Italy Day Four - Yet More of Venice!

 (A multi-part recap of my mid-April to early May Italy trip.)

Are you getting tired of my Venice posts yet?  I hope not because I have one more days worth of photos to share.  By the fourth day, I wasn't getting sick of Venice in the least.  I'd fallen in love with this unique, watery town built on top of a lagoon.

Gathering with our local guide in the hotel courtyard

So today - day four of my trip but the first full day of the tour - began with a walk around Venice accompanied by a local guide.  Our tour group was split into two and each had their own local guide.  Luckily my friends, Kim, Debbie, and I stayed together.  Our main guide for the tour (aka "MG") went with the other group while our assistant guide ("AG") got assigned to my group.  To begin our town walk, the assigned local guide (a woman whose name I now don't remember) led us into a large courtyard walled in by many tall buildings, our hotel being one of them.  An old cistern sat in the middle, now converted into a flower planter.  I'd seen this plaza out our hotel windows, but had no idea how to access it.  That's Venice for you - lots of surprises lurking down its narrow, winding lanes. 

Checking out the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo

And the surprises just kept coming.  After leaving our hotel's courtyard, our local guide steered us down a few more narrow lanes, through an arched doorway, and into another piazza.  One of the adjacent buildings had a tall tower with a fancy, winding staircase on its exterior.  Called the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, (translation: "of the snail") this spiral whirl of arches, columns, and fancy white stone railings was built in the 15th century by the architect Giovanni Candi as one of the residences of the Contarini family.  A famous Venice landmark, I would've never found this place if not for our local guide.

This house is famous for its external spiral staircase

After gaping at the "snail" house for a few minutes and taking several photos, our group was again on the move, back through the cobblestone alleyways, past colorful buildings, some sporting huge vines growing up their exteriors.

Vines growing on a building facade

A few more twists and turns took our group out onto a promenade fronting the Grand Canal.  Still early I noticed some restaurants lining the canal were just setting out their tables and chairs in preparation for the day's lunch customers.

Restaurant along the Grand Canal

Strolling along the Grand Canal for short distance our group came upon the Rialto Bridge.  The stairs and top were packed with sightseers.  It was certainly busier than when Kim and I had walked over it on our first early morning in town.

 

Rialto Bridge

Braving the crowds on the Rialto Bridge, our group climbed up the stairs and elbowed our way to a spot by the top railing.  The Grand Canal views were as great as I'd remembered from two days ago, except there was quite a bit more water traffic.  Ferries and water taxis sped by, with a few personal boats and the occasional gondola thrown in.

Boat dock view from the bridge

Lotti poses for a photo on the Rialto Bridge

The other difference from two days ago was that now all the shops lining the staircases of the Rialto Bridge were open.  People bustled about, going in and out of stores, and up and down the steps.

Lots of retail shops on the steps to the bridge

Glass items were popular souvenirs in Venice.  A nearby island in the lagoon, Murano Island, was the place where all the glass products were made.  In 1291, the city of Venice ordered all glassmakers to relocate their shops and dangerous furnaces to this island to protect the city from fires.  As our group descended down the Rialto Bridge's opposite side and back to street level, I noticed an especially inviting shop, its windows displaying a colorful variety of glassware and whimsical decorations.

Colorful glass shops were everywhere

At the bottom of the bridge landing, I again noticed stacks of table-like structures.  These were more pieces of the raised walkways the city installs in times of high tide flooding.  Called the "Aqua Alta" by Venetians, these events happened many times a year, usually during the winter rains.  Our local guide explained to us an ambitious project Venice had taken on to protect the city and the Venetian Lagoon from flooding.  Called MOSE (alluding to the Biblical Moses, "Mosè" in Italian) the project consisted of building 78 retractable gates located at the three inlets to the Venetian Lagoon.  The gates, as tall as a 5-story building, were anchored into the sea bed and using giant hinges could be raised to block high tides from entering the Lagoon.  The project began work in 2003 and the first test run of the system was in 2020, where it worked successfully.  Fully completed in 2025, MOSE has since prevented flooding in Venice many times.

Heading towards the town market

Luckily I didn't experience any flooding the entire time I was in Venice.  As a matter of fact, the weather was great - dry with mild temperatures.  

Mercato di Rialto (Fish and vegetable market)

After our lesson on Venice flood prevention measures, our local guide took off at a fast paced walk towards the main fish and vegetable market.  My tour-mates and I quickly followed - we didn't want to get lost in the maze of streets and alleys here!  The fish market, or Pescheria, had been located in this area of Venice since the 1300s.  Unfortunately for our group, it wasn't open Sunday or Monday, and today happened to be Monday.  However, the fruit and vegetable market was open, but our guide breezed by, barely giving me time to snap a few pictures before continuing on.  It looked like an interesting place to revisit - if I could find it back later.

