 |
| Our tour group ready to board the boat |
The dock was a busy place. Several boats, large and small, were tied up and throngs of people clustered beside each loading area. There was a huge cruise ship anchored nearby that dwarfed every other watercraft. Our group gathered by a smaller boat named the Lady Elisabeth, which was to be our ride for the morning. Once everyone was accounted for, Nina allowed us to board.
 |
| Our departure town of Flåm |
Where was the best viewing area? At first I headed straight for the upper deck but found it already packed with passengers. The boat's lower back deck was also nearly half full. Heading to the front of the boat I discovered it nearly empty except for Kim and Debbie. We had our choice of viewing spots, so my friends and I decided to stay put. Happily, we had the place nearly to ourselves. Only a few more of our tour-mates joined us before we pulled away from the dock.
 |
| Now that looks like a fun way to explore a fjord |
Our boat steamed up a narrow inlet named the Aurlandsfjord. This two-hour fjord tour was to travel down the Aurlandsfjord to its junction with the main fjord and then turn down another water body named the Nærøyfjord. After traversing the entire length of the Nærøyfjord, we'd disembark in the town of Gudvangen, where Roger would be waiting with the bus. Both the Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord were branches of the much larger Sognefjord, the longest and deepest fjord in Norway.
 |
| Kim and Debbie check out a ginormous cruise ship |
The day's weather couldn't have been more perfect for fjord viewing. Clear skies, no wind, and bright sunshine illuminated the nearby green mountains and blue water. Thinking it would be cold on the water, all of us had bundled up in heavy jackets and knit hats. Standing in the sun's intense rays my tour mates and I soon realized we'd all overdressed.
 |
| Pic with our guide Nina |
 |
| Lotti and I striking a pose |
 |
| The Lady Elisabeth, our ride for the morning |
 |
| Heading away from Flåm |
 |
| Views were amazing from the start! |
Motoring out of the harbor and away from Flåm the views started immediatly. Steep mountains rose nearly vertical from the water's edge (most peaks were over 4000 feet high.) Partially covered in green vegetation, gray granite rock topped many of the peaks. White, lacy waterfalls poured down the rock faces. Against the blue sky and water it was breathtaking! My camera shutter was clicking nearly nonstop trying to capture it all. I'm gonna warn you now - this will be an extremely photo-heavy post. (Sorry - not sorry!)
 |
| Comparison of ship sizes |
 |
| Small waterfall |
Our post at the ship's bow was the perfect place to recreate that famous pose from the "Titanic" movie. Of course no one could resist standing up front with their arms outstretched. (Yes, my friends and I are a bunch of goofballs!) Every one took a turn mugging for the camera, including Lotti. (Although she was so small the photo didn't turn out very well.) My friends even persuaded our Canadian tour-mate Rodney to get in touch with his inner Rose.
 |
| Kim strikes the "Titanic" pose |
As our boat chugged up the Aurlandsfjord a dozen seagulls began following along. These birds knew humans meant food and they dive bombed a few of us, hoping to get lucky. However, one gull hung nearly motionless in the air directly above the group (which due to her earlier bird poop mishap made Kim extremely nervous.) I think that's the only reason I was able to capture this gull in the photo below.
 |
| I caught this gull in mid-flight |
Some fun facts about Aurlandsfjord - it's one of Norway's most picturesque fjords. This water body is very narrow - 17 km long (10.5 miles) and less than 2 km wide (1.2 miles) and is surrounded by mountains over 1,400 meters high (4,590 feet.) It's part of the famous Norwegian Sognefjord. Along with many other scenic arms of the Sognefjord, Aurlandsfjord is included in the larger UNESCO World Heritage area.
 |
| The gang's all here! |
The rest of our trip down this first fjord consisted of more spectacular views of dazzlingly steep cliffs, tall snow-speckled peaks, and a steady parade of white, slender cascades. The scenery was mighty impressive! It totally lived up to the hype. I've run out of descriptors so I'm just going to include this next batch of images without commentary. Enjoy!
