On the Shores of Crater Lake

Like many folks, this year's COVID pandemic has forced hubby and I to vacation closer to home.  For us that meant taking more in-state camping trips.  In mid-August I booked a site at southern Oregon's Diamond Lake.  Our favorite camping spot when the kids were young, it had been years since we'd spent time here.

 

First overlook

Although Diamond Lake itself is a worthy destination, one of the great things about staying here is it's close proximity to Crater Lake.  Oregon's lone National Park, this ultra-blue mountain lake is a photographer's dream.  The deepest lake in the US (1,943 feet), it's deep blue color is due to the extensive depth and purity of the waters.  Fed only by rain and snow, scientists consider Crater Lake to be the cleanest and clearest large body of water in the world.

Beginning the hike down

 

Created from a great eruption of Mount Mazama around 5700 BC, this lake formed in the large caldera that remained after the mountain's explosion.  Scientists believe this eruption deposited ash as far east as the NW corner of what is now Yellowstone National Park, as far south as central Nevada, and as far north as southern British Columbia.  This destructive event is thought to have created 150 times more ash than the May 18, 1980 eruption of nearby Mt St Helens.

Fabulous lake views

 

One of my brothers lives in nearby Central Oregon, and we invited him to join us for the weekend.  And outdoor enthusiast like my hubby and I, it didn't take any convincing.  After spending the first day fishing (the guys) and walking around Diamond Lake snapping photos (me) I suggested a visit to the more famous lake for the following day.

 

The lake's water changed color near the shore

The 30-mile Rim Drive that encircles Crater Lake is a worthy trip.  Open only in the summer, this road provides visitors magnificent views of this natural wonder.  Numerous auto pull-outs, scenic viewpoints, and trailheads enable visitors to enjoy this park's impressive scenery.  But access to the lakeshore itself is only allowed at one point - via the Cleetwood Cove Trail.

 

Almost there!

Although I've visited Crater Lake numerous times in the 30-plus years I've lived in Oregon, I'd never hiked this trail to the water's surface.  So I suggested to the guys that we check it out.

 

Here I am at the shoreline of Crater Lake

Hot weather was predicted that day, so we got an early start.  That meant the first few viewpoints we stopped at were uncrowded, which in this time of COVID was just fine.  After a short drive down the rim road, we came to the Cleetwood Cove Trailhead's huge parking area.  Again, our early arrival guaranteed our pick of parking spots.  I grabbed my camera stuff and followed hubby and brother across the road to the trail.

I was surprised to see people swimming in the lake

The Cleetwood Cove trail isn't very long - only 1.1 miles to the lakeshore.  But it is steep, dropping 700 feet in elevation as it switchbacks down the crater's rim.  For this reason the park rates this trail as strenuous.  As we started down the trail, we were met by intermittent groups of people huffing and puffing their way back up.

Lots of people gathered at the shore

 

Oh the were the views stellar!  As I descended I couldn't help stopping frequently to capture the scenery.  It was a new and different perspective of the lake and I wanted to get as many images as I could.  Of course, the guys kept walking and I began to lag far behind.

 

Loved the clear waters

 

Probably the most exciting part of this short hike was seeing the lake's surface getting closer and closer the lower I traveled.  Soon I was able to notice the difference in water color - it was an aqua shade in the shallow areas nearest the shore.  And of course the lake's crystal-clear waters meant I could see all the details on the rocky bottom.

 

Last look before climbing back up

 

Finally I reached the trail's bottom and the lakeshore.  It was really interesting to see Crater Lake at water level, with the rim rising above, instead of viewing it from the top of the rim.  I found my hubby and brother near the boat dock, waiting patiently for me.  A couple of men were casting fishing poles into the water, but I didn't see any fish caught.  I was amazed to learn there were fish in this lake.  Six species of fish were introduced into Crater Lake between 1888 and 1941, but only Rainbow trout and Kokanee salmon have survived.

