Uphill from Timberline

To ski Mt Hood, it's all uphill from Timberline Lodge!

Amazing sunrise over Mt Hood

Well.....actually I'm not in good enough shape nor posses the skiing ability to summit 11,250 foot Mt Hood.  But I can ski up to the top lift at Timberline Ski Area, and that's a respectable 2,500 foot climb.

Sky color

The last Sunday in February I decided to do just that and invited my buddy Catherine to join me for the fun.  Catherine had recently purchased climbing skins for her cross country skis and wanted to try them out.

Hood peeping out of the clouds

Due to COVID, this year Timberline ski area limited crowds by closing their parking lots once they were full.  Rumor had it the lots filled fast on weekends, so I made Catherine get up extremely early and leave town at the ungodly hour of 5 am.  But the reward for our pre-dawn departure was witnessing an amazing sunrise over Mt Hood.

Illuminated cloud over Mt Hood

We arrived at Timberline so early we got a primo parking spot just steps from the day lodge.  Unfortunately, we also learned the hard way that the day lodge (where the bathrooms were located) didn't open until 7:30.  It was a long hour wait........

Timberline Lodge covered in snow

But Catherine and I busied ourselves with gear preparations (her) and second breakfast (me).  I also made a few treks over to the climber's parking lot, first to capture sunrise and then for some photos of the pretty post-dawn clouds over the mountain.

Ice-encased trees

But finally, gear prepped and bladders emptied, it was time to begin the day's journey!  I led Catherine to the beginning of Timberline's designated climber's route, beside majestic snow-covered Timberline Lodge.  After donning skis and backpacks I showed Catherine the finer points of shuffling uphill on climbing skins.

More white trees

For those who don't ski, uphill (aka backcountry) skiing has become wildly popular over the last few years.  Skiers attach pieces of heavy material to the underside of skis.  This material called "climbing skins" provides enough traction to enable uphill travel without sliding backwards.

Catherine trudging uphill

Most skiers use wide alpine-type skis for backcountry touring.  However, cross country skis also work.  Catherine had a pair of metal edged mountaineering Nordic skis and this was her first time using climbing skins.  Although her skis were much narrower she seemed to quickly get the hang of things.

Admiring the view

Today's weather was nothing short of spectacular.  The few sunrise clouds had drifted away leaving blue, sunny skies.  Snow had fallen the previous day combined with a bit of freezing rain, which left a sparkling winter wonderland.  Mt Hood gleamed in her white covering.  Nearby trees were coated with a thick layer of ice, their contorted shapes looking extremely artistic.  

Timberline Lodge seems sooo small now!

A few photos may have been taken by yours truly.......

Buddy photo 

I like to get creative with my selfies, and to get the above photo, I placed my camera on the ground, set the timer and then shuffled towards it.  I programmed my camera to take 5 shots, so it was fun to see the progressive images.

Lots of uphill skiers today

Unlike many ski resorts, Timberline allows uphill travel.  There are of course a few rules to follow, one being that uphill skiers need to stay off the groomed downhill ski trails.  Timberline has their snowcats plow a special road for climbers and uphill skiers.  The nice weather brought out many folks, most sliding uphill much faster than Catherine and I.

Step aside for the snowcat!

But we didn't mind in the least.  Catherine and I were having a grand time taking in the views.  Towards the south Mt Jefferson poked it's peak up above the clouds.  One of Timberline's snowcats came trucking up and then back down, forcing everyone to the side of the road.  You learn fast, the snowcat always has the right of way!

Catherine poses with Mt Jefferson

Although we'd originally planned to skin all the way up to the top of the Palmer, Timberline's highest lift, icy snow conditions made us reconsider.  That and Catherine was having traction problems.  Her narrow climbing skins didn't cover the entire ski bottom causing her to slip a bit.

Ice covered Silcox Hut

So our plans changed - we decided to turn around at the top of the Magic Mile lift, about one mile and 1000 feet up from Timberline Lodge.  I deemed this far enough for a first-timer.

Snowcat transporting people from the Silcox Hut

At the same elevation as the top of the Magic Mile is a small building called the Silcox Hut.  A rustic lodge built in 1939 by the WPA, this building originally housed the Magic Mile Chairlift's upper bullwheel.  This building was also intended as a warming hut and starting point for climbers.  After the Magic Mile chairlift was relocated in 1962, the lodge became abandoned and fell into disrepair.  Silcox Hut was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1985 and an organization created to restore the lodge.  Present day it is rented out as an overnight facility to groups of up to 24 people and also used for day use activities such as weddings. 

