University Falls in the Fall

October brings an abundance of autumn color to Oregon's Coast Range forests.  However, with so many great leaf-peeping hikes around Portland, this area sometimes drops off my radar. 

 

A big a%$ leaf maple!

 

The Coast Range, full of grand, mossy fir forests, copious swordferns, and acres of deciduous trees, is a beautiful place to visit.  But it's hard to love - overrun with noisy motorized recreational traffic and target shooters, and riddled with clearcuts from logging activities, I often avoid hiking here.

 

Yellow explosion

However, the last Friday in October I was looking for a nearby trail with good fall colors.  After waiting out a morning rainstorm, I wasn't interested a long drive.  Then I remembered the University Falls Trail in the nearby Coast Range.  Having visited last fall, I remembered it had good "bang for your buck" autumn leaf color.

 

Old stump from logging days

 

This year it's been difficult to predict peak leaf color.  Some places have had foliage turn early, others have lagged later than usual, while a few places had the leaves drop without much color at all (my theory blames the September wildfire smoke).  But as I pulled into the University Falls trailhead parking area, the adjacent forest was lit up in brilliant shades of yellow.  So far so good!

 

Sunlit yellow leaves

I like to hike the loop starting at the Gravelle Brothers Trail.  It wanders behind a state highway maintenance yard before diving into the forest.  Beginning my trek on the trail proper I noticed lots of huge leaves from nearby Big-leaf maples (or as I like to call them, Big-a$% Leaf maples) littering the ground, and I couldn't resist snapping a few selfies to show their scale.

 

Colorful forest

 

The path dived downhill through an area of intense yellow leaves.  Backlit by the sun, they lit up the forest and brightened my mood.

Leaf-lined trail

The first two miles delivered autumn hues in spades!  Yellow and orange leaves accented the mossy fir trees.  It was so beautiful, forward progress moved at a snail's pace as I tried to capture it all with my camera.

Lovely forest

 

From last year's hike, I remembered finding the best leaf colors at the creek crossing.  The trail intersects with the Devils Lake Fork of the Wilson River and the surrounding area is resplendent with deciduous trees of many varieties.

 

Old mossy tree

 

And on this day it delivered once again.  Not only lovely yellow and orange fall colors, there was also the added beauty of red vine maple leaves mixed in.

Splashes of red amidst the yellow

 

All leaf color appeared to be at it's peak.  I think this was my favorite spot of the entire hike.

Devils Lake Fork of the Wilson River

 

After taking several images of the leafy beauty, I climbed uphill away from the creek, skirted a clear-cut before diving back into dense, mossy forest once again.

Lots of vine maple by the creek

 

The forest here was magical.  Trees draped heavily with furry moss, they looked like something out of a fairy tale.  Large, green ferns lined the forest floor.  This is the Coast Range scenery that I love.

Lovely red vine maple

 

Since I was hiking the day before Halloween, some of the trees reminded me of ghostly bodies with spooky outstretched arms.

Forest full of mossy trees

 

Want to get into the Halloween spirit?  Just hike through a dark forest like this one.

I love coastal forests

 

Popping out of the forest, my trail bisected an ugly clearcut (ugh!) before once again entering the woods.  Leaving the clearcut behind, I glimpsed a few spots of orange from left-behind bushes glowing through the trees.

Colors peeking through the trees

Then I followed the path downhill for a half mile to my main destination - University Falls.

Eroded tree roots

This waterfall is a hidden gem.  Nestled in a forested canyon, it's a surprisingly tall cascade, dropping 100 feet over a rocky cliff.

University Falls

 

There was some great green color from adjacent foliage reflecting in the creek directly below the falls.

Green reflections below the falls

As is my routine, I snapped a bunch of moving water pics before taking a short snack break.  (Photos first, then food!)

Water in motion

After my waterfall break, I continued the loop by climbing out of the canyon, past another ugly clearcut.  The loggers had cleared an entire hillside but left one lone tree remaining.  Why??

Ugly clearcut (with one tree remaining-why?)

The rest of the loop wasn't quite as scenic, nor as colorful, so I was able to make up for lost photography time.  That, and about halfway to my car I began to hear gunshots echoing through the forest.  Not knowing the location of the source nor the character of the people shooting (were they responsible hunters having a safe target practice or beer-chugging rednecks?) was quite unsettling and caused me to quicken my pace.

Bright yellow leaves

The gunshots continued for most of the final two hours it took to cover the remaining 5 miles.  (I kept thinking how can these people afford to shoot off so much ammunition?)  It was anything but relaxing, hustling through the forest, hoping the shooters weren't nearby nor aiming towards the trail.  I ran into a couple of older ladies out mushroom hunting who also weren't happy about the loud disruptions.