 |
| Breathtaking! |
 |
| One of many waterfalls |
 |
| View behind the boat |
 |
Debbie's pointing to something
|
 |
| A very high waterfall |
 |
| Junction with the main fjord |
After a very pleasant sail, the scenic Aurlandsfjord intersected with the main Sognefjord, which was much wider. Our boat headed down this larger fjord, past more impressively steep mountains.
 |
| We are havin' a good time! |
Not far into the Sognefjord, we passed by a tiny isolated village, perched on the very edge of the water. Its houses were wedged between the narrow shoreline and some very steep cliffs.
 |
| Small village nestled beneath a huge mountain |
As our boat slowly passed by the first mountain in front of this village, another tall snow-capped peak came into view. A few homes were perched atop a small flat spot overlooking the town. There didn't appear to by any roads heading into the mainland, so I assumed their only access was by water.
 |
| Another view of the village |
Could you imagine living in a place so isolated? In the summer sunlight, it looked like a beautiful setting - but I don't think it would be as pleasant during the dark, snowy days of winter.
 |
| There were houses atop this mountain |
Not far from the small village, our boat passed another steep mountain. About 3/4 of the way up sat two houses atop a small flat spot. I have no idea how the occupants reached their homes - I didn't see any roads. It would be an extremely steep climb from the water's edge. (The houses are near the left side of the above photo.)
 |
| Bare granite mountain |
Our boat didn't spend much time in the main Sognefjord before we began turning into the next narrow inlet on our tour - Nærøyfjord. The entrance to this fjord was framed by a huge bare mountain of gray granite. The wall of gray granite continued as our boat headed down the Nærøyfjord.
 |
| The entrance to Nærøyfjord |
More trivia - this time about the Nærøyfjord. This fjord also is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. It's considered the wildest and most beautiful branch of the Sognefjord (I can vouch for that!) The Nærøyfjord is also 17 km long (10.5 miles) and at its narrowest a mere 250 meters wide (820 feet.) Its depth ranges from 12 meters (39.3 feet) at its narrowest point to 75 meters (246 feet) where it widens out to meet the main fjord. Surprisingly, this fjord is known to freeze over in cold winters. Some of the surrounding mountains rise up as much as 1,400 meters (4,600 feet) from water level.
 |
| Lotti is enjoying the cruise |
Again, the scenery here in this new fjord was equally as stunning as it had been in both the Sognefjord and Aurlandsfjord. So, again I'm going to stop with the words and just let you enjoy the views.
 |
| Nærøyfjord was just as impressive |
 |
| Another cruise ship |
 |
| Massive mountain |
 |
| Yet more waterfalls.... |
 |
| A huge waterfall |
 |
| Calm waters |
 |
| A cute village |
 |
| Mountain peek-a-boo |
 |
| Lone kayaker |
 |
| Still some snow atop this mountain |
Up until about halfway down the Nærøyfjord my tour-mates and I had the viewing area at the front of the boat all to ourselves. But unfortunately our serene, crowd-free spot got discovered by the rest of the passengers. All of a sudden Kim and I were surrounded by a mob of people, cell phones held high, all trying to dislodge us from our sweet front row positions. One lady (I think she was French) actually pushed Kim out of the way and slid into her spot. Seeing this I stood firm and held my space. I was here first!
 |
| Picturesque waterfall |
The crowd of people jockeying for position kind of put a damper on what had been up until then a totally amazing cruise. I got tired of phones and camera lenses poking over my shoulder. The rude French lady on one side was very pushy and kept trying to intrude into my space. Growing weary of having so many people around me, and realizing that the midday light wasn't very good in this direction anyway, I eventually gave up my spot and wandered over to the deck area in the middle of the boat.
 |
| This boat adds scale to the mountains - they were tall! |
 |
| Stunning mountains |
Moving actually worked out better. My new perch on the boat's side area actually gave me a great view of another small mountain village we passed by. This cute berg was clinging to a narrow shelf between the water and an adjacent mountain.
 |
| Cute, tidy homes |
We sailed by a row of tidy houses, a few painted bright red. (I was discovering the Norwegians loved their red buildings.)
 |
| Village church |
The boat also passed quite closely by the village church, a beautiful white structure with a tall steeple.
