Italy Day Seventeen - All Roads Lead to Rome!

 (A multi-part recap of my mid-April to early May Italy trip.)

All through my Italy tour any time I'd comment about the crowds, someone would ominously reply "Just wait 'till you get to Rome!"  My friend Debbie, who'd been there several times, also warned not only was Rome insanely busy, but you had to be on guard for pickpockets.  So it was with a bit of trepidation that I awoke on the seventeenth day of my trip, knowing our destination would be this enormous, chaotic city.

But Rome, well it was the place to visit in Italy.  Home to some of the most important historical sites in Western civilization, Italy's political capital, the epicenter of Catholic faith, dozens of incredible art museums, and fantastic food everywhere, no trip to Italy would be complete without a stop in the Eternal City.

The gang's all here (almost!)

Gathering on the hotel patio that morning, our main guide (MG) requested we all line up for a final group photo.  She ran to get Pino, the bus driver, to include him in our shot.  However, she made our assistant guide (AG) stay with the bus, so he wasn't included in the picture.  Many of my tour-mates (including me) were a bit upset that the AG got snubbed.  It sure seemed like a deliberate move on the part of our MG.  We were in the middle of the country, it wasn't like someone was going to come and burglarize the bus (if that was really a worry, Pino could've locked it.)  Just one more reason to dislike the MG.  Good thing our tour was almost over!

Our last Autogrill stop

Picture time over, Pino piloted his bus onto the road heading towards Rome (like we'd been told throughout our trip - all roads lead to Rome!)  Enroute our group took one final break at a roadside Autogrill.  After nearly daily visits to Autogrills for the past three weeks, these ubiquitous truck stops had become familiar places.  I'd miss their dependably clean restrooms and huge convenience stores, with a wide selection of drinks and snacks.  It was always interesting to check out the different sodas, candy, chips, and other junk foods they had in Italy.

Tired of Italian food, Kim and I ate hamburgers for lunch

Before long, traffic on the highway became heavier, and the amount of travel lanes increased.  The surrounding countryside gave way to apartment buildings and businesses.  We'd entered the outskirts of Rome.  Another hour of driving got us to Plaza Repubblica, a large circular piazza near the train station.  MG told us this was would be the stopping point - our hotel was nearby.  Everyone unloaded the bus one final time and bid driver Pino a fond arrivederci before gathering our luggage and following MG down the narrow cobblestone sidewalks of Rome.

After staying in such a swanky hotel for the past two nights, our Rome digs were mighty disappointing.  Although our room was clean, Kim and I found the the furnishings well-worn, our beds rock hard, and the bathroom tiny.  And the place didn't appear to have air conditioning.  Oh well, it was close to many attractions and places to eat, likely the reason it had been chosen.

Roman ruins below street level

Speaking of food - it was noon and after hotel check-in, MG gave us a couple of hours to settle in and grab lunch before the next activity.  After nearly three weeks in Italy at this point, Kim and I were weary of the endless parade of pizza, pasta, and paninis found throughout this country.  (Yes, I never thought I'd say it - I was getting tired of Italian food!)  We were both craving a good ol' American hamburger.  So Kim and I walked a block down the street from our hotel and found a cafe with burgers and fries on the menu.  Sadly, we discovered Italy didn't make hamburgers nearly as well as in the states.  The sorry excuse for burgers we had cured us both!

Roman temple ruins at Largo di Torre Argentina

Soon it was time to gather outside the hotel for our walking tour of Rome.  Everyone assumed we'd be hoofing it to the meet-up location, but MG had a surprise.  She'd arranged a fleet of vans to shuttle everyone to the beginning of our walking tour.  The vans quickly whisked my tour-mates and I to a random street corner.  Although it was nice to save the extra dozen blocks of wear and tear on the feet, the quick trip didn't help us get our bearings in this unknown, gigantic city.  I hoped I'd be able to find my way back.

Typical Rome street scene

Dumped out of the vans, everyone gathered on an extremely busy streetcorner, where our two local guides were waiting.  MG gathered both local guides and spend the next ten minutes giving them instructions.  I grew impatient - she had the entire day off yesterday, and obviously didn't use it for planning purposes!  You think she could've conveyed everything to the guides in advance the previous day (or even this morning while on the bus) instead of making everyone wait.  I was really growing tired of MG's lack of organization.

