Artsy Oslo

 (A multi-part recap of my early June Scandinavia trip.)

Today it was all about Oslo!

On the tenth day of my Rick Steves Scandinavia tour my friends and I awoke in this beautiful Norwegian capital city.  On the agenda was a morning tour of the city, followed by a free afternoon and evening for further exploration.

Norwegian Parliament building

After a hearty breakfast courtesy of our hotel's ginormous buffet, my tour group assembled on the sidewalk outside and were introduced to Aksel, our local guide for the morning walking tour.  Aksel immediately led us to the Norwegian Parliament building, which conveniently was only a block away. 

C.J. Hambro, a past Parliament president

A beautiful grass-covered plaza was located in front of the Parliament building, and it was here that we all gathered.  The building was quite impressive - constructed of light yellow brick, it had a semicircular center section flanked by two rectangular wings.  Two large lion statues were located on either end of the grand staircases that led visitors to the main door.  In addition to lawn and colorful flowers, the plaza also featured five statues of famous Norwegian legislators.  Aksel told us when the flag is flying above the building, Parliament is in session.

Grand Hotel, host of the Nobel Peace Prize banquet

Across the street from the north end of the Parliament Building's plaza, was a large white hotel.  Aksel said it was called the Grand Hotel, and had the distinction of hosting the Nobel Peace Prize banquet.  Many famous dignitaries and Peace Prize winners have stayed here, including former president Obama.

Karl Johan Hotel

After our look at the Parliament building, Aksel led us across a street, past another hotel and followed a couple of park-like city blocks that paralleled a main street called Karl Johans Gate.  The man was tall and had such long legs, it was a struggle for some of us to keep up with him.  Of course, it didn't help, I was stopping and taking photos along the way.  As per usual, I brought up the rear of our group.

National Theater

The next stop on our Oslo walking tour was the National Theater building.  Built with light orange bricks and granite accents, it was a handsome structure.  Two large statues were sited prominently at each side of the main entrance, honoring Henrick Ibsen and Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson, two of the most influential and famous Norwegian playwrights.

Famous Norwegian playwrights

Aksel mentioned that there was a bitter rivalry between Ibsen and Bjørnson.  Neither man wanted the other to have their names on the National Theater building.  The compromise was to feature both playwrights.  That was why the two statues were sited on opposite ends of the building entrance.

Henrik Ibsen statue

Three names were carved into the granite above the large second floor windows.  The first two were of course Ibsen and Bjørnson, but the third honored Ludvig Holberg, a famous Norwegian and Danish writer, who is considered to be the founder of modern Danish and Norwegian literature.

Beautiful gardens outside of the National Theater

After admiring the National Theater, our group continued down the Karl Johans Gate, following more of the park-like blocks.  I really liked the colorful flower garden on one side of the theater building.

Gunnar Sønsteby statue

A block further down the street, Aksel stopped by a sculpture of a man standing with a bicycle.  This statue honored Gunnar Sønsteby, who was an active member of the Norwegian resistance during World War II.  He spied for the British Army and performed acts of sabotage against Nazi invaders.  After the war, he became the most highly decorated citizen in Norway, the only person to be awarded the War Cross with three swords, Norway's highest military decoration. 

Oslo University Law Library

Across the street from the Gunnar Sønsteby statue was a handsome building made of beige brick.  This was the first building for what later became Oslo University.  The building currently housed the law library.  Aksel also mentioned one of Edvard Munch's paintings, called "The Sun" could be found inside.  (More about this later.)

The Norwegian Royal Palace

Beyond Oslo University, Karl Johans Gate dead ended into an enormous park.  A wide concrete walkway continued through this park in the same alignment as the street.  Far ahead, we could see a large, stately building.  Aksel said this was the Norwegian Royal Palace, where Norway's royal family lived.

View down the street leading to the Palace

We learned Norway is constitutional and hereditary monarchy.  The current king, Harald V, has reigned since January 1991.  The heir apparent is Harald's son Crown Prince Haakon.  Norway's king doesn't hold any political power.  His role is largely symbolic and ceremonial, serving as a symbol of national unity.  

