Ladies Backcountry Ski Day

After hiking up the Tilly Jane Ski trail one hot day last summer, I was itching for a colder, snowier revisit.  Clear skies were forecast MLK weekend so I rounded up my adventure buddies Young and Catherine for a ladies ski day.

My partners in crime!

Although Young and I are long time backcountry ski buddies, this would be a totally new experience for Catherine.  The short 3-mile trek to Tilly Jane cabin provided a perfect first-timer introduction to the world of backcountry skiing.

Sliding uphill

Arriving at the parking area, it took several minutes for the three of us to don appropriate clothing, buckle up boots, locate skis and poles, and make sure our backpacks contained the essentials.  But finally, gear together, my friends and I approached the forested lower trail.

Lovely snowy forest

The first half mile of the Tilly Jane Trail wound through a fir forest.  An earlier snowstorm had dumped a foot of fluffy white.  Drooping tree branches, thickly laden with snow, made the woods look positively magical.  My friends and I oohed and aahed as we slid along, with me opting for several  photo breaks.

Catherine admires the scenery

Sporting true backcountry skis with climbing skins, Young and I slid uphill with ease.  Catherine, however, had only cross country skis with patterned bottoms and no skins.  Steep climbs were much more challenging, but Catherine managed to successfully side-step up the first few little hills.

Catherine did great despite not having climbing skins

We came upon the first trail junction, with it's multiple signs, each showing different distances, degrees of difficulty, and spellings of "Tilley" Jane.

Many signs, different distances

From this junction, the uphill path became much steeper, and the packed snow track more slippery.  Deciding enough was enough, Catherine removed her skis and strapped them to her backpack.  She'd hoof it on foot from here.

Time to carry the skis!

With packed snow providing a firm base, Catherine trotted quickly ahead of Young and I (jokingly teasing as we labored uphill). 

Gliding through the burn zone

But the forest quickly cleared, and we entered the burn zone from the 2008 Gnarl Ridge fire.  Although the forests of bleak, gray trees were sobering, the bright side was this fire opened up fantastic view corridors, giving hikers glimpses of the adjacent foothills and mountain peaks. Best of all, the fire's aftermath left front-row, in-your-face views of Mt Hood the entire way.

Mt Hood makes an appearance

It was a brisk climb, alternating from moderately to super-steep.  Climbing each rise, Young and I would proclaim this hill to be the one where the Tilly Jane cabin was located.  But we'd reach the summit, only to find more snowy forest stretching ahead.  (Are we there yet?)

Spectacular scenery!

The Tilly Jane cabin is available for overnight group rentals.  As my friends and I trudged uphill, we met a group of Boy Scouts heading down, who'd spent the previous night at the cabin.  A couple of the boys were sliding down the trail in plastic sleds.  The group looked like they'd all had a great time.  What fun memories for these young men!

Clouds hugging the adjacent hills

The clear, sunny weather was nearly perfect for our hike/ski.  A strong wind higher up had us donning our jackets again, but uphill movement kept my friends and I toasty warm.  Now if only we could find that darned cabin.....

Catherine taking it in

Nearing lunchtime, everyone was getting tired and hangry.  Just when I thought we'd never see the Tilly Jane cabin, we topped the final hill, and there it was!

Finally the cabin!

Yahoo!  A sight for sore eyes!  After posing for a couple of group victory photos (achieved by setting my camera's timer and balancing it on my backpack), it was time for some rest and nourishment.

Victory photo at Tilly Jane cabin

Catherine showed us a cool way to rest your back while sitting in the snow.  Just cross your skis and plant the ends in the snow!  She really knows how to relax in style.

Catherine relaxes in style

We chose a spot in the sun, donned warm layers, and enjoyed our lunch break.  Sandwiches, hot tea, and ginger cookies were on the menu.

Panoramic break spot

With some incredible panoramic views from our lunch spot.

Our lunchtime view

The Tilly Jane Trail is a popular ski and snowshoe winter hike, and while we ate, my friends and I watched several people (and cute dogs) ascend this final hill to the cabin.

Watching the hikers and dogs approach

Then, with food in our tummies, it was time for the moment we'd all been waiting for.  The ski down!

Time to ski downhill!

All the way up I'd been longingly eyeing the fluffy new-fallen snow in the trees beside our trail.  Was it as light and powdery as it looked?  We were about to find out.

Catherine perfects her snowplow

Oh yeah!  The snow was divine.  Making tracks through the trees, Young, Catherine, and I whooped and hollered as we zipped down the first hill.

