Traveling Through Denmark

  (A multi-part recap of my recent Scandinavia trip.)

After enjoying sunshine and good weather the first week of our trip, this morning Kim and I awoke to heavy clouds and rain.  Good thing we were leaving Copenhagen today!  I was more than ready to leave our tiny, cramped, stuffy hotel room with the noisy bar across the street.

At breakfast my friends and I bid a quick "hello" to the second Rick Steves Scandinavia tour that was two days behind ours, and staying in the same hotel.  We'd already made a couple of friends in this group and it was fun to see them again.  Both tours wouldn't meet up again until our last day in Bergen, Norway.

Viking Ship Museum, Roskilde

After breakfast, my tour-mates and I grabbed our luggage, and walked across the street for a "precision load" into our waiting bus.  (Because there wasn't a legal parking area for tour buses, our driver used the local bus stop - so we had to load quickly!)  We were introduced to Roger who would be our bus driver for the remainder of the tour.  Roger seemed like a great guy (spoiler alert - he'd become one of my favorite RS tour bus drivers!)  As we pulled away from the rainy streets of Copenhagen I bid the city farewell - but I was ready to see more of Denmark.

Group photo by a Viking ship

After getting sick on both of our other Rick Steves tours, Kim and I decided we were going to avoid the plague by masking up on the bus rides from now on.  Already two of our tour-mates had caught colds, and we'd witnessed a couple others coughing quite a bit.  So the four of us friends, Kim, I, Debbie, and Alicia sat in the very back seats and donned masks.  I wanted to experience one tour where I didn't catch the crud!

Viking ship skeletons

Our morning's first stop was the town of Roskilde, where we'd tour both the Viking Ship Museum and the Roskilde Cathedral.  Upon arrival in town, our bus let us out in the Viking Ship Museum parking lot, and we dodged raindrops walking to it's front door.  After a brief movie about the ships we were about to see, my tour-mates and I were set free into the main floor.

Some of the salvaged old boards

The skeletons of five original Viking ships were displayed here.  Around the year 1070, these boats had been deliberately sunk in Roskilde Fjord in order to prevent easy access of enemies from the sea.  Excavated in 1962, these five became known as the Skuldelev Ships.  Each ship was determined to have had a different use, from hauling cargo to vessels of war.  These five boats, along with some of the original wood, were carefully restored in order to give visitors a close view of the Viking ship's construction.

Old ship wood close-up

It was very interesting to see the size of these Viking ships.  Some of the larger ones used for long ocean voyages had been propelled by sails, while other smaller boats would've been rowed by a team of men.  None of the vessels looked big enough to withstand the open ocean, or to house the number of men and amount of cargo needed for such a trip.  However, we all know that the Vikings successfully traveled far and wide.  In their heyday, they conquered many other countries, such as England, Iceland, eastern Europe, Greenland, and they even made it to North America well before Columbus.  On the bus this morning, our guide Nina had given us a bit of information about the Vikings and remarked that the name "Viking" was not of a people, but a job description.

Model of a Viking ship with sail

Although visitors to the museum were not allowed to touch the restored Viking ships, in another room were two replicas where you could climb around to your heart's content.  Debbie and I clambered onto one of the model boats and pretended we were off to conquer a nearby nation.

They had a life-size model ship for us big kids to play on

When we tired of playing Vikings, Debbie and I wandered into the museum's gift shop.  Instead of the usual ticky-tack stuff, it was full of all kinds of quality souvenirs.  We even found a Viking helmet for my Swiss cow Lotti!  (She wanted to be a Viking too.)

A Viking helmet for Lotti!

Outside the Viking Ship Museum was a large dock with more boats.  These were reconstructed Viking ships, and they were fascinating to see.  The museum housed about 40 of these vessels, and each summer a few of them were launched into the ocean in an attempt to learn about the Viking's seafaring ways.

Outside the museum were many rebuilt Viking ships

The boats were painted with bright colors and nearly all of them had masts for sails.

Very cool to see these operational ships

This one was very colorful!