Ancient obelisk in a parking lot

Finally, plans conveyed, we were again split into two groups, each with one of the local guides.  The woman we were assigned seemed very knowledgeable and also spoke good English.  She led us a couple of blocks away to a large excavated area that took up nearly two city blocks.  In the huge hole below street level sat several old walls, ancient building foundations, and a few crumbling pillars.  Our guide explained these were ruins of four Roman temples and the Theatre of Pompey.  The place was called Largo di Torre Argentina, named due to the fact that the ancient "Argentario," or silver/money men, conducted their trade here.  She also told us historians believe this was the place that Julius Caesar was assassinated.  And amongst all this history, locals operated a no-kill cat shelter (home to an estimated 350 cats) underneath the ruins along one side of the block.

Decaying marble reveals a brick interior

One of the unique challenges of doing any kind of construction project in Rome was the presence of ancient artifacts beneath the ground surface.  They were everywhere.  Once discovered, all work had to be halted for an archeological assessment.  This was what happened at Largo di Torre Argentina in 1927, when the local government decided to demolish the ancient structures in favor of reconstructing and modernizing the area.  However when parts of a marble statue were found, it was determined the area was a holy place, and these temple remains were preserved.  

Piazza Navona

From the Largo di Torre Argentina, our local guide led us through the narrow, crowded streets of Rome for several blocks before we emerged from a tiny alley into an enormous public plaza.  This, she explained was Piazza Navona.  A long, oval-shaped plaza it was once used as a racetrack in AD 80.  Now it was home to three large fountains and surrounded by outdoor cafes and churches.  A popular gathering place for locals, the area was packed with people.

The Four Rivers Fountain

We walked over to the most famous of the three fountains, a huge marble masterpiece known as the Four Rivers Fountain.  Situated in the center of Piazza Navona, a tall obelisk rose from the middle of the fountain, surrounded by beautiful marble figures.  These fantastic sculptures were created in 1651 by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.

Ancient obelisk in the fountain 

This fountain was sculpted by Bernini

The sculptures consisted of four reclined figures sitting atop the rocks, water spurting from many openings.  These figures were supposed to be river gods, representing the world's four quarters.  

Another look at the Four Rivers Fountain

Such a pretty fountain!  The only problem - there were so many people surrounding the area, it was extremely difficult to get an unobstructed photo.  (Lucky for me, my photo editing program does a great job cropping out unwanted items.)

Crowded street scene

Fountain of Neptune

The other two public fountains had more of an oceanic theme.  I chose to photograph the most northerly one, called the Fountain of Neptune.  True to its name, the fountain had a large sculpture of King Neptune in the center, surrounded by various sea nymphs.  This particular work of art was created in 1574 and the Neptune statue added in 1878.

A dome in the distance

After allowing ample time to view and photograph the plaza's fountains, it was time again to move on.  Our group was led through a few more busy streets until arriving at another large plaza, surrounded by many official-looking buildings.  Our guide pointed to one peach-colored structure with flags flying over its entrance and explained this was the Italian parliament building.

Italian parliament building

This particular plaza was called the Piazza di Montecitorio.  Across from the parliament building was a tall obelisk, brought to Rome from Egypt by Emperor Augustus.  This obelisk was thought to date back to the sixth century BC.  In the Emperor's day this obelisk acted as a sundial and calendar.  In modern times, it still functioned as a sundial.  

Piazza di Montecitorio and Egyptian obelisk

Walking to the next piazza

A short distance from the parliament building, we followed a wide walkway that led to another plaza, this one called Piazza Colonna.  In this public square was another tall column.  This impressive structure was made of carved Carrara marble, 28 cylindrical blocks stacked atop each other, to form a breathtaking 100-foot tall work of art.

  

Obelisk in Piazza Colonna

Just look at the details in this column.  Simply amazing!  And it had stood in this plaza since the second century AD.  How did people make things like this way back then without the modern tools we have today?

This column has stood here since 2 AD

After gazing at this stunning column, and taking dozens of photos, our group was again on the move.  After dodging crowded sidewalks once more for several blocks, my group was led to a large church.  Once inside, the first thing I noticed was its marvelous ceiling.  It was elaborately painted with heavenly scenes, the paintings covering nearly every square inch.

