Three Corner Rock - Mud and Fog

I'm fortunate to have a flexible work schedule, with every other Friday off.  These Fridays are regarded as "bonus days" and thus I make sure they're used for fun activities (no wasting them doing chores!).  This past Friday found me with a day off but no plans.  Time for a hike!

My well-worn hiking bible

As some of you know, my long-time goal is to hike all 100 hikes in William L. Sullivan's "100 Hikes in Northwest Oregon" book.  I bought his first edition back in 1994.  Although the book has been updated several times since then, I still use the original first printing as my guide.  Friday I consulted with my "hiking bible" for another hike I'd yet to complete.  Three Corner Rock popped to the top the list. 

The muddy road

The trailhead for this hike is located on the Washington side of the Gorge, near the town of Stevenson.  After crossing the Columbia River on the Bridge of the Gods, and turning off on a road that passed Skamania Lodge, Sullivan's directions led me to a long, winding gravel forest service road.  The trailhead was near a junction, 9.5 miles down this road.  At first, all was fine.  My Subaru Outback loves gravel roads, and easily churned through the thick layer of aggregate a road grader had just spread.  The road kept gaining elevation, sometimes rather steeply, but my car climbed it no problem.  The scenery was beautiful, and I had the place to myself.  All was right with the world.

Nice forest path

Then, about six miles later, my car encountered what I thought was another deep gravel layer.  I soon discovered it was not.  Attempting to climb through the muck, my Subie lost traction and started to slide, fishtailing as it struggled to regain a grip on the road. This wasn't gravel - it was mud!   Thick, sticky mud. Uh-oh!

Thanks to all-wheel drive, I powered through the boggy mess.  Thinking maybe this was an isolated incident, I continued on.  But no, around the next corner another mudpit awaited.  And another slip-n-slide to get through it.  This pattern continued for several more miles.    

The avalanche lilies were out in force!

I began to get worried.  There I was, all by myself, on an extremely muddy road. Not seeing anyplace to turn around, I had to keep going. I told myself "whatever you do, don't get stuck." I didn't have cell reception, and it was a long walk out.

But my Subie performed amazingly.  It muscled through that mud no problem.  I kept driving further down the road, hitting more and more deep pockets of slime.  But my car cut through it like butter.  It started to feel like I was in a Subaru commercial!  (Subaru, if you're reading this, give me a call)

Pretty bleeding hearts

I hit the 9.5 mile mark, but the junction was nowhere to be found.  I had to keep driving, as there wasn't anywhere to turn around (and I didn't want to get stuck trying!).  I must've driven another half mile at least, getting more and more worried, when I finally came upon the much-anticipated fork in the road.  Just a short half mile down a secondary gravel road - and there at last was the trailhead.  Yahoo!

Rain-speckled trillium

My car was the only vehicle in a small parking pullout.  The sky was thick with clouds, the fog rolling in.  It looked like it could rain at any minute.  Thinking of the boggy road I'd just driven to get here (and would have to drive again on the return trip) I realized more precip would likely make it impassible.  If it started raining, I'd probably be stuck.

Still snow on the trail

To hike or not to hike?  I thought long and hard. With so much time and effort expended to reach this point, it would be a shame to turn around and leave right away.  And I really wanted to check this hike off my list.  I finally shouldered my pack and started up the trail, promising myself to turn around if any rain began to fall.

My pup in the flowers

The trail began in a lovely forest, dressed in its best spring green.  Although the climbing began right away, the path was well-graded and never became too steep.  The wildflowers burst out of the forest floor from the get-go - frilly white avalanche lilies, trilliums, and deep pink bleeding hearts.

Amazing flower patch

 

But thick fog descended almost immediately, and didn't let up the entire way.  After a mile, I passed a side trail to what looked to be a viewpoint.   Sadly, there was nothing to see but white.

Foggy steps lead to the top

 

About a half mile from the spur trail to the summit, Bear and I encountered our first snowbank.  It's been a cold spring here in the PNW, and the snow has been slow to melt.  As I climbed closer to the summit, the snow patches became more numerous.

Views?  What views?

Finally, I reached an old road that would lead me to Three Corner Rock's summit.  The ancient track was a mixture of snow and deep, slimy mud.  Arrghhh!  Not mud again!  And this time I didn't have my Subie.  But we were too close to stop now, so Bear and I waded through the muck.

Nothing to see here

The top of the mountain was in a thick fog bank.  Landmarks were hard to discern, and it was a little difficult to determine Three Corner Rock's summit location.  Luckily, I had my map and guidebook, otherwise I think I'd have missed the trail.  I found the trail hewn through the rocks, and then steps concreted into a boulder field that got me within 12 feet of the summit proper.

 

The sky began clearing as I hiked back down

Hooray!  Success!  I scrambled the final 12 vertical feet to the very top of Three Corner Rock.  But my victory was for naught.  Due to the fog, there were no views to be had that day.  No reward for my climb through the forest, snow and mud.  I was left admiring the foundation blocks from a long-gone fire lookout tower. 