Roof of Silcox Hut coated in ice

Catherine and I approached the ice-covered Silcox Hut.  Despite COVID, we were surprised to see a group of overnight guests exiting and boarding a waiting snowcat (access to this lodge is either by human power or snowcat).  

At 6,950 feet this wide open, above-treeline portion of Mt Hood sees lots of extreme weather.  It was evidenced by the thick coating of ice and wind-packed snow on the building.  Sure made for some cool photo ops!

Magic Mile and Palmer Lift houses

Our final leg of the day's journey took Catherine and I over to the top of the Magic Mile Lift and bottom of the Palmer Lift.  Both lift buildings stood silent, disabled by the previous day's snow and ice storm.  A thick layer of ice coated the lift towers and cables, which would take the ski area maintenance staff a couple of days to completely clear off.  

Ice encrusted Palmer ski lift

Now it was time to remove our climbing skins and ski back down!  

Catherine smiles as she removes her climbing skins

Since Timberline wasn't running the Magic Mile lift that day, the slopes hadn't been groomed.  So Catherine and I had to do our best "survival skiing" down a bumpy, icy snowcat track.  Although she had really skinny cross country skis, Catherine did great!  We both survived our very quick downhill trip.  (We spent about an hour and a half climbing up and a mere 20 minutes skiing back down.)

The ski down over a bumpy cat track

Yes, some folks will say that's a lot of work for only one downhill ski trip.  But I personally enjoy the uphill journey.  It's fun to take in the scenery at a slower pace.  I can have a good conversation and catch up with my friend.  Plus it's great exercise.

Another spectacular (uphill) day on Mt Hood!

Early Season Skiing

 Why is it one of the smallest parts of your body has the potential for causing the most trouble?

Follow the skin track!

I thought my broken toe was finally healed.  I'd rested it and sworn off hiking for nearly a month.  Then in early November I slowly eased back, hiking two weekends in a row with no problems.  So when my friends Young and John wanted to take advantage of a rare mid-November snowfall, I didn't even question if my foot was ready for skiing.

Snow-covered beauty

An early season storm had deposited a thick layer of snow on Mt Hood.  Hungry for some turns, my friends and I eagerly dug out our ski gear and headed to Timberline Lodge one sunny Saturday morning.

Cool morning clouds

The sun had just risen over the adjacent Cascade mountains as Young and I attached climbing skins to our skis and began the long, slow uphill shuffle to the top of Timberline's Palmer ski lift.  A bank of unusual cotton-ball shaped clouds covered the morning sky above Mt Hood.

Looking back at a snow-covered Timberline Lodge

And the view behind us of snow-covered Timberline Lodge tucked under Mt Jefferson's shadow was fantastic. 

Young and the mountains

After attending to some first-day gear adjustments at the truck, John quickly caught up to Young and I.  Together we followed a well-worn track in the snow heading towards the Magic Mile chairlift's terminus and the mid-mountain Silcox Hut.  A mellow ascent of 1000 feet in one mile, it provided an opportunity to prepare unused muscles for the steep climb to come.

Silcox Hut

Reaching the Silcox Hut, Young and I took a quick snack break and admired the view at 7000 feet.  Snow-covered foothills spread out across the horizon.

My skiing companions

Battered by strong winds, the snow here was stiff and icy.  Frozen ridges rippled across the white surface.  One large rock was engulfed by ice crystals in the shape of a wave.

Frozen wave

Now the tough climbing began!  Following the ice-crusted towers of the Palmer lift, our path would now rise 1500 feet in a little over half a mile.

Ready for the steep climb! (photo by Young)

Skiing up a steeper slope required placing more force on the ball of my foot and bending my toes.  As I raised my heels to gain better traction, I felt a sharp twinge in my injured (but I thought was now healed) toe.

Line of backcountry skiers

Oh, that didn't feel right at all.....the next uphill kick brought another stab of pain.  I remembered that sensation.  It was the same feeling I'd experienced when I'd broken the toe hiking.

John by a lift tower

In an attempt to mitigate further damage, I tried putting my weight fully into the big toe (the injured digit was the one next to my small toe).  That seemed to keep the aches at bay for the moment, so I continued my uphill shuffle.

The long uphill slog

Skinning up the Palmer is a popular early-season activity, and there was no shortage of backcountry skiers that morning.  It appeared everyone was hoping to get in some conditioning for the season ahead.  I'm very slow, so pretty much every skier up there passed me by.

Amazing scenery behind

But one man, shuffling uphill on a pair of skinny cross country skis, slowed and began chatting with me.  He claimed he was having a tough time and wanted to take things easier.  I didn't mind the company.  John, being in fantastic shape (despite recovering from a recent cold) was far ahead and Young, starting to show symptoms of John's illness, was struggling behind me.