Our guide leading the group down a narrow lane

Then at top speed, our guide hurried down a narrow side alley.  Our entire group struggled to keep up with her fast pace.  Colorful old buildings lined the street, but I didn't dare linger to take photos for fear I'd get left behind.

Crossing one of many canal bridges

Through one alley after another, our guide led us over a couple of small bridges crossing canals in between.  I snapped a quick photograph here and there, and then practically ran to catch back up with the group.

The tour group in motion

We wound through many small neighborhoods.  The urban scenery was fascinating - weather-beaten colorful buildings, graffiti, exposed brickwork, small shops, canals lined with the locals small boats, laundry hanging from balconies to dry.  Great lens candy for my camera!  I stopped quickly for a photo here and there.  However, I had to be sure not to lose sight of my group or I'd be lost forever.

Another pretty bridge

Lots of boats moored along this canal

Down yet another staircase

Someone hanging out their laundry

Artwork outside a church

Speaking of lost - we ended up losing one of our tour members.  After crossing an especially scenic canal bridge, which a lot of us stopped to photograph, our guide led us through two very narrow twisting and turning alleyways.  As we came out of the last alley, tour-mate Val (who happened to be from Portland too) told our guide she couldn't find her husband Tom.  That finally stopped our local guide in her tracks.  Everyone looked back the way we'd come.  Nope, no Tom bringing up the rear.  As a matter of fact, we discovered our assistant guide (AG) was also missing.  There was a bit of a kerfuffle, as our local guide didn't have the main tour guide's (MG) phone number.  Luckily one of our tour-mates had thought to take a photo of today's schedule with the MG's number on the bottom.  After several phone calls to both the MG and AG, it was determined that our AG was with Tom (thank goodness our AG was at the back of the pack tailing the stragglers!)  Since Tom and the AG weren't sure of their location relative to the rest of us, it was decided we would reunite at St. Mark's Square at noon, the end point of today's city walk.

Our tour took us by this church

Missing person emergency now sorted out, the local guide took off again with renewed vigor.  She breezed past a picturesque local church and I managed to get a few photos before hurrying back to rejoin the group.  (I didn't want to suffer the same fate as Tom - especially since the AG was no longer bringing up the rear!)

And the church's tall bell tower

I did manage a couple shots of the church's bell tower, which was beautiful.  I tried to research which church this was, but I wasn't able to determine it's name.  It was difficult because our path was so circuitous I'm still not sure of its exact location.  (I couldn't retrace our route on a map if I tried!)

Bell tower close-up

We ended up at a shop where gondolas were made and repaired.  It was time for a break to learn about these sleek boats that were a symbol of Venice.  After our group all filed inside and took a seat, an older gentleman, who didn't speak English, proceeded to give us a demonstration on how he made the oarlocks used by gondoliers.  Luckily our local guide was able to translate so we could follow along.

A gondola craftsman gave us a demonstration

He specialized in making the oarlocks

The oarlock, known as a forcola, is carved out of a single block of wood, usually walnut or cherry.  The wood is custom shaped to fit the gondolier's specific height, weight, and rowing style.  The many notches on the forcula have different uses, and allow the gondolier to make up to eight different maneuvers, such as slowing down, moving backwards, or forward rowing.  I had no idea rowing a gondola was so complex.

A finished oarlock and one under construction

It was a very interesting demonstration, and I was also happy for the chance to sit for a bit.  We'd been on the go for two hours by then and I appreciated the down time.

Loved all the cute restaurants with outdoor tables

But when the gondola demonstration was finished, it was back onto the street where our whirlwind tour of Venice's neighborhoods continued.

Beautiful window boxes

After another hour of walking, we had one very quick restroom break when our local guide stopped in front of a bakery and told us we had five minutes to use the facilities, get a drink, or buy something to eat.  My friends and I rushed towards the WC's because we all had to go!  Seeing a bunch of us lining up at the restroom, a man who worked there (I assume the owner) warned us that the bathrooms were for customers only.  Most of us did end up purchasing something - my friends bought me a bottle of water while I was taking care of business - so I think that counted.

Some type of utility boats in this canal

More lovely wisteria

Mask shop display window

Our walking tour then passed by large mask shop with exquisitely decorated display windows.  All of the masks were so detailed, colorful and fun!  There was even one created in the year 2020 to resemble what someone thought the Covid virus was supposed to look like.  (It's the round face below with the tongue hanging out.)