Young looking for untracked pow

Although Catherine was a bit tentative at first, she soon got into the rhythm of things and did great.  The only mishap was mine - after flying down a hill I hit a deep patch of fluff and promptly face-planted.  Luckily it was a soft landing, and there were no witnesses to my klutziness.  But getting back up necessitated taking off skis and backpack (I felt like a turtle, stuck on my back!).

Sunshine in the forest

Not only was the snow perfect for skiing, afternoon light illuminated the far hills, and the scenery was just as awesome as our trek up.  Conditions couldn't have been more perfect.

Scenery break

Reaching the last half mile back in the forest, our trail became a slippery tread of packed snow, forcing a prodigious use of edges and our best survival skiing skills.  Catherine, on cross country skis which are harder to control, cried uncle first, opting to continue on foot.  I finally did the same about a quarter mile from the trailhead.  Young was the only die-hard skier in our group to make it the entire way back on her boards.

Finding fresh tracks through the trees

Back at my car, poor Catherine was having a hard time releasing the buckles on her ski boots.  Brand new last year, she'd only used them a couple of times.  Young and I tried to help, but only succeeded in ratcheting them tighter.  Not wanting to shut off our friend's circulation, we abandoned our release efforts.  Catherine cheerfully joked she'd just have to wear her boots home.  Good thing I was driving!

More powder turns

On the drive home, once we had cell service, Catherine searched google for a video that would offer instructions about loosening her boots (a great idea I would've never thought of).  But the only video  she could find was in French.  Although it made for some entertaining moments, the video wasn't much help.  Then I suggested Catherine call the store where she bought her boots.  After a funny and somewhat embarrassing conversation (Catherine was such a good sport about it all) she got the needed advice, and freed her feet.  Hallelujah! 

Young zips past the signpost

A great day to be outside in the beautiful, snowy Mt Hood National Forest.  Lots of smiles and laughter with my friends.  Thanks Young and Catherine for such wonderful company!

Hike number 3 of 52 is in the books!  (Backcountry skiing counts too)

Hot Day on Tilly Jane

The Pacific NW experienced another summer of record-breaking heat.  It was a tough few months for us PNW'ers accustomed to cloudy skies, moderate temperatures, and cool, wet weather.(Agghhh....what's that glowing globe in the sky???)

Doubly difficult if you're planning to hike above timberline on Mt Hood.

Mt Hood sighting

For one of my mid-July Fridays off I planned to explore a trail that until now I'd only experienced during winter months, the Tilly Jane Ski Trail.  This route passed through an old burn area showcasing spectacular mountain views, including picture-perfect Mt Hood vistas.

Butterfly posing for me

I'd seen photos from past summers where the fireweed grew thick below skeletons of burned-out trees.  Hoping to catch the bloom, I headed to Mt Hood's Northeast side and parked near the Cooper Spur Ski Area.  Having previously only visited during winter months, the trailhead and parking area looked so different without snow!

Purple power

Then it was slather on the sunscreen, top off my water bladder, don a large, shady hat, and hit the trail!  The first mile meandered through thick forest.  Temps were already rising, so I enjoyed the shade while I could.

Mountain views through the burn

Beyond a trail junction, the terrain abruptly changed.  I entered the burn zone from the 2008 Gnarl Ridge Fire.  Gray, dead, tree trunk-covered slopes as far as the eye could see.  (No more shade for me!)  But the silver lining was this lack of vegetation cleared the way for amazing views of Mt Hood.  And, although I was too early to catch peak fireweed bloom, the ground was thickly covered with other yellow and purple wildflowers.  Totally unexpected!

Tilly Jane A-frame cabin

So, per normal "Linda with a camera" hiking speed, I sauntered slowly by these colorful flower fields, capturing the beauty from all angles.  (However, full sun and hot temperatures also were to blame for my granny-gear pace.)

Lupine

After nearly three miles and 2000 feet of uphill climbing, I came upon the famous Tilly Jane A-frame Cabin.  Maintained by the Oregon Nordic Club, this rustic building can be reserved for year-round overnight accommodations.  (The only hitch, access is human-powered.  Visitors have to hike or ski/snowshoe to get here.)  On this day, I took advantage of the cabin's sturdy outdoor picnic tables for a short rest and snack break.

Timberline Trail intersection

Then after a bit of snooping around, located trail 600A, a connector that would take me to the 'round the mountain Timberline Trail.  Another mile and thousand feet of climbing was in store.

Cooper Spur shelter

Oh boy, this part of the hike was tough!  Although the path wound through a few forested areas at first, the majority of this leg was above timberline in full sun.  Steeply uphill.  At midday.

Three peak view

Needless to say, I reached the Timberline Trail junction feeling fully cooked.  I'd been sipping water from my Camelback reservoir at regular intervals, but it didn't seem to make a difference.  Feeling a tiny bit delirious from the heat, I scanned uphill towards the Cooper Spur Trail, trying to locate the stone shelter.  My day's destination, I was hoping it wasn't much farther.

