Yellowstone NP - Upper Geyser Basin

One goes to Yellowstone National Park to see many things - wildlife, unique landscapes, beautiful scenery.  But most of all people visit for the geysers.  Yellowstone is home to more than 10,000 hydrothermal features, 500 of which are geysers.  That's about half of the world's geysers - the largest concentration of active geysers on earth.

So yes, you're going to see more geysers in this post.....

Steaming geysers in the morning chill

After spending the night at Old Faithful Inn, directly adjacent to the most famous geyser of them all, Kim and I awoke and after a quick breakfast hustled outside to watch Old Faithful erupt for a second time.

Old Faithful, pre-eruption

Although it was early June, the morning was quite chilly, causing lots of steam to emit from the nearby geothermal features.

Old Faithful, building up pressure

This time I chose a viewing position more conducive to better photographic light.  After waiting about 10 minutes past the predicted eruption time, Old Faithful began spewing water, building up to a tall column against the morning's blue sky.

Full eruption height

The show was just as magnificent as it had been the previous evening!

Lovely steam cloud against the blue sky

Now on to see more of the geyser basin surrounding Old Faithful.  After checking out of our room, and packing up my car (luckily no bison adjacent to it this morning!) we left it parked in the lot and embarked on a walk around the entire area.

Castle Geyser

There's a large concentration of geothermal features north and west of Old Faithful called the Upper Geyser Basin.  It's about a 3-mile walk to see most of them.  But Kim and I had all morning, so we set off to visit as many as we could.

Crested Pool

Beginning on a  paved path near the parking lot, we first came to the tall cone of the Castle Geyser.  A very large, impressive structure made of the mineral geyserite, the rock layers formed stair-step terraces down its sides.  Although it erupts on average every 14 hours, the Castle Geyser was only steaming heavily that morning.

Round Spring 

Kim and I had just passed the Castle Geyser when we met a woman traveling the opposite direction.  She warned us that she'd just seen a bear.  As we looked past the next hot springs, sure enough, Kim glimpsed a black bear running away from where we stood.  I quickly tried to switch to my zoom lens, but by the time I had my camera ready, the bruin was long gone.

Morning view of Firehole River

Our first bear sighting in Yellowstone!  We took this as a good omen as Kim and I continued our walk along the geyser basin.  First past an interesting feature called the Crested Pool, whose water was so hot it prevented most bacterial growth, resulting in amazingly clear, blue water.  Then past another blue hot spring called Round Spring.  The path followed the Firehole River, occasionally giving nice views of this non-hydrothermal water feature.

Grotto Geyser

Next on our geyser agenda was the very unusual Grotto Geyser.  It had a very tall, funny-shaped cone formation, thanks to lots of geyserite.  I later read it was one of the more predictable geysers in the park, erupting about every six hours.  When we first passed by, it was just steaming a lot, so much so that the cone was hard to see.

 

Grotto Geyser pumping out a lot of steam

Past Grotto Geyser, we wandered by a few smaller, unnamed hot pools.  

Unnamed geyser

There was a large barren area containing several rusty-colored hot pools.  Our map noted this was the "Chain Lakes."

Chain Lakes

A small flow of hot, siliceous water created a colorful slope at the lake's edge.

Colorful outflow

Our path crossed over the Firehole River, where I was surprised to see two fisherman wading into the waters.  I didn't think people were allowed to venture off the paths!  Obviously the river itself wasn't hot enough to hurt people (or fish), and it appeared that fly fishing was allowed.  Steam was venting from the bank nearby, and it didn't look like a safe place to me.

Fisherman in Firehole River

When I was a kid, my family visited Yellowstone twice, and I remember my favorite geothermal feature was a brilliantly blue hot spring named Morning Glory Pool.  I liked the pool so much I even took a few really terrible photos of it (back in the film days when you rationed your pictures).  So when I saw Morning Glory Pool on the map of Upper Geyser Basin, I told Kim this was one feature we were definitely visiting.

