeous, and throwing caution to the wind, I decided Eagle Creek Trail would be my hike of choice. 

All was going well, I got to the trailhead early enough to snag a good parking spot, and the weather was still foggy and cool just the way I like it.  Then I realized I'd forgotten my custom orthotics.  Doh! 

What to do now?  I wasn't about to turn around and drive the 45 minutes back home.  I'd hiked a short distance without orthotics once before but planned to travel 12 miles today.  Hmmmmm.....I was already here and it was a beautiful day.  My feet might get a little sore, but what's the worst that could happen?

Shelf blasted into the rock

After making a couple of quick boot adjustments, I shouldered my backpack and was off.  The trail follows lovely Eagle Creek for a short distance before climbing high above its gurgling waters.  Parts of the path hug steep cliffs, created by blasting a shelf into the rock itself.

Field of purple

I was pleased to discover the wildflowers out in force!  These gorgeous purple-hued flowers carpeted the side of a steep slope.  (I later learned they were called Blue-eyed Mary.)

Blue-eyed Mary

Last winter's cold temperatures and near-record rainfall wreaked havoc on Gorge trails, and Eagle Creek was not spared.  I'd read on hiking forums about landslides and downed trees littering the area.  But by late spring, volunteer trail crews had patched things up quite nicely and the tread looked great (huge thank yous!)

RIP, Metlako viewpoint

But not everything could be fixed.  With great sadness, I passed by the remains of the Metlako Falls viewpoint, which collapsed and slid into the creek during one of last winter's fierce storms.  Before it's demise, hikers could perch on a narrow overhang that offered glimpses of this lovely cascade.  (See this post, 6th photo, for an image of the falls)  Now the overlook is completely gone, and its remaining steep bank dangerously unstable.  I don't think hikers will be able to view this waterfall for a very long time now, if ever.

(Oh and I noticed, to my amusement, that the Forest Service misspelled "Metlako" on the sign......)

Ferns were out in force!

But on a happier note, farther down the trail I was pleased to see the damaged bridge over Tish Creek had finally been replaced with a shiny new span.  (See this post for a photo of the mangled one)

New bridge over Tish Creek

Ferns and moss decorated the adjacent cliffs, creating a tunnel of bright greenery.

Drippy cliff face

Onward I trekked, past tall, drippy cliffs with cable handrails to assist timid hikers.

More cable rails

Spring snowmelt combined with recent rainfall had swelled Eagle Creek and it's rushing rapids far below were mesmerizing to watch.

Eagle Creek rapids

Loowit Falls was gushing mightily from the far canyon wall.  A patch of purple larkspur flowers added to the lovely scene.

Loowit Falls

The past few times I've hiked Eagle Creek Trail, my turnaround point has been at High Bridge, about 3 1/2 miles in.  But the trail continues much further.  At six miles hikers encounter spectacular Tunnel Falls, so named because the trail ducks behind it in a short tunnel.  I'd never continued past this point, but had heard there was one more great waterfall a short distance beyond Tunnel Falls.  Today's goal was to finally reach this last cascade.

Larkspur

The last 2 1/2 miles beyond Loowit Falls seemed to take forever.  By now my feet, used to being supported by orthotics, were beginning to protest.  But I trudged onward, and finally, hearing the roar of rushing water ahead, knew I was almost there.

Base of Tunnel Falls

What a sight for sore eyes!  It had been many years since I'd hiked all the way to Tunnel Falls.  The cascade was still as spectacular as I'd remembered.
 

And the tunnel behind it was cool to walk through.  This time I even thought to take a video.


 

Tunnel Falls, in her full glory

One of the benefits of starting early is a lot less people on the trail.  But by the time I finally reached Tunnel Falls, the crowd had caught up to me.  Quite a few hikers lingered on the adjacent narrow trail and it took some jockeying to pass by. 

The "vertigo mile"

After a few obligatory photos (okay, more than a few), I located a rare trailside flat spot.  Unoccupied for the moment, I quick claimed it for myself.  Time for a well-earned break!  I enjoyed my lunch, and then fixed a few hot spots on my poor feet (I hadn't used moleskin for many years, but luckily still had a few pieces in my first aid kit!)

Rainbow above Twister Falls

Belly full, and feet protected, it was time to find that final mystery waterfall!  Returning to the trail, I followed it onward.  The path narrowed to a skinny tread perched high above a near-vertical cliff face.  As treacherous as it looked, I'm sure it turned back many hikers with a fear of heights.  (I'd heard this section was nicknamed the "vertigo mile.")

Twister Falls

And then rounding a corner, I came face to face with the unnamed cascade.  Two thick streams of water tumbled down a basalt cliff face, twisting together as they fell.  Although lacking an official name, many hiker forums referred to this waterfall as "Twister Falls."  It was an astounding sight - made even better by the presence of a colorful rainbow above the top.

Back to Tunnel Falls

Right then and there Twister Falls became my most favorite waterfall on the Eagle Creek Trail.  And it was only a quarter mile further down the trail from Tunnel Falls.  Why had I waited so long to finally see it? 

Well past noon, people were now parading down the trail in a steady stream.  Returning to Tunnel Falls, I had to maneuver around several large groups as I again navigated the skinny path through the tunnel.  I took another video to show you how precarious it was.

Hikers perched on a narrow ledge

Heading back I encountered tons of hikers.  Due to its close proximity to a large urban area, many of the trail's visitors were not well versed in outdoor etiquette.  I passed a least three people who were smoking (!!) and three or four others who had bluetooth speakers in their backpacks, blaring out loud music (my personal pet peeve).  I saw evidence of wildflowers that had been picked and left beside the trail, and noticed quite a few toilet paper "blooms" under the bushes. 

Oregon Grape

But the act that irritated me the most was coming upon two young boys who were tearing chunks of moss from the forest floor and flinging them into the creek.  Their parents sitting on the creek bank watched the entire thing, and said nothing.  I was sorely tempted to confront the boys and their parents, but being a woman hiking by myself I was a bit concerned about my safety (you never know how people will react).  So I bit my tongue and hurried away.  (Readers, I ask, what would you have done?)

Back through the canyon

By the time I reached High Bridge again, my feet were making loud protests.  Without the orthotics, they were rubbing in places that usually never got sore.  Only a few more miles to go.....I put my head down, tried to ignore the aches, and decided to get it over with as fast as possible.

The closer I got to the trailhead, the larger the crowds.  I even passed a couple of rangers assisting a young man who appeared to be ill.  (I considered telling them about the moss-throwing kids, but they looked too busy). 

Narrow chasm below High Bridge

Finally - hallelujah! - the final bridge and trailhead came into view.  I located my car in a now-packed parking area and gratefully pulled off my boots.  Although red and sore, my feet had only one small blister to show for this nearly 13 mile trek.

And although the Eagle Creek Trail was green and stunning as usual, I think I've learned my lesson.  Next time I'll think twice about tackling this trail on a sunny spring weekend.