Salve, Italy!

As my plane descended into the Venice airport, I peered out the window to get my first look at this unique city built entirely on a lagoon in the Adriatic Sea.  After two long flights, I was finally in Italy!  A trip nearly one year in the making, I was beyond excited to explore this "new to me" country.

At the Portland airport, all ready to go!

My latest international adventure began last spring, when my good friend and travel buddy Kim suggested we sign up for a "Best of Italy in 17 days" tour.  Interested in seeing the famous works of art housed in several cities on this tour, Kim said this trip would check many things off her bucket list, including Michelangelo's "David" the most famous statue of them all.  Hearing rumors about crowds, chaotic driving, and rampant pickpockets, I'd never thought much about visiting Italy before.  However, after reading through the itinerary and hearing glowing reviews from my daughter (who had visited twice already), I decided it was high time to check this country out.  Throughout the winter and spring, I did my homework, watching youtube videos and taking an Italian language crash course courtesy of Duolingo.  By the time April 16th, our day of departure, rolled around I was hyped to explore this country full of art and history.

My first glimpse of Venice from the plane

Not only Kim but our mutual friend Debbie, who we'd met on our first tour of Ireland decided to join us for the fun.  After meeting up at JFK airport in New York, we boarded the same flight to Venice.  Upon landing we three ladies teamed up again to get through customs, the baggage claim, and the all-important restroom break, before following water taxi signs through the Marco Polo Airport.  

Waiting in line for our water taxi

Because Venice is on an island, with only one road in and out, my friends and I learned it was faster to enter the city by boat.  We were told the "Alilaguana" water taxis were the best and cheapest option, with several lines shuttling passengers between the airport and city proper.  The only problem - we encountered massive Disneyland-like lines at the designated boat dock.  I also got my first taste of what I'd come to know as "Italian time."  None of the people operating the ferries seemed to be in a huge hurry, despite the crush of people.  The weather was quite warm and I sweated while waiting for our boat.  After nearly 18 hours of travel I was more than ready to get to our hotel.  As we stood in line, my friends and I eyed the smaller, private water taxies.  Despite their high prices, the longer we waited, the more tempting it became to hire one.

The Alilaguna, Venice's water taxi

After what seemed like an eternity (probably more like an hour) my friends and I moved up to the front and finally got on board a waiting boat.  Crammed inside, holding onto our suitcases, the boat sped off through the lagoon and turned down the main canal.  Out the dirty boat window, I got my first look at Venice.  I gazed in wonder at the colorful, water-stained buildings lining the water.  Watercraft of all shapes and sizes filled the canal.  Hotels and restaurants occupied one side, their dining areas spilling out into the walkways.  And the people - throngs of tourists filled the narrow sidewalks.

Our first happy hour in Italy

Our boat dropped us off near the Rialto Bridge.  Consulting the directions for our hotel, I tried to follow a paper map, while Debbie and Kim used their phones.  Neither one was particularly helpful, as we attempted to navigate the maze of narrow, confusing alleyways.  After a few wrong turns, we finally spied our hotel's sign.  Oh happy day!  

Lotti likes the limoncello spritz

After checking into our rooms and freshening up a bit, I was ready for a nap.  But it was only mid-afternoon and my friends and I realized if we slept now, then we'd be up all night.  Hoping to beat jet lag, we decided to walk around and find someplace for an early happy hour.  Our hotel's front deskman recommended a piazza, or public square, not too far away that he said had plenty of options and wasn't quite as touristy.  Clutching his marked-up city map, my friends and I set out to explore the town.

Venice was a city of canals and bridges

Walking through the narrow streets of Venice, the first thing I noticed - there were no vehicles.  No cars, no bicycles, nothing on wheels (except for an occasional stroller.)  Here everything was moved by water via the myriad of canals criss-crossing the city.  The streets seemed to veer in every direction.  Winding our way through alleyways lined with tall buildings felt like we were navigating a maze.  In no time at all, I'd lost whatever sense of direction I thought I had.    

All the restaurants had outdoor seating areas

Despite the directional confusion, I quickly found walking the streets of Venice to be a delight.  Colorful buildings rose from the sidewalks, some with interesting windows and doors.  Most structures were old and weathered - but that gave them character.  Laundry flapped from upper windows, and green plants lined some balconies.  Tiny decorative bridges spanned canals - and they seemed to be everywhere.  Unexpectedly we'd stumble into a lovely plaza, with outdoor seating for an adjacent restaurant, a few tacky souvenir stands, or featuring a large sculpture prominently sited.

Beautiful flower stand

After wandering through two piazzas and over three small canals, my friends and entered our third open plaza, the one noted on our map by the hotel.  There were a number of restaurants, their outdoor seating areas shaded by large umbrellas.  Which one to choose?  We plopped ourselves down at the first open table - time for some liquid refreshment!

Can you believe we're really here?

A waiter came to our table immediately.  Debbie loves Aperol spritz and ordered her first of many for the trip.  Kim ordered a beer.  I hemmed and hawed, but finally chose a limoncello spritz - something I'd never tried before.  Our drinks came with a small plate of appetizers, or cicchetto, as they are called in Venice.  It wasn't much - just three pieces of toasted bread, one with bruschetta, one with some type of icky fish paste, and.....I don't remember what was on the third one (wasn't memorable I guess.)