Morning Glory Pool

The pool was located at the end of a long trail.  A wooden boardwalk encircled about half of its perimeter.  I was surprised to see Morning Glory Pool looked much smaller than I remembered.  And it wasn't nearly as vivid either.

One of my favorites!

I later read that this colorful feature has become a victim of vandalism.  Over the years park visitors have thrown tons of coins, trash, rocks, and logs into the pool.  The debris became embedded into the sides and vent of the spring, reducing water circulation and causing water temperatures to fall.  The cooler water allowed orange and yellow bacteria to thrive, changing the water color from its lovely blue.  (Sigh....this is why we can't have nice things!)

Riverside Geyser - Can you spot the buffalo?

Although from Morning Glory Pool Kim and I could've walked farther to explore Biscuit Basin, it was another mile away.  There were quite a few geysers yet to see on our return trip, so we turned around and worked our way back towards Old Faithful.  On a short detour from the main path, we looped over to take a gander at Riverside Geyser, on the banks of the Firehole River.  We spied a buffalo sitting peacefully in the grass right above its steaming vent.

Grotto Geyser erupting

Our route again passed by Grotto Geyser, and this time we got to see it erupt.  A small plume of water shot into the sky again and again, giving me many opportunities to photograph the sight.

From here our paved path transitioned to a wooden boardwalk, a familiar feature throughout Yellowstone National Park.  Designed to allow visitors to view the thermal features safely (as long as they stayed on the boardwalks.)

The eruption continues...

Next up on our geyser basin tour was the appropriately named Giant Geyser.  It had a huge geyserite cone over its vent that was merely steaming.

Giant Geyser

Some of the larger and more regular geysers had eruption predictions posted on signs by park employees.  However, in the case of the Giant Geyser, the date of the last eruption was the only data noted.  Apparently eruptions from this geyser have become erratic, thus the reason for the lack of a timeline.  I did later read that the Giant Geyser is capable of spectacular eruptions, reaching up to 250 feet in height and lasting over an hour.  Wouldn't that be something to see?

Some of the larger geysers had eruption times posted

Sadly the Giant Geyser was not in eruption mood that day, so Kim and I continued down the boardwalk to the next thermal feature.

Where to go next?

Next, we passed by two lovely hot springs, named Chromatic Pool and Beauty Pool.

Chromatic Pool

Apparently these two springs are somehow linked, because during energy shifts, the level of one pool rises and the other lowers.

Another view of Chromatic Pool

Another fun fact:  Beauty Pool apparently shows its brightest colors during higher water temperatures.

Another view of Beauty Pool

It certainly was a beauty!  And Beauty Pool's waters must've been very hot that day because it displayed many shades of brilliant colors.

This wins the prize for dumbest geyser name....

I'm not sure who named all geysers in Yellowstone, or how the names came to be.  Some are pretty self-explanatory (such as Giant Geyser, Beauty Pool, etc.)  So when I passed by one little geyser named the "Economic Geyser" I thought to myself "What's the story behind that?"  I'm sorry but in my opinion that's gotta be the dumbest geyser name ever!

We didn't stick around to watch this one erupt

Moving on.....The nearby Grand Geyser was one of the thermal features with posted eruption estimates.  It had the distinction of being the tallest predictable geyser in the world.  I'm told an eruption lasts 9-12 minutes and can reach heights of 200 feet.  But since an eruption wasn't predicted until midafternoon, we weren't about to wait around half the day to see it.

Pretty blue pool - but forgot the name!

Not all the thermal features had signs adjacent to their pools.  There were several tiny, colorful hot springs that appeared to be unnamed.  (In light of the "Economic Geyser" debacle, maybe the park service employees ran out of names)

The geyser wasn't much to look at but I loved it's name!

Speaking of names, I didn't get a photo of this geyser, but it's sign made me laugh!

Interesting dead tree roots 

The forest fringes surrounding the Upper Geyser Basin had quite a few dead or dying trees.  I'm assuming when the hot water gets too close to their roots it kills the tree.  There were a few gnarled, grey-barked pines that made interesting photo subjects.