The museum had a shipyard where people were building another Viking ship replica.  It was interesting to see the craftspeople cutting wood to just the right size and piecing it together on the ship's framework.  There was also another display area that focused on the ropes used for the sailing ships, and how those ropes were made.  It all looked very interesting, however the rain hadn't let up in the least, and I was getting pretty wet.  Also, it was just about time to get back on the bus.

A ship under construction

Our next stop was the Roskilde Cathedral, just a short distance up the street from the Viking Ship Museum.  Before touring the Cathedral, Nina said we had about 45 minutes to grab lunch from the town's downtown area, which was right next door.

Guide Nina walking towards Roskilde town square

Kim, Debbie, Alicia, and I dodged raindrops as we made our way from the bus, across a parking lot, and into the Roskilde town square.  The downtown business district was colorful and cute.  We walked past a large canopy for what appeared to be an outdoor brewery.  I liked how the canopy's message proudly proclaimed - "Probably the best beer in the world."  Sadly we didn't get to confirm their slogan.  Due to the drippy weather, the place didn't appear to be open.

Loved the message on this canopy - didn't get to try their beer, though!

Where to get a quick bite?  We four ladies started down the main cobblestone pedestrian street.  There were many choices of restaurants, but quite a few already looked really busy (between the usual lunch crowd and some of our tour-mates already inside, we didn't find a empty table in any place we tried.)

Roskilde had a cute downtown square

Alicia saw a health and beauty store, decided she needed a few more items, and ducked inside.  Kim, Debbie, and I discovered a bunch of decorated cow statues on the adjacent sidewalk, so of course we had to let Lotti visit with some of her own kind.

Some cows to keep Lotti company

The clock was ticking, and our 45 minutes was going by fast.  Not seeing anyplace that wasn't really busy, we decided to try the hot dog stand in the town square.  Scandinavian countries were known for having really good hot dogs, and we had yet to eat one.  Now was our chance!

Danish hot dogs for lunch

Our plan worked out great - not only did we get our hot dogs fast, they were really good (disclaimer - instead of a hot dog I tried the bratwurst and it was also delicious.)  The rain let up, and my friends and I were able to sit outside and enjoy our lunch.  The outdoor seating area by the hot dog stand even had small blankets to put on the chairs to keep our fannies dry.

Some friendly workers at the hot dog stand

The people working at the hot dog stand were really nice.  They posed for a photograph with Lotti and myself (and one of them even held up a couple of hot dogs for the shot!)

Flags flying on the town square

Thankfully the rain that had fallen steadily all morning seemed to have let up, and blue sky was starting to push some of the clouds away.  Just in time for a town square photo op!

Yay, it stopped raining!

After a quick trip through a nearby grocery store in search of cookies (per my request) Debbie, Kim, and I headed back across the parking lot to check out Roskilde Cathedral.  

Roskilde Cathedral spires

The Cathedral's twin spires towered high above the town square, so this local landmark wasn't hard to find. 

Roskilde Cathedral building

My friends and I walked up to the Cathedral and marveled at the gorgeous brick pattern of the exterior walls.  Designs of red and black brick decorated the outside, and a large patch of ivy covered a portion of one wall.

Close up of the fantastic brickwork

The upper story was an interesting pattern of small spires, all of varying heights.  And I just loved the large, arched window frames.

Bright colored Bishop's house

Several bright yellow buildings sat near the Cathedral's front door.  I later learned this area was where the church Bishop had lived.

The Cathedral interior was absolutely stunning!

Roskilde Cathedral is famous for housing the tombs of nearly all the Danish kings and queens.  Built between 1170 and 1280, during the Reformation its side chapels and altars were cleared and repurposed into burial chambers.  As of today, 39 Danish royals are interred here.  Because of its cultural significance, this magnificent cathedral has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Chapel of the Three Kings

Debbie was a big fan of royalty from all countries.  She knew all about the Danish monarchy's history and was a great person to tour the Cathedral with (especially since I knew next to nothing about the subject.)

King Christian III Monument

Walking into the Cathedral through a large, golden door, I was instantly blown away by the high ceilings and ornate decor climbing up the walls.  Two rows of stately wooden pews lined each side of the main aisle.  The tombs were inside separate rooms off to each side.  Which way to go first?  Debbie and I picked a direction and walked into the first chapel we came to.

