Memaloose Hills

Sorry for last week's absence from blogland.  I just returned from a wonderful trip to Hawaii (which you'll hear all about very soon).  But for now, it's time to play catchup.

After a successful morning photo session at the Dalles Mountain Ranch, I headed over to an area I'd heard glowing wildflower reports from but had never visited - the Memaloose Hills.

The balsamroot show continues!

Located on the Oregon side of the Columbia River Gorge, just east of the tiny village of Mosier, these hills above I-84 and the Historic Columbia River Gorge Hwy (aka US Route 30) were rumored to produce a fantastic display of spring wildflowers.

Gnarled oak trees

Intending to start at the rest area along I-84, I took a quick detour up to Rowena Crest below Tom McCall Point.  The yellow balsamroot flowers were blooming in force, but not much else.  So I continued down the Historic Highway towards Mosier.  A large amount of cars were crowded in the scenic overlook pullout.  Taking advantage of a rare open parking spot, I decided to explore.

Yellow sunshine along the trail

Which way to go?  Above the highway or below?  Noticing a user trail amongst the oak forest on the highway's uphill side, I made a snap decision to go high.  As you'll soon see, it was definitely the right choice.

Lovely larkspur

 Right away I spotted Indian paintbrush, Prairie Stars, Larkspur and of course lots of balsamroot. 

Unknown two-tone flower

I ran into a couple of men from Australia, visiting the Pacific NW on a photography vacation.  Amazing that folks from other countries knew about this area that I'd never visited!

Approaching Marsh Hill summit

Climbing higher, through gnarled, mossy oak trees, I struck up a conversation with a local man heading back downhill.  He pointed out a cluster of chocolate tiger lilies that I'd missed.  A rare spring flower, there must've been over a hundred blooms in the vicinity.  (In a good season, I'm lucky to spot a half dozen)

Marsh Hill's slopes were covered with balsamroot

The man told me there were two main trails in this area.  One would lead me to the top of Marsh Hill, while another climbed the slopes of adjacent Chatfield Hill.  Winding between private land, this trail system provided access to some lovely views and flower fields.

Sweeping summit views

Thanking the man for sharing his trail tips, I continued steeply uphill.  The concentration of wildflowers kept getting thicker.  Progress was slow - so many photo ops!

Glimpse of the Columbia River

Crossing a small stream, I came upon the trail junction the man had described.  Having no destination in mind, I made a snap decision to go left towards Marsh Hill.

Prairie Star hanging out with the balsamroot

Winding up the slopes of Marsh Hill, the forest thinned, the balsamroot began to grow thicker, and the vistas opened up.  This was by far the most balsamroot I'd seen so far.  It covered the slopes in a huge patch of yellow.

Big Head Clover

On Marsh Hill's humble summit, other flowers joined the wildflower show.  Tiny white Prairie Stars mingled with the balsamroot's large yellow faces.  And numerous patches of pink Big Head Clover added a nice color contrast to the scene.

Hikers delighting in the flower fields

The views on top were grand indeed.  I could see the adjacent farmland spread out in three directions.  Towards the north, I caught teaser glimpses of the Columbia River flowing beneath the Gorge's steep banks.

Chocolate Tiger Lilies

It was terribly windy on top, making flower photography difficult.  I tried hard to be patient and wait for a break in the gusts.  I managed a few good shots, but ultimately decided the sheltered woods below Marsh Hill provided better photo ops.

Balsamroot group

Back down the slope I traveled.  By now, it was past noon.  Although I'd initially considered also exploring Chatfield Hill's summit, a rumbling tummy was persuading me to head to Hood River for a burger.

More lovely unknown flowers

So back through the now-familiar flower fields I traveled.  Even though this was my second time through, I still found floral subjects I'd missed (or at least thought I had!). 

Balsamroot swaying in the wind

By midday I met a steady stream of people trekking up the trail.  Thanks to social media, Oregon and Portland Hikers websites had been inundated with posts from this area.  Beautiful places aren't a secret anymore!

Tons of chocolate tiger lilies here

Still, how could anyone keep such a lovely place as this a secret?

Wonderful spring sunny joy

Truly one of the best wildflower blooms I'd seen this year!  Why had it taken me so long to hike here?

Indian Paintbrush

Near the parking area, I ran into a huge patch of gorgeous orange Indian Paintbrush.  Mixed in with white Prairie Stars and yellow buttercups it made for a colorful forest floor.

Colorful forest floor

I ended my day with a memory card full of vibrant floral images and a happy heart.  Being outdoors in a beautiful place always works wonders for my mood.

