Zermatt and Lausanne

 (A multi-part recap of my recent September trip to Switzerland.)

After spending a day and two nights in the Swiss-Italian city of Lugano, it was time again to move on.  Early the following morning, my tour group gathered outside our Lugano hotel to load up the bus for another day of travel.  Before boarding, I caught a nice photo of Lake Lugano and Mt. San Salvatore from the hotel's front plaza.

Mt. San Salvatore from our hotel

After two doses of the antibiotic, my facial infection was actually shrinking just a tiny bit.  I'd finally gotten a good night's sleep and was feeling much better.  

Pinocchio display at a truck stop

I was excited for today's first stop - the famous ski town of Zermatt.  But first, a long drive to get there.  Eric guided the bus north again, before turning westward.  The most direct route to Zermatt meant driving through a portion of Italy.  Upon reaching the Swiss/Italian border, I was surprised that our bus didn't stop, and there were no customs to go through.  The actual border looked more like a freeway toll booth.  I was especially amazed because Switzerland is not part of the European Union.  I guess all these European countries must have some sort of agreement if you're just passing through.

Passing scenery

On last year's Rick Steves tour, I learned to take advantage of any and all bathroom breaks.  Like your mom used to say:  "Even if you don't have to go, try anyway!"  I've coined the term "preventative pee" for these very occasions.

So after about an hour on the road, when the bus pulled into a truck stop, I definitely followed my tour-mates to the restrooms.  Unlike their American counterparts, this truck stop was quite nice, with clean bathrooms (or "WC's" as they're called in Switzerland), a restaurant, and huge souvenir shop.  Pinocchio must've been popular here as the place had an entire shelf displaying nothing but Pinocchio knick-knacks. 

Coffee and cake break in Simplon

Then it was back on the bus for another hour through green valleys with steep hills rising around them.  The terrain got more and more mountainous, the road more curvy.  After following a rushing river through a narrow gorge (and a few more tunnels), our bus made a stop at the tiny village of Simplon.

Simplon village views

Tour guide Tony said that since our group had been so patient during the bus diesel leak issue a couple of days ago, the tour was treating us to coffee and goodies at a cafe in Simplon.  We filed into the small coffee shop, and while Kim ordered our drinks, I picked out two luscious baked goods from a full display case.  Although everything looked delicious, I ended up going for the chocolate cakes.  (When in doubt, always pick chocolate!)

Lotti found a gnome!

Both the cakes and cappuccinos were as yummy as they looked, and it was nice to have a break from the bus.  After finishing my goodies I had a few free minutes before departure time.  So I explored a bit of this charming Swiss village.  Kim and I were always looking for gnomes, and we finally found one in someone's garden.  Of course, I had to get a photo of Lotti with the gnome!

 

Interesting buildings in Simplon

Then it was time to travel on to Zermatt.  Our route required a steep climb over the mighty Alps mountains.  After winding our way up to the barren, rocky slopes above treeline, we reached Simplon pass, marked by a stone carving of an eagle.  The bus then began a long descent to the other side via a circuitous mountain highway, full of hairpin turns.

 

Area approaching Simplon Pass

Simplon Pass

The rugged Alps

We wound through numerous switchbacks, tunnels, and past mountain vacation towns.  Beautiful wooden chalets dotted the landscape.  Snow-capped peaks lined the sky.

City in the valley

Mountains near Zermatt

Finally our bus turned up a narrow valley.  Mountains rose skyward on both sides.  We traveled past many more beautiful hotels and vacation homes, until reaching the town of Täsch.  

Matterhorn trail terminal in Täsch

To combat air pollution, combustion engines were banned in the town of Zermatt.  Because of this, our tour couldn't drive the bus there.  All visitors had to park at the main train station in Täsch and catch the Gornergrat railway to reach the ski village.

We had to take a train to Zermatt

Because Zermatt was located high up a steep mountainside, this particular railroad was a "rack railway."  These types of railroads (also known as "cog railways") were used to traverse steep grades.  The track employed a toothed rack rail located between the two running rails.  The trains were fitted with cog wheels (or pinions) that meshed with this rack rail.  This enabled the train to operate on steep grades up to 100% (or 45 degrees.)  It also provided more controlled braking (important when descending steep mountains) and reduced the effects of snow and ice on the rails.

On the platform

Our tour group disembarked from the bus and assembled inside the train station.  Tony returned with our tickets, and we all entered the main track area to wait for the next train to Zermatt.  Trains were fairly frequent, so it wasn't a very long wait before one of the red locomotives pulling several equally red passenger cars pulled into the station.  I was surprised by the large number of people waiting - and when the train opened its doors, we all crammed inside.  It was a standing room only ride up the mountain into Zermatt.

Crammed in the train

Luckily it only took about 20 minutes for our train to chug uphill to Zermatt.  About halfway there our train pulled aside to let the downhill locomotive zip by.  Then we pulled into the equally large (and busy) train station in Zermatt's town center.