 |
| A group of stand up paddleboarders |
Near the town's small boat dock, a few stand up paddleboarders were gathered, I assume receiving instructions from the group leader. Wouldn't that be amazing to paddleboard down this spectacular fjord? Especially on such a beautiful day.
 |
| Village parting view |
 |
| Delicate waterfall |
Having already taken zillions of photos of the spectacular scenery, for the cruise's last few minutes I simply put down my camera and enjoyed the view.
 |
| Enjoying the scenery |
 |
| What great weather! |
And then captured a few more people photos of my friends and tour-mates.
 |
| Photo op with tour-mates Kim and Kevin |
Slowly, the town of Gudvangen came into view. Located at the Nærøyfjord's very end, it was much smaller and definitely not as touristy as Flåm had been.
 |
| Me and my cow |
After our boat tied up at Gudvangen's tiny dock, all the passengers lined up at the top of its lone exit ramp. That rude French lady ended up right in front of me, and when her turn came to walk down the ramp, she stopped right in the middle to have a chat with one of the ship's employees. Her selfish action blocked anyone else from exiting the boat. The woman didn't seem to care in the least that she was inconveniencing everyone, and continued her prolonged conversation. At that point I was fed up - it was bad enough she'd pushed my friend out of her viewing spot, but now this woman was preventing an entire boatload of people from deboarding. I yelled loudly "Move it lady!" Another woman off to my right side also started shouting something in another language (I'm assuming it was the same message.) I don't know if my angry comments helped, but the rude lady quickly ended her chat and got off the boat.
 |
| Last views before docking |
Rude lady now out of the way, my tour-mates and I filed off the boat and followed Nina to a small nearby park. The fjord shoreline gave a most gorgeous view looking back up the Nærøyfjord. I was sad that our cruise was now over, but very happy to have had the opportunity. It was the most amazing trip! Any day you get the chance to travel down a Norwegian fjord is a good day.
 |
| Kayaks lining the shore |
Roger had driven the bus from Flåm and it was parked in the nearby lot. We all came on board to retrieve our lunches. Then my tour-mates and I returned outside and searched the shoreline park for someplace to sit.
 |
| Picnic lunch |
The park's few picnic tables were already taken. So my tour-mates and I found seats on a row of large rocks lining a walking path.
 |
| Nice view for a picnic! |
Our rocky seating area wasn't as bad as it seemed. The boulders were big enough for two people and quite comfortable. And wow - what a view! The dramatic mountains lining the Nærøyfjord were breathtaking. Lunch spots don't get much better.
 |
| Debbie and I sharing a rock seat |
Nina had purchased potato chips and walked amongst the group passing out handfuls, along with napkins, paper plates and chocolate. Then I noticed bus driver Roger strolling around holding a large bottle of schnapps. I did a double-take. What was he doing? Was he drinking on the job? Oh no, Roger was too professional of a driver for that! He was merely helping out Nina, pouring each of us a small shot of the good stuff.
 |
| Roger doles out the schnapps |
 |
| Nina distributes chocolate |
After being wildly thrown together that morning using questionable condiments, my homemade sandwich turned out to actually taste quite good. (Either that or I was really hungry!)
The picnic lunch had been a great idea - and a good segue into our afternoon activity, visiting the nearby Viking village.
 |
| Viking Valley entrance |
Upon completion of our picnic lunch, everyone helped clean up and stow their uneaten food items back on the bus. Then my tour-mates and I followed Nina across the parking lot to a nearby attraction called "Viking Valley," home to a real-life replica of a typical Viking village.
 |
| Our tour guide was great |
At the Viking valley entrance, our group was introduced to a man dressed in period clothing who was to be our guide. Right away I could tell the guy would be fantastic. He was extremely knowledgeable and really got into character. The man said this village was founded in an area where they believe Vikings traditionally lived and had their markets. All the buildings were based on Viking-era styles with traditional decorations and using materials from nearby forests. This particular village was named Njardarheimr, meaning "home dedicated to the Norse god Njord."