Wildflower bonanza!

Yes, this place will definitely go on the "must visit" spring wildflower list for next year!

Back to the Ranch

It's become a spring tradition.

When the wildflowers start blooming at the Dalles Mountain Ranch, I pack my camera for an early morning photo excursion.

Sunrise on the old car

After reports that the yearly flower show was on, I chose a late April Friday to make the annual trip.  This was my fourth season visiting this wonderful place, and every year it seems to attract more people (blame the power of social media.....and those darn photography bloggers!) :)

First light illuminates the fields

The ranch is part of Columbia Hills State Park, located on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge, just east of Dallesport.  It features old barns, a ranch house, acres of wide-open spaces, and the main attraction - an old rusted Studebaker in a field of wildflowers.

Sun's rays on the old car

The weather forecast promised a dry, sunny day.  However, driving down the dusty access road my car began to get buffeted by strong winds.  Ugh!  That's not conducive to close-up photography.

I like the light on this photo

In the early pre-dawn light, I parked near the field containing the old car.  Climbing over a hill, I spotted two photographers already in place waiting for sunrise.  They were both hunkered down, bundled up against the strong gusts. 

Surrounding landscape

With the wind blowing the flowers all around, macro shots were out.  So I set up my tripod to capture some wide-angle landscape shots instead.

Nice light on the adjacent hills

The sunrise was spectacular.  It spread wonderful light on the adjacent green hills, which I tried feverishly to capture.  I'd wait between wind gusts to trip the shutter, hoping for the least amount of movement.  Once and awhile it worked.

Fenceline

Instead of the same old car images that I've done for the past three years, this time I tried to capture the rusted auto from different angles.  I particularly liked the shot I took directly into the rising sun (sometimes you gotta break the rules!). 

An old barn

After a couple hours spent in the lovely flowers fields by the auto, I worked my way around the old ranch buildings - always a delight to photograph.

Balsamroot

And walked along some trails cris-crossing wide open fields below the ranch. 

The far hill has a tint of yellow

The yellow sunflower-like balasmroot flowers were at their prime.  Although the bloom wasn't quite up to par (the past two years were much better) seeing huge open fields with a tint of yellow was still a spectacular sight.

Trail marker

But the purple lupine flowers were just getting started.  And they were thick near the old car. 

Not so friendly horse

I wandered by an old corral and was surprised to discover a horse inside the fence!  Trying to get his attention for a few photos, I whistled and called out, but he was too busy eating to pay me any mind.

The famous wagon

By mid-morning, I decided to head back to the auto for a few more images with different light.

Backlit lupine

A couple hours after sunrise is a great time to capture the wonderful flower show blooming around the old car.  Of course, by then, several other photographers had set up tripods in the field.

Vibrant flowers

The wind was still whipping, so we all had to wait for a lull to fire our shutter buttons.

Close up

Still, I was able to get a few images I was happy with.

The lupine was just getting started

By late morning, it was time to pack up and head to another destination in the Gorge.  I'd heard the wildflowers were amazing in the Memaloose Hills.  Some place I'd never hiked, it was time to check this place out.  (Stay tuned, it's my next blog post)

Lovely wildflowers

Always a delight to return to the Dalles Mountain Ranch!  It's spring flower show never disappoints.


Past blog posts from the DMR:

April 2014
Post One 2015
Post Two 2015
April 2016

Coyote Wall

It's that time of the year when my interests begin to conflict.  There's still plenty of snow in the mountains, and spring skiing is always fabulous (sunshine, warm temps, great views).  But by mid-March, wildflowers begin blooming in the eastern Columbia River Gorge, and I start getting the  photography bug.

What to do?  I skied for as long as I could stand it, but by mid-April the fear of missing wildflower season had me dusting off my hiking boots.

Morning reflections

East of Hood River, the Gorge generally has warmer and drier weather, so wildflowers bloom first here.  Hikers looking for a spring flower fix start flocking to this area in March.  I'd been monitoring reports from various outdoor websites and when I heard the balsamroot was getting started, I decided it was time to go hiking!

Train chugging through the Gorge

The eastern Columbia River Gorge is a stunning area.  Not only prolific early wildflowers, dramatic views and wide-open spaces are in sharp contrast to the forested green canyons west of Hood River.

Oak trees on the Little Maui Trail

Most of the balsamroot reports were coming from Coyote Wall, so I decided this would be my destination.  Coyote Wall is a scenic basalt cliff on the Washington side of the Gorge, about 5 miles east of White Salmon.  Originally frequented by mountain bikers, it's grassy wildflower meadows have also become a popular place for hikers.  It had been many years since I'd hiked here, so a revisit was definitely in order. 