The King in death sculpture on top of his grave

This first room was called "Chapel of the Three Kings."  It housed the tombs of Kings Christian III and Frederik II.  I was blown away by the ornate monuments above both tombs, which were nearly identical for each king (if not for the guide signs I wouldn't have known the difference.)  Apparently these kings were father and son, which was why their tombs had been located in the same chapel.  Intricate marble carvings surrounded each sarcophagus with stone pillars supporting an equally lavish roof.  A creepy sculpture of King Christian III in death lay on top of his tomb.

Looking towards Christian VI's tomb

The next room Debbie and I explored was the Frederik V Chapel, also known as the "White Room."  It was supposed to house Frederik V and his closest family members.  But the war with England in 1807-14 drained Denmark's coffers, so without funds to construct a new building, twelve graves were squeezed into this particular chapel.

Queen Louise of Great Britain

It was certainly cozy in the White Room!  Despite the supposed lack of funds, most of the coffins and sarcophagi in here seemed more ornate than expected.  Besides King Frederik V, other notable graves included King Christian VI and Queen Louise of Great Britain (at least those were the ones I took pictures of.)

 

Second floor views

Outside of the White Room was a staircase that led visitors to the Cathedral's upper level.  Nina had told us not to miss exploring this area, so Debbie and I eagerly climbed up.

Impressive organ

We ran into Kim on the second level, enjoying the Cathedral floor's view from on high.

View of the Royal Box

It was definitely worth climbing the stairs!  I gaped at the view below, from the shining wood pews, to the beautiful organ, to ornate royal boxes perched off the second floor balconies.

Upstairs view looking back towards the altar

I could've spent a lot of time on the second level.  But we had only a mere 45 minutes to explore the entire cathedral, so Debbie and I returned to the first level, hoping to make it through the rest of the burial chapels.

Graves of the Cathedral founders were on the altar

Adjacent to the staircase was the high altar.  Another change from the Reformation, this area was repurposed to house the graves of the Roskilde Cathedral founders.  By order of King Christian V in 1689, the altar was cleared of Catholic furnishings to create space for the opulent sarcophagi of the founders, including Christian V's own grave.  The earliest tombs dating back to the years 987, 1073, and 1076, these graves were moved from their original sites to be placed here.

Christian V sarcophagus

Nine extremely opulent marble sarcophagi sat on the former high altar site.  Some of the sculptures were rather macabre, especially the ones with skulls.

Intricate carvings on the walls surrounding the altar

I did enjoy the ornate artwork surrounding the high altar area.  The walls above were full of intricate carvings of what I assume were Bible stories.

Amazing oak altarpiece

The altarpiece that stood upright in front of the coffins was also amazing.  Made in Antwerp around 1560, it was made of oak and painted gold.  Depictions of the birth, death, and resurrection of Jesus were carved in exquisite detail among 21 separate panels.

Margrete I sarcophagus

Off to one side of the altar lay the sarcophagus of Queen Margrete I.  She reigned from the 1380s until her death in 1412.  Her son and elder brother were in line to rule the country, but when both died, she took over the Danish throne.  Her claim to fame was uniting all three Scandinavian countries (Sweden, Norway and Denmark) in what was then known as the Kalmar Union.

Margrete I effigy on top of her grave

Margrete I's beautiful blue and white sarcophagus was easily my most favorite burial monument in Roskilde Cathedral.  The pedestal base was covered with detailed sculptures of what looked like religious figures.  Her likeness was portrayed in the effigy sculpture on top of the grave, complete with a golden crown.

More amazing artwork

As I wandered to the Cathedral's opposite wall to see the next set of chapels, I couldn't help but stop and marvel (and also photograph!) some of the amazing wood carvings that adorned the walls and benches.

I loved the carvings in these benches

The next chapel was the grandest of them all.  This one was reserved for King Christian IV, Denmark's most famous king.  I'd visited his summer castle yesterday in Copenhagen.  (See my previous post.)