Love this ultra-green forest

So after a quick lunch break, and a couple of self portraits in the fog, Bear and I headed back down.  Following the foggy road, I almost missed the return trail turnoff.  If it wasn't for Bear starting down this path as I marched on by, I would've missed it entirely.  My dog is better than a gps!

One final trillium

Traveling back through the forest, I noticed the sky beginning to brighten.  The fog started to lift.  By the time I reached the viewpoint again, there was actually a view to see.  And it was some great scenery.  The forest stretched out for miles, and I could now see the distant green hills.  Too bad things couldn't have cleared off while I was sitting on top of Three Corner Rock.

Another hike checked off in the book!

I made my way back to the trailhead, where I discovered another car - a Prius of all things - parked next to my Subie.  And I thought, if a Prius can make it down that nasty, muddy, road I should have no trouble getting back out.  And I didn't.  But, boy did the bottom of my car get coated with mud!  Back at home, I spent the better part of 30 minutes spraying it out of my wheel wells.  Then it took another half hour just to clean all the mud off the driveway!

No matter, it was a good adventure.  And another hike to check off in my book.  I'll have to make a return trip someday, to see the views I missed.  But I think next time I'll wait for drier weather.  :)

Nick Eaton Ridge

Spring weekends are meant for hiking.  And in the spring, there's no better place to go than the Columbia River Gorge.  Winter rains fuel brilliant green vegetation.  Flowers abound, in many hues, shapes and sizes.  Swollen creeks feed a multitude of waterfalls.  What's not to like?


Size matters!  Click on any photo to enjoy a larger version.

Bear provides the entertainment

My friend John is still in mountain climbing conditioning mode.  Last Saturday, he rallied the gang to hike up Nick Eaton Ridge.  John planned a route that traversed 14 miles, and 4000 feet of elevation gain.  Since I'm attempting to actually train for the Helvetia Half Marathon in June, and planned to run 9 miles the following day, I bailed out halfway and "only" hiked 8 miles and 3000 feet.

It's time for an uphill climb

But I joined John's group for the first part of the hike - a trudge up the extremely steep Nick Eaton Trail.  This killer path gains 1800 elevation in a mere two miles. 

But first John has to mess with his GPS

It didn't take long and everyone was puffing and sweating.  There's nothing like a steep climb with a heavy pack on your back to get that ol' heart rate going.

A chocolate tiger lily

The trail scrambled and switchbacked through viewless woods.  It wasn't without some rewards, though.  Terri spotted some rare chocolate tiger lilies hiding amongst the forest floor. 

Rest break with a view

After climbing endlessly our path came out in a clearing.  A rocky outcrop provided the perfect break spot. 

Incredible Gorge overlook

The views were worth that monstrous climb.  The western end of the Gorge spread out before us, with the Columbia River shining far below.

 

The Columbia River is way down there!

My hiking partners and I spent a pleasant 20 minutes taking in the views.   There was also some time spent eating and photographing flowers.

Mt. Adams makes an appearance

Then we shouldered our packs for the final climb to the top of Nick Eaton Ridge. 

 

Lots of trilliums

At the Deadwood Trail turnoff, I bid my friends goodbye.  John and company continued further up the ridge, and I took the downhill path to Deadwood Camp.

And bunches of these "unidentified purple flowers"

The path to Deadwood camp meandered through a dense forest full of blooming flowers.  I spotted trilliums, and tons of cute little purple flowers I couldn't identify.  They became known as "UPF" short for "unidentified purple flowers."

A trillium past its prime

One clearing provided a nice panorama of the northern Gorge, with Mt. Adams rising front and center.  Otherwise, the thick forest canopy prevented any views.

 

Alternative view of some fairy slippers

Bear and I reached the junction with the Gorton Creek Trail.  This well-graded path provides an easier descent than the Nick Eaton Trail. 

Lots of big trees lining the trail

It winds through a wonderful forest of large Douglas firs.

My pup is pooping out

Of course the flowers were out along this trail too.  I spotted a big patch of fairy slippers (also known as calypso orchids) and attempted to photograph them with my little point-n-shoot camera.  It wasn't the best attempt.  I need to start dragging out my "big girl" camera on these hikes!

Springtime green covers the Gorge cliffs

Bear and I ended our trek with a nice view of these cliffs as we headed towards the car.  The hillsides are covered with bright new vegetation.  Everything is so green, it seems to glow.  Spring has sprung, and it is all so beautiful.

Another great day in the Gorge!

Nesmith Point

Last weekend I had the most wonderful two days.  Saturday, my hiking buddy John invited me to join his group for a hike in the Gorge.  I haven't hiked with John in like forever, so the answer was a resounding YES.

Our day's destination was Nesmith Point - a steep trek up the Oregon side of the Columbia River Gorge.  John's training to climb some mountains later this spring, and needed a good conditioning hike.  I haven't been up to Nesmith in many years.  All I remembered was a long, boring slog up a mostly viewless trail.