Forest of gold

Finally I came to the last large hill climbing through another clearcut.  Then it was a short downhill ramble back to my car.  Although by now the shooting had finally stopped, I was more than ready to be done with this hike.

I was happy to have hit the Coast Range fall colors at their peak.  University Falls was gushing and lovely as always.  However, I could have done without the endless sounds of target practice in the woods.  But if you're going to hike in Oregon's Coast Range, you gotta take the good with the bad.  Looking back a month later I'd say that seeing the coastal forest dressed in spectacular fall splendor was worth it.

Just Another Coastal Sunset....

It had been awhile since I'd visited the Oregon Coast.  Only a short hour's drive from home, I really had no excuse for this long absence.  So two weeks ago I decided to remedy things. 

Foamy seas

 

My favorite weather forecaster was predicting a beautiful sunset that day.  Having missed out on several brilliant skyshows recently, I felt the need to finally capture one.  So I texted my neighbor and photographic genius Cheri and suggested we head west to photograph sunset on the coast.

 

Wild wave show on the jetty

 

Although I'd initially suggested Cannon Beach (can't go wrong with Haystack Rock), this was a wildly popular place, and therefore usually crowded.  Cheri suggested a quieter alternative, nearby Rockaway Beach.

 

Sad reminders of the ocean's dangers

 

On our way to Rockaway Beach, Cheri and I passed through the town of Tillamook, and then headed north by Tillamook Bay.  A popular place for fisherman and crabbers, we stopped on the north jetty to watch huge waves roll over the rocky breakwater.  It was quite the show!

 

Wish I knew the story behind these crosses

 

I noticed four crosses had been placed in between the jetty's rocky surface.  Names and dates were painted on each one, and three of the crosses bore the same date of death.  I didn't know the story behind these crosses, but assumed they must have been due to some tragic boating accident.  Sad reminders of the ocean's dangers.

 

 

 

 

Cheri is in position for sunset

 

After lingering around the jetty for a good half hour, entertaining ourselves watching the huge waves crashing over the rocky wall, Cheri decided we'd better get to our sunset spot to allow enough time for set up.  Luckily, Rockaway Beach wasn't very far up the road, and 10 minutes later, we pulled into a tiny parking area.  The beach was a short walk through a tunnel of vegetation.

Sun trying to break through the clouds

 

The beach was a wide open expanse of sand and sky.  Two large sea stacks stood prominently to the south.  And, best of all, crowds were nil.

Glowing ball

 

 

Unfurling our tripods, Cheri and I set up our cameras and waited.  To pass time, I took dozens of photos of the sea stacks, in every conceivable angle and f stop.  The tide was coming in, so I had to keep a sharp eye out for the larger waves and book it towards shore if they came in too fast.  I wasn't keen on getting wet feet!  Cheri, much better prepared, was sporting a set of high-topped rubber boots so the waves didn't bother her in the least. 

A few rays break through

 

 

A thick fog layer hovered in the southern sky, and we were worried it would engulf the setting sun.  But, to our good fortune, as the sun sank it popped through a break in the clouds.  Brilliant rays streamed across the sky and golden colors reflected in the wet beach sand.

Sinking behind the clouds

 

Hooray!  A gorgeous sunset!  Cheri and I worked our shutters furiously trying to capture it all.

 

After the sun had set, the sky turned a brilliant pink

 

After the sun dropped below the horizon, the few people gathered on the beach watching the show began to leave.  Little did they know the best was yet to come.

Beautiful clouds and reflections

 

 

Post-sunset the sky turned a brilliant color of pink.  It lit up the clouds and reflected on the sand.  This was way better than the sunset itself!

 

Last of the sky color

 

So dramatic - and breathtaking!  Cheri and I agreed it had been very much worth the drive.  After packing up our equipment, we stopped in the nearby town of Garibaldi for some take-out fish and chips before heading home.

This quick trip made me realize I need to visit the Oregon Coast more often.  I've decided one of my New Year's resolutions will be to photograph more ocean sunsets. 
 

Angels Rest

During the summer months, I avoid hiking in the Columbia River Gorge.  The trails are packed and, quite truthfully I don't think it's the prettiest season.  In my opinion, fall is the best time to visit the Gorge.  Fabulous turning autumn leaves put on quite a show, a perfect compliment to the already amazing scenery.

 

Lovely fall foliage near the trailhead

So when late October rolls around, I reacquaint myself with this "gorge"ous (pun intended!) corner of Oregon.  A couple of weeks ago, I was trying to decide on a Friday hike.  Knowing rain was forecast for the afternoon, I wanted a short trail close to home.  Angels Rest Trail popped on top of the list.