King Christian IV's chapel

And the chapel was grand indeed - befitting to this famous monarch.  Huge paintings hung on all four walls.  Ornate metalwork decorated one large arched opening.  The room was painted in a range of bright colors, including a red and white tiled floor.  A huge sculpture of the king himself stood at the entrance.  

Sculptures on top of coffins

Five ornate coffins stood in this room, all containing family members of Christian IV.

Christian VI coffin

Of course the most ostentatious coffin of them all belonged to none other than Christian IV.  When doing research for this post, I read that the king had an impressive sarcophagus monument made for himself, only to have it burn down a year before his death. 

Giant painting on one wall

Time was fast running out, so Debbie and I hustled to see one more chapel.  This one didn't hold a deceased monarch - yet.  A pretty chapel with colorfully painted walls had been reserved for the most recent Queen of Denmark, Margrethe II.  She ruled until January 24, 2024 before abdicating the throne to her son, Frederik X.  Her burial monument had already been designed, however it was currently covered by a large pink box, not be be revealed to the public until her death.

 

Chapel where Margrethe II will be buried

I thoroughly enjoyed my whirlwind tour of Roskilde Cathedral.  Who thought seeing tombs of dead monarchs would be so interesting?  I learned a lot about Danish royalty, even though after seeing so many tombs, all those king and queen names got jumbled around in my brain.  Like so many of the places visited on Rick Steves tours, I just wish I'd had more time to explore it fully.

Historic grave markers on the Cathedral floor

Kim, Debbie, and I hotfooted it over to our waiting bus.  Nearly all of our tour-mates had made it on board in time, except for one - our friend and traveling companion Alicia.  We'd crossed paths several times in the Cathedral, so we suspected she was still inside.  Nina, having to keep us on schedule to catch a 4 pm ferry, said if she didn't show up soon, we'd have to leave without her.  After Kim and Debbie made a series of frantic texts and phone calls, Alicia, who'd lost track of time in the Cathedral, (no blame, there was so much to see) hurried to the bus.  Whew - crisis adverted!

Leaving Svendborg on the ferry to Ærøskøbing

Now my tour-mates and I settled in for the long drive to the town of Svendborg, where we'd catch a ferry to our day's final destination, the Danish vacation island of Ærø.

Marina on Svendborg

During long bus rides, the Rick Steves guides always do a great job of keeping their tour group entertained.  Nina was no exception.  During the trip to Svendborg, she spoke over the intercom, providing a wealth of information about Denmark, presented in an interesting and humorous fashion.  You could tell she was an experienced guide - Nina had her facts and stories down pat.  After a bit of taking, she gave us a rest from her voice and walked down the aisle passing out more treats, this time plump Danish strawberries she'd purchased at a market in Roskilde.  It was strawberry season in Denmark, and these berries were at peak ripeness.  Although I'm very partial to Oregon strawberries and think they the best, these Danish variety were a very close second.

My friends enjoying the view

We traveled past acres of flat, rural Danish countryside.  Most looked like it was farmed or used as pastures for stock.  At one point our bus traveled across a long bridge spanning the Baltic Sea between two of the larger Danish islands.  Finally we rolled into the maritime city of Svendborg and pulled up at the ferry terminal.  The only way to reach Ærø island was via this ferry boat.

Another view of Svendborg

The ferry was huge!  In addition to passengers, it also accommodated vehicles, even ones the size of our tour bus.  Driver Roger expertly guided his bus into the belly of the ferry's auto bay.  Once all vehicles had been loaded and secured, we were free to leave the bus and and go upstairs to the passenger waiting area.  The trip from Svendborg to Ærøskøbing, the main town on Ærø island, was scheduled to take one hour 15 minutes.

The ferry passing under a tall bridge

I couldn't wait to get up on the ferry's outside deck to capture photos of our journey.  By now the morning's clouds and rain had cleared away nicely, and blue dominated the sky.  However, once on deck I soon found it to be quite windy outside.  Of course that wasn't about to stop me from taking advantage of so many great photo ops!

Bridge view from underneath

As the ferry left Svendborg, we passed under a tall highway bridge, which gave some great views of its underside.