Hail, hail the gang's all here!

The opportunity for great company, not the trail itself, was my motivation for joining up.  John always gathers the most fun, interesting people for his hikes.  Today's group was no exception.  Along with my ski friends Young, John (another John), and Katie, were his climbing pals Terri, Debbie, and Ted.   A couple of these folks I hadn't seen for over a year.  It was great to reconnect.

Bear is ready to roll

John's hiking club also had a four-legged member.  After watching me pack up and leave for ski trips all winter, Bear was happy to finally be included.  He's missed romping on the trails, and took full advantage of this opportunity, running back and forth making sure his "herd" stayed together.  (I think he traveled at least double the distance we humans covered).

Gorge view in between the trees

The trail began climbing almost immediately.  Our group puffed up switchbacks, through a brilliant green forest bursting with new leaves.  Although cloudy, the weather was warm and humid.  It didn't take long for everyone to shed clothing down to their base layers.

Looking ahead to our destination

The majority of the group was on a mission - get to the top as quickly as possible.  They took off at a gallop.  But Young and I, the photographers of the bunch, hung back.  We took our sweet time climbing up the trail, capturing scenery along the way.

The trilliums were blooming!

Young and I discovered small patches of early wildflowers in the forest.  The trilliums were in full bloom mode.  Oodles of huge blossoms decorated the lower portions of the trail.  I've never seen trilliums so big!

We hit snow around 3000 feet elevation

At the top of the first ridge, the air began to feel noticeably cooler.   After pulling a layer back on, the group came across a snowfield.  No wonder the temps had dropped - it was still cold enough to keep snow intact.  We'd also gained quite a bit of elevation, climbing almost 3000 feet to the snowline.

Bear on the snowy trail

Everyone picked their way across the snow-covered trail.  The snow was firm enough to keep us on top, but the going was slippery.  I was glad for my trekking poles. 

Making our way through the snow-covered forest

The snowy trail seemed to go on forever.  I was getting tired of slipping and sliding, and longed for a return to the dirt trail.  I remarked to Young "We should've brought our skis!"

Foggy trail junction

But finally we climbed out of the snow onto a junction with an ancient road.  The forest here was in a fog bank, and the trees towered over us like eerie ghosts.

Old moss-covered sign

The mossy trail sign showed just how far we'd come.

Foggy road to the top

An easy trek along a old roadbed led us to our final destination.

A small peep of the Columbia River from Nesmith Point

Nesmith Point!  Today's low clouds and fog didn't make for much of view.  However, there was tiny glimpses of the Columbia River and Washington side of the Gorge peeping out between cloudbreaks.  After the monstrous climb, I appreciated any small reward I could get.

Lunchtime at the top

All the members of John's hiking group settled themselves amongst Nesmith Point's tiny summit to enjoy a hearty lunch.  Bear wandered around, giving everyone his most mournful look, hoping to score some sympathy food.  Katie gave him the most food and attention, so she became Bear's new best friend.  (On hikes Bear never goes hungry.  Lest you worry, I always bring a baggie of dog food and some treats for my pup.  And he usually ends up with a large portion of my sandwich).

John, Debbie, and Ted

The temps on top were chilly, and everyone bundled up, putting back on the layers we'd stripped off during the climb.  Many of us had also packed up thermoses of hot tea, which tastes great on a damp, cool spring day.

The whole group (minus Debbie who took the photo)

Before heading back out, I insisted we all pose for a couple of group photos.  Debbie was nice enough to man my camera, which allowed me (and Bear) to be included in a shot.

We discovered a newt in the snow

After such a long, hard climb, the first mile of downhill was a welcome treat.  We hit the snow again, and the march over the slippery white stuff was much easier than anticipated.  Towards the end of the snowpack, John discovered a little newt lying in the snow.  An unusual place to find animal life, we hoped it wasn't frozen.

John rescuing the newt

The newt appeared to still be alive.  After shooing Bear away, and getting a couple of photographs of the little guy, John rescued our amphibian friend from his chilly perch.  We left him in a snow-free patch of the forest floor to hopefully warm up and scurry to a lower, more temperate elevation.

Young and Bear on the trail

Everyone thinks climbing is the difficult part of hiking.  But the descent can be just as grueling.  Quads, calves, toes, feet and knees all take a beating from the constant downhill pounding.  About halfway down, with our legs growing weary, Young exclaimed "Boy, I wish we had our skis.  Skiing downhill is so much easier!"

Mossy trailhead water tank

As we descended in elevation, the air became warmer.  The layers came off once again.  Finally, we could hear sounds from the adjacent highway.  The ancient water tank located at the trailhead came into view.  Finally finished!  Time to head into town for some beer and grub.

Total stats for the day: 9.8 miles round-trip, 3800 feet elevation gain. 

But my weekend fun was not over yet.  Stay tuned for the next blog post - my wonderful weekend part two.