Colors glow through the trees

 

Angels Rest is an exposed bluff on the Western end of the Gorge's Oregon side.  The summit, composed of an old lava flow, follows a rocky spine exposed on three sides by cliffs.  This lofty promontory offers excellent panoramic views of the Columbia River below.  It feels as if you're on a balcony high above the river.

Alder forest

 

But due to the close proximity to the Portland Metro, combined with a relatively short distance (only 2.4 miles to the top) and picture-postcard views, this trail is wildly popular.  The trailhead regularly fills up early, and on weekends parked cars often line both sides of the highway.  Not a fan of uber-crowded trails, it had been many years since I'd visited Angels Rest. 
 

Angels Rest summit up ahead

 

But I reasoned that an early morning arrival would help avoid the masses.  The gloomy weather forecast for the day might also deter people.  My planned early start worked perfectly, giving me my choice of parking spaces in the small lot adjacent to the Scenic Highway.  The early bird gets the worm - or in my case - the parking spot!

Columbia River glimpses

 

This trail has the unfortunate distinction of being torched by wildfires twice during the 32 years I've lived in Oregon - once in 1991 and more recently with the infamous Eagle Creek Fire in 2017.  The 1991 fire burned the summit area while the 2017 blaze scorched most of the trail's route.  Today was the first time I'd hiked Angels Rest post-Eagle Creek fire and I was anxious to see how much damage had been done.

Recent wildfire damage

The damage was apparent from the start.  Huge Douglas firs near the trailhead bore black burn scars on their lower trunks.  But I was encouraged to see many of the deciduous trees had been spared, and were now defiantly showing off their best fall foliage.

Brilliant vine maple

An alder grove just past Coopey Creek crossing was looking beautiful, golden leaves shining through burned forest remnants.  I also enjoyed a few patches of brightly colored vine maple gracing the upper open slopes.  The only good thing about the wildfires - they did open up fabulous Gorge views from the trail.  They also provided a clear view of my destination ahead - the cliffs and rocky summit of Angels Rest.

Burned-out forest east of Angels Rest

 

Although the trail is short, it does climb steeply, gaining 1500 feet in just 2.4 miles.  I huffed and puffed along the upper switchbacks but made good time in reaching the rocky summit outcrop.  

Colorful bushes amidst the burned trees

All that was left to reach the viewpoint was a walk along the rocky spine itself.  As I scrambled across the wide open plateau, I noticed extreme fire damage to the forest directly east of the outcrop.  It was sad to see such beautiful woods totally obliterated, the trees gray skeletons of their former selves.  The only silver lining was patches of brightly colored bushes, obviously established post-fire, glowing through blackened trunks.

 

 

 

 

Perfect place for a bench

Although I'd met a few other people descending while on my uphill journey, I was pleased to find the summit deserted.  Bushwhacking and scrambling the final few feet I came upon my destination - a wooden bench placed at an especially commanding Columbia River viewpoint.

Classic Gorge view

 

From here I gazed at (and of course photographed!) the Columbia River's classic westward view.  Taking advantage of such nice seating, I rested on the bench and enjoyed my hot tea and a snack.  Reading a small plaque, I learned that it had been placed in memory of someone.  For that reason, I was saddened to see the wooden seat had been carved up and covered in graffiti - very disrespectful to the person it commemorated. (This is why we can't have nice things!!)

Angels Rest looking west

As I sat on my high perch, I noticed another woman peering through the bushes.  She appeared to be seeking the same viewpoint that I now occupied.  The woman lingered nearby for a few minutes, stealing occasional glances my way.  I assumed she was waiting for me to vacate the area.  But being in no hurry, I stubbornly held my ground, and ended up taking a much longer break than originally intended.  The woman finally gave up and moved on, and when I did decide to leave I found her sitting near the eastern end of the plateau.

Colorful understory

 

Because the trek to Angels Rest itself is such a short hike (for me anyway) in years past, I've added mileage by following a continuation of this trail as it contours the ridge directly to the east.  I climbed a short distance, and then rambled through more burned-out forest, stealing occasional glimpses back to Angels Rest, it's rocky cliffs now visible through newly-created openings in the forest.

Vibrant leaves

Although the fire damage here was sobering, I did enjoy the best autumn colors of my entire hike.  Bushy undergrowth had come back strong and their golden leaves brightened an otherwise gloomy forest.

More Angels Rest views

I followed this trail another half mile until it became overgrown and faint.  Several downed trees that had yet to be cleared also presented obstacles.  Deciding this was enough for the day (and also eyeing the sky - I wanted to beat the predicted afternoon rain) I turned tail and retraced my steps first back to Angels Rest and then downhill to the trailhead.  Although I'd had the path mostly to myself all morning, I met so many folks on my descent that when I reached the bottom I wasn't at all surprised to find both parking areas now overflowing.