Wind-blown selfie

And a selfie with Lotti, of course!

Passing the ferry heading to Svendborg

As we motored out of Svendborg harbor, our boat was passed by another ferry going in the opposite direction, presumably heading back from Ærø island into town. 

Goodbye other ferry!

I really liked how all the boats in Europe flew their country's flag from the rear deck.  I tried to get a good photo of the Danish flag unfurling in the wind.  With such strong gusts, you'd think it would be easy, but I had quite a time getting the perfect shot.  (See the other ferry just below the flag?)

Enjoying drinks on deck

In the meantime, Kim, Debbie, and Alicia had discovered the ferry's snack bar, and secured some local brews.  When I saw their liquid refreshments, I hurried inside to purchase one of my own.  In my haste to get back out, I grabbed the only brand of beer that was non-alcoholic.  Oh well, I probably didn't need more alcohol anyway.

My favorite photo of the trip!

The above image is my favorite of the entire trip.  Debbie, Kim, and I decided to take a selfie toasting our beers.  I'm really terrible at positioning my phone in selfie mode, so to compensate I always set a five second timer which gives me enough time to get the shot right.  I'd just started the timer on my phone, and we'd all struck our poses, when someone said "I wonder where Alicia went?"  At that very minute, when my phone had counted down to one second, Alicia poked her head up behind us, and managed to get in the picture.  Our expressions of surprise and laughter tell it all!

Escaping the wind inside the ferry

After awhile the strong wind got to all of us, and one by one my friends migrated to the ferry's inside waiting area.  Of course, I was the last to leave, and once downstairs discovered Kim and Debbie hanging out in the little kids play area.  Empty of people (even kids), they said it was the only place that wasn't so crowded.

Hanging out on board with our tour-mates

Eventually, my friends and I left the kiddie room and hung out with a few of our other tour-mates who'd scored tables and chairs next to one of the large ferry windows.  The rest of the ride passed by quickly and before we knew it, we could see Ærø island and the dock of Ærøskøbing coming into view.  Time to return to the bus!

Kim and I's very cute room in Ærøskøbing

Once docked and unloaded, Roger steered the bus along the main roads heading towards our hotel for the next two evenings.  The town of Ærøskøbing was absolutely adorable!  This sleepy little village seemed straight out of a fairy tale.  It's small, colorful ancient cottages were are well preserved, and every yard seemed to be growing beautiful flowers.  

Checking out the hotel area

Because the bus couldn't navigate the narrow streets closer to Ærøskøbing's town square, Roger parked a couple blocks away from our hotel.  We all drug our suitcases over rough cobblestone streets to our next home-away-from home, a very cute guesthouse.  Kim and I's room was enormous - we had three separate rooms, a bedroom, generous bathroom, and a living room with two comfortable chairs, tables, and reading lamps.  After enduring the microscopic hotel room in Copenhagen for the past three nights, Kim and I were in heaven!  The guesthouse grounds were beautifully landscaped and we had a view of the town's church steeple from our doorway.  The hotel's proprietor even came out and personally welcomed us. 

Church view from our hotel

Having a little bit of time before our next scheduled event, my friends and I were keen to get out and explore some of this cute island town.  So we dumped our luggage in our rooms, and I of course grabbed my camera.

Ærøskøbing town square

Our hotel was directly adjacent to the main town square, a large cobblestoned area dominated by a huge shade tree.  Lots of benches and tables were located here.  All the surrounding buildings were so old and quaint.  I later learned that construction of modern structures was prohibited in this historic town center.

 

The buildings had so many interesting doors!

Debbie, having been here once before on a previous Rick Steves tour, told me I'd have a blast photographing all the colorful and unique doors in Ærøskøbing.  It didn't take me long to figure out she was right!  They were even better than the ones I'd seen Ireland.

Flowers were blooming everywhere

Roses were blooming everywhere.  The people who lived here seemed to take pride in cultivating beautiful landscaping, even along building faces.

My friends are happy to be here!

I took so many images during our short evening walk, that I'm going to just stop writing and let you enjoy the following photo dump.