This little geyser was putting on quite a show!

Kim and I approached the area nearest to Old Faithful, a concentration of thermal features nicknamed "Geyser Hill."  There were all kinds of steaming vents and boiling springs to gawk at - and photograph!

Spasmodic Geyser

One was called Spasmodic Geyser - I'd love to know how it earned that name!

Sawmill Geyser

Some of the geysers had tiny round mineral formations around their perimeters.  Not sure why these formed and not a tall cone - I guess more research is in order.

Lion Group

A larger geyser on "Geyser Hill," the Lion Group consisted of four different geysers, all named with a lion theme.  The Lion, marked by a tall cone, is the largest, and will shoot water 70 feet in the air when erupting.  And apparently it makes a loud roaring sound when it begins an eruption.  

Another look at the Lion Group

Another lovely blue hot spring, Heart Spring was very photogenic.

Heart Spring

Since now we were not far from Old Faithful, Kim and I noticed the boardwalks were getting more crowded.  We'd kind of enjoyed having the far-away geysers mostly to ourselves, so sometimes waiting for a spot to view a thermal feature took some getting used to.

Cute little hot pools

Beehive Geyser

With a rounded cone, the Beehive Geyser lived up to its name.  Apparently the Beehive's eruptions put on quite a show, projecting tall water columns.  After we'd walked to the far end of the boardwalk, this little stinker decided to erupt.  I got a glimpse of the water plume from afar.

Interesting colors and shapes in this outflow

The colored minerals around the geysers and hot springs were so interesting.  A lot of them were an orangish shade and deposited in all kinds of shapes.  Also very photogenic!

Plume Geyser

On the high point of Geyser Hill, I looked over and could see the barren plain surrounding Old Faithful.  Thinking it would be neat to see it erupt from this vantage, I kept a close eye on its smoking cone as I continued along the boardwalk.

Anemone Geyser

The Anemone Geyser looked like it had a bad case of acne.

Water spurts from Sponge Geyser

The Sponge Geyser was really spurting - not tall bursts, but very consistent.  (And again, another weird geyser name!)

Old Faithful erupting from afar

While at the Sponge Geyser, I looked across the hill and noticed Old Faithful was erupting.  Thanks to my zoom lens, I was able to get some photos of the event.

Colorful stream bank

Kim and I finished up our long morning of geyser exploration crossing the Firehole River back towards Old Faithful Inn.  On top of the riverbank was a tiny geothermal called Chinese Spring.  Its flow of hot water and minerals had killed all the surrounding trees and created a colorful white and orange striped outflow into the river.

Chinese Spring

It was now past noon and we were both hungry and quite geysered-out.  Time to find some lunch and then go explore more of the park.  Which I'll recap in the next post.

Hope I haven't bored you too much with all the geysers!  The next post I promise I'll have photos of other things I saw in Yellowstone NP.

Yellowstone NP - Norris Geyser Basin and Old Faithful

Are you ready for some geyser photos?  Like a whole bunch?  I hope so, 'cause this post is full of them!

Norris Geyser Basin

Continuing from where I left off in my last post, after spending the morning at Yellowstone NP's Mud Volcano and then the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, my friend Kim and I headed to Canyon Village to find lunch.  After refueling and buying some souvenirs from the nearby shops, we were back in the car and off to see more of the park.

Porcelain Basin overlook

From long-ago trips to Yellowstone, I remembered really enjoying the Norris Geyser Basin.  Since we were nearby, that became the next stop on our day's agenda.

All kinds of hot springs and geysers to see

The hottest, oldest, and most dynamic of Yellowstone's geothermal areas, Norris Geyser Basin is a must-see for anyone visiting the park.  Home to 193 named geysers (4th highest number of geysers of the geothermal areas in Yellowstone) this unique area sits on the intersection of two fault lines.  In 1959 Norris Geyser Basin experienced an earthquake measuring 7.4 on the Richter scale.  Unlike other geyser basins in the park, the majority of the waters at Norris are acidic rather than alkaline, including some very rare acid geysers.