 

On the streets of Zermatt

Back in the 90s and early 2000's I watched a lot of Warren Miller ski films.  Ski areas from all over the world were featured in these movies.  One place Warren's hot dog skiers visited year after year was Zermatt.  I'd seen countless videos of skiers swishing down Zermatt's epic mountains, and was super excited I was actually going to visit this place - even if it wasn't during winter.

We only saw the Matterhorn's base

Upon our arrival in Zermatt, the first thing Tony did was lead us through town for a quick orientation tour.  Since automobiles were banned, small electric vehicles transported freight and luggage between the train station and hotels.  And bicycles were allowed everywhere.  I learned very quickly neither of these transportation modes slowed down for pedestrians.  The high volume of electric carts and bikes zipping around kept me on my toes.

Canal full of blue glacial water

Not only skiing, Zermatt was also known for mountaineering.  Its most famous peak - the mighty Matterhorn.  One of the last Alpine mountains in the region to be summitted, its iconic rocky spire soars 14,692 feet (4,478 meters) above sea level.  The Matterhorn rises prominently above the surrounding mountains.

Car-free streets, but lots of bikes and electric carts

Zermatt boasts a picture-postcard view of the Matterhorn from its busy streets.  Everyone in my tour was hoping we'd get a good look at the famous peak, but sadly by the time we arrived, clouds hid all but the mountain's base.  A huge disappointment!

Another look at part of the Matterhorn

After failing see the Matterhorn, Tony turned everyone loose in Zermatt for a couple hours to sightsee and get lunch.

Sheep grazing in between the hotels

Where to go first?  Kim and I decided to follow one of the main roads and see where it took us.  We meandered by quite a few fancy, chalet-style hotels before the landscape opened up into a little pasture.  Sandwiched in between all the hotels, this pasture held a small flock of sheep.  An unusual sight, and a bit out of place in this glitzy town.

Very unique looking sheep!

Dodging several bikes and some very aggressive electric carts, Kim and I passed by an old wooden building decked out with large planters of colorful flowers.  A sign on the side proclaimed it "Harry's Ski Bar."  It looked like a fun place, but the establishment didn't appear to be open for business.

Harry's Ski Bar

Mountains surrounded the town.  I could see ski lift cables snaking up steep, barren hillsides.  I wondered what this place looked like covered in snow.  Oh how I longed to return here in winter and find out!

The mountains above Zermatt, where people ski

In between the fancy hotels were several weather-worn wooden buildings.  Some of them had been converted into restaurants, while others appeared to be private homes.  I noticed one had a large amount of firewood artfully stacked underneath the stairway.

Zermatt had lots of cool buildings

More street scenes

Kim and I could see a tall steeple with a clock that appeared to be near the center of town.  Acting as a beacon, we walked towards it.  Our path led us to the Zermatt cemetery.

Zermatt Cemetery

On the bus that morning, Tony had talked about some of the sights we'd see in Zermatt.  One he mentioned was its colorful cemetery just downhill from the St. Mauritius Church.  This cemetery was reserved for the town's residents.  Passing by, Kim and I were drawn in by the colorful flowers and interesting headstones.  We decided to have a look around.

Intricately carved wooden headstones

While most of the headstones were the traditional stone variety, a number of grave markers were made of intricately carved wood.  All were in the shape of a cross, with sloped wooden "roofs" to protect the carved notations from rain and snow.

This cemetery seemed out of place amongst the fancy hotels

This tidy little cemetery seemed out of place amongst the surrounding fancy hotels and restaurants.

Church steeple (with a clock, of course)

After exploring the main cemetery, Kim and I ventured by the St. Mauritius church.  Directly below the church walls was another, much smaller cemetery.  This place, called the Mountaineers Cemetery, was reserved for burying climbers who had died while trying to conquer the local peaks.

Mountain climbers cemetery behind the church

Some of the headstones featured ice axes or other climbing equipment adhered to their faces.  A few of the graves displayed dates that were over 100 years old.  It was a bit sobering to think of all the people who had lost their lives to climbing accidents.

St. Mauritius church

On to happier places!  Kim and I's stomachs were starting to grumble.  We needed to find some lunch.

Colorful restaurant

There were so many restaurant choices.  However, we didn't want to spend our limited time at a table waiting for food.  So we grabbed sandwiches from a nearby bakery and gobbled them down sitting on a nearby bench.

Marmot statue in town center

One local landmark Tony had mentioned was a large bronze statue and fountain near the town center that featured several marmots.  He told us if we happened by to count the number of marmots in the statue.  I'm a big marmot fan, so I wanted to see the statue.  Kim and I found it in the church square, and not only did I take a few photos, I also counted 10 marmots.  Back on the bus, I forgot to ask Tony if ten was the correct number - so I guess I'll never know if I got it right.

