Return to Hardy Ridge

It was early December and after a few days of rain, a dry day was predicted.  With no snow in the mountains yet, skiing wasn't happening.  Itching to get in some sort of outdoor activity I decided to go for a hike in the Columbia River Gorge.  Not wanting to drive very far, I picked my favorite standby, the Hardy Ridge Trail.  Climbing a respectable 2400 feet in elevation over about four miles it takes hikers to a wide open ridge with outstanding views of the Columbia River and Mt. Hood.

Moss-covered trees and Columbia River view

Hardy Ridge was a place I used to visit often.  As a matter of fact, in 2022 I set a bunch of hiking goals, one being to hike this trail once a month throughout the year (sadly a bad case of plantar fasciitis put a stop to that.)  Post injury, my hiking here was quite sporadic, and due to fitness and time issues, I hadn't made it to the top of the ridge in quite awhile.  Maybe today was the day? 

The Hardy Ridge trail sign rests against a large rock

However, there was one important thing I'd forgotten to factor into my planned hike - wind.  Due to the nature of the steep cliffs rising from river level, air currents are funneled through this narrow opening, making the Columbia River Gorge notorious for being a windy place.  Although I'd consulted the weather forecast the night before, I'd neglected to notice anything beyond the lack of precipitation.

Wispy fog creeps between the trees

So imagine my surprise when I was greeted by strong gusts after pulling into the parking lot.  From previous experience I knew the gales would just get stronger as I gained elevation.  Hmmm....this might put a damper on my plans to reach the top of Hardy Ridge.  But I was already here and really needed some outdoor time.  Deciding to go as far uphill as I could, the new plan was to cut my hike short and retreat back into the forest if the wind was too strong. 

Clearing skies up on Phlox Point

The first 2 1/2 miles of the hike was a pleasant climb through thick fir woods along a series of abandoned roads.  Then the trail steepened and transitioned to a traditional narrow path as it wound uphill.  Huffing and puffing, I slowly made my way towards Hardy Ridge, buffeted by an occasional gust of wind.

Mount Hood peeking out between the clouds

About a half mile before the ridgetop there was a junction, marked by a sign (which today for some reason had been knocked down and placed against a large rock.)  Hikers could either continue uphill to Hardy Ridge or descend via another trail.  Decision time - should I continue on?

Looking across the valley to Table Mountain

Although the wind was still blowing quite strongly, I reasoned it wasn't too bad.  I'd certainly dealt with much higher gusts in past hikes.  Why not go a bit farther?  

Now I can see Mt. Hood!

So up the steep, scrambly trail I went.  I immediately became engulfed in a thick fog bank.  It was surprising to see fog when the winds were blowing so strongly.  (Don't winds usually blow clouds away?)  However I'd hoped to take in some of the marvelous views Hardy Ridge is known for - it didn't look like I'd get to see much today.

After passing through a small mountain meadow, the trail followed the crest of a rock outcropping.  Totally exposed, the wind was especially ferocious here.  But I hurried across and quickly dipped down into a small forested area, where the trees offered a shield from the gusts.  From the forest I alternated between clearings and brushy areas.  Although the wind was still raging, it didn't feel dangerously strong.

 A closer view

Finally the trail emerged out of the trees for the last time and began to follow the rocky spine of Hardy Ridge.  There was one final climb, a steep talus slope took hikers to Phlox Point, the highest and most scenic part of the ridge.  Picking my way through the large boulders of this slope, I realized the fog was beginning to lift.  Looking back, I could see wisps of fog streaming through the forest.  It was such an impressive sight, I just had to capture several images.

I spotted a few sundogs shining through the fog

After a lot of slow ascent, I finally reached the very top of Phlox Point and was ecstatic to find the fog had pretty much lifted at this elevation.  Looking across the Columbia River, I could see clouds still swirling around Mt. Hood, and she peeked in and out of their foggy curtains.  But it appeared to be clearing not only around the mountain but also in the valleys below me.

Lunch views

As I walked across the final ridge, searching for a wind-sheltered lunch spot, I was delighted to notice several sun dogs shimmering through the faint fog below me.  That's not something you see every day!

The mighty Columbia River shining in the afternoon sun

Sitting on the leeward side of a few stunted bushes, I enjoyed a relatively wind-free lunch, while taking in the views below.  As I ate, the fog began clearing away until I could see both Mt. Hood and the entire Columbia River Gorge unobscured.

More impressive sunbeams

My trip back down was absolutely delightful.  I was treated to the expansive views of the Gorge that I'd missed on my way up.  Mt. Hood emerged from the clouds, shiny white after receiving a tiny bit of snowfall.  As I once again entered the forest, sunlight streamed through the tree branches, creating more colorful sundogs.  And now quite used to being blown around, the wind didn't bother me in the least.  But sunset comes early in December, and after getting a late start on my hike, I had to hustle back down the trail in order to make it to my car before dark.  (Don't worry, I did!)

Quiet forest road

A successful hike!  Not only had I braved the less-than-ideal weather, I'd finally made it all the way up to the very top of Hardy Ridge.  And it was a great day to be outside.  The total milage came to 9 miles and 2400 feet of elevation gain.  I'd be sore and tired the following day, but totally worth it.