Italy Day Eight - Around Lake Como

 (A multi-part recap of my mid-April to early May Italy trip.)

A stuffy nose kept me up half the night, rising every couple hours to clear my sinuses so I could breathe again.  But the good news was my cold seemed to be moving out of the nasal area.  The bad news, however was that it had now settled into my throat.  When I awoke that morning, it appeared I was losing my voice.  All my words came out as high-pitched squeaks, much to the amusement of friends Kim and Debbie.

Lake Como in the morning

But how could I stay upset when I was at Lake Como, one of the most gorgeous bodies of water in Italy?  With a bit of time to kill before breakfast, Kim and I took a walk along the wide pathway across from our hotel that followed the lakeshore.  Even with the lake in shadows, this area was still stunning (the sun had yet to crest the mountains along the eastern shoreline.)

Beautiful home near our hotel

Today our tour had planned a free day for everyone to explore the Lake Como area.  The lake's shoreline was dotted with several interesting villages which could be reached by train or ferry boat.  Our main tour guide (MG) gave us a rundown of suggested towns to visit and went over transportation options to get to these places.  The MG offered to accompany our group to the nearby village of Varenna and arranged for minibus transport from our hotel to the Lecco train station across the lake.  

Waiting at the Lecco train station

When our minibus arrived, I boarded and promptly smashed my head on the low ceiling while getting into my seat.  It hurt so bad I sat down and cradled my head, feeling sorry for myself.  First not getting much sleep the night before, then losing my voice, and now this.  Today wasn't getting off to a good start at all!

Here comes our train!

Fortunately the pain in my head subsided quickly, and by the time we'd completed the 10-minute ride to Lecco, I was feeling a bit better.  Our group deboarded the bus and followed our guide to the busy train platform.  Our MG handed out tickets and explained the basics of riding the trains here in Italy.  For such a small town, the Lecco train station was a busy place, with many trains coming and going.  After a bit of a wait, the train to Varenna pulled up and we all piled inside.

 

Walking into Varenna from the train station

The train cars were packed with people, likely locals going to work in the neighboring towns.  Despite the crowded conditions, Kim and I located a seat together and sat down to enjoy the short 20-minute ride.  I found the train to be clean and the other passengers polite.  An overhead readerboard announced the next stop, and so as long as you paid attention, navigating was easy.  However it appeared none of the trains were on time - that's Italy for you.  

Down steep, narrow steps

At the Varenna train station our group deboarded on the far side of multiple railroad tracks.  How to get across?  No problem, the place provided an underground tunnel that took passengers safely around the hazard to the station building itself.  (I thought this was quite ingenious!)

Heading towards Varenna harbor

Once the group reassembled our MG took off at a fast walk, leading us to the Varenna harbor.  We climbed down a few steep stairways, past faded buildings, interesting local restaurants, and a nearly dry drainage canal lined with stunted trees.

Our first glimpse of Lake Como

Near the end of this canal, a short pedestrian bridge spanned the gap, connecting our walkway to a large square fronting Lake Como.  The bridge was full of people, cell phone cameras held high, attempting to get that perfect Instagram selfie with a Lake Como backdrop.  Our MG groaned and told us the bridge was always full of influencers.  MG directed everyone to cross anyway, squeezing around the crowd, and suggested we photobomb the influencers.  (Apparently that's what MG loved to do when visiting Varenna.)  You'll be proud of me, I walked across this bridge and didn't snap one image - mostly because there were too many people in the way.  (However I'm sure I ended up in a few people's pictures!)

 

The lakefront square was lovely

Past the selfie bridge, our group walked across a large piazza fronting Lake Como.  It was landscaped nicely with a few shade trees and scattered flowerpots.  

Photo time!

At the piazza's far end, we all stopped to get photos of a fantastic view of Lake Como, looking across its expansive blue waters to the towering mountains on the other side.

One of many ferries serving towns along Lake Como

Several ferry boats made trips across Lake Como, connecting the small villages dotting its shoreline.  I caught one such vessel with my camera as it approached Varenna's harbor.

Lakefront promenade

Then it was onward (Andiamo!) towards the town of Varenna's business district.  A wide promenade, cantilevered over the lake provided access between this piazza and the shops. 

Lots of scenic dining options!

Skirting a small harbor, with several boats anchored nearby, our group passed the tables of quite a few restaurants offering choice lakeside views while you dined.  Apparently tourism was the main industry here in Varenna.  I spotted plenty of eating establishments and hotels framing the harbor area.  I also learned this little village was a favorite place for weddings.  These ceremonies were now so popular and lucrative that the locals no longer accepted hotel reservations from tour groups such as ours.

