Strollin' Around Bergen

 (A multi-part recap of my early June Scandinavia trip.)

Sadly all good things eventually come to an end.  The 13th day of my Rick Steves Scandinavia tour would be the last full day of activities.  Our farewell dinner was scheduled for that evening, with many of my tour-mates departing the very next day.

Bryggen District

But we still had today - and a full morning of Bergen exploration was on the docket.  After a sumptuous breakfast courtesy of the hotel's enormous buffet, my tour-mates and I gathered outside of our hotel.  Nina introduced us to a woman named Sue who was to be the local guide for our morning's city walking tour. An English citizen who had married a Norwegian, Sue had a quirky Scandinavian-tinged British accent that was hard (for me at least) to understand at times.  

Sue led our group down to the Bryggen District, which was conveniently located only two blocks away.  

Meeting our local guide

The Bryggen District was an ancient harbor that had the distinction of being Bergen's oldest area.  Founded over 1,000 years ago it was now denoted by a row of colorful, narrow buildings, part of a long-ago fish market.  These historic rowhouses were now an UNESCO World Heritage sight, and Bergen's most iconic attractions.  Located on Bergen's main Vågen Harbor, this neighborhood was originally created as a trade center for dried cod.  The fish was dried and salted to preserve it, and then transported from Northern Norway to Bergen where it was stockpiled before being imported to the rest of Europe.  

Morning light on  historic buildings

In 1347 the Black Death devastated Norway, claiming three-quarters of its population within one year and collapsing the Norwegian government.  Seeing an opportunity, the Germans took over the lucrative fish trade, while the Danes maintained the state.  With the German seizure, Bergen became a part of  the medieval confederation of cities and towns called the Hanseatic League.  This powerful economic alliance, established in Northern Germany, dominated trade along the Baltic Sea for nearly 400 years.

Peeking at a building under renovation

The wooden fish market buildings burned down many times throughout Bryggen's history.  After each fire, these buildings were rebuilt with their original architecture, so the area still looks the same as it did during the 12th century.  Even in modern times, any rebuilding or restoration of these historic warehouses must follow medieval techniques and materials.  Over the years, the wharf area soils experienced settlement, so many of the buildings were now leaning, leaving some walls, doors, and rooflines crooked.

Traditional wooden building

This row of 11 original buildings was a huge tourist attraction, now housing chic restaurants and souvenir shops.  An additional 6 rowhouses to the north were built in more recent times, and keeping with the area's historical character, blocked views of a modern hotel building.

Lotti decided to take a breather

This colorful row of buildings caught my eye the minute I'd arrived in Bergen yesterday, and I was keen on capturing their historical charm with my camera.  While guide Sue was lecturing about the area's salty history, I was busy clicking the shutter.

These old buildings house fancy shops

Sue pointed out one of the 11 buildings that was currently under renovation.  A large banner mirroring the adjacent building's facades hung over its front.  The contractor had installed a ground-level window enabling visitors to have peek inside of the construction.  Since old building methods were required to be used, progress was slower than normal.

Stone cottage that once stored dried cod

Sue then led our group through one the buildings.  We popped out into a narrow back alley.  Imagine our surprise to find a line of buildings extending behind each of the front historic buildings.  There was at least five structures in a row behind each one.  She explained that in the fish market days, people kept constructing ramshackle buildings behind the ones lining the harbor.  These structures used to house businesses and tenements that supported the cod trade.  They were now filled with art galleries, fancy shops, and trendy restaurants.  Some of these old buildings leaned precariously, and I noticed the haphazard line of walls and rooftops extending away from the front buildings.

Walls and rooflines jutted everywhere

Sue, our local guide explaining something

Many of the upper floors of these buildings were originally warehouses used for storing salted cod.  Because the tons of cod created such heavy loads, these upstairs areas were supported by thick tree roots.  The right angles created by the truck and root were considered to be the strongest way to make a construction beam back in the day.

They used tree roots for roof support

Line of rooftops

Behind the line up of buildings was a large plaza paved by cobblestones.  A well was sited in the middle of this plaza, and it was surrounded by a few white stone buildings.  These buildings were considered fireproof, and merchants used them to store any items they couldn't afford to lose.