The winged lion - a symbol of Venice

When our drinks arrived, my friends and I toasted to our successful trip thus far.  We were really here - in Italy!  As promised by our hotel, this piazza seemed to be less touristy and it appeared many locals were patronizing the nearby restaurants.  It was fun to sit back and watch the people pass by.

Another pretty bridge

After draining our drinks, we all had to urge to explore Venice some more.  So we paid our charming waiter, and followed the walkway a bit further.  After passing by a local church and an enormous flower stand, it's colorful blooms spread out along the sidewalk, we came to the main canal.  A large wooden bridge spanned its waters - later I'd learn this was the Accademia Bridge.

There goes a gondola!

Not wishing to get lost again, my friends and I opted to go with what we knew, and turned back at the Accademia Bridge to retrace our steps through the three piazzas heading towards the hotel.  This time we tried to walk slowly and take in all the new sights.  One of the piazzas had a huge winged lion sculpture in its center.  A symbol of Venice, the winged lion of St. Mark represented St. Mark the Evangelist, the city's patron saint.

Another gondola!

When mentioning the city of Venice, of course the first thing everyone thinks of is gondolas, the beautiful, sleek, black boats skimming through the canal waters.  Once used extensively for transport in the narrow waterways, nowadays the gondolas are primarily a tourist attraction.  As my friends and I made our way back towards the hotel, I noticed many of these iconic symbols of Venice gliding through the canals.  They made excellent photo subjects.  (And I just may have taken a few dozen gondola images....)

Loved the windows on this building

Oh, so many sights to photograph!  Enjoy the next few photos of our walk back, minus my commentary.

Lone tree amongst all the hardscape

Accademia Bridge over the main canal

Loved the striped poles - I think they were to guide the boats to dock

Group photo, including Lotti

One of many piazzas in town

Mask shops were everywhere

As my friends and I made our way back through town, I noticed many shops selling nothing but very fancy, colorful, and intricate masks.  Rooted in 13th-century Carnival tradition, these masks were historically used to hide social status and identities, allowing total freedom and anonymity.  Today, genuine Venetian masks are made of papier mâché and hand decorated.

Wearing masks during Carnival is a centuries-long tradition here

The masks were all so pretty, I was tempted to buy one as a souvenir.  However, I had no use for it at home, and didn't want to tote it around for the entire length of my 3-week trip.

Not a mask, but a beautiful work of art

Gondola landing

Building reflection in the canal

This canal bridge had many steps

Leaning Campanile Bell Tower of Santo Stefano

As we were walking around, Kim noticed a tall bell tower that rose higher than the surrounding buildings.  The tower was noticeably tilting to one side.  Intrigued, Kim wanted to find the base of this structure, so we set out along the narrow lanes and alleys, trying to get closer.  Although my friends and I walked a circle around the tower, we couldn't seem to locate the bottom floor. 

Gondolier searching for a rider

Later research revealed that the tower is called the Campanile Bell Tower of San Stefano.  Originally constructed in the 15th century, a lightning strike leveled the tower and melted its bells.  Rebuilt in the 17th and 18th centuries, the unstable waterlogged soils that Venice sits on has caused it to lean.  Looking down one alley, I noticed the tower had some stabilizing structures attached to its base, so it appeared that the authorities were working on a solution to prevent a collapse.

I had fun watching all the gondolas

Gondola traffic jam

Arriving back at our hotel after an interesting walk around town, my friends and I were beginning to get hungry.  Debbie asked the front desk clerk to recommend a good restaurant, and again the helpful man marked up a map, pointing out two choices.  

An area where gondoliers waited for customers

Back through the crowded sidewalks and alleys we went!  Past canals full of gondolas, shops full of masks and leather goods, past crumbling, water-worn buildings and funky bridges.  Lucky for us, we located the first restaurant on the map with no difficulties.  And since it was early, there were plenty of tables free.

A beautiful stone bridge

The people in this restaurant were great.  A man enthusiastically seated us, handed my friends and I English menus, and took our drink orders.  Debbie, who had been studying Italian on Duolingo for over a year, got to try out her language skills on the waiter - with great results (me.....not so much!)

Little gardens grew on balconies

Kim and Debbie ordered spaghetti Bolognese while I tried their lasagna.  Our food came quickly, and was very tasty.  And the service was top-notch.  As we enjoyed our meal, the place began to fill up with people.  We'd arrived at the right time!

Our first genuine Italian dinner

After we'd finished our meal, and the dishes cleared from the table, our waiter offered us a small glass of limoncello - a sweet Italian lemon liqueur traditionally served as an after-dinner drink, or digestif.  So I got to experience my first taste of limoncello.  It was a bit stronger than I'd expected - but very tasty.  As my friends and stood up to leave, the restaurant owner stopped by and personally thanked us for our business.  What a great experience for our first night in Italy!

 

A bit of limoncello to end our meal

Jet lag, food, and alcohol had taken their toll - it was only 7:30 in the evening, but I was plumb tuckered out.  My friends and I headed back to our hotel to turn in early.  We had another full day in Venice before our tour began, and tomorrow had reservations to visit some of Venice's most popular sights - the Doge Palace and St. Mark's Basilica.

Stick around for day two!