Mandatory palace selfie

Another interesting tidbit of information from Aksel - every year on May 17th Norway celebrates Constitution Day, a national holiday honoring the 1814 signing of Norway's constitution (the third oldest written constitution still in use.)  Cities all over the country celebrate with large children's parades.  Oslo's children's parade includes young people from 100 schools, complete with marching bands and waving flags.  This massive procession of children is routed past the Royal Palace, where monarchy members greet participants from the main balcony.  And these children all march without any adult supervision.

Karl Johan Monument

Like all the buildings we'd visited so far that morning, the Royal Palace was also an impressive structure.  Made of bright yellow brick, six tall columns framed the floors above the main entry.  A large paved plaza fanned out from the building's entrance, featuring a statue of Karl Johan astride a horse in the center.  Karl Johan (also known as Charles XIV John) was the king of Sweden and Norway from 1818 until 1844, and is the first monarch of Norway's royal family.

Tourists taking photos of the palace guards

Many uniformed military guards stood watch spaced around the Royal Palace.  These young men (they looked to all be male) stood at stern attention, each toting a serious-looking assault rifle complete with bayonet.  Not anyone to mess with!  I was amused, however, to see many tourists pointing their cameras at the guards, even taking selfies with them in the background.

Queen Maud statue

Aksel led our group to a garden-like area off to one side of the Royal Palace.  Here amongst beds of vibrant flowers was another large statue.  This one honored Queen Maud, the first modern queen of Norway.  

Our local guide Aksel in action

In 1905, when the union of Norway and Sweden dissolved, the new Norwegian government chose Prince Carl of Denmark as their new king.  Married to a lady named Maud, Carl changed his name to King Haakon VII.  The new king and queen fast became adored by the Norwegian people.  Maud championed charities that cared for children and animals, but also was a champion of women's rights and the welfare of unmarried women.

This empty guard booth looked like a good photo op.....

After our brief history lesson on Queen Maud, Aksel led our group back past the Royal Palace.  On our way to the palace's back side, I spotted an empty guard booth next to the fence.  It looked to be a good photo op for Lotti and myself.  A rope was strung across the entrance, so I knew enough not to go inside.  But surely it wouldn't hurt to stand just outside the booth for a quick snapshot.  After asking Debbie and Kim to get a picture of me, I walked over to the little booth and began to strike a pose.

The photo that got me in trouble

Whatever I did got the nearby palace guard riled.  He started yelling at me - it was in Norwegian so I couldn't understand what he was saying - but by the tone of his voice, it was clear I wasn't supposed to be there.  Nina hastily motioned for me to leave immediately.  She didn't have to ask twice.  I hightailed it back to the tour group as quick as I could.  (Besides being extremely angry, that guard had a gun!)  The incident happened so fast Kim didn't have time to get a photo - but Debbie did.  So now I have photographic evidence of my lawbreaking action at the Norwegian Royal Palace.

There was a gorgeous park behind the Royal Palace

After the guard booth incident, I was more than happy to leave the Royal Palace behind.  Our group followed Aksel past the rear of the palace into yet another beautiful wooded park.  Two large ponds were sited on either side of a wide sidewalk.  Tall, stately trees provided a green canopy. 

Tour group reflections

Our group was led past one of the ponds to an open area.  Here was yet another statue, this one of Queen Sonja.

Queen Sonja statue

Married to the reigning king, Harald V, Sonja is the current queen of Norway.  Her story is an interesting one.  She dated Harald for nine years prior to their marriage in 1968.  Because of Sonja's status as a commoner, their relationship was kept a secret.  However, Harald's father soon relented, and allowed the marriage.

Lotti and I liked Queen Sonja

Queen Sonja sounded like my kind of woman.  She's an avid photographer, loves skiing, and is a keen hiker.  This particular sculpture, unveiled for Sonja's 80th birthday, was a gift from the Norwegian Trekking Association.  It portrayed Sonja dressed in hiking attire, sitting on a rock with a backpack by her side.

Lotti taking a break with a Norwegian "Kit Kat"

Aksel used this statue as a convenient segue into the importance of the great outdoors to the Norwegian people.  They consider outdoor activities a fundamental part of their culture.  There is even a term for this - "friluftsliv" or open-air living.  This tradition encourages year-round communing with nature, from winter sports like skiing to summer activities such as hiking, fishing, and boating.  Norwegians believe spending time outdoors is a key to happiness.