People browsing the shops

From the church square, Kim and I turned down another street that was packed with people.  This was the main retail area, and it was full of high-end clothing boutiques, sporting goods stores, and a few tacky souvenir shops.

Lots of hiking shoes!

We ducked into one sporting goods place that catered to hikers.  Racks and racks of hiking boots and shoes lined its walls.  I've never seen so many shoes!

Kim on a crowded street

In summer months, hiking and mountain climbing draw tourists to Zermatt.  I saw many people dressed in hiking clothes carrying backpacks.  Oh how I wished we could spend more time here!  I would've loved to check out some of the local trails.  This town definitely went on my "visit again" list.

Loved all the colorful flowers

One thing I could not stop taking photographs of - the lovely flowers cascading down from building window boxes.  They were everywhere!  Some windows were also adorned with cute wooden shutters.

Pretty windows

I think Zermatt won the prize for most beautiful windows.

Blue shutters and red flowers

Not only electric carts and bicycles, Zermatt also had a few horse-drawn carriages that transported people around town.

Zermatt also had a fleet of horse drawn carriages

Busy day in Zermatt

I never did check, but I wondered how expensive it would be to stay in Zermatt's hotels.  (I guess if I have to ask, I probably can't afford it!)

More flower boxes

Lotti liked Zermatt!

Of course, I brought Lotti along to see Zermatt, and got a few photo ops with my little fuzzy Swiss companion.

More cowbell!

Kim found a display of cowbells - not sure if they were for sale or just a tourist exhibit.

A very old building

Heading back to the train terminal

Carts lined up at the train station

After a lot more walking, and a bit of souvenir shopping, our time in Zermatt was nearly up.  Kim and I reluctantly made our way back to the train station.

Pretzel stand

The train station had a fleet of electric carts waiting outside to take visitors and their luggage to nearby hotels.  The station also had a pretzel shop - and their food looked so good, despite being full from lunch, I almost bought a few to take with me.

Here comes the train!

Then it was back on the train for Kim, Lotti and me.  We returned to our bus and settled in for the drive to Lausanne, our day's final destination.

On the train back to Täsch

Lausanne was located in the French-speaking corner of Switzerland.  While enroute, Tony gave us a quick French lesson, with special emphasis on numbers.  Then he read everyone's hotel room numbers in French, which we had to try and decipher.  French was much, much harder than Italian, and when our room number was read off, I had no clue.  Luckily, after a bit of guessing, Tony ended up giving us all the English translations.

Lake Geneva with Chillon Castle

Our approach to Lausanne was dramatic.  The highway followed Lake Geneva's shoreline, giving sweeping views of this large water body.  Snow-capped mountains rose on all sides.  We even passed by a castle that appeared to be sitting in the water itself (Chillon Castle, which we'd visit the following day.)  The city itself was situated on a hill overlooking the lake.

Unloading at Lausanne's bus termial

Our hotel was located in a pedestrian-only zone of downtown Lausanne.  Since there was no parking nearby, our driver unloaded everyone at a city bus stop.  Tony then led our group a few blocks through cobblestone streets to reach our home for the next two nights.

Lausanne cathedral on the hill

Hotel check in didn't go well.  Before anyone could reach their rooms, the elevator stopped working.  Luckily Kim and I's room was only on the second floor, so we lugged our suitcases up the stairs no problem.  However, many of our tour-mates had rooms on the 4th or 5th floors, so they had a bit more climbing to do.

Beautiful cobblestone streets

It took some time to get everyone settled.  The embarrassed hotel owner quickly got a repairman on site to fix the broken elevator.  After about an hour, our group reassembled in the hotel lobby for a short city tour and dinner.

Colorful fountain

Tony led our group through Lausanne's charming downtown core.  Tall buildings rose above decorative cobblestone streets.  Many buildings displayed brightly hued window shutters or intricate iron balcony railings.  We walked by a colorful fountain in the middle of a large plaza.  

Stairs leading to Lausanne cathedral

Some of the hills were steep, but that didn't stop the city from expanding.  Along one street, buildings stair-stepped up the hill.  Pedestrians could either navigate the adjacent roadway, or climb up a staircase built into the middle.  The stairs even had a roof overhead most of the way.

Group dinner with Tony, Sayumi and Kim

Dinner that night was in a local restaurant, featuring a fondue-type meal.  Each person cooked beef in boiling hot broth contained in a tabletop pot.  Kim's buddy Sayumi joined us, as her husband Tad wasn't feeling well that evening.  Tony also sat at our table, and entertained us with tales of world travels in his younger years.

A better group photo, courtesy of Kim

Everyone stuffed their bellies with salad, beef, and french fries.  Then we headed back to the hotel for hopefully a good night's sleep.  Tomorrow we'd spend a full day exploring Lausanne and it's surrounding attractions.

In my next post, I'll detail visiting the Olympic Museum, a boat ride across Lake Geneva, Chillon Castle tour, and exploring Switzerland's wine country.  You won't want to miss it!