 

Another display window

With all the staircases we got our climbing in!

Gorgeous wooden boats were everywhere

Our group passed by a large walled area where the University of Venice was located.  A public research university and business school, it had an enrollment of nearly 21,000 students.

Ca' Foscari University of Venice

Large piazza near the university

From the university, our group crossed another canal and walked across a large piazza with a beautiful white marble church.  I didn't catch the name of the church, and also wasn't able to capture any good photographs of it.  So many churches here - they kind of all blended together after awhile.

Canal reflections

A public water spigot

Apparently Venice has many public water spigots located throughout the city, where tourists and locals alike can refill their water bottles.  We passed by one such spigot, and it looked so unkempt - garbage was floating in the catchment basin below (and a pigeon was walking around it's base) there was no way I'd get water here.

Loved all the canals - so picturesque

The group listening to our local guide

Wide sidewalk along this canal

Finally I recognized the wooden span of the Accademia Bridge and the Grand Canal.  I now knew where we were!  As we passed over the Accademia Bridge, I spotted another colorful Chihuly glass sculpture sitting on a nearby rooftop balcony.

Another Chihuly glass sculpture 

Noon fast approaching, our local guide quickened her pace and pointed our group towards the rendezvous point at St. Mark's Square.  I identified many local landmarks as we made our way there - such as the Santo Stefano bell tower, aka the "leaning tower of Kim."

The "Leaning Tower of Kim" again

Gondola parking area

Our group paused briefly at an ornate white marble church, which I later identified as the Chiesa di San Moisè.  The sculptures adorning its facade were quite detailed and lovely.  So many gorgeous churches in this city!

 The Chiesa di San Moisè

Entering St. Mark's Square, tour-mate Val had a happy reunion with her husband.  We also rejoined the other half of our tour members and found out their group didn't experience quite as much drama as we did.  After a bit (many bits) of information from our MG, everyone was set free to enjoy the afternoon on their own.

This shop sold shoes for gondoliers

Kim, Debbie, and I decided to head back to our hotel.  On the way, we passed a shoe shop selling colorful slipper-like shoes that were apparently used by gondoliers.  I thought it was interesting seeing a place that only sold one type of shoe.

Speaking of shoes, we made another pit stop on our way back.  After looking at them for three days, Kim finally broke down and bought the cute tennis shoes she'd been admiring in the shoe shop next door to our hotel.

Kim buys her shoes!

After speed walking around Venice all morning, I was ravenous.  Time to find some food - stat!  Hungry for more pizza, my friends and I decided to find the pizza place we'd enjoyed on our second day in Venice.  However, easier said than done.  Due to tall buildings blocking the satellite signals, Google maps wasn't working very well.  We walked around in circles so many times, I was beginning to get hangry.  But we finally located the place.  By that time I was so famished, I practically inhaled an entire pizza!

Gondola chocolate fountain

One of my "must do" items while in Venice was to locate a well-known gelato shop called Suso.  It was reputed to have the best gelato in all of Venice.  Even after stuffing myself with pizza, I still had room for dessert (there's always room for dessert!)  Loading the place onto Google maps, off we went to try and find it.

Standing in line to get gelato

After having such a hard time finding the pizza restaurant, I was a bit skeptical.  But this time Google maps came through.  It took us right to the gelato shop - the long line outside its door gave away the location.

It was worth the wait!

Although the line was long, it moved quickly.  The place posted a QR code above the door, so you could access the menu, and make up your mind before reaching the counter.  What a great idea!  By the time my friends and I were ready to order we knew what flavors we wanted.  And let me tell you, it was absolutely delicious.  Some of the best gelato I had in all of Italy!

Lotti finds a scarf she likes

Then, since it was our last day in Venice, my friends and I did a little more souvenir shopping, trying to purchase some of the things we'd had our eyes on for the last couple of days.  I got a t-shirt I'd been looking at, and Kim bought a beautiful scarf from a shop that sold nothing else but scarves.  Even Lotti got into the fun, posing with her favorite fashionable scarf.

Happy hour time once again

And then we enjoyed an early happy hour back in the same piazza where we'd spent our bleary, jet-lagged first day.

Lotti and I are liking the limoncello spritz

Both Lotti and I agreed we were really getting to like the limoncello spritz.

Another gondola ride - yipee!

That evening our tour had arranged gondola rides for everyone.  At the appointed time, we all regrouped near one of the canals.  One of our tour-mates, a nice lady named Rashi from California, was on tour by herself, so my friends and I invited her to join our gondola.  Rashi had friends who were supposed to travel with her on this tour, but they all dropped out.  I thought it was great that she decided to go by herself anyway.  