Brand-new oak leaves

I picked a rare dry Saturday in mid-April, and knowing the place would be overflowing with desperate sun-seekers, got an early start.  Arriving at the trailhead by 8 am, I happily claimed a parking spot in the main lot.  Early morning clouds were lifting from the river, reflecting in the Columbia's still waters.  A few mountain bikers were already unloading their bikes and setting out.

Prairie Star

Many trails criss-cross Coyote Wall's grassy meadows, but to access them all requires 3/4 mile walk along a section of abandoned roadway.  Passing by tall basalt cliffs, I noticed several large boulders lay scattered on the crumbling asphalt (obviously the reason for the road closure).  Railroad tracks paralleled the old highway, and I was pleasantly surprised to encounter an early morning freight train rumbling by (great photo op!)

Desert parsley

Reaching the trail beginning, I started an uphill climb following a severely eroded dirt track.  It didn't take long before I encountered the first trail junction.  Hmmm.....Old Ranch Road or Little Maui trail?  I liked the sound of Little Maui, so decided to try that first.

What's peeking over the horizon?

The rutted dirt track led me uphill through a spectacular green meadow, bursting with yellow desert parsley and frilly white prairie star flowers.  The higher I climbed, the better the views became.  Morning clouds lifted for good, and I spotted Mt Hood's white tip rising above the Oregon side of the river. 

A few early trail users

Aside from a couple very polite mountain bikers, I was by myself.  Ambling through a stand of huge oak trees bursting with new leaves, I crossed a tiny creek gushing with spring runoff.

Small waterfall

My trail continued to wind up the hillside, roughly following the watery gully.  More flowers bloomed and I enjoyed their colorful addition to the spring greens.  But where was the balsamroot?

Desert parsley and river views

I'd read reports that this lovely yellow flower was beginning to bloom here.  But so far I hadn't seen any.  I hoped they weren't wrong!

Such a scenic trail!

No matter, I was thoroughly enjoying myself.  The spectacular views kept coming, and the photo breaks were numerous.

Large oak tree

Near the top of a short waterfall, I took a snack break next to this gnarled oak tree.  A lovely spot for a photo op!

Trail junction

Looping back around the trail connected with the upper portion of the Old Ranch Road.  The vistas up here were tremendous!  I had a view of the eastern Columbia River that stretched nearly to The Dalles.

Mt Hood rises over the fenceline

And Mt Hood looked mighty fine from up here too.

The balsamaroot is blooming!

The Old Ranch Road rose steeply uphill, following the rim of Coyote Wall's rocky cliffs.  It was a lung-busting climb!  But after traveling a short distance, I saw a familiar yellow flower ahead, blooming beside the road.  Could it be...?

Sunny yellow flowers

It was balsamroot!  The reports were true!  Excitedly, I pulled out my camera and began a frenzied photo session.

Coyote Wall

Now that I'd gotten some balsamroot pics, my day was complete.  But wanting a bit more exercise, I continued to climb up the old, rutted road.  Side trails branched off to unofficial viewpoints atop the canyon's rim.  I began to encounter more people, and quite a few mountain bikers, grinding up this extremely steep trail.

Last of the grass widows

My goal was a small grove of oak trees.  Although not the official trail terminus, this tiny forest marked meadow's end.  Ducking into a cluster of gnarled, mossy branches, I spotted a couple straggler grass widow flowers.  Usually early March bloomers, I felt extremely lucky come across these delicate, purple beauties.

Fabulous Gorge views

After climbing all morning, I was happy for some downhill walking.  I followed the rim trail nearly all the way back to the old road junction.  More amazing views tempted my camera, and it was a slow descent.

Heading back down

By now, the world had woken up, and I encountered several large groups of hikers puffing up the steep dirt track.  And an equal number of mountain bikers were either spinning uphill or racing back down.  The hikers and bikers seem to peacefully coexist.  In fact, all the bikers I encountered were super courteous.  I, in turn, made sure to step off the trail and allow them to pass.

Desert parsley growing in the rock walls

By the time I reached the old road again, crowds of people were streaming towards the trail.  Thankful for the early start and solitude, I made a beeline for my car. 

Bottom of the cliff face

A perfect day to be out in the Gorge!  With the flowers beginning their yearly spring bloom, it was wonderful to be back on the trail.

Six-miles round trip with 1500 feet of climbing - a good start to my hiking season.