An extensive boardwalk system kept tourists safe

Although this area is extremely popular, Kim and I snagged a parking spot in the main lot.  As a matter of fact, parking spots were plentiful on this Sunday mid-afternoon in early June.  I gulped at the parking lot signs warning of potential vehicle paint and glass damage when the Steamboat Geyser erupts.  But I decided to roll the dice (I later learned that this geyser erupts infrequently - more on that later in this post.)

Ledge Geyser

Norris Geyser Basin has two distinct areas - Porcelain Basin and Back Basin.  The former is a large barren area with lots of colorful springs, while the latter is heavily wooded.  Where to start first?  Although Back Basin was the longer loop, our first glimpse was an overview of the wide-open Porcelain Basin.  The area looked so intriguing, Kim and I found ourselves pulled towards its boardwalks.

Interesting colors coming out of this geyser

Walking down a steep hill, we passed steaming Ledge Geyser.  Past this little puffer, we came upon the first of many boardwalks providing tourists safe passage over these hot, acidic geothermal areas.

The boardwalk crossed this colorful stream

Our boardwalk of choice led Kim and I into a large barren area.  The soil was predominantly a whitish color, due to a mineral named siliceous sinter (also called geyserite), derived from the thermal activity.  There were small pools of water everywhere, and one large stream ran through, and under, the boardwalk itself.  This channel was an unusual green hue.  Although the water temperature here was above the boiling point, a lime-green algae called Cyanidium thrived in these hot, acidic waters, creating this otherworldly color.  Other microscopic organisms and bacteria also produced unique water hues.

Unique green hue due to Cyanidium algae

Kim and I continued along the looped boardwalk trail, past round eerie blue pools, more steam-spouting geysers, and bubbling water features.

Dead trees poisoned by the acidic springs

The entire area was devoid of trees, the surrounding forest killed off by the high water temperatures and acidic geysers.

Another great overview of Porcelain Basin

On a clear day, one can get a nice view of the nearby snow-capped mountains.  But today the skies were cloudy.  As a matter of fact, Kim and I noticed a bank of dark clouds beginning to drift in.

I'm having too much fun taking pictures!

No matter, we were here to see all the geysers!  Kim and I continued on, hoping the rain would hold off until we were finished with our sightseeing.

Three blue pools

After completing the Porcelain Basin boardwalk loop, we noticed another elevated boardwalk heading away from Ledge Geyser.  It led to a stark, white hill known as Porcelain Springs.

Looking towards Porcelain Springs

An interesting sight, this white mound had several geysers rising from its plain, as evidenced by numerous steam plumes.

Porcelain Springs

Surely not something you see every day!

The water from this lake is creeping into the forest

On our way back from Porcelain Springs, I passed by this little pond that was slowly overtaking a grove of trees.  The water was a murky blue-green, probably boiling hot and full of minerals and acids.  I assumed those poor trees weren't long for this world.

A very colorful sight

Another overview of Porcelain Basin.  More interesting colors - a bit of research determined the rusty orange color was due to an algae called cyanobacteria.

The standard warning sign

Because the threat of boiling hot water and acid isn't enough to deter some people, the National Park Service had several warning signs posted on the boardwalk railings.  Despite this, every year I hear stories of some dumb tourist who wanders onto the fragile surface of these geothermal areas.  Sadly, there's always someone who ends up falling into a geyser and getting cooked.

Emerald Spring

Our trip through Porcelain Basin left Kim and I thirsty and in need of a restroom (despite the cloud cover it was a warm day!)  Since the only bathroom was all the way back at the parking lot, we took a break and I ran back to my car for some water bottles.  

Steamboat Geyser

Our needs taken care of for the moment, it was now time to explore the other part of Norris Geyser Basin - the area known as Back Basin.  A bit longer of a loop - 1.5 miles - Kim and I hoped we could cover the distance before we got rained on.