View (rest) break on the way up

The most unexpected surprise was seeing people swimming in Crater Lake.  As I hiked downhill many of the folks trekking back up were wearing swimsuits and carrying towels.  When I finally reached the shore, I was shocked by the large number of people already splashing around in the water.  Later, checking the park literature, I discovered that, yes swimming, fishing and wading are indeed allowed.  However, to keep the lake water pure, scuba equipment, inflatable items, boats, waders and life jackets are not allowed.  (I don't understand the logic of allowing people in the water but not items - I would think all those bodies wouldn't be good for the water's purity either.)  It was interesting to see so many people swimming despite the cold water.  In summer, the lake's surface temperature averages only 57 degrees.  Even though it was a hot day, I wasn't interested in dipping my feet in the lake's chilly waters.

At this overlook I could almost fit the entire lake in my frame!

 

And speaking of boat dock, the National Park Service normally offers boat tours of Crater Lake during summer months.  However, just like everything else, COVID cancelled all boat tours for the 2020 season.

Phantom Ship

After spending a half hour wandering around the short path at the water's edge, taking photos, and watching the crazy swimmers, we decided it was time to head back.  By now more and more people had arrived and the lakeshore starting to get crowded.

What goes down must come up, and the hike back to the parking lot was brutal.  By now temps had risen significantly and it was hot!  Hiking uphill in the heat was not any fun.  My hubby, the mountain goat, marched up the trail like it was no problem.  However, my brother and I slogged uphill at a much slower rate.  We took advantage of a bench near the halfway mark for a quick breather.

 

Wizard Island from Discovery Point

 

Back at hubby's truck, we discovered the huge parking lot had now entirely filled in.  As a matter of fact, a vehicle hovered nearby waiting to snatch our parking spot the minute we left.

 

Fireweed at Diamond Lake

We finished driving the entire Rim Loop road, stopping at the scenic viewpoints that looked interesting.  By now it was midday, and the park was full of visitors.  There were lots of vehicles with out-of-state license plates - and not just from the states adjacent to Oregon. (I even saw a car from Florida!)  The virus wasn't stopping people from traveling, that's for sure.  Our final stop, Discovery Point, was swarming with so many people that I snapped a few quick images and we got the heck out of there!  Time to head back to our campsite at Diamond Lake and chill in the shade.

 

Dramatic storm clouds over Diamond Lake

 

That evening a huge thundercloud drifted by, grumbled a bit, but didn't drop any precip.  But it did make for an amazing sunset over Diamond Lake, which I was fortunate to capture.

Fabulous sunset

A wonderful weekend exploring a favorite National Park, catching up with my brother, and relaxing at a beautiful lakeside campsite.

 

Crater Lake's Winter Wonderland

My hubby stared at our route ahead.  The snowy slope tilted at a 45 degree angle.  Midday sun had baked its icy crust into a soft, unstable surface.  Only one set of tracks continued across the steep traverse.

"I don't like the looks of this" he warned.  "One false move, and we'll end up sliding into the trees below." 

Crater Lake, sparkling blue in the sunshine

Three years ago, my hubby and I made a February trip to Crater Lake, Oregon's lone National Park.  We had a fabulous time snowshoeing around it's rim (read about our adventures here and also here).  This scenic blue lake covered in snowy white so captivated me, I'd been plotting a winter return ever since.

In early March of this year I finally got my wish.

The snow is crazy deep this year!

Crater Lake is a unique place.  This natural wonder was created over seven thousand years ago when a violet eruption caused the collapse of Mt. Mazama, a huge volcano.  Over time falling rain and melting snow collected in the hollowed-out caldera, forming a deep, clear lake.  A near perfect circular shape, Crater Lake's waters boast an alarmingly bright blue hue.  Measuring 1,949 feet it's the deepest lake in the US, and quite possibly the most pristine body of water on earth.