Because we were all traveling without our spouses, or didn't have spouses, the four of us nicknamed ourselves "all the single ladies" after Beyoncé's hit song.  In line for our ride, we all started humming the tune.

Lotti is the guest of honor

Our tour participants were paired up in groups of four and loaded on to a waiting gondola - everyone but one couple.  Because tour-mates Mike and Monica from Florida were celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary, they were assigned a gondola all to themselves.  And as a special surprise, two men, one playing a guitar and one singing, boarded the boat to serenade the happy couple.

Following our tour-mates gondola

Off we went on my second gondola trip!  I was giddy with joy that I was riding a gondola again.  It was even better than my first trip.  We went on a totally different route, so I got to see some new canal scenery.  Of course, my camera was madly clicking away.

Heading down a canal

Gondolas in a row

Our gondolier was fantastic.  The guy definitely had a sense of humor.  I'd brought Lotti, my Swiss cow, along and we were all being goofy and posing for photos with her.  After a bit of tomfoolery, the gondolier looked at me and sternly demanded "Give me the cow."  At first I thought we were in trouble for messing around.  But happily that wasn't the case.

Our gondolier let Lotti help him out

After reluctantly handing over Lotti, our gondolier took my cow and put her on the boat by his feet.  We all laughed - the guy just wanted an assistant! 

Lotti is an honorary gondolier!

We all thought this was great!  Many more photo ops ensued.  And I think Lotti really enjoyed herself.

We ended up in the Grand Canal, near the Salute Basilica

After wandering through a series of canals, following the other gondolas of our tour-mates, we all emerged onto the Grand Canal, this time near the Salute Basilica where my friends and I had been just the day before.  It was really interesting to see this area from the water-level vantage.

I liked the striped docking poles

Some of our tour-mates smiling for the camera

All of the other gondolas hauling my tour-mates floated into the canal.  They lined up beside one another and we had fun waving to the other tour members in their boats.

As a matter of fact, someone on my boat (I think it was Debbie) took a short video of our gondola on the Grand Canal, which I've posted above.  You can hear us calling out to one of the other gondolas, and joking about having a race.  And then Debbie comments "We're gonna win, we have the cow!"

A typical Venice scene

Two of our tour-mates were celebrating their 40th anniversary

Gondola in the Grand Canal

Happy Anniversary to Mike and Monica!

I got one good shot of Mike and Monica being serenaded in their special boat.  The happy couple looked like they were having a great time.

Someone snapped a pic of my friends and I

The scenery around the Grand Canal was so impressive, I took tons of photos.  Because I couldn't decide which ones to include in this post, you're getting them all.  Enjoy the photo dump!

Mike and Monica were serenaded on their gondola

Gondola line-up

Say cheese!

I liked the golden fish on our gondola

After floating together on the Grand Canal for several minutes, our gondolas each turned and paddled single-file down a side canal, heading back to our unloading area.

Lotti and our gondolier became friends

About that time I looked over at our gondolier's feet and to my horror, noticed Lotti wasn't there.  Oh no!  Did my little cow fall into the canal?  The gondolier heard the alarm in my voice, and worriedly looked around his boat.  Then he reached inside a small door which Lotti had been sitting on top of and to my relief, pulled her out.  Whew!  My little Swiss cow had merely fallen into a little compartment inside the gondola.

Heading for the unloading point

Lotti now safely back in my hands, our gondolier paddled his boat towards the tour's ending point.  As our gondola passed under a bridge before the unloading area, our MG, who was sitting on top, captured photos of everyone.

Pic from our tour guide

My second gondola ride had been even better than the first.  I had a fantastic time and most of that was due to our wonderful gondolier.  We sadly unloaded and thanked the man heartily.

Dinner with a few of our tour-mates

But now we were all starving - time to find some dinner!  Several of my tour-mates decided to try a restaurant on the way back to our hotel, and my friends and I decided to join the group.  We ended up as a group of twelve, taking over the courtyard of a local restaurant.  It was really fun getting to know some of the people we would spend the next 21 days with.  Everyone enjoyed fantastic food - I had a delicious ravioli dish.  Even thought I'd eaten a full dinner, I really wanted to try a genuine Italian tiramisu, so I ordered one for dessert.  (There's always room for dessert, right?)  Oh and it was so yummy - totally worth the calories!

I made room for the tiramisu

Our time in Venice was nearing an end.  Tomorrow, our tour would make its way back across the lagoon to start our journey around Italy.  Our next stop would be in the famous Italian mountains called the Dolomites.  Come back for day five of my Italy trip!