Hood looks really close!

Upward I slogged at a snail's pace.  Although the shelter itself was only a quarter mile from the Timberline Trail junction, at the time it seemed like I would never get there.

Shelter and mountains

Finally the metal roof of the tiny rock structure came into view.  Toiling up the final steep pitch, I was never so happy to see the shelter's rocky walls.  I gratefully removed my backpack and sank into a tiny patch of shade.  Time for some food, rest, and copious amounts of electrolyte drink!

Stone shelter close-u[

Built by the Civilian Conservation Corp in the 1930's, several of these sturdy little shelters were constructed in strategic places around Mt Hood.  Designed to withstand extreme mountain weather, all featured small wood-burning fireplaces, metal roofs, thick rock walls, and dirt floors.  Although primitive, these tiny huts were intended to provide refuge from the elements for hikers, skiers, and rescue parties.  Sadly, only three shelters have survived (the other two are located at McNeil Point and Cairn Basin). 

Purple trail

At 6700 feet elevation, the Cooper Spur Shelter provided impressive vistas of the surrounding Cascade peaks (Mt St Helens, Rainer, and Adams) and in-your-face views of Mt Hood.  After resting and re-hydrating, it wasn't long before my camera came out of it's bag.

Some white-ish lupine

Although clear skies meant full sun exposure on this scorching hot day, it also provided perfect views of nearby Cascade peaks.  I guess there are some advantages to sunshine!

Mountains peek through the trees

Rest and hydration did wonders for my parched body.  After a half hour break, I was ready to haul my hot, sweaty, tired self back down the mountain.  Although facing a four mile return trip, at least this time gravity would be in my favor.
 

Lupine and bug

The first mile back to Tilly Jane A-frame was steep and challenging.  My quads and feet weren't too happy about this rocky, arduous descent but once we reached the cabin, the trail flattened out a little.

Silver forest

Normally forest fires leave behind charred patches of ugliness, but the Tilly Jane Trail is really a scenic area.  These silver, ghostly trees add to the beauty.  Void of vegetation, the surrounding hills and Cascade peaks are visible.  Exposed to full sun, wildlowers bloom profusely.  Although I didn't take as many flower photos (the uphill trip had already been well documented) my return trek became focused on capturing the mountains, gleaming white between bare trunks.

Lots of Penstemon

On such a beautiful summer's day, I expected to see lots of hikers out and about.  But I only encountered a handful of folks the entire time, and most of them were near the Timberline Trail.

The flowers were amazing!

Guess this place is kind of a hidden secret.  (Well, until certain bloggers post fantastic wildflower and scenery photos. Wink, wink!) 

Golden flower patch

When I finally reached the trailhead it was over 90 degrees, and I'd sucked the last drops of water from my Camelback reservoir.  Thirsty, sweaty, and filthy dirty (dust from the trail had stuck to my sweaty legs so it looked like I'd hiked through mud) I felt totally gross.  The water bottle I'd left inside my car felt like bathwater.  Perfect for cleaning up, but not so perfect for drinking.  Time to head to the nearest town for a cold beverage!

Washington Lily

Another "new to me" hike (well, sort of), I discovered the Tilly Jane Ski Trail is just as amazing in summer as winter.  Hindsight has a way of diminishing the difficulties while amplifying the wonder.  Once back home, showered, and reviewing the day's photos with a cold beer in hand, I decided it had been totally worth the toasty trek.


Stats:  8 miles round-trip, 3000 feet elevation gain.

Tilly Jane

It was the weekend, all my friends were busy, and I was hankerin' to ski up a forested trail.  But skiing outside of the resorts is normally not something done alone.  Hmmmm........How's a girl supposed to get her backcountry fix?

Have skis, will travel

Luckily, around the Mt. Hood area, ski trails abound - some of them well-used and located in areas relatively safe from avalanches.  One of these such routes is none other than the historic Tilly Jane Ski Trail.

Little snowman in the woods

I'd skied this trail a couple years before, with a Mazamas ski mountaineering class.  I remembered it passed through a ridge, once the site of a massive forest fire.  The old burned out trees opened up for some nice views.  Tilly Jane was also a very popular trail, so chances were good I wouldn't be alone.  Time for a revisit!

Skimpy snow in some places

Driving to the trailhead that morning, I was dismayed by the lack of snow along the roadside.  Once at the parking area, the first thing I did was check out conditions.  The trail was covered - just barely.  A narrow ribbon of icy snow clung to the tread.  Although things didn't look real promising, I strapped on my skis and headed up anyway, hoping coverage would improve higher up.