Starting out on the Rim Trail

Despite receiving an enormous amount of snow annually (a whopping 43 feet on average!), Crater Lake National Park manages to stay open during the winter months.  Access, however, is not easy. Rim Road, the only auto route circling the lake, isn't plowed so viewpoints beyond Rim Village can only be reached using skis or snowshoes.  The North Entrance is closed, forcing many visitors to travel out of direction to reach the West or South Entrances.  And heavy snowfall often closes the drive between Park Headquarters and the lake's rim.

See the sign?

The other issue with visiting in winter - frequent stormy weather.  Getting a clear day during this season is a crapshoot.  Snowstorms and fog frequently hide the lake from view (rangers estimate it's only visible 50% of the time).  On our last visit, we'd lucked out with a spectacular clear-sky weekend.  I hoped for the same kind of weather this time around.

Wizard Island

As I've mentioned before, this winter was an especially snowy one for the Cascade Mountains.  One storm after another pounded Crater Lake with monster dumps, pushing the snowpack well above average.  The week before our planned trip an especially large storm dropped several feet of snow in the southern Cascades, followed by two days of soaking rain.  This large amount of snow closed the road to Rim Village and all week the park's website ominously warned it might not be cleared by the weekend.

Heading across a snowy plain

But we'd made our plans, and hubby and I were still going - closed roads or not!  As we made our way south from Portland I took advantage of sporadic cell service to check road conditions on the park's website.  Around noon I got the news I was hoping to hear - the road to Rim Village had been reopened!  Yahoo!

Gigantic snow drifts!

After a long 5-hour drive over weather-beaten mountain roads, our trusty Subaru navigated the final switchbacks to Crater Lake's Rim Village.  We were met with howling winds and cloudy skies.  Occasional bursts of ice pellets pelted our faces as we climbed up a tall snowy berm ringing the parking area, to the lake overlook.  My hubby and I were able to get a few quick glimpses of Crater Lake's surface before thick fog moved in and obscured everything.

Recent rain left deep grooves in the snow

Disappointed, we took shelter in the visitor center, moping about the unfortunate weather.  However, a friendly worker in the gift shop assured us that tomorrow's forecast promised sunshine.  Perfect!  That was the day we'd planned a snowshoeing trip along the Rim Road.

Looking ahead to the Watchman - our destination

As promised, the next morning dawned clear and sunny.  Again, we piloted our car back up the winding road towards Crater Lake's rim, marveling at the tall snowbanks lining the highway.  So much snow had fallen, the banks were over 20 feet tall in some places.  The road resembled a slot canyon snaking through this thick snowpack.

Frosty trees

In winter months, the unplowed road around the crater's rim reverts to a trail for skiers and snowshoers.  Although a few folks brave the entire 31-mile route, most visitors only venture 2-3 miles down the West Rim Drive before turning back.  On our last visit, my hubby and I made it nearly four miles in, almost to the Watchman Overlook.  Today's goal was to finish what we'd started three years ago and finally reach the Watchman.

Spectacular viewpoint

After gathering all our gear, we again climbed up the steep snowbank to the lake's viewpoint.  Under clear skies, Crater Lake sparkled an unreal shade of blue.  Our snowshoe departure was delayed a good ten minutes due to copious photo-taking (I won't say by who!).

Wizard Island is front and center

My hubby finally managed to tear me and my camera away from the spectacular sights, and begin our day's journey.  We'd started fairly early, and saw only a couple of skiers as we left the Rim Village buildings.  Despite the sunshine, temps hovered around freezing, creating an icy crust on the snow's surface.  But cleats on our snowshoe bottoms provided excellent traction, and we made good time traveling across the firm snow.

Another huge snow drift

After a little over a mile, we came upon Discovery Point, the first overlook.  This clearing provided an excellent view of Wizard Island.  Formed by later eruptions, this conical little island near the lake's west shore resembled a wizard's pointed hat.  My hubby and I inched as close as we dared to the edge to take in the marvelous panorama.  Overhanging snow cornices along the rim's walls forced us to stay a respectful distance back.