The first geyser we came to on this trail was the famous Steamboat Geyser.  Having the distinction of being the world's tallest active geyser, it throws water up to 300 feet in the air during a major eruption.  So much water is expelled, it rushes back into the geyser vents carrying mud, sand and rock which are again shot skyward.  The recirculating water ends up coating everything with a layer of silica.  Now I understood the reason for the parking lot warning signs!

People waiting for Steamboat Geyser to erupt

However, this geyser also erupts very infrequently.  Although it's been known to go 50 years between blasts, the Steamboat geyser began an eruptive period in 2018.  Since then eruptions have been much more frequent, ranging between 5 and 77 day intervals.  Although the day we visited geyser was emitting steam clouds, it didn't look like an eruption was imminent.  At the lower viewing platform, Kim and I noticed a group of people seated in chairs.  Another tourist told us these people were waiting for the Steamboat Geyser to erupt.  Apparently these people spend entire days sitting here just watching.  Much more dedicated than I'll ever be!

(On a side note, the date of this visit was June 2nd and about a week later I read that the Steamboat geyser had a major eruption on June 9th.  I hope some of these people we saw waiting got to see it!)

Looking down on Cistern Spring

Located downhill from the Steamboat Geyser was a small blue pool named Cistern Spring.  I later read that this hot spring has a connection with it's large geyser neighbor.  When Steamboat's eruptions are less frequent, Cistern Spring's water temperature and discharge increase.  But this little spring drains after Steamboat Geyser's major eruptions. 

Colorful Echinus Geyser

Further down the boardwalk was an especially colorful pool of water named Echinus Geyser.  Echinus has the distinction of being the world's largest acid-water geyser.  The waters here are nearly as acidic as vinegar, with a PH ranging from 3.3 to 3.6.  In past years, eruptions were frequent, but for the last several years they have become extremely rare.

Another look at Echinus Geyser

Downstream of the main pool, colorful water rivulets channeled through the soil.  It was a lovely sight. Echinus became one of my favorite geysers in Back Basin.

Crater Spring

Along the boardwalk Kim and I wandered, me snapping images of every geyser we came across.  Luckily most of the geysers had small logs with name plaques in front so months later, when putting this blog post together, I could remember which photo was which!

Surprise!  Wildflowers growing amidst the geysers 

In this desolate, acid-killed environment I was surprised to see a patch of pink wildflowers growing next to the boardwalk.  This tough little plant was apparently resistant to all the heat and acidity. 

Kim was having a great time

Despite threatening skies, so far nothing wet had yet fallen from the sky.  But the clouds overhead were looking mighty dark.  Kim and I pressed on, quickly trying to cover the remainder of the basin before the weather changed.

Mystic Spring

I really loved all the different colors of the various springs and geysers.  Apparently colorless or yellow water indicates the hottest temperatures, while oranges, browns and greens have cooler waters (but probably still boiling!)

Beautiful blue hot spring 

This one was so blue and clear!  Sadly this was one of the few pools that I neglected to take a photo of the sign.  (Looking on the map of Back Basin there is one feature called "Dishwater Spring."  Maybe it's that one?)

My favorite name for a Geyser

This little geyser called "Puff 'n Stuff" wins my vote for the best name of all!  It was certainly my favorite.

Animals obviously don't mind the hot water

Although for safety reasons, people aren't allowed to step off the boardwalks, the local animals seem to wander through without issue.  I spotted several bison and elk tracks in the mud and a huge poo pile next to one of the hot springs.  Since there weren't any dead bodies around, I guess the animals know enough to stay away from the hot water.

Three small hot pools

Kim and I rounded the last corner - only a few more geysers to see!  Would we make it before the rain?

Veteran Geyser

A colorful hump of orange sulfur deposits framed the Veteran Geyser's vent.  

The sulfur mound was interesting

It's pond was a sickly orange-ish color.  Although the sulfur formations were interesting, the icky outflow wasn't.

I think this one was Monarch Geyser

We passed the colorful Monarch Geyser and then hustled by the steaming, bubbling Minute Geyser, which was very active that day.