 

Latourell Falls

No Gorge trip is complete without visiting at least one waterfall, so before heading home I made a short detour to nearby Latourell Falls.  One of my favorite Gorge cascades, it was looking mighty fine with some fall color accents.  As you can see, autumn is definitely the best time to not only hike the Gorge, but also to photograph it's waterfalls.

A great morning getaway - so glad I have such world-class scenery only a 45 minute drive away!

Larch March

When fall rolls around, I closely monitor all the hiking Facebook pages and websites for the best places to view autumn finery.  Up in Washington state a majority of the posts featured photos of the lovely groves of Western Larch trees.  A unique species of conifer, instead of remaining green throughout winter months, the needles of the larch turn gold and drop in autumn.

 

A few last bits of fall color on Fret Creek Trail

When it comes to large groves of larch trees, Washington has the upper hand over Oregon.  But not having the time to travel to my neighboring state up north, nor a place to stay, I had to rely on getting my larch fix closer to home.  And luckily there's a spot east of Mt Hood that boasts a few stands of these beautiful conifers - the Badger Creek Wilderness.

 

Bridge crossing

 

From past hikes in the area, I remembered the larches began to turn color by mid-October.  So I planned a Friday trip in hopes of catching some golden needles.  My trail of choice was the Fret Creek Trail.  This lovely 2-mile jaunt climbs through a fir forest dominated by huckleberry bushes.  Although in past years the huckleberry leaves were a lovely hue of yellow, today I found most of them way past their prime.  Only a few scraggly bushes still held fading gold leaves.

Oval Lake

Was I too late for the larches?  Trekking past Oval Lake, the only bit of color was a few red huckleberry leaves along its shore.

Lichen-draped trees

 

Reaching the junction with the Divide Trail, I admired the long strands of lichen that draped nearby Douglas Fir trees.  Then, turning south I climbed steeply up the ridge to Palisade Point.

First larch sighting

 

About halfway up my climb, I stopped for a breather and admired the forest scenery spread out below.  And there, amongst the Douglas fir forest were a few larch trees, their golden needles glowing prominently against the deep green.

You gotta look up

So I wasn't too late!  As a matter of fact, judging by the pale green needles mixed in with the gold, it appeared the color transition was just beginning.

Fall brilliance

After taking in a the wide-sweeping views on top of Palisade Point, I followed the Divide Trail further south as it roller-coastered up and down.  I kept my eyes glued upward.  That's where the larches were.

Golden needles

 

Very few of the tall tree's branches were at eye-level.  It would've been easy to miss the golden larch needles had I not kept looking skyward.  As a matter of fact, I later ran into a couple on the trail and mentioned the larches.  Neither one of them had seen any!  I advised them that "you gotta look up."

Spiky needles

The larch trees were scattered about the forest, mostly in groups of 3's and 4's.  There wasn't any huge concentration of them.  And most of the golden-hued branches reached high above my head.

Mt Hood with a UFO-shaped cloud

Still, the trees were beautiful, and it was a thrill to see so many.  I wandered down the Divide Trail until it connected with a gravel road to nearby Flag Point fire lookout.  Having been to the lookout many times, and not in the mood for an uphill road walk, I sat down on a nearby log to take a lunch break.

Larch love

 

Lunch finished, I turned around and retraced my steps back to Palisade Point.  Wanting to get a selfie for my "65 Hikes" blog page, I found one group of larches that happened to have low-hanging, accessible branches.  I had a fun time capturing poses with the tree's spiky golden needles (and just so you know, no larches were harmed in the creation of this image!)

Golden in the sunshine

Back at Palisade Point, the light was better, and I captured this image of the forested ridge over Flag Point with a few spots of gold larch trees mixed in.  If you look real closely, you'll even see the Flag Point fire lookout tower.

Spots of gold on the hillside

Wanting to add a bit more mileage to the day's total I followed the Divide Trail north of Fret Creek to Lookout Point.  It was another thousand feet of climbing in a mile and a half.   Huffing and puffing uphill I thought "why did I choose to do this?"  But upon seeing the fabulous Mt Hood view on Lookoout Mountain's summit I decided it had been worth it.

Mt Hood from Lookout Mountain

 

After taking in the 360 degree panorama of the adjacent wilderness, and chatting with a couple enjoying wine and cheese at the summit, it was time to head back.  The return trip was quick - a steep, but sweet downhill trek following first the Divide Trail and then the Fret Creek Trail. 

Wide open views from Lookout Mountain

Funny thing, driving the Forest Service road from the trailhead back to civilization, I passed by a huge grove of golden larch trees growing right along the road!  I could've had my larch fix without the long hike and climb.  But.....I would've missed the fantastic views of Mt Hood and the scattered larch forests.  And I kind of like to work for my scenery.

A successful larch march on a beautiful sunny fall day!