Crystal Lakes

When planning my most recent trip to Mt Rainier National Park (see part one), I looked for a trail to hike the second day in the same neighborhood as Sheep Lake and Sourdough Gap trailhead.  I discovered a nearby trail to the Crystal Lakes that wasn't far from the campground I was staying at and decided it would be day two's goal.  

Uphill through the boring forest

I didn't really pay much attention to the hike description until the night before, when sitting in my campsite I finally read the details of the trail I'd attempt the next day.  Copied from the WTA (Washington Trails Association) website, it mentioned the total elevation gain was 2600 feet in three miles, half of this ascent in the first 1.3 miles!  That was an awfully steep climb, especially for my limited fitness coming back from brain surgery.  Gulp, what did I get myself into?

These 3 trees were kind of spooky

I briefly considered bailing and hiking a shorter, flatter trail.  But then I thought to myself, no, I'd picked this trail, it was a place I'd never been, and although it looked steep, I could take it slow.  How bad could it be?

Lower Crystal Lake

So the next morning I packed up my camping gear and made the 10-minute drive to Crystal Lakes trailhead, 4 miles into the park boundary off of Hwy 410.  Upon parking in the gravel pullout that served as the trailhead, I noticed a sign tacked to a nearby tree.  It warned there had been a high occurrence of vehicle break-ins at this parking area.  With all my camping stuff in the car, the sign made me briefly reconsider my trail choice.  But my gear was well hidden and I reasoned the bad guys probably weren't around at 8 am on a Wednesday morning.  Carry on!

Fall color between the lakes

Dashing across Hwy 410 to the trailhead proper, the hike began by crossing Crystal Creek on a cute log footbridge.  That was the only flat spot - once past the bridge this trail took off on a relentlessly steep uphill gradient.

Stripes of color

I'd mentally prepared myself for the uphill climb and maintained a leisurely pace, allowing frequent rest breaks.  Normally hiking breaks happened when I stopped to photograph things, but this trail didn't have much of interest.  It was all boring, mossy forest for the first two miles.  Luckily the morning weather was chilly and foggy so I didn't have to worry about overheating on this uphill climb.

It looked as though someone had painted the underbrush

In 1.3 miles I came to a junction with the trail to Crystal Peak.  An additional 2.5 miles and 1800 feet of elevation gain would take me to the top of this mountain.  Although it was tempting, I realized this was even more distance and elevation gain than the trail I was already climbing.  Not needing to add to my misery, I decided to save that trek for another day.

Crystal Peak

Past the Crystal Peak junction the hike description mentioned a couple fleeting views of Mt Rainer through the trees.  However, the cloudy, foggy weather put a kibosh on that.  So onward I slogged through more dense forest.  I was getting tired of climbing without visual rewards.  Where was that first lake?

Crimson leaves

Just when I was beginning to wonder if I'd taken the wrong trail, a sign for Lower Crystal Lake came into view.  Finally!  Happily I veered onto the side trail to the lakeshore and enjoyed a short stretch of downhill grade.

A pop of color next to the trail

Lower Crystal Lake was lovely.  Rimmed by golden grasses, it's jade-green water was bounded overhead by craggy peaks.  The mountains kept disappearing into foggy clouds, giving the lake and it's surroundings an air of mystery.  Chatting with a backpacker who'd set up camp nearby I envied his campsite choice.  What a great place to spend an evening!

Upper Crystal Lake

But my journey wasn't done yet.  Another half mile further was Upper Crystal Lake, rumored to be even better.  So I tore myself away from the lower lake and resumed the uphill climb.  

Fog rising off the lake

After the fabulous fall color on the Sheep Lake - Sourdough Gap Trail, I was expecting the same here.  But the first two miles had been thickly forested with not much color at all.  That all changed in between Lower and Upper Crystal Lake.  Right away, I began seeing colorful huckleberry bushes.  Then orange-leafed mountain ash trees began to show themselves.  Through gaps in the forest I began to see clearings.  These treeless slopes were full of autumn hues of every shade.  So beautiful!  In addition, Crystal Peak began to poke it's summit above the trees.  The high overcast skies made the colors absolutely pop.  After 2 1/2 boring miles, my camera finally got some use.  There was too much to photograph!  It took me a long time to cover the half mile between lakes.

Mountain peeping over the Upper Crystal lake

Despite all the colorful distractions, I finally arrived at the shore of Upper Crystal Lake.  And, yes it was even more lovely than it's lower cousin.  Surrounded by tall, rocky peaks and slopes dotted with fall colors, the lake was breathtaking.  Fog hovered on the water's surface and drifted upward, temporarily obscuring nearby mountains.  One peak remained cloaked under clouds, but the others would peek in and out of their white curtains.

Colorful shoreline

A trail contoured around the north shoreline, so I followed it through technicolor meadows full of huckleberry bushes.

Lots of red huckleberry bushes

Such a gorgeous place!  Reaching the far end of the lake, I sat by the water and rolled out my lunch.  I entertained myself by watching the foggy clouds drift over the surrounding peaks and taking tons of photos.  Except for another man who'd hiked to the lake before me and had already left, I had the place to myself.

Rocky peak and colorful shore

Upper Crystal Lake was so lovely I didn't want to leave.  But after sitting for a good half hour, the day's chill was seeping into my body.  Time to get moving and warm up!  I reluctantly bid the wonderful lake and it's colorful surroundings a sad goodbye.  As a parting gift, the easternmost mountain, which had remained under clouds the entire time, suddenly threw back the white veil and revealed it's craggy slopes.  I took one final photo of this mountain's bare face before packing the camera away for the trek back down.

Dazzling meadow

The downhill journey wasn't a lot of fun.  After passing Lower Crystal Lake it was back to the moss-filled, uninteresting forest once again.  If that wasn't bad enough, my left foot began to hurt.  My hiking boots, now 3 years old, were wearing out, and the insole had bunched up under the ball of my foot.  The constant downhill pounding wasn't helping things.  I limped along (literally!) trying to lessen the pressure on my left foot. 

Lunch view

The return trip seemed to take forever, but finally I heard highway traffic and then the trailhead sign came into view.  After tackling the Crystal Lakes trail, I'd hoped to stop by nearby Silver Falls and explore the short path to this cascade.  But by now my left foot was throbbing, so I knew today's hiking was done.  Not only that, but I was physically tired from the steep trek.  Like the previous day's hike, I had to remind myself that it was only three short months (in September that is) since my brain surgery and my body was still very much healing.

Upper Crystal Lake pano

But on the plus side I'd been able to hike all the way to Upper Crystal Lake, 2600 foot elevation gain and all!  And although tired and sore, I'd survived.

Afterwards, looking at a map I found out that these two lakes were also accessible from the PCT via Sourdough Gap, the hike I completed the first day.  If I had kept on going north from Sourdough Gap, I would've eventually reached Upper Crystal Lake.  Something to try next time!

A final view before heading back down the trail

Although the first couple miles was awfully boring, the Crystal Lakes trail redeemed itself with two beautiful lakes and several mountain meadows full of autumn color.  The steep uphill trek was the price of admission to this special place.  Beautiful places in nature don't come free.  But the effort to get there is always worth it.

(P.S.  My car and it's contents were untouched.  I guess the thieves take Wednesdays off!)