Stunning interior of Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola

This grand church was the Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola.  Built between 1626 and 1650, it was dedicated to St. Ignatious of Loyola, the founder of the Society of Jesus (aka the Jesuits.)  Famous for its Barouque style of architecture and impressive optical illusion artwork, this house of worship was a popular stop for tourists in Rome, as witnessed by the large crowds milling around inside.

Yet another beautifully ornate Italian church

While the church was undergoing construction, funds began to run low, and corners had to be cut.  One of the items on the chopping block included a real stone dome.  No problem, Andrea Pozzo, the artist commissioned to paint the ceiling instead created the illusion of a dome over the central nave with a stunning fresco.  The ceiling art was quite outstanding - it totally appeared to be the underside of a dome.  I couldn't tell that it was just an ordinary flat ceiling.

Side altar

A golden disc had been placed in the center of the main floor marking the spot where visitors could stand to get an undistorted view of the ceiling art.  There was also a large angled mirror installed in another place on the floor where, for a small price, people could capture the perfect selfie or photograph of the ceiling without straining their necks.  However, there were so many people waiting at both places to get photos, that I didn't even bother to try.

Tall marble columns

Wow was this place fancy!  I gaped at the gold-gilded paintings and the ornate sculptured pillars and doorways.  The amount of marble framing many of the side altars was astounding.

 

Intricate artwork

Checking out a statue

The ceiling was painted to look like a dome

Such a beautiful altar!

Our group was allowed plenty of time to explore all of the church's side altars and gape at the huge collection of opulent artwork.  But for me, I thought the colorful, detailed paintings lining the ceilings and walls were the most breathtaking art in this chiesa. 

Monument to Pope Gregory XV

Time to move on once more!  Departing the church, we then headed for one of the most iconic sights in Rome - the famous Trevi Fountain.  As we walked down the street leading to this fountain, the crowd began to thicken even more than before.  I later read that no street directly approaches this fountain and I found that to be true.  Our group turned a corner, and there it was.  We were instantly surrounded by wall to wall people, covering every inch of the large plaza directly in front of the Trevi Fountain.  This famous fountain was behind the throngs, backdropped by beautiful marble palace.

The Trevi Fountain area was an absolute madhouse!

Before anyone approached the madhouse crowd, our MG warned us to keep an eye on our valuables, as this was a place where the pickpockets hung out.  She also encouraged us to use "polite elbows" to make our way to a viewing area.  Apparently one had to be a bit assertive, otherwise you likely wouldn't see anything.

We all shoved through the crowds to get some photos

So, elbows at the ready, my friends and I approached the huge mass of people gathered around the Trevi Fountain.  Looking for a gap in the mob, I successfully wormed myself up to a railing above the lower fountain area.  Even with a bit of a front row view, it was still hard to get photographs without people in the way.

Zoomed in shot (to crop out the people)

Rome has a tradition that if you toss a coin over your shoulder into the Trevi Fountain, it guarantees you will return.  Due to the sheer number of tourists wanting to get close enough to try this, the city of Rome had recently instituted a 2 euro fee to anyone wishing to enter the fountain's lower basin.  Looking at the long line of visitors waiting their turn to do the coin toss, my friends and I all agreed there was no way we were going to brave that chaos.  We'd had a good look at the Trevi, that was enough.

I didn't get close enough to throw in a coin - next time!

Through later research I discovered the Trevi Fountain was conceived by architect Nicola Salvi in 1762.  The central figure in the fountain sculptures is a large figure simply known as the "Ocean."  He stands in a shell-shaped chariot, while winged horses represent waves.  The entire ensemble is led by Tritons blowing their conch shells.  Water gushes out from 24 different spouts and tumbles everywhere.  The beautiful marble palace behind the fountain has been seamlessly incorporated into the beautiful fountain artwork.

Fountain selfie

After settling for a group selfie of my friends with the fountain (and the crowds) in the background, we were on the go again, this time to our tour's final destination - the Spanish Steps.  (By the way, the reason for the "AI generated content" watermark in the above photo is because I used my phone's photo editing software to remove someone's head.  Otherwise, it's all from my phone camera, baby!)