Beautiful brick building

Due to Norway's extensive forests, wood was the primary building material.  Bergen used to be the one of the largest wooden cities in Europe.  In olden times fire was an ever-present danger.  The Bryggen area experienced many disastrous fires over the years, and each time had to be rebuilt.  In Bergen it wasn't a question of if, but when there would be a fire.

Gathering around the town well

Another view of the storehouse

Beyond the well and white storage buildings, Sue then led the group to a large wooden door on the side of a building.  The door had a sign that read "Bossrom."  Sue remarked that when giving tours, many people would see the door and, thinking it meant "Boss room," boast that it was the place for them.  That is, until they discovered its true meaning.  "Bossrom" was Norwegian for "garbage room."

"Bossrom" didn't mean what you think

As our group strolled behind the row of historical buildings, we came to a group of modern brick structures.  This was the Radisson Hotel, built behind the newest six historic-looking rowhouses.  It sure looked out of place amongst all the other older, tilting structures.

New buildings next to old ones

There were a couple of museums located near the modern Radisson hotel.  One, the Hanseatic Museum, wasn't yet open for the day, while the other, the Bryggens Museum, housed many archeological finds from the area.  Unfortunately, this museum was under renovation, and wasn't open either.

An example of traditional Norwegian costumes

Walking by the museum area did give us a nice view of St. Mary's church, said to be Norway's oldest building.  Construction is thought to have started in the 1130 or 1140s, and it was completed in 1180.  Sadly, this was the only view we got, as it wasn't included in our tour.

St. Mary's church

We circled around the side of the Radisson, and returned to the touristy Bryggen rowhouse area.  By now it was mid-morning and the sidewalk was starting to fill with people and the some of the shops and restaurants were now open for business.  Time to move on!

The Bryggen District is getting busy

We crossed a wide Boulevard in front of the Bryggen District to a sidewalk that paralleled Vågen Harbor, Bergen's main waterfront area.

Boats along Vågen Bay

Boats were tied up along the entire harbor length.  Sue explained there was a large music festival in Bergen for the weekend, and many of the boats belonged to people here for the show.  Boats were tied up four-and-five abreast.  We were told the people whose boats were at the end of the line had to walk across the neighboring watercraft to gain shore access.  And everyone appeared to be okay with this.

Boats were tied up in rows

The day's weather couldn't have been nicer.  It was really a lovely sight to see the sparkling waters of Vågen Harbor and the clear, blue skies above.  Sue remarked this was unusual - Bergen had a reputation for being an extremely rainy city.  As a matter of fact, on average the city got 80 inches of rain a year and only 60 days of sunshine.  Far from complaining, the locals considered their lousy weather a badge of pride and would boast "There's no such thing as bad weather - only inappropriate clothing."

Looking across the bay to SW Bergen

Steep street up to the forest edge

As our tour group walked along the waterfront, we paused by an old wooden shed.  Sue explained that this shed used to house a wooden boom, used to unload ships.  Apparently these booms used to line the harbor area.  To remember Bergen's trading past, this one had been preserved.

Monument honoring sailors who lost their lives in WWI

Next to the shed was a monument consisting of a cannonball atop a concrete pedestal.  This was a monument honoring the sailors who had lost their lives in World War I.

Bergen harbor scene

Past the monument, Sue steered our group back across the busy street and into a retail area of Bergen.  We passed by a large outdoor seating area for a restaurant.  Not yet open for business, its chairs were lined with faux fur pelts - used by its patrons to stay warm on cold days.

Fur-lined outdoor seating

In front of the restaurant seating area was a large, brick building.  Sue explained that this old structure used to house a meat market.  However, it was now home to various businesses, including a Starbucks.

This old meat market building now houses a Starbucks

Beyond the meat-market Starbucks, my group followed Sue along cobblestone lanes to an area of light-colored buildings.  This, she explained, was Bergen's historic Dutch quarter.  Apparently this was home to the majority of Dutch people in past centuries.

The Dutch Quarter

Lovely sidewalk flower garden

An adjacent building had an amazing outdoor display of beautiful flower baskets.  Nice to see some greenery in an otherwise world of brick, stone and wooden buildings.