Bubbling Minute Geyser

Kim and I had done it!  We'd visited all the geysers in the Back Basin.  Now to return to our car in the parking lot - about a half mile walk away.  We'd just started up hill from our last geyser when our luck finally ran out.  The skies opened up into a massive downpour.  The day being so warm, we'd both left our rain jackets in the car.  Luckily I had my camera bag to protect my camera, but without any jackets Kim and I got totally soaked.

Rainstorm aftermath

When we finally made it to the car, Kim took a funny pic of our soaked selves.  We looked like a couple of drowned rats!

Old Faithful Inn

Now the hour was approaching 5 o'clock, and it was time to make our way to our lodging for the evening.  We'd splurged and reserved a room at the Old Faithful Inn.  From Norris it was 30 miles away, but on the park roads it took nearly an hour to get there.  It didn't help that we encountered road construction between Madison Junction and the Old Faithful area.  Although our inbound route wasn't too bad, the opposite direction heading out of the park was backed up for several miles.

The Inn had a huge stone fireplace

I love National Park lodges and the Old Faithful Inn had all the features one would expect and more.  A tall stone fireplace and chimney dominated the building's center.  Decorative log railings encircled all three levels.  Comfortable wooden chairs were placed everywhere. 

The decor was "National Park rustic"

After unloading our stuff I took my car to search for a parking space in the large, but crowded parking lot.  After driving to nearly the end, I finally spotted an open spot.  A man and young boy happened to be standing in the slot I was trying to claim.  Seeing my approach, they reluctantly moved over but stayed beside the adjacent vehicle.  I thought "Boy that's really rude."  Upon exiting my car, I looked up and saw a huge buffalo standing right in front of the car beside mine.  The man and his kid had been in my parking space, using the adjacent vehicle as a shield from the huge beast.

Lots of seating!

After settling our things in our room, Kim and I hustled out to the nearby cafeteria to get some dinner before they closed.  (The place closed the ridiculously early hour of 7 o'clock!)  We paid a small fortune for a truly terrible hamburger and fries.

Crowd waiting for Old Faithful to erupt

Of course one of the perks to staying at the Old Faithful Inn was that it was a stone's throw away from Yellowstone National Park's most famous geyser - Old Faithful itself.  One of the most regular and predictable geysers in the park, since 2000 Old Faithful has erupted every 44 minutes to 2 hours.  After dinner, we consulted the visitor center for the next predicted eruption time.

Thar she blows!

About 20 minutes prior to the estimated eruption time, Kim and I wandered out to the edge of this most famous geyser.  Encircled by a wide boardwalk with seating in some areas, the place was already filling up with tourists.  We stood off to one side and waited.....and waited.  The predicted eruption time came and went.  And yet we still waited.....  The geyser shot up a small stream of water that got our hopes up, but then it stopped.  Kim and I joked that Old Faithful wasn't living up to its name.

This geyser puts on a show

But finally, nearly 25 minutes past it's predicted time, water began bubbling to the surface again.  Was this another false alarm?  After a few initial spurts, a long column of water rose into the sky.  It was finally happening!

If you've ever watched a geyser erupt, it's a awe-inspiring sight.  It's amazing to think there's enough pressure under the earth to force a column of water to rise over one hundred feet into the air.  The eruption went on for a good two minutes.  Kim videoed the entire thing on her phone, while I attempted to photograph the geyser in action.  Not only was I at a bad angle to catch the water plume, it was near sunset and the light was terrible.  But I edited a few photos to include here so my readers could see it.

Beautiful clouds in the sky

After the show was over, Kim and I finished the evening enjoying a beer in Old Faithful Inn's lounge.  We sat next to a couple from New York and it was interesting chatting with them about their travels in the area.  So far that day we'd met people from all over.  Yellowstone NP is known world-wide and attracts quite a diverse crowd.

But finally the beer and the long day took it's toll, and we retired to our nice, but expensive, room for the evening.  Tomorrow Kim and I would spend another day touring the park, including all the geysers in the Old Faithful area.  To be continued in my next post....