Heading through town

After walking by a row of gift shops yet to open for the day, our route then turned away from the lake and in towards the town.  We climbed several steep stairways and wound through countless narrow alleys.  Our MG explained she was taking us to a nearby garden that was supposed to be spectacular.

Lots of narrow alleyways

Everyone hustled to keep with the MG's brisk walking pace.  After climbing one final staircase, we were led past a large public piazza with a bell tower an ancient church at one end.  The place looked intriguing, but not wanting to be left behind, I didn't linger.  Then our group followed a narrow street with an even narrower sidewalk until our guide stopped in front of a building perched on a bluff high above Lake Como.  This was the entrance to Villa Monastero, the famous garden MG had recommended.

Selfie in motion

Before departing and leaving us to fend for ourselves for the day, the MG casually mentioned that the Villa Monastero gardens charged an entrance fee.  That took everyone by surprise - the way our MG had talked about this place all morning, I assumed it was free.  Neither Kim, Debbie, nor I recalled our guide ever communicating to the group that we'd have to pay to enter - that is until we were standing on its doorstep.  (It was just one of many incidents on this trip that highlighted our MG's disorganization.)  However, the admission wasn't a huge amount, and we were here now, so my friends and I sucked it up and whipped out our credit cards.

Coffee break at Villa Monastero garden

And as it turned out, we were very glad we did.  The gardens turned out to be an absolute gem.  But first things first - all three of us needed to find a WC.  And then it was time for some coffee.

Gorgeous lake views

After paying our admission fee, my friends and I walked through a large building with a covered patio.  Perched high on the bluff, this patio had wonderful views of Lake Como.  Trouble was, it was full of people trying to capture a selfie or portrait of their friends against this backdrop.  We three ladies didn't even try to get a group photo, and instead continued down the wide, paved path leading downhill into the garden.

Wide paved path through the garden

The place was beautifully planted with many varieties of exotic trees.  Colorful beds of flowers lined our path.  A high rock wall, with sculpted stonework accents, rose on the uphill side of the path.  And on the other side, blue waters of Lake Como peeked between the foliage.

Looking across the lake to another village

Of course the WC's were located at the bottom of this path, quite a walk from the main entrance.  After finding the restroom, and then enjoying a sweet treat and cup of java at the garden's nearby cafe, my friends and I continued our exploration.

Influencers getting the perfect Instagram shot

The site of these lovely gardens was initially a convent, founded in the 12th century.  Although it was an important convent for many years, when the population of sisters declined significantly, the place was closed by the pope in 1567.  The entire estate was then purchased by a wealthy iron mining magnate in 1569, and this man transformed the humble convent into an impressive residence.  Another owner bought the villa in the 1890s and completed further renovations to the house and garden.  Finally in 1936, the current owners of the estate, the Milanese Di Marchi family from Switzerland, donated the entire property to the public, and it has been operated by the local government ever since.

Buildings hanging on the hillside

Not far from the cafe, a large plaza offered stunning lake views.  Large colorful flowerbeds decorated the middle section.  I noticed several young women, dressed in flowing white gowns, posing for photographs against this gorgeous setting.

This colorful flower garden was a popular photo spot

This seemed to be the chosen spot for the influencers, and my friends and I watched in amusement as these young ladies attempted to capture that perfect Instagram shot.

Lake views from the garden were incredible!

Moving on past the flower-filled plaza, the path paralleled the lakeshore, giving fantastic views of the lake and surrounding mountains.

 

Debbie striking a pose

And best of all, there were no influencers here!  

Mountains, lake and villages

Farther into the garden, the lakeside path narrowed

I later read that the Villa Monastero gardens were home to many rare native and exotic tree species - more than 900 botanical specimens.  I certainly noticed many interesting and different plants and tall trees during my walk down the length of the garden's 2 km shoreline path.

Loved these flowers

This place was a photographer's paradise!  I took copious images of everything  - the colorful flowerbeds, the tall trees, the unique shrubbery, the magnificent sculptures interwoven between the foliage.  And of course the marvelous lake views that were everywhere.  I felt fortunate to be here in the spring, when so many of the flowers were in bloom.  

So please enjoy these next several photographs.  I couldn't decide which ones to cull, so you get them all in one great big photo dump (sorry - not sorry!)

