Theodore Roosevelt National Park

Those who've read my blog for awhile know I'm a National Parks junkie.  Any opportunity to visit a "new-to-me" U.S. national park and I'm there!  So after all the trips I've made over the years back and forth between Oregon and South Dakota, you would think I'd have visited Theodore Roosevelt NP before now.  After all, it's in the neighboring state of North Dakota, a mere 4-hour drive north of where my parents live.

Welcome to North Dakota!  Buffalo herd in the rest area.

But noooo......I've never taken the detour to check out TRNP.  So this fall, after spending a week in South Dakota visiting family, I decided to remedy that.  Since I no longer have job commitments back home, it's freed me to add days to my trips - and see places that have before eluded me.

Painted Canyon overlook

One sunny Monday in late September had me driving north through South Dakota's sparsely populated Harding County, full of cattle ranches, antelope, and not much else.  (I once had a teacher describe Harding County as a place having "more cows than people."  I now believe it!) 

I was happy to see fall colors in full swing

A short drive through lots of nothing got me to Interstate 94.  TRNP wasn't far now.  Unfortunately nature was calling.  But - yay - there happened to be a rest area just ahead.  As I left the highway and traveled up the exit ramp, I was greeted by a large herd of buffalo - right in the parking lot!  They were also on the side of the road, prompting the car in front of me to make a dead stop.  Out came their camera.  Ugh!  Normally it wouldn't have been a big deal - I'd probably be taking pictures too.  But due to the urgency of my situation, I have to admit I was a bit irritated by the delay.  Luckily, the car's occupants didn't linger too long, allowing me to reach the restroom in time.

Interesting striped hills

Besides the resident buffalo herd, this rest area was unusual in another way.  A portion of Theodore Roosevelt National Park was located right here.  The restroom building had been sited at the top of a tall bluff overlooking an area of colorful striped hills.  Called the Painted Canyon Unit, a separate visitor center building was located to the left of the bathroom.

Painted Canyon scenery

Oh it was beautiful!  To make things even better, I noticed a large grove of deciduous trees in one area, well into their autumn color transition.  Time to dig out my camera and get to work!

They were even behind the restroom building!

A paved walkway hugged the top of the bluff.  I didn't realize until later a nature trail existed that took visitors to the very bottom of this colorful canyon.  But I was itching to see the main park nearby so I probably wouldn't haven hiked it anyway.  Instead I strolled around the blufftop, taking in the lovely sights.  Walking around the backside of the restroom, I noticed a couple buffalo grazing right next to the building.  If someone exited the bathroom from the wrong door, they'd be in for a surprise!  Giving these beasts a wide berth, I continued my explorations.

Stopping traffic

Most of the buffalo were still roaming the parking lot when I returned to my car.  I couldn't leave here without at least a few photos of the "fluffy cows" so I slapped zoom lens on camera for some close-ups.  (No, I'm not dumb enough to get remotely close to these big fellas!)  A couple buffalo positioned themselves right in the middle of the entrance road, blocking two cars and a semi truck for a short while.

Yes, I used my zoom lens for this capture!

This rest area was great, but Medora and Theodore Roosevelt NP South Unit beckoned.  A mere 10 minutes down the road had me exiting once again to the touristy, but cute, town of Medora, North Dakota.  Many of the storefronts were made up to look like a western frontier town.  Situated in a valley surrounded by scenic layered hills, the location was quite beautiful.  Too early to check into my motel, I found a "saloon" that served a terrific hamburger and tasty local brew.

Golden fall colors behind the visitor center

Then it was time to explore the South Unit of TRNP.  The visitor center was conveniently located on the west end of town.  Hoping to score some sunrise and sunset recommendations, I stopped in to chat with a ranger.  The ranger on duty was super helpful, even taking the time to mark his choices on a park map for me.

Teddy Roosevelt's Maltese Cross cabin

Theodore Roosevelt National Park is named after the 26th US president.  Theodore Roosevelt first came to North Dakota (then Dakota Territory) in 1883 to hunt buffalo.  A skinny, asthmatic, bespectacled young man from the east, the rugged landscape and strenuous exercise he received during his stay transformed him to a robust, healthy individual.  TR fell in love with this empty, but beautiful area.  His experiences in Dakota Territory sowed the seeds that later evolved into forward-thinking conservation policies, one of the things he is best known for implementing during his presidency.  These conservation policies helped establish the Forest Service and create many national parks and preserves.

Fantastic views along the park road

When Teddy Roosevelt first came to Dakota Territory, he invested in a local cattle company known as the "Maltese Cross."  The cabin TR lived in during this time, now known as the "Maltese Cross Cabin" has been moved to the rear of the visitor center, and is open for viewing.  After chatting with the helpful park ranger, I stepped outside to have a look.  The day was brilliantly sunny, and the huge cottonwoods nearby were at their peak yellow autumn hues.  A gorgeous setting for this historical building.

More autumn finery

Business taken care of at the visitor center, it was time for a drive.  A 48-mile loop wound around the South Unit.  However, at the time of my visit, the southwest corner of the road was closed for construction, forcing visitors to retrace their steps once reaching the closure.  No mind, it was a lovely early fall day, perfect to explore the park.  I was surprised by the amount of leaf color I found.  A good portion of the park's deciduous trees were already displaying their best autumn hues.

Cottonwood tree colors

This portion of North Dakota is often referred to as the "badlands."  (Not to be confused with Badlands National Park in South Dakota)  However, having been to both places, I found the North Dakota badlands to be less stark.  There were lots more trees and shrubs, and with most of them displaying fall finery, it was absolutely beautiful.  I felt lucky to have visited during the fall.  I really thought the park was at it's most scenic best in late September.

Buffalo and fall colors

During my trip around the park, I saw plenty of buffalo and prairie dogs.  Known for it's large wild horse herd, I'd hoped to see some of these, but no luck today.  

Beautiful striped rock strata

After reaching the road's temporary end, I turned around and headed back through the park.  I'd enjoyed my drive through such a surprisingly stunning place.  But now it was time to check into my motel and get ready for sunset.

Wind Canyon Overlook

The park ranger had recommended Wind Canyon overlook for a good spot to watch the sunset.  About halfway down the park road, I planned my entrance with enough time to get to my spot well before dusk.  A short climb up a bluff brought me to the edge of a steep cliff above the Little Missouri River.

 

Evening light along the Little Missouri River

What views!  The Little Missouri artfully curved through the bottomlands.  Scenic eroded rock layers rose from one side.  Golden cottonwood trees lined the riverbanks.  The vistas stretched for miles.  This was gonna be good.

A beautiful sunset

A place so scenic as this of course attracted people, and I wasn't alone when night began to fall.  But busy trying to capture the sun's last gasp, I didn't notice much.  Although the sky was void of clouds, it still turned a nice brilliant orange as the sun dramatically exited the landscape.

Post-sunset light

I stuck around until the light was totally gone.  Then packing up to head back to my car, I looked in the opposite direction and noticed some wispy pink clouds hovering right above the horizon.  So concentrated on the western skyline, I'd almost missed the sky show to the east.  Luckily, this lovely scene hadn't quite dissipated, and I was able to catch a couple of images before it did.

It always pays to look behind you!

Back to my motel for a much-needed night of sleep.  Another full day in the park planned for tomorrow, I was hoping for more great scenery, and hopefully a glimpse of those wild horses.  Check back for my next post recapping day two!