Lots of snowy features to navigate

Beyond Discovery Point, my hubby and I traversed over and around a series of gigantic snowdrifts.  Navigation was easy as other visitors had left a well-trampled path.  We passed by an area where recent heavy rains had worn deep grooves into the snow.  At one forest clearing I spotted a couple of tall peaks in the distance (I later learned one of them was Union Peak).  And around one bend in the path was a view ahead to Watchman Peak, our day's destination.

One of the crater's rim walls

Aside from a couple of skiers, my hubby and I were the only people on the outbound trail.  We began to meet groups of campers heading back towards Rim Village after spending the night outside.  Crater Lake National Park allows backcountry camping during the winter months, and it appeared to be popular.  Although I like to camp, sleeping in a cold tent on top of snow doesn't appeal to me.

The sun started to shine

On the previous day a ranger had warned of a treacherous section along the Rim Road.  Just beyond the Watchman, the road was cut into a steep cliff.  On plentiful snow years (such as this one) the roadcut filled up with snow creating a steep, avalanche-prone cross-slope to traverse.  Our previous trip three years ago had occurred during a lower than average snowfall year, and we'd had no trouble following the road.  But the ranger's advice became real when we met a young man snowshoeing back towards Rim Village.  Planning to travel around the entire lake, the man said he was stopped by an unstable, slippery slope just beyond the Watchman.  Not wanting to risk dying in a fall or avalanche, he'd turned around.

Fantastic reflections on the lake's surface

Despite the young man's warnings, my hubby and I decided to continue as far as we could.  We passed another fabulous overlook of Wizard Island (photo break time!)

People climbing the snowbanks onto a rooftop

Although we'd initially made good time, the intense sun's rays were quickly taking their toll on our icy trail.  The snow began to melt, and the softer the snow became, the harder it was to snowshoe upon, and the slower our progress.  I began to notice small slides and snow rollers traveling down some of the steeper side slopes.

Crater Lake's clear surface reflecting the sky

Finally a little over 3 miles in, we came upon a steep, hazardous-looking slope.  Soft snow was beginning to slide in a few places, and only one set of tracks (from the young male snowshoer we presumed) wandered across the incline.  My hubby wasn't at all comfortable crossing this area, pointing out if we slipped, it would be a long downhill slide to the forest below.

Another fabulous view

So the decision was made to end our day's journey here.  Before turning around, hubby and I took a seat in the snow, and enjoyed a leisurely lunch break.  The sun was warm, we inhaled some tasty treats, and the surrounding scenery was top notch.  Although we'd fallen short of our original day's goal, the consolation prize wasn't too bad!

Grab a seat on this cabin's roof!

Then it was time for the long trek back to Rim Village.  Soft, sticky snow slowed our pace, but I enjoyed passing by all the wonderful viewpoints a second time around.  The sun's powerful rays lit Crater Lake's surface, turning it a brilliant shade of blue.  High clouds reflected on the water's surface.  Truly magical!

Mt Thielsen in the distance

The closer we got to Rim Village, the more people we encountered on the trail.  With one mile to go, hubby and I felt as if we'd happened upon a crowded downtown sidewalk.  Even in the dead of winter, Crater Lake is a busy place on weekends.

A huge snowdrift at Crater Lake Lodge

Finally the visitor center and Rim Village buildings came into view.  My hubby, tired and sore from our adventure, opted to rest in the car.  But it was still early afternoon and such a lovely day, I didn't want to leave just yet.

The Lodge was shuttered for the winter

So I grabbed my camera and headed towards the shuttered Crater Lake Lodge.  Open during summer months, this historic structure was boarded up for the season.  I marveled at the huge snowdrifts that had formed behind the building.  They were nearly as high as the third floor windows!