Lotti liked them too

Beautiful trellis

Kim being an influencer

Stunning purple blooms

Marvelous Lake Como views everywhere

Another popular photo spot

Influencers lining up for their selfies

Vibrant red roses

Building reflections

Prominent mountain across the lake

Colorful vines

Heading back to the entrance

More colorful flowers

The place had also refurbished the old house as a museum, but the gardens were so spectacular, my friends and I didn't bother to visit.  After spending most of the morning taking in this beautiful place, it was time to move on and see more of Varenna.

Loved these tall palm trees

Back out on the narrow street fronting the gardens, Kim, Debbie and I headed back the way we'd come earlier in the day.  Approaching the large plaza once again, I noticed the prominent church steeple and the nearby weathered stone church that we'd passed earlier.  Curious, I convinced my friends to have a look.

Mysterious arched doorway

A sign on the building facade announced this was the Chiesa di San Giorgio, a parish church dating back to the 13th century.  It always amazes me that in Europe, buildings this old are not only still standing but also very much still in use.

Ancient church steeple

My friends and I went inside, and found a simple, country church with the usual ornate altar and wooden pews.  Several frescoes were painted on the large pillars throughout the interior.  I later learned there were some very large frescoes painted on the walls, some dating back to 13th century.  I must've missed those, as we didn't spend very long inside the building (and I didn't appear to take any photos of them.)

Chiesa di San Giorgio

Church exterior adornment

Church interior

My friends and I were hungry and decided it was time to return to the harbor area and try one of those restaurants with beautiful lake views that we'd seen on this morning's hasty walk.  So we crossed through the church piazza, called Piazza San Giorgio by the way, and headed back towards the lake and harbor area.  I gaped at the weird, stubby trees framing this open square.  The trees looked like they had hands with short, thick fingers.  

Very weird trees in the church piazza

A patriotic Italian

Between the three of us, we remembered our morning's route in reverse and successfully navigated ourselves back to Varenna's retail area.  

Lake peek-a-boo between two buildings

Back at the harbor level, we stopped at one of the many viewpoints to grab a few photographs of this especially scenic town.  I loved all the brightly colored buildings.  All the villas appeared to be stacked on top of one another as they crept up the hillsides.  I later learned that strict preservation laws protect this village's historic charm.  Aesthetics are regulated - right down to the exterior paint colors of the buildings. 

Buildings stacked on top of each other

Colorful bushes

There were many alleys between buildings

There were no roads for wheeled vehicles in this old part of town, so access was via a series of steep, narrow pedestrian lanes called contrade.  I loved looking up each little alley we came upon.  There seemed to be all sorts of interesting sights - business signs, light posts, awnings, shutters, or shops displaying their wares.  And they made great photo subjects!

Lots of outdoor restaurants to choose from

My friends and I began to pass by a row of souvenir shops, now all open for business.  They sold the usual touristy merchandise - t-shirts, tote bags, refrigerator magnets, postcards, keychains, etc.  One place had a giant teddy bear sitting outside, which Lotti just had to get a picture with.

Lotti finds a friend

The shops here catered to tourists

Beyond the line of gift shops, we started to pass several eating establishments.  Now where should we get a drink and some food?  My friends and I walked by a few busy restaurants until coming upon one with several empty tables.  It had a lovely view across Lake Como.  We decided to give this place a try.

Time for lunch with a view!

By now it was nearing the noon hour.  The sun, high in the sky, had elevated temperatures considerably.  The first table we three ladies were seated at was partway in the sun.  It didn't take long for me (who had the nonshaded chair) to get overheated.  So we asked to move to another table that was totally under the building awnings.  Much better!

Lotti wants to take a photo too!

What a lovely setting for lunch!  Lake Como's blue waters were front and center with views extending across the harbor and to the mountains along the opposite shore.  The restaurant had placed several planters with bright pink petunias along the deck railing and they added a colorful contrast to this scene.

Colorful pink petunias

Ah, lunch spots didn't get any better!  My friends and I enjoyed cool drinks and a few light appetizers while watching boats glide across the lake.  This was paradise.

Salute!

However, paradise doesn't last forever.  After sitting content for an hour, the sun started moving, and our shady table slowly transitioned into full sunshine.  Things got toasty in a hurry.  Time to pay our bill and move on!

Another contrade

Upon exiting the restaurant, Kim, Debbie, and I decided to walk back along Varenna's scenic promenade, called Passerella by the locals.  We happened by an older American couple from Florida who asked us to take their picture.  After I'd snapped a few images, they offered to return the favor.  I handed the wife my cell phone.  As my friends and I lined up with Lake Como in the background, the lady's husband suddenly pulled up his shirt, flashing us with his large, hairy belly.  I guess that's one way to get your subjects to smile, but it wasn't a pleasant memory for any of us!