Palace reflections in the pond

Continuing with the outdoor theme, Aksel then handed out Norwegian chocolate bars called "Kvikk Lunsj."  Apparently the name translates to "quick lunch" in English.  These candy bars are beloved across Norway and the name synonymous with outdoor activities.  It's a tradition to carry one of these in your pocket during a hike or ski trip.  This candy looked like the Kit Kat bars from the US, but Aksel was quick to point out that the Norwegian version was much better.

(Coincidentally, just today I found this interesting article about Kvikk Lunsj bars and their importance to Norway.  If you'd like to read it, click here.) 

Norwegian Nobel Institute

After our candy bar break, Askel herded us toward the main transit street.  We were going to take the streetcar to our next stop, which was otherwise a bit of a trek.  The nearest place to catch the streetcar was a few blocks away.  Enroute, we passed by the Norwegian Nobel Institute, a neat, modern-looking building with a colorful flower garden.  I had just enough time to snap two photos, before running to catch up.

A real phone booth!

About this time, the clouds that had hovered all morning decided it was time to let loose.  The rain just made us all hurry to the streetcar faster.  We passed by a relic that I thought was from a bygone era - a telephone booth.  And it still had a phone inside!

Taking the streetcar to our next stop

Arriving at the chosen streetcar stop, our group had to wait in the rain for a few minutes.  To our relief, the train finally arrived and we happily ducked inside to escape the shower.  It was nice to get a break from the weather, if only for a short time.

FDR statue

Thankfully, by the time we arrived at our destination, the rain had stopped.  We piled out at the intersection of the Oslo harbor and another park area.  Aksel pointed out a statue of the US president Franklin Delano Roosevelt perched above the sidewalk.  Why was there a statue of an American president here in Oslo?  It was erected in gratitude for the safe refuge the US gave to members of the Norwegian royal family during World War II.  This included then-young prince Harald, who is now Norway's king.

Our walk took us by Oslo's waterfront

From the FDR statue our city walk continued along the east side of Oslo's harbor.  I marveled at the beautiful boats we passed that were tied up at the many docks.

Looking back on the city core

There were also some good views of downtown Oslo's city core.  This was the area we'd walked through the previous evening.

A beautiful ship

Since our group had been in motion now for nearly two hours, it was high time for a restroom break.  Luckily, there were a set of public "WC's" located at the harbor's end.

Lotti found a troll by the restrooms

Apparently trolls are a big thing in Norway.  There was a sculpture of a big, ugly one sitting outside the restroom doors.  But Lotti wasn't scared!

Selfie along the waterfront (with an Alicia photobomb)

While waiting for everyone to finish their break, I looked uphill from the harbor area and noticed an old brick castle-like building perched on a nearby hill.  This was Akershus Fortress, our tour's next stop.

Walking up to Akershus Fortress

I love old castles, and couldn't wait to check out this fortress.  Our break over, Aksel led us across the street and up a steep path that took us through a tunnel.  On the other side of a thick fortified wall sat an inner courtyard and two large brick buildings.

Entrance through a tunnel

Akershus Fortress was a medieval castle built to protect and provide a royal residence for the city of Oslo.  Construction of this castle is believed to have started sometime in the late 1290s.  This fortress has successfully survived all sieges, except in World War II when it was surrendered to Nazi Germany.

Restored cannons

Currently some the Akershus Fortress complex is used as a modern headquarters for the Ministry of Defense.  Also, it houses the Royal Mausoleum, and the Prime Minister's office is located nearby.

Lotti checking out the view

In the courtyard area, a row of old cannons were set up, their barrels pointing towards the harbor, as they would've been in olden times.  

Akershus Fortress was impressive!

The castle building and stone walls surrounding it had some amazing stonework.  A few bushes bloomed with pink flowers.  It was all very photogenic.

Pink blooming bushes

The stonework was amazing

From our high perch, the view of Oslo's harbor was simply spectacular, despite the day's cloudy, gloomy weather.

Excellent harbor views from the fortress

After taking in the views, and many photographs, our group walked through another opening in the wall and past the rear side of the fortress.  

Backside of Akershus Fortress

Below the fortress were a bunch of colorful barrack buildings.