Exploring the town before dinner

Windblown selfie - the breeze was strong!

I just loved all the brightly colored homes

Knock, knock, anyone home?

Another cool door

This doorstep had cute painted rocks

My favorite rose garden

Such lovely flowers!

Debbie stopping to smell the roses

This house was covered with vines

More pretty roses

Ærøskøbing was absolutely adorable!

Tall white church tower in town center

Building on the church grounds

Cute shop across the street from our hotel

More colorful buildings

After a lovely walk around part of Ærøskøbing, my friends and I returned to the town square for a scheduled meet up with a local man named John.

Gathering around John, a local who introduced us to Ærøskøbing

John had lived on the island for many, many years.  He said Ærø used to have a very depressed economy and many families started leaving for better jobs elsewhere.  He and some of the other inhabitants decided to cash in on the island's uniquely preserved homes and seafaring history.  They established businesses that catered to tourism:  hotels, restaurants, and boutiques.  It took many years, but he and his neighbors were able to turn around the island's fortunes.  Now Ærø island is fast becoming known as a hidden gem and peaceful place to get away from it all.  Although most of their visitors are Danes on vacation, the island is also starting to attract people from neighboring European countries.  

Nina was our "beer fairy"

For his part, John founded a general store and cafe that serves breakfast and lunch, and in the cafe's courtyard he built a brewery and whiskey distillery.  His wife established a business that plans weddings on the island.  Ærø has become a very popular place to get married and John said his wife is now busy with wedding planning year-round.

Beautiful outside patio area behind John's cafe

John told our group many interesting stories about the history of Ærø and Ærøskøbing.  But it was getting past dinnertime, and my tummy was starting to grumble.  About then John invited us back to his courtyard area to sample a bit of the local brew.  All right!

Enjoying a drink before dinner

John designated Nina as our "beer fairy" and directed everyone to a bar counter where she had poured out glasses of beer samples for us all to try.  Before we drank, John explained to us the proper way to propose a toast in Denmark.  First, we had to make meaningful eye contact with the person we were raising a glass to.  Then both people had to shout "skål!" (skol) which was the Scandinavian equivalent of "Cheers!"  Only after completing these steps could we then enjoy our libations.  Debbie and I tried our hands at a Danish toast - and then decided we needed a bit more practice.

Skål! Debbie and I making meaningful eye contact while toasting

Our group sampled three of the local brews.  One amber, made from walnut, was quite tasty.  Another IPA, made with kelp, was definitely not.  My friends and I toasted and skåled until the beer samples were all gone.  Now nearly 8 pm, I was beyond ready for dinner.

I think we did it right

Finally John's presentation was over and Nina guided us all to a local restaurant a block away.  Debbie and I were both hangry again and hoped we'd get our food quickly.  But tonight our tour had a special dinner planned.  Because Rick Steves loves the Danish Christmas dinner so much, he arranges each of his tours to be served this meal when they stay in Ærøskøbing.  When everyone was seated, a lady from the restaurant came out and explained in detail each food item we'd be eating.  The meal was pretty simple - roast pork, roast potatoes, gravy, and cooked red cabbage.  The food was served buffet style, and our table wasn't one of the first called to get food.  So it was about 8:30 before I actually got to eat anything.  

Just in case, we tried again!

The food was pretty disappointing.  The pork and potatoes were really dry, necessitating a good drenching in gravy.  And I'm not a fan of cooked cabbage ever.  However, by then I was so hungry that I inhaled everything on my plate and even went back for seconds.  Despite that, I have to say it was the worst meal I had on the entire trip.  Since we were right next to the ocean, I would've preferred some of the local seafood instead.  (And this was something I mentioned in my tour evaluation.)

Tonight's dinner was a "Danish Christmas feast"

After dinner, Kim and I were ready for a bit of relaxation in our room.  Because I'd eaten dinner so late, a case of indigestion kept me awake for several hours.  But we settled into our beds anyway and enjoyed the island's peace and quiet.  Tomorrow we had an entire day to explore this little slice of heaven.

Coming in my next post - more photos from this wonderful, fairy-tale place!