Posing by the heart-shaped sculpture at the harbor

After our weird photo session, my friends and I continued down the Passerella, me taking copious photos of many of the same views I'd seen that morning, but now in better light and from the other direction.  At one location along the red metal railing someone had fashioned a heart sculpture, where couples could take a romantic photograph.  However it was occupied by a group of women when we walked by....

Walking down the promenade

Varenna had a tiny harbor, just a short stretch of sloping concrete between the promenade and the ferry dock.  Several small boats were either anchored in the water or pulled up onto the concrete beach.  Varenna got it's start as a fishing village.  Two centuries ago, fisherman would drag their boats into this harbor and sell their catch to the locals.  But no one fishes here anymore, and the boats are now just for recreation.

Ferry leaving the Varenna harbor

We three ladies walked all the way past the ferry dock back to the first large piazza and selfie bridge.  Then, realizing we'd seen all there was to see of Varenna, decided to hop a boat across the lake to the town of Bellagio.  Our MG had provided everyone with a ferry pass, so we decided it was time to put this ticket to work.

Varenna's harbor was small but cute

By early afternoon the world had woken up, and Varenna was now full of tourists.  We found the Belliago ferry line to be extremely long.  However, what else could we do?  We didn't want to spend all our time exclusively in one town.  So my friends and I waited patiently in the sun with all the other tourists, just hoping we'd make it onto the boat.  We weren't entirely sure exactly when this ferry would depart - there were published schedules, but things weren't always on time.  

Boarding the ferry for Bellagio

After nearly 45 minutes waiting in the heat, the line finally began to move.  We shuffled behind the people in front of us, hoping the ferry didn't fill before it was our turn to board.  Luck was with us that day - my friends and I made it onto the ferry.  Since we were nearly the last ones to board, there weren't any seats left - but Kim did find a large spot on deck where all three of us could stand next to the starboard side.  Perfect place for photo taking!  Naturally, I was thrilled.

Anchors away!

As our ferry pulled away from the dock, my camera was clicking constantly.  Being out in the water gave me new perspectives of the Varenna shoreline with its colorful villas.  

So long, Varenna

Another passing ferry

The middle of Lake Como offered nice views of the surrounding mountain peaks.  Some still had little patches of snow on their summits.

Amazing mountain views from the lake's center

Although the boat ride was a bit windy, we were still in full sunshine.  It beat down on my friends and I mercilessly.  The top of my head started to get quite warm, and I was kicking myself for not bringing a hat.  However, I was able to improvise a makeshift "hat" by donning my sweatshirt hood.  It might've looked weird in this photo, but I prevented my part from getting sunburned.

Selfie!

Soon our boat neared the opposite shoreline.  We passed a small village with buildings climbing up the adjacent hillsides.  How in world did they build these structures, and how steep were the roads that accessed them?

Towns surrounding Lake Como crawled up the hillsides

Beyond the first village, our boat pulled nearer to the shore.  More colorful buildings came into view, and I realized this was the town of Bellagio.

Approaching Bellagio

After docking near what appeared to be the main street, our ferry quickly emptied, my friends and I part of this surging mass of humanity.  Exiting the boat, we followed the crowd along an avenue lined with fancy shops and hotels.

Getting ready to dock in Bellagio

I knew Bellagio was a famous casino in Las Vegas, but didn't realize until now that this swanky little village on Lake Como was probably its namesake.  Debbie mentioned that the actor George Clooney had a home somewhere on the lake, and we all secretly hoped for a celebrity sighting.  The best chances of spotting someone famous were likely here in this ritzy town.

Bellagio main street - very busy!

Yes, glitzy Bellagio was definitely an upgrade from the sleepy streets of Varenna.  But wow, was it busy!  Huge crowds of people filled the streets and shopping areas.  Cars and motorcycles darted down the roadways (no pedestrian streets here.)  And it was really hot.

Another view of main street

Following the main drag, we came upon a steep sidewalk taking visitors through a large shopping district.  My friends and I slowly trudged uphill, occasionally stopping to window shop when something caught our eyes.

Walking up a steep stairway lined with shops

The place was jam-packed with tourists.  It was hot, my cold was starting to wear me down, and I was tired of all the people.  I was ready for another cold drink in the shade along the lakeshore.