Buildings behind the fortress

I thought some of the best views of the Akershus Fortress were from its backside.  

"Glory Glory with Crutches" statue

Behind Akershus Fortress was another small park honoring Norway's military.  One notable statue was of a war veteran with only one leg hobbling on crutches shouldering several heavy bags.  Called "Glory Glory with Crutches" this statue is of a female solider who's returned from a war missing a leg.  The heavy bags symbolize her weighted down with the burdens of life.  This piece is supposed to represent the lasting impact war has on soldiers and civilians alike.

Oslo's East Harbor

With the morning's brief rain shower now done, the clouds started to lift and it began to get warm.  But our tour was on the homestretch.  Our final stop was Oslo's East Harbor, just a short walk from Akershus Fortress.  

Oslo Opera House

The East Harbor boasted many attractions, boat tours, floating saunas, a Ferris wheel, the Munch Museum, but the most popular of them all was Oslo's unique Opera House.

Another view of this unusual building

The Opera House was a striking white building that seemed to slope up from the harbor's waters.  The main building was enclosed by a large, lovely blue glass window.  The building's roof and sloped sides were often used as a public plaza, and visitors were allowed to walk all over it.  It was the coolest, most different building I'd ever seen.  I couldn't wait for our tour to be over so I could go check it out.

Floating saunas 

Along one side of the harbor wall were several floating wooden buildings.  These were floating saunas.  Very popular with Norwegians, sitting in a sauna followed by a plunge into cold harbor waters was a local tradition.

  

Floating saunas appeared to be very popular

At the harbor's edge near the floating saunas is where our morning tour ended.  We all bid Aksel farewell and thank you.  Then guide Nina set us free to do our own exploring in Oslo.

The Opera House sloped down into the harbor

Kim, Debbie, Alicia and myself had already decided we wanted to visit the nearby Munch Museum that afternoon.  By now it was a bit past noon, and I was famished.  We all decided to head over to the museum, grab some lunch in the cafeteria, and then check the place out.

Walking to the Munch Museum

The Munch Museum was located behind the Oslo Opera House.  My friends and I walked along a wide, brick path that followed a lovely waterway.  Boats were tied up along the shore and the surrounding bank area was nicely landscaped.

Museum selfie!

The Munch Museum was also a unique building.  It was built with the upper floors tilted over the lower portion of the structure.  Such a different design, it certainly made the building stand out!  I later read it was completed and opened to the public in 2021, only four years ago.

Pretty flowers and Ferris wheel

Across from the Munch Museum was a tall Ferris wheel.  It looked like one could get some nice views of the harbor from atop the wheel, so my friends and I all agreed we'd take a ride after finishing our visit at the Munch Museum.

On the bridge by the Munch Museum

Edvard Munch was a Norwegian painter best known for his most famous work "The Scream," one of the most iconic images in all of Western art.  One of the first works of Expressionist art, this painting had much influence fueling the Expressionist movement.  Upon his death in 1944, Munch left his entire collection of artwork to the city of Oslo.  The Munch Museum is the largest art museum in the world dedicated to a single artist.

"Anxiety"

After getting entrance tickets, while Alicia and Kim went to leave their backpacks in a locker, Debbie and I decided to check out the cafe.  So very hungry, I didn't bother waiting for my friends and quickly jumped into line.  For a museum cafe, it had a large selection of items and the food was surprisingly good. 

"Red Virginia Creeper"

Once my friends and I had satisfied our hunger, it was time to check out the Munch Museum.  We rode a series of escalators to the fourth floor, where some of Edvard Munch's paintings were on display.

"Galloping Horse" - my personal favorite

I'm nowhere close to an art expert, but I have to say this museum was well done.  An interesting and varied selection of Munch's paintings were displayed here.  Many of Munch's paintings followed similar themes - the backgrounds were waves of colorful stripes (which I liked) and many of the people appeared to have the same horrified expressions as the person in "The Scream."  My favorite painting, however, was of a galloping horse.  I liked the background colors and the detail on the horse.

There are three different versions of "The Scream"

In the middle of the floor was a walled-off area.  Inside the light was very dim.  This was where "The Scream" was exhibited.  First painted in 1893, Munch eventually created five versions of this famous work of art; two in paint, two in pastel, and one a lithograph stone.  To protect the artwork from degradation, every thirty minutes the museum rotated the display with the pastel, paint, and lithograph versions of "The Scream."