We followed our guide through the gift shop and into the village area.
 |
| Typical throwing axe |
The first stop was at a building displaying several different types of weapons. We gathered around our guide and he picked up each in turn, explaining their uses and then demonstrating.
 |
| Viking spear |
One thing I learned from all this - Viking warfare was brutal! They used spears to impale their enemies, threw axes in battle, and used a long-handled axe weapon to knock shields away from their foes. The Vikings also fought with swords, slashing and stabbing. Of course all this fighting was done at close range, in hand-to-hand combat.
 |
| Demonstrating how the axe was used in battle |
Besides hand-held shields, Vikings also donned metal helmets for protection. Our guide showed us a replica and commented that contrary to modern depictions, Vikings didn't have horns on their helmets.
 |
| Metal helmet (no horns) |
 |
| Carvings atop a house |
After the weapon demonstration, our guide led us to another section of the village where a large Viking ship was displayed.
 |
| Viking boat replica |
The guide gave a long talk about the types, uses, and voyages of these long wooden ships. Having already heard a lot of this information at the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde, I didn't listen to much of it. I was too busy taking photos.
 |
| Lotti wants to ride in a Viking boat |
And of course Lotti wanted to get her photo taken in a real Viking boat!
 |
| Demonstrating how wool was made into clothing |
The next task our guide demonstrated was how the Vikings made their clothing. They used wool, separating the fibers into tiny strands and then winding it into thread that could be used to weave into cloth. They also used these woolen fibers for rope.
 |
| A very tedious process! |
It all looked like a very long, tedious process!
 |
| Kim and Debbie sitting in the shade |
What had starting as a chilly morning had now warmed into a very warm, sunny day. Sitting in the glaring sunlight listening to our guide, everyone became quite hot. Kim and Debbie sought shade under an adjacent building overhang. Not wanting to sunburn the top of her head, Kim used her face mask as a tiny hat. Whatever works, right? (Better than getting sunburned)
 |
| An example of a Viking home |
For the final part of our tour, the Viking guide led my tour-mates and I to a clearing surrounded by tall poles painted in bright colors. These were totems honoring the many Viking gods.
 |
| Totems representing the Viking gods |
Our guide explained the various gods that the ancient Vikings worshipped and a bit about their beliefs. There were 12 main Viking gods. You've likely heard of some of them, such as Thor, the god of thunder and Odin, the king of the gods. Because I ski, I'm also very familiar with Ullr, the god of snow and winter.
 |
| Lotti and I had to get a pic with our guide! |
After our lesson about Viking gods, our guide concluded the tour. Before he let us free to go wander the village, I had one of my friends take a picture of Lotti and I with the guide. (Lotti really wanted to meet a Viking!)
 |
Lots of structures here
|
With a precious few minutes before everyone was expected back on the bus, I quickly rushed through this very interesting village taking tons of photographs.
 |
| Pretty flowers blooming |
All of the structures were so well done! They really looked authentic. The museum had guides stationed in a few of the houses, demonstrating traditional crafts.
 |
| More village scenery |
The creators of this Viking village also had worked to make the place beautiful. Brightly colored flowers bloomed along fence lines.
 |
| Friendly locals |
The place offered several hands-on activities. There was a shooting range where visitors could try their hand at archery. They also had separate spots for people to practice their axe and spear throwing skills. And to give things a more authentic feel, a few goats even roamed the property.
 |
| Visitors could try their hand at spear throwing |
Like many of the attractions I'd visited on this Rick Steves tour, there wasn't nearly enough time to fully explore. I could've used another hour in the least. But we had a schedule to keep, so after getting as many images as time allowed, I hot-footed it back to our waiting bus.
 |
| Tvindefossen waterfall |
Our day's next destination, the city of Bergen, would be our final stop on this Rick Steves Scandinavia tour. Enroute, Nina arranged a restroom break at a magnificent tiered waterfall called Tvindefossen. She jokingly remarked the locals called it "Viagra Falls." I later read that in the 1990s this waterfall acquired a reputation for rejuvenation and revival of sexual potency (so that's where the nickname came from!)