The main shopping district was packed

Passing by a wine shop, my friends and I ran into tour-mate Val, a nice lady who also happened to be from Portland.  Her husband Tom was really into wine, and had ducked inside the adjacent shop to check out the vino selection, while she waited outside.  Val really loved Lotti, so I had her pose for a photo with my little Swiss cow.

We ran into tour-mate Val, who posed for a photo with Lotti

Continuing on, at the top of this steep sidewalk was a flat street running perpendicular.  Following it a bit further, we came to an old church that didn't appear to be open.  There was a lot of auto and motorcycle traffic here, which none of us cared for.  And there didn't appear much else to see.  So my friends and I returned to the calmer lanes of the pedestrian shopping district.

Debbie points the way

Walking the opposite direction, we passed more shops selling upscale, expensive items.  While it was fun to window-shop, I didn't find anything that interested me.  After passing by another, larger church I suggested we find someplace to get a drink and a snack.  My friends, now as hot and tired as I was, were all for it.

More funky, narrow alleys

I spotted a few places that looked promising.  But Debbie and Kim wanted a restaurant with lake views, and led me back towards the water.  I wasn't thrilled about more walking, but in the end we found a beautiful dining area covered with a leafy pergola boasting stunning Lake Como views.  The place wasn't busy when we first arrived, but it didn't take long for the tables to fill.

Small church

All three of us ordered alcoholic beverages of choice, and relaxed in the shade.  After walking around town in the hot sun, it was nice to sit and rest.  Boats of all sizes motored by.  The lake views were even better than the ones we'd had in Varenna.  Oh, this was the life!  

People sitting in a piazza

That morning our MG had outlined a couple of options for returning to our hotel in Malgrate.  We could take the ferry back to Varenna and catch the train to Lecco, a reverse of this morning's journey.  Or there was a direct ferry leaving Bellagio at 5 pm that would travel straight to Malgrate.  Because no one told us otherwise, we assumed our ferry pass was good for unlimited rides to any city along Lake Como.  However, a message from our MG later that afternoon informed us all that there would be an additional charge to take this special 5 pm ferry.  Again, my friends and I were a bit frustrated that this wasn't mentioned earlier that morning, when people were making their plans.  (Yet another example of our MG's lack of organization.) 

Basilica of St. Giacomo

After a relaxing couple of hours at our new favorite lakeside restaurant, we noticed the crowd starting to thin.  Kim saw a sign on the entrance that stated the place was closing soon.  Seeing it was time to move on, we reluctantly paid our bill and headed back to the ferry docks.  My friends and I had lingered so long at his lovely little bistro we'd missed the 5 pm ferry.  But we'd already decided to just ride the ferry back to Varenna and hop a train to Lecco.  The trip wouldn't cost us any additional money, and having done it just this morning, we already knew what to expect. 

The perfect spot to enjoy a drink!

So my friends and I hopped on the next ferry to Varenna.  I'd taken so many photos all day that I was totally pooped out.  So I just sat and watched the scenery pass by.  (Can you believe it?)  Upon landing in Varenna, we retraced our steps back to the train station.  There was a bit of confusion as to which platform the Lecco train would stop, but a helpful employee pointed us in the right direction.  After returning to Lecco, we still had a 20 minute walk through town and across the lake to our hotel.  (No minibus this time.)  Following directions on Google maps, Kim and Debbie navigated through busy city streets, past an interesting farmer's market, dodging a bunch of road construction, until we finally walked across the bridge spanning Lake Como.  It had been a long journey, and I was never so glad to see our hotel!

Lotti thinks so too

Although we'd snacked throughout the day, my friends and I were now hungry.  So after dropping our stuff at the hotel, we walked across the street to find a bite to eat.  We spotted tour-mates Ward and Sally seated at a nearby restaurant and they graciously invited the three of us to join them.  Wanting to try something different I ordered a seafood pasta dish.  It was good but surprisingly spicy!  Apparently Italians like spicy pasta and seafood - it isn't all tame marinara sauce.

Spicy seafood pasta for dinner

Despite still fighting the crud, I'd had a good time.  We'd lucked out with the weather yet again, enjoying another dry, sunny day.  I was fortunate to see this stunning lake under blue skies.  The two towns we'd explored were charming each in their own way.  (But sadly there were no George Clooney sightings to report - maybe next time!)

Tomorrow my tour was on the move again, this time to Florence, home of the Renaissance and some of the most well-known artwork in the world.  Stay tuned!