Exploring the Dutch quarter

Street scene with Cathedral Vågsalmenningen 

Sue led us through a number of wide, cobblestone streets, all with plenty of outdoor restaurant seating.  One in particular had a nice view of the Cathedral Vågsalmenningen, a local landmark stone parish church dating back to 1150.  The Cathedral started out run by Franciscan friars, but converted to Lutheran worship during the reformation.  Like their Scandinavian neighbor countries, Norway was also heavily Lutheran.  As a matter of fact, Sue remarked that there was only one Catholic church in the entire city of Bergen.

The Norwegians love their country's flag

We ambled through more business and retail districts and crossed the street via a lovely rainbow crosswalk.  I remember Sue pointing out many other important places, but after so many walking tours throughout my time in Scandinavia, I was beginning to lose interest.  On day 13, I was experiencing a bit of tour burnout.

Alicia using the rainbow crosswalk

Lovely flower pots

We ended our tour at a large, local park near a busy transit street.  The park was ringed by different art museums and an art school.  By now I was starving, needed a restroom, and was quite ready to be done.

This shop sold traditional Norwegian clothing

Before setting us free in search of lunch, Nina had us pose for one final group picture.  It was a bit windy that day, and all us ladies had our hair blowing every which-way.  I was a bit disappointed that Nina used the one photo that captured me pulling hair away from my face.  (I'm also the only oddball that wasn't smiling.)  Oh well.  

Group photo on a windy day

After retracing our steps to the meat-market Starbucks, in search of a Bergen mug for Debbie and a bathroom for the rest of us, my friends and I decided to eat lunch at the restaurant outside of the building.  (The one with the fur-lined seats.)

 

I spotted this couple dressed in traditional Norwegian attire at our restaurant

After finding a wind-sheltered table with shade for Alicia, we four ladies settled into our seats and ordered some alcoholic libations.  Tour-mates Jeff and Renee, a sweet couple from Tennessee with adorable Southern accents, happened by so we invited them to join us.

Lunch with Jeff and Renee

We all had a wonderful time chatting about our travel experiences, both past and present.  The food was good (albeit expensive) and the people watching was great.  A young couple dressed in traditional Norwegian attire came to the restaurant and were seated nearby.

Running into several of our tour-mates on an afternoon walk

After a big lunch, it was time for more walking.  Kim, Debbie, Alicia and I took a saunter through the Dutch quarter again, in search of a chocolate shop we'd seen earlier.  Along the way, my friends and I ran into a group of our tour-mates seated outside one of the restaurants.

Kim and Debbie in the streets of Bergen

Alicia and Kim in an alley

After securing some chocolate for Kim, we all agreed a revisit of the Bryggen district was in order.  We'd seen many souvenir shops on our morning's tour and my friends wanted to check them out.

Unusual gift shop finds

Perusing the souvenir shops was great fun.  And there was a lot of unusual merchandise.  Like "First class reindeer pelts."  (Not sure exactly what made them first class....)

Kim tries on a fur-lined hood

Kim found an adorable fur-lined hood with an attached scarf.  I'm sure it came in very handy during those cold Norwegian winters.

Lotti models a Viking helmet

Even Lotti found something she liked - a plastic Viking helmet.  My Swiss cow still wants to be a Viking!

They had "Scream" potholders!

"The Scream" painting was everywhere in these gift shops.  Debbie found it on some potholders (how would you like that in your kitchen?)

The "Scream" was everywhere

And one place even had a huge selection of "Scream" figurines.

Kim found herself a stocking cap

One store had several tables of nothing but knit hats.  Both Kim and Debbie found some very cute ones.

Whale steak?  Ugh.....

Walking by one of the nearby restaurants I was a bit taken aback to see whale steaks on the menu.  However, I soon learned Norwegians have no problem with consuming whales.

A huge music festival happened to be in town

After browsing several souvenir shops, my friends and I started to get burned out.  We decided to take a break and walk over to the large castle tower anchoring the north end of the Bryggen District.  Called the Rosenkranz Tower, the fortress surrounding it was built by the Norwegians in the 13th century, and expanded in the 16th century to keep an eye on the German merchants in town.  To keep the Germans in line, the cannons in this tower weren't aimed at the harbor but at the Bryggen fish market.