Munch's most famous painting, "The Scream"

There was a short line of people waiting to see "The Scream."  Nearly all of them stopped and took a few phone photos of the painting (as did I.)  It was exciting to see such a popular and iconic work of art up close and in person.  

"Starry Night"

In researching for this blog post, I learned that Munch's inspiration for "The Scream" came during an evening walk along a nearby fjord.  The setting sun turned clouds in the sky blood read which made him feel anxious.  Munch said he "sensed an infinite scream passing through nature."

"Death and the Child"

Another one of Munch's works that moved me was a painting called "Death and the Child."  It depicted a young girl standing next to her mother's deathbed.  Having lost his mother and sister to tuberculosis when he was young, Munch was familiar with the emotions displayed in this image.

So many paintings to see!

Another floor had a few more Munch paintings on display.  One room featured three enormous canvases.  My favorite of the three was a painting called "The Sun" which I'd just learned this morning was specifically created for Oslo University's Law Library (remember earlier in the post when I mentioned this?)  This particular painting displayed in the Munch Museum was a duplicate.

I also liked "The Sun" - the painting to the left

Another floor of the museum displayed some of Munch's personal items and through lots of interactive displays we learned about his life.  Like many artists, Munch suffered from mental health issues and excessive drinking.

The museum's top two floors were all glass

After seeing all the paintings on display in the Munch Museum, my friends and I decided to check out the view from the building's very top floor.  We heard there was a patio and bar on the rooftop.

The views were superb!

One floor below the roof was a large glassed-in observation area.  Wow, were the city views incredible from this 12th-story perch!

Oslo had many unusual buildings

Here's a sample of what I saw.....I have to say Oslo has the most unique architecture on some of their buildings.  This city has art everywhere!

These gray apartments were interesting

Ferris wheel and Opera House

The building's upper floors were slanted

The other interesting thing about the Munch Museum building - because it's upper floors were slanted outward, it was a bit unsettling to stand right next to these tilted windows.  It almost felt as if you were going to plummet down the side of the building.

Having a drink on the top floor

After our 12th floor photo session, my friends and I made our way to the rooftop bar.  It had a nice outdoor seating area and the views were nothing short of amazing.  As a matter of fact, we could see so much of Oslo, my friends and I agreed we could skip the ride on next door's Ferris wheel.  Everyone enjoyed a fancy drink while we rested our legs.

The gang's all here!

On our way out of the museum, Debbie happened to notice the cafe was selling some custom made cookies depicting Munch's famous painting.  We almost bought one - but then noticed the cookies were gluten free.  Instead, Debbie took a photo (it lasts longer anyway!)

Scream cookies in the museum snack bar

My friends and I also made a stop at the museum's gift shop.  I really wanted to take home a "Scream" t-shirt, and Kim was looking for a bag with the same image.  But we didn't find anything we liked, plus all the merchandise was really expensive.  So we left the Munch Museum empty handed.

"She Lies" sculpture in Oslo's Inner Harbor

Now it was time to check out Munch's next door neighbor, the Oslo Opera House.  From the museum, my friends and I followed a wide sidewalk that merged into the Opera House's white granite exterior.

At the Opera House

We stood on Opera House's sloped front and took in the harbor views.  Then it was time for a bunch of photo ops.

Opera House photo op

Kim and I tried to recreate this photo

Completed in 2008, this stunning building has won prizes for its unique architecture.  Inside its white granite and marble facade is a state-of-the-art main theater with room for a 99-piece orchestra.  The outer plazas formed by the front, sides and rooftop are all meant to be walked upon.

Climbing up the Opera House

And walk upon is what Kim, Debbie and I decided to do!  Alicia was having knee issues, so she opted to sit near the waterfront and wait our return.  Armed with our phones and my big camera, my friends and I began walking up one of the steep inclined sides to the Opera House roof.

It was a steep climb!

The windows that formed the "box" portion of the Opera House were made of glass that reflected the surrounding scenery.  From far away, these windows appeared blue.

Harbor view from the Opera House roof

The views from the Opera House roof were as grand as I'd expected.  In one direction, you could see the adjacent Ferris wheel and harbor. 