Palmer midway loading station

The cross-country ski man and I followed the snowcat track paralleling the Palmer chairlift's ice-crusted towers.  The warm sun began melting their icy coating, and every once and awhile a few chunks of ice would come crashing down with a roar.  Certainly kept things exciting, to say the least!

Lots of folks heading uphill

Although this fall I'd kept up my fitness with swimming, weight lifting, and cycle classes, the steep climb still had me gasping for air and pausing frequently to rest burning leg muscles.

Ice-crusted lift towers

After what seemed an eternity, the top of Palmer's lift house slowly came into view.  I spotted John waiting on top.  He shouted encouragement as I shuffled the final distance up the cat track to where he stood.  Yahoo!  I'd made it! 

Lunch break at the top of Palmer

John and I spotted Young far below.  After another 20 minutes she came straggling up the final incline, ready for a break.  John shoveled out a seat in the snow, and the three of us took a relaxing break, enjoying snacks and hot tea.  I stretched out my aching foot.  It wasn't pretty, but my toe had survived the uphill climb.  But would it behave for the trip back down?

Young photographs the mountain

After a nice long rest, taking in the lovely blue-sky day, and watching a steady stream of backcountry skiers reach the top of Palmer and beyond (some continued higher up the mountain) John declared it was time to remove our climbing skins and head back down.  The moment of truth had arrived.....

Time to ski down!

The snow, pounded and packed by the wind, was hard and crunchy.  Turns did not come easy.  Tentatively, I tried a telemark turn, only to be greeted by a stabbing pain in the toe.  Nope, telemark turns were out.  I'd have to "survival ski" downhill using alpine turns instead.

Here comes John

The trip downhill was brutal.  Not only was the snow hard and icy, we found rocks littering the slopes below the Silcox Hut.  Trying to baby my toe, I skied very conservatively, my hesitations causing several wipeouts.  Near the very bottom, we encountered a thick blanket of heavy snow.  Unable to muscle my way through, I flew over my ski tips, into an elegant face-plant.  Watching me flounder in the thick snow trying to get up, wiping off my sunglasses, and knocking snow off my helmet gave Young a good laugh (and of course some great photos too - what are friends for?)

Wipeout aftermath

Back at the truck, I gratefully removed my boot.  Trying to walk to the lodge, my foot rebelled in pain.  Yep, I was pretty sure I'd rebroken the toe.  An apre-ski beer and several of Young's ibuprofen helped take the edge off until I could get home and ice it.

Dodging rocks

So now I'm back to square one....no long distance hikes for a few weeks.  The month of December has been dry thus far, keeping the mountain snow away, so I've not been tempted to do any more skiing.

If it was a large bone broken or some other major injury, I think it would be easier to take a break from my outdoor activities.  But when the damage is limited to a small toe (and an insignificant one at that) and the rest of me is fine, I find it very difficult to lay off entirely.  But rest I will, because I don't want to miss ski season. 

(I know you're all tired of hearing about my stupid toe, so hopefully this will be the last time I have to write about it!) 

Glade and Alpine Ski Trails

Although I've been skiing a ton at the resorts this winter, my backcountry ski gear has been sorely neglected.  This past President's Day I decided to change that and revisit a trail I'd done over the same weekend in 2014, the Glade Ski Trail.

Trailhead is at the end of this road

At the base of Mt Hood lies the tiny village of Government Camp.  Consisting of condos, ski shops, and cute vacation chalets, many trails fan out into the woods above this charming hamlet.  A few ski trails connect Govy (as the locals affectionately call their town) with Timberline Ski Area.  Two of the most well-known are the Glade and Alpine trails.

LOTS of snow this year!

Although I'd skied up and then down the Glade three years ago, the Alpine was a "new to me" ski trail.  I decided my plan for the day would be to ski up the Glade and then locate and take a trip down the Alpine trail, and return to my starting point via the Crosstown Trail.  A nifty six-mile loop and good bit of exercise for a snowy February morning.

Glade Trailhead

Temps were hovering right around the freezing mark when I parked my car along Govy's main drag and hoofed it three blocks up a residential street leading to the Glade's trailhead.  Giant snowbanks lining the road were evidence of this year's colossal snowfall.  Some homes had barely a slot tunneled into the snow to park their vehicles, while decks and rooftops sported thick blankets of the white stuff.

Ready to start

Heavy wet snow pelted my face as I attached climbing skins to skis and prepared for the day's journey.  After a couple of photos, I shouldered my backpack and was off.