 |
| So many tiers! |
Viagra or not, Tvindefossen was the prettiest cascade I'd seen in Norway, or all of Scandinavia for that matter. It was tall, rising about 500 feet above the base area, the water tumbling artistically down multiple tiers of rock. The only disappointment was the midafternoon sun shining directly on the waterfall made for horrible photographic conditions. But since I was here, I took photos anyway capturing the cascade as best I could. I would've loved to return here under better light and with a tripod.
 |
| A mighty impressive cascade! |
Like many tourist attractions, the base area had a small gift shop, whose contents spilled out into the sidewalk. Norway loves their trolls, so I was checking out a display of especially ugly ones and decided to snap a photo with my phone. I didn't notice the "no photos" sign below the shelf until after I'd clicked the shutter. Oops! Time to mosey on....
 |
| Gift shop trolls |
After a scenic drive along several fjords, our bus crossed over a large bridge and into the city of Bergen. This ancient fishing village turned modern port city was spread amongst islands and mountains along the North Sea. Buildings climbed up steep hillsides and tall mountains ringed the waterfronts.
 |
| We arrive in Bergen! |
Bergen was the final stop on my Scandinavia tour. Our hotel was conveniently located close to the historic Bryggen district (more on that in the next post) and fish market. We unloaded our bus for the last time and bid a very sad goodbye to our amazing driver Roger. He and his bus were headed back to Sweden the very next day. I was sure gonna miss him!
After unpacking in our rooms, my tour-mates and I were set free to explore the city and find dinner.
 |
| Colorful Bergen waterfront |
Bergen was quite a busy place! A popular port for European cruise ships, the sidewalks were full of people, many of them tourists like us.
 |
| Hmmm....interesting meat choices |
My friends and I walked several blocks to the city's fish market, situated at the end of Vågen Harbor. Here we found a large collection of food booths selling everything from fresh fish, moose burgers, and reindeer hot dogs. Seafood restaurants lined the area next to the harbor.
 |
| Sampling the local beer |
It was fun to walk through the market's main avenue, taking in the sights and smells (fishy smells at that!) But where should we eat dinner? My friends and I strolled by several dining establishments, before finally choosing an outdoor eatery underneath a large tent.
 |
| Fish market scenes |
Kim, Debbie, and I tried the local lager, a brand called Hansa, which we found to be quite tasty. We all ordered some type of fishy entree, my choice being the local salmon. The food was just okay, but everyone got sticker shock when presented with the bill. Debbie had warned us everything was expensive in Norway, especially in these tourist towns. Oh boy, was she right!
 |
| Happy to be here! |
After paying our dinner bills (gulp!) my friends and strolled back through the fish market and into the nearby city streets. The buildings seemed to be all brightly painted and many looked to be quite old. Streets climbed steeply from the harbor area, with buildings stair-stepping up the hilly grades.
 |
| Houses climbed up the steep hills |
My first impressions of Bergen were that the town was super-touristy. While Oslo had lots of museums, interesting architecture, and public art, Bergen's businesses seemed to cater exclusively to the cruise ship visitors. The streets were lined with restaurants and souvenir shops. Crowds of people flocked everywhere, many of them appeared under the age of thirty and in the mood to party. I was dismayed to find quite a bit of garbage on the streets.
 |
| Charming cobblestone streets |
My friends wanted to hit the souvenir shops, so I ducked into a couple with them. I didn't find anything I had to have, and the extremely high prices of everything was definitely a turn-off.
 |
| Tiered yards |
We walked by a large building with people queuing inside. We later learned this was the Fløibanen funicular, a steep railway that took visitors to the top of Mount Fløyen for dramatic city views. (Spoiler alert - my friends and I would get to ride on this attraction later in our visit.)
 |
| Colorful doors |
We'd had another very full day, and after walking around the blocks nearest our hotel, I was ready to call it a night.
 |
| Fløibanen Funicular |
Tomorrow I'd further explore this salty, maritime city. It would also be the last official day of my Rick Steves tour. I couldn't believe my time in Scandinavia was fast coming to an end!
Coming in my next episode, a walk around Bergen and some fond goodbyes.
...that HUGE ship looked out of place in that pristine setting!
ReplyDeleteLinda, what spectacular and breathtaking views. Thank 😊 you for sharing this journey. ❤️
ReplyDelete