And another selfie!

In the opposite direction, the tops of adjacent tall buildings popped over the roof.  Some of these structures had very interesting exteriors.  Again, art was everywhere in Oslo!

Interesting adjacent building facades

Top of the Opera House looking towards the Inner Harbor

After getting our fill of views from the roof, and taking more than our share of photos, it was time to climb back down the other side, and reunite with Alicia.  Luckily, there was a narrow staircase here for those that didn't want to navigate the building's steep side slope.

Heading back down the other side

Another unusual feature of the Opera Building - the main window panel had several human forms sticking out of the glass.  I'd never seen sculptures displayed in this manner.  It was quite different - and a little weird!

  

Sculptures sticking out of the Opera House's glass windows

A very interesting place for art!

Of course, I had to get a photo of myself testing out the reflectiveness of the exterior glass!

Capturing my reflection on the Opera House

Even though we'd enjoyed our tour around the Opera House's exterior, my friends and I also wanted to see its interior.  We weren't sure if visitors were allowed inside, or if an admission was charged.  So we decided to just try the door and see what happened.  It opened!  Upon walking inside, it appeared visitors were free to look around as long as no performances were scheduled.

Inside the Opera House

Inner view of the large window and sculptures

The Opera House interior was as spectacular - some of the walls were covered in oak paneling while others were white.  It was interesting to see the large glass window and sculptures from the inside.

Taking a breather

My friends and I took this opportunity to use the nearby restroom and relax a moment on the padded benches.

Unusual building near the Opera House

Then we decided to swing by a nearby Starbucks.  Debbie collected the city mugs and wanted to get one from Oslo.  Using Google maps, it directed us past a beautiful large fountain, to the train station.  But where was the Starbucks?  Although our app said we were close, all that was nearby was the station's outer walls.  It took a minute before we realized the Starbucks was inside the train station.  It housed an entire shopping mall in there!

Lovely fountain near the train station

After a mug purchase and some coffee drinks, we emerged back onto the street.  It was nearly 5 o'clock and the sidewalks were bustling with people trying to get home.  We walked up Oslo's main shopping district and it was full of people.  After checking out one of the chain souvenir shops, my friends and I decided it was time for a break back at the hotel.

Oslo's main shopping street - it was busy!

Chain souvenir shop

There was a small convenience store on the ground floor of our hotel.  Kim and I decided we needed to get a couple snacks for tomorrow's bus ride, so we went in to see what they had.  Kim found a brand of potato chips with her name!  Then we ran into guide Nina in the shop, and she helped me pick out a bar of local dark chocolate (everything was in Norwegian so I couldn't tell.)

Kim has her own potato chips!

Then, exhausted from our busy day, my friends and I decided instead of running all over town looking for a place to eat, we'd try out the Chinese restaurant below the hotel.  I know what you're thinking - Chinese food in Norway?  But after many days of eating the local cuisine, it actually sounded good.  When we went inside, the place was packed with Asian tour groups.  Those people knew something because the food was delicious.

Rainbow street

After forgetting my expensive Danish conditioner in the hotel on Ærø island, I was in desperate need of more.  So after dinner my friends and I went on a quest for a store that sold health and beauty products.  After an unsuccessful trip to a nearby supermarket, we found a Normal store - the ubiquitous Scandinavian H & B chain that we'd seen in every large city.  And there I found an inexpensive bottle of conditioner - I'd make doubly sure not to leave this behind anywhere!

"Normal" - a chain health and beauty store

While walking around I took in even more art - this time one of the streets had been painted in rainbow colors.  I really liked how the artist had managed to fit their colorful stripes around the streetcar tracks.  So much art everywhere in Oslo!

Oslo street scene

We ended our evening where else but at an Irish pub!  Debbie had a nose for sniffing them out in every city we visited. 

Leave it to Debbie to find an Irish pub!

I was totally impressed by my time in Oslo.  The city was beautiful and so full of amazing works of art.  It was everywhere you went - outdoor sculptures, unique architecture, painted roadways, or inspiring museums honoring local artists.  I would've loved another day to further explore this wonderful modern city.  Sadly, our tour was scheduled to leave tomorrow, our next destination being the Norwegian mountains.

Join me for my next blog post as we travel further north in Norway.