Signs, signs, everywhere signs.....

The first half mile was a challenge.  I dodged rocks, fallen trees, and even crossed a couple of swampy creeks.  I had to take my skis off and walk a small distance through a couple patches of bare trail.  Finally, I reached the first big trail junction.  Signs were posted on several different trees, some fairly new, and others old and weather-beaten.  Several paths met here, but I was only interested in one - the route to Tilly Jane A-frame cabin.

Burned out forest

From here, the climbing began in earnest.  Snow coverage increased, and finally my trail was totally encased in white.  It was a relief to no longer dodge rocks and bushes.  A short distance later, I reached the edge of the Gnarl Ridge fire limits.

First Mt. Hood sighting

In the fall of 2008, a massive forest fire charred the woods in this area, threatened homes, and a nearby ski area.  Also in peril were the historic Tilly Jane A-frame cabin and the Cloud Cap Inn. Through hard work from brave firefighters, all these structures were spared from destruction.

Skiing selfie

The burned-out forest, although stark and ghostly, was actually quite scenic.  The charred stumps and bleached gray trunks lined an open ridge.  Lack of vegetation here provided some mighty fine views of the adjacent forested hills.

Rear view

I passed a large rock that was just begging me to set my camera on it.  Perfect prop for a few action selfies.

Follow the blue diamonds

Thanks to a well-trod track through the snow, the trail was easy to follow.  But occasional blue diamonds nailed into the trees helped with navigation.

Hood guides me on

The sun began to intermittently peep out of it's cloud cover.  When the woods brightened up, I'd quickly dig out my camera, trying to capture some of the stark gray trees against blue sky.  Cloud-cloaked Mt. Hood appeared above the skyline, guiding my path.

The sun breaks out

Although temps were beginning to warm, the snow remained quite icy.  Sliding along, I began to worry that the ski back down would be treacherous.  I'm not a fan of skiing on ice, especially in a treed slope.

Dead tree peek-a-boo

From the parking area, it's three miles and about 2000 vertical feet of climbing to reach the Tilly Jane cabin.  Well into late morning, I kept climbing short hills, thinking I'd see it at the crest.  But each time I reached the top, there was no cabin in sight. 

My friend the sunburst

I kept leapfrogging a snowshoeing couple with a large dog.  I'd get ahead and then stop to take photos, and they'd pass me by.  Finally I came upon them resting in a large treewell.  The man asked if I knew how far the cabin was.  I told him I thought we were close, but having only been up here once before, I wasn't exactly sure.  The man thanked me and said their dog was tired, so they were heading back down.

Mountain views in the distance

Upon parting with the snowshoers, I began climbing up another big hill.  Huffing and puffing, I decided if I didn't see that darn cabin soon, I was going to stop for lunch anyway.  Then I crested the hill, and up ahead in the woods was the peaked roofline of the Tilly Jane A-frame cabin.  It wasn't a quarter mile from where the other party had turned around.  They were so close!

Tilly Jane A-frame cabin

The Tilly Jane cabin was built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC).  This group also built the nearby historic Guard Station, and the ski trail I'd followed today.  The cabin is managed by the Oregon Nordic Club, and reservations are required to spend the night.

Although I'd reached the cabin over the noon hour, I found it deserted.  There were backpacks and sleeping bags inside, indicating it was occupied for the weekend.  I assumed the group staying here was probably out enjoying the fine day.

Skiing back through the woods

I ate my lunch at a nice sturdy table, enjoying the heat from a small fire smoldering in the wood stove.  Nice to have a warm shelter and dry place to sit.

Cool wispy clouds

I spent about 45 minutes at the cabin, eating, taking photos, and getting my skis ready for the downhill trip.  In that short time, the sun's mighty rays worked their magic on the snowy trail.  When I was ready to ski down, I found much to my delight, that the snow had been transformed from a stiff, icy crust to lovely soft corn.

Oh it was a fun trip downhill!  The sun was warm, the snow perfect.  I whooped and hollered as I zipped through the trees.  What took nearly three hours to climb, was covered in about 15 minutes of descent. 

Ending on one of Cooper Spur's ski runs

The last mile of trail, with it's skimpy snowpack, was just too bare to properly ski on.  I didn't want to scratch and ding my ski bases, so I loaded them onto my backpack and hiked the rest of the way out.  Upon reaching the big junction, I decided to take a different trail back.  I hiked over to the now-closed Cooper Spur Ski area.  Coming out on top of a ski run, I put my boards back on for one final downhill slide.

It was great to get outside on such a lovely winter's day and revisit a scenic and historic part of Mt. Hood.  And it was a great confidence builder for me to complete a solo backcountry ski tour.


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