Easy to follow, the Glade parallels an old clearing used for the short-lived Mt Hood Skiway, a unique transportation system in the 1950's that used regular city buses suspended on cables to shuttle skiers from Government Camp to Timberline Lodge.

Action selfie

The heavy, wet snow made for some slow going.  Globs of snow began sticking to my climbing skins, necessitating frequent stops to clear the undersides of my skis.  The warm temps had me sweating in no time.  I made more stops to shed clothing and of course, take photos.  One time I even laid my camera on the snow and used the self-timer to get a few action shots.

Uphill climb through the forest

About halfway, frustration mounting due to the constant sticky snow underfoot, I finally dug a block of skin wax out of my backpack and applied it to the climbing skins.  I'd bought the stuff many years ago, and this was the first time I'd ever used it.  I'm happy to report the stuff worked.  It made the going much easier thereafter, so I guess it was a good investment.

I spot the ski lift

The trail alternated between being mildly steep to navigating a few sharp uphills.  A couple of older cross country skiers passed me (I swear I'm the slowest uphill skier ever!) and I pumped them for information on where to find the Alpine Trail.

And then, just when I thought the trail would go on forever, I spotted a lift tower of Timberline's Stormin' Norman chairlift.  Hooray!

Entrance to Timberline Ski Area

The previous trip, I'd continued up Timberline's ski runs another 1000 vertical feet to it's famous lodge.  But not really wanting to dodge crowds of downhill skiers, I decided today's uphill trip would end at the ski area boundary.

There's the sign!

So I stood in the snow just beyond the rope, changed into a warmer jacket, donned my helmet, and peeled climbing skins off my skis.  Several skiers zipped by, a few stopping to inquire what I was doing.  When I told them I'd skied up from Govy, they were all impressed.

Beginning of the Alpine Trail

Up at this higher elevation the snow wasn't as wet and instead blanketed the ground in a soft layer.  I was happy for this - my gloves and hat were soaked from the wet snow-rain (or as I like to call it, "snain")

Ready for some downhill turns!

I was a little apprehensive about finding the Alpine Trail.  The other skiers I'd met directed me to travel down Timberline's Kruser run for a short distance, and I'd see it.  So I joined the other folks on this busy slope.  Not keen on having to retrace my steps uphill, I kept an eagle eye out for the sign.   And, just as I was told, it didn't take but a minute and I spotted a wide clearing with another sign.  Yahoo!

Lovely path through the woods

After two hours of grueling uphill sliding, it was time to reap my reward!  The newly-fallen snow looked wonderful.  I couldn't wait to sink my ski edges into it. 

Snow-covered fir tree

But these local trails were not groomed, and I found out quickly that the underlying snow was uneven and crusty.  After hitting a couple of surprise bumps and wiping out, I decided to slow down.  Cautiously sliding short distances, I made my downhill trip last a bit longer. 

Tons of moss

That was okay - the adjacent forests were quite lovely.  One section was lined with interesting moss-draped trees.  Another stretch featured a bunch of cute firs, flocked with a coating of winter white.  I felt like I was in a Christmas tree farm.

Challenging portion of the Alpine Trail

The Alpine Trail was steeper than the Glade and a few of the narrow, uneven segments were quite challenging.  With better snow conditions, I would have had no problems, but today's crunchy snow caused me to take it easy (self preservation!)

Time to put the skins back on my skis

Even with my slow downhill pace, I reached the bottom in about 15 minutes.  The trail's terminus met up with one of tiny Summit Ski area's groomed runs.  After the Alpine uneven terrain, it felt good to glide on a groomer.  But now I kept my eyes peeled for the Crosstown Trail, the final leg of my journey.

Another action selfie

The Crosstown Trail was even rougher than the Alpine.  Mainly a snowshoe route connecting Govy's ski trails, it meandered through the trees behind some vacation homes.  Lumpy snow trampled by hundreds of snowshoers, navigating the track was a challenge.  After a couple of uphills had me sliding backwards, I decided to put climbing skins back on my skis.

Pretty creek

But the scenery was wonderful.  More snowy trees and a cute little creek to cross.  I placed my camera on a tree stump to get a few more action shots, and was surprised by a family of snowshoers, who graciously offered to take my picture.

"Skiville, Oregon"

Ending back at the Glade trailhead, the snowfall was again bordering on slushy rain.  Now soaking wet from being out in the weather all morning, I decided the day's journey was done.  Time to change clothes at my car and find a hot drink in town.

While walking back through Govy's streets, I passed by a cute little cabin.  A sign above the upper door proclaimed it "Skiville, Oregon."  I kind of liked the moniker....maybe Government Camp should consider a new name?

Six miles traveled, and 1000 feet of elevation gain - a great day to be up on the mountain!