Road plowed through the deep snow

Other buildings were also buried in snow.  One near Rim Village had drifts extending over the roof, and people were climbing up the rooftop and sliding down.  Another smaller cabin, also buried up to its eaves, had three people perched on the very peak of the roof, enjoying this amazing scenery from an unusual perspective.

Crater Lake Pano (click to see larger image)

A few fun facts about this unique national park: 

The lake is 4.5 to 6 miles wide. 

Although the average snowfall is 43 feet per year, the greatest cumulative snowfall ever recorded was 73 feet during the winter of 1932-33.  The greatest depth of snow on the ground at one time was 21 1/2 feet in 1983.  Normally the snow melts by August, but some years (probably this one) many drifts stick around until the snow returns again.

Due to its extreme depth, Crater Lake rarely freezes in winter.  Temperatures normally aren't cold enough to freeze this large amount of water.  The last complete surface freeze was in 1949, although 95% of the surface froze in 1985.


 

Wonderful day to be outside!

Another wonderful trip to my favorite National park!  I think winter is definitely the best time to visit Crater Lake.

Diamond Lake

Before I get started with today's post, I need some help from my blogging friends.  Has anyone had troubles following other blogs with Google Friend Connect?  This week, I tried to follow a few different blogs using GFC, and and it didn't work.  I kept getting error messages.  Has something changed I'm not aware of?  Is Google pulling the plug on GFC?  If any of you can help shed some light on this issue, please leave me a comment!  Thanks!!!

Pointy Mt. Thielson from the highway

Okay, on to today's story.  After spending two glorious days at Crater Lake, Roger and I packed up for the long drive back to Portland.  But on our way home, we decided to make a pit stop.  Just north and west of Crater Lake is another place that's very special to our family - Diamond Lake.  When our kids were little, we used to spend long summer weekends camping at this beautiful body of water.  Fishing was great, the campground was wonderful, and both our kids learned to ride their bikes on the paved path that circled it's shore.

Tall snowbanks line the road to Crater Lake

Since Diamond Lake is a short distance from Crater Lake, Roger and I decided we had to stop by.  So we bid Crater Lake goodbye, and hit the road that wound west and north around the park.  Diamond Lake was only about 20 miles away, and it didn't take long before Roger was pulling into the marina parking area.

Diamond Lake and Mt. Bailey

We'd never visited Diamond Lake in the winter.  The lake has a resort, with a lodge, cabins and a general store.  Although summer is it's busy season, the place stays open year-round.  When the snow flies, snowmobiling, ice fishing, and cat skiing are the main activities.  Diamond Lake is anchored by two lovely mountains on each side - Mt. Bailey to the west, and pointy-topped Mt. Thielson to the east.

Snow art on Diamond Lake's shore

When we lived in South Dakota, Roger was an avid ice fisherman.  Sadly, living in western Oregon, temps rarely get cold enough to freeze the lakes, so Roger hasn't ice fished in years.  But up here in the mountains, in winter the mercury drops well below freezing, and Diamond Lake regularly ices over.  Roger was very interested in checking out the ice fishing scene.

Swedish chef snowman?

It was cool to see the lake covered with snow and ice.  So different from our summer trips!  And even more fun - someone had built a couple of incredible snowmen on the lakeshore.  One looked to be a chef, and the other was built with a set of sturdy legs.  Pine cones and sticks were used to outline facial features.

Roger goes to check on the ice fishing

While Roger trekked out onto the ice to talk to the fishermen, I roamed along the shore snapping photos of these very creative snowmen.

Snowchef and Mt. Bailey

Roger returned with a report that the fishing was slow.  Still, I think my hubby was wishing he'd brought his pole and still owned an ice auger.  Maybe we'll have to return to Diamond Lake next winter.  I'll pass the time skiing up Mt. Bailey while Roger's busy enticing trout to bite.

Our winter trip to Southern Oregon was a rousing success. Whether it's to visit Crater or Diamond Lake, I have a feeling there's a return visit in store for next winter.


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