Trinita dei Monti church at the top of the Spanish Steps

Another extremely famous landmark in Rome, the Spanish Steps were an elegant, sweeping stairway connecting the historic Piazza di Spagna plaza at the bottom to the Trinità dei Monti French monastery church at the top.

Street above the Spanish Steps

Approaching from the uphill side, our group traveled down a wide street, lined with several swanky hotels, until arriving at the French church at the top of the steps.  Trinità dei Monti was an elegant looking building, with a large obelisk in front and picturesque twin bell towers rising above street level.

The Spanish Steps

From the street fronting this French church, wide, white steps cascaded downhill in a grand sweeping arc.  These were the famous Spanish Steps, so named for the Spanish embassy located at their very bottom.   Although step's whitish appearance suggested they were made of marble, in fact they were comprised of travertine, a type of porous limestone that looks very similar.

Looking toward the bottom of the Spanish Steps

As expected, the steps were crowded with tourists walking up and down.  Our group headed over to the top and everyone started downhill towards the lower piazza.  Our guide warned us that sitting on the steps was prohibited, and people have been given steep fines for violating this rule.

A popular Rome attraction!

The surrounding buildings were scenic, the area adjacent to the steps beautifully landscaped, and the views from on top wonderful.  And to add to all this, several hundred blooming azalea plants had been placed on and around the Spanish Steps midway landing.  Our MG said that this happened every spring and the flowers remained on the steps for about four weeks.  We were lucky enough to be here in time to witness this lovely spring tradition.

 

In the spring, pots of blooming azaleas are placed on the steps

Andddd......so I may have gone a tiny bit overboard with my photo-taking.  But the perfect blue skies, the dazzling pink and white blooms, and the elegant architecture and sweep of the stairways all made for lots of fine photo ops!

We were lucky that our trip coincided with the flowers

So enjoy this next series of images from Rome's Spanish Steps.

Blue sky and pink flowers

Such a stunning place!

Bottom of the Spanish Steps

Lotti gets up close with the azaleas 

Pretty in pink

Spring beauty

A very lovely scene

At the very bottom of the Spanish Steps, our group finally gathered.  The sheer amount of people crowding the lower plaza rivaled that of the Trevi Fountain.  A small fountain was located in the plaza's middle.  MG called it the "soap dish" but after a bit of post-trip research I determined it was called the "Fountain of the Longboat," created to resemble a sinking boat.  Another fun fact: the fountain was built by Pietro Bernini, the famous artist Gian Lorenzo Bernini's father.

Throngs of people in the street below

It was here at the base of the steps that we bid farewell to our two local guides.  The day's city tour was officially over.  MG said everyone was now free to make their way back to the hotel or explore the area further.

Sinking Boat Fountain below the steps

But.....this was a huge city.  I had absolutely no idea which direction our hotel was located.  Thankfully, MG took pity on all of us lost souls and said she'd accompany anybody wanting to return to the hotel.  She then led most of our group to the closest Metro station, and gave us a crash course on how to ride the Rome subway.  

Time for a ride on the Metro!

Although a bit apprehensive about riding public transportation in Rome (I'd been told that was where all the pickpocketers hung out) with MG's guidance it wasn't too bad.  Once inside the subway car all my tour-mates and I stood together in a group.  If there were any nefarious people nearby wanting to swipe something from our bags, I didn't notice.  In three short stops, we emerged back at Plaza Repubblica, and from there we all knew the rest of the way to our hotel.

Enjoying Guinness at an Irish pub in Rome

It was time for dinner and drinks!  Debbie, having a knack for finding the Irish pubs wherever we traveled, located one a few shorts blocks away.  Landing at an outdoor table, my friends and I raised glasses of Irish beer, toasting to a fine first day in Rome.

Cheers and salute!

Although Kim was still suffering from the cold I'd given her, she'd been a trooper throughout today's long walking tour.  But not long after dinner she started to fade.  So Kim and I returned our shabby hotel room to rest up for the next day's adventures.

Although overwhelming at first, I'd come to enjoy my first day in Rome.  We'd already visited a few well-known sights.  And there was more to come!  Tomorrow our group was scheduled to tour two of Rome's most iconic landmarks - the Coliseum and Roman Forum.  Photos and story in my next post!