Bergenfest entrance

Unfortunately we found out the huge weekend music festival was being held right next door to Rosenkranz Tower.  Because of this, the tower and fortress were closed for tours.  

The festival took over the Rosenkranz castle area

My friends and I wandered over to the festival entrance.  We were all tempted to have a look inside, but judging by the ages of the festival-goers decided it wasn't a place for us old ladies.

Alicia is ready to party!

So we wandered back by St. Mary's Church and I took another photo of its front door.

Another look at St. Mary's Church

And then my friends and I took a walk behind the Bryggen District, revisiting some of the old buildings we'd seen on the morning's tour.

Another ancient fish storage building

The cobblestone street behind Bryggen led us into another business district.  This one appeared to be for the locals.

Street scenes from an afternoon stroll

It was fun to just wander through this non-touristy part of Bergen, watching the locals going about their business.

Houses perched high up a hill

On our morning's walking tour, guide Sue had remarked that Bergen was known for the steep mountains surrounding the town and was often called the "city of seven mountains."  This moniker came from Norwegian playwright Ludvig Holberg who was so inspired by the Seven Hills of Rome, he decided his hometown also needed seven mountains.  (Even though there are more than seven mountains circling Bergen proper.)

How to build a structure on a steep grade

The mountainous topography created special challenges for an expanding town.  Much like San Francisco, Bergen grew upward, building structures that perched precariously on slopes, using extremely steep streets for access.  I couldn't believe the number of houses I saw stair-stepped up the adjacent hillsides.

Street art

My friends and I walked past a tall, white wall that was covered with street art.  Many of the paintings conveyed some type of political message.

David Bowie mural

We also stumbled upon a most excellent David Bowie mural.

Cobblestone lane

Here's a few more photos I took of this quirky Bergen neighborhood.

Kim checking out an unusual bit of art

Narrow lane

Very steep street

Blue building

Lotti says it's time to party!

Soon it was time for our final event of my Rick Steves Scandinavia tour - the farewell dinner.  My tour-mates and I gathered at a nearby restaurant for one last hurrah.

Goodbye dinner

All 27 of my tour-mates and I seated ourselves around three long tables in a separate room of the restaurant.  I quickly ran around and snapped photos of everyone for posterity.  Then Nina asked us to name a "wow" moment from our tour - but she said we couldn't pick the fjord cruise (which was my, and probably a lot of other people's first choice!)

Some of my fabulous tour-mates

It was quite interesting to hear everybody's "wow" moments.  They were all quite different and for many reasons.  It was fun to recollect all the memorable things we'd seen on this tour.  When it was my turn, I mentioned the seafood lunch and fishing boat ride in Grebbstad, Sweden.  Everyone there had been so welcoming!  The "wow" moment sharing concluded with a heartfelt speech by tour-mate Roy.  Then Nina passed out parting gifts for the group - tiny ornaments in the shape of a Viking ship.  

More of my fabulous tour-mates

One of tonight's dinner choices was salted cod, and in keeping with my tradition of trying the local delicacies, I selected that.  It was served with crumbled boiled egg on top, which I thought was weird.  The cod tasted good, albeit a bit salty for my taste.

Cod with boiled eggs on top - different!

No one was in a hurry to say goodbye, and we all lingered well after dinner was finished.  My tour-mates were all such great people.  I liked every one of them, and felt we jelled well as a group.  (And for the first time in a RS tour I remembered everyone's names!)  I'd also miss our fantastic guide Nina.  She was knowledgeable, friendly, well organized, and had a great sense of humor.  One of the best guides I've had in a RS tour.

Kim and I pose with our buddies, Jeff and Renee

Some of my tour-mates had early flights to catch the next morning, so eventually people began to leave.  Many hugs were given, and contact information exchanged.  It was sad to say goodbye to everyone - later Kim and I agreed it was the best group of people we'd had on a Rick Steves tour.

Guide Nina gave each of us a Viking ship ornament

Most of our tour-mates were leaving tomorrow, but not my friends and I - we planned to stay for two extra days.  So this isn't the end of my Scandinavia stories yet!  Join me for the next post where I have more fun in the maritime city of Bergen.