Italy Day Twelve - Hiking the Cinque Terre

 (A multi-part recap of my mid-April to early May Italy trip.)

Yesterday our tour had taken my friends and I to a stunning area on Italy's northwest coast called the Cinque Terre.  It's name referred to the five tiny towns that made up this scenic six-mile stretch of coastline.  (Cinque Terre means "five lands" in Italian)  These five ancient fishing villages clung to dramatic, rugged seaside cliffs in incredibly picturesque locations.   

Morning stroll through Monterosso

Today my friends Kim, Debbie, and I had an entire day to explore this gorgeous corner of paradise.  Of course, we wanted to visit all five villages.  And being the avid hiker I am, I'd heard there were hiking trails between the villages offering stupendous views.  Our transportation options included a train that connected the little towns, or access via ferry.  My friends and I agreed that the ferry sounded much more scenic and fun, so the plan was to ride it to the southernmost town of Riomaggiore and make our way back to the northernmost town of Monterosso al Mare, (which we all called simply "Monterosso") where our hotel was located.  Kim and Debbie, not keen on hiking, planned to ride the ferry to each town, while I decided upon a combination of hiking and ferry riding.

Monterosso harbor

The entire Cinque Terre area was a national park, and as such I needed to obtain a permit to hike any of the trails.  Luckily, the permits were sold in many places, one of them being the front desk of our hotel.  While purchasing my permit that morning, the extremely helpful desk clerk gave me his recommendations for which trails to visit and the order in which to do so.  His suggestion was to ride the ferry to Riomaggiore, then hike the path between this town and Manarola.  Since the trail between Manarola and Corniglia was currently closed, he then told me to catch the ferry from Manarola and take it to Vernazza.  From Vernazza I'd hike the trail back to Monterosso.  Since I'd never done anything quite like this, I decided to heed the man's advice.

Waiting in line for the ferry

So after an early breakfast, my friends and I loaded up our bags for a full day of Cinque Terre exploration.  We walked from the hotel, perched high on the hills above Monterosso, past lovely pastel buildings of the town.  We headed down to the harbor, where we'd catch our ferry.  Trying to get a jump on the crowds my friends and I had planned to take the first one of the day.

All aboard!

The day almost began in disaster for me.  After purchasing my ferry ticket, I thought I'd stashed my credit card in the money belt I wore underneath my pant's waistband.  However, while waiting in line for the ferry, one of the ferry employees walked by holding a credit card above his head, asking the crowd if it belonged to anyone.  Oh my gosh, it was mine!  One of the men in line behind us had found my credit card on the ground and turned it in.  I think that in my haste, I must've missed my moneybelt and the card fell through my pants leg.  After thanking the man profusely, I made sure my credit card made it safely into the moneybelt each time thereafter.

Map of the Cinque Terre

Credit card drama now over, my friends and I watched as a large, white boat approached the landing area of the harbor.  There were no docks here, the boat simply pulled up to a clear area between the shoreline rocks, and lowered a gangplank.  Once secured, all the passengers walked up this steep, moveable ramp onto the ferry.

New town Monterosso

Again, the weather couldn't have been nicer.  It was yet another gorgeous, blue-sky day - perfect conditions to view these colorful little villages from the Ligurian Sea.  For me this was the main reason I chose to take the ferry - I knew my photo opportunities would be so much better from the water.  Camera in hand, I positioned myself on the landward side of the boat, preparing to capture all this jaw-dropping scenery.  I couldn't wait!

Monterosso harbor close-up

First up was the town where we were staying - Monterosso.  As our ferry chugged away from the docking area, the colorful buildings of this town began to get smaller and smaller.  First, I got a nice view of the "new town" area of Monterosso, with its large hotels and beach area adorned with bright red and blue umbrellas.

Monterosso, old town

Then the ferry passed by the "old town" area of Monterosso, where my friends and I were staying.  Separated by a huge, rocky promontory (with a tunnel running underneath to connect the two towns) I enjoyed the great vantage of this little village.  There was a small beach here too, with rows of blue umbrellas just waiting for the tourists.  And a square, brick clock tower was a definite landmark.  Situated in a small valley, buildings climbed up the steep hills on either side.

Nice day for a boat ride!

Quickly our ferry passed by Monterosso.  I looked ahead at the steep, green hills rising nearly vertical from the sea, occasionally broken by the gray rock face of a cliff.  In some areas, local farmers had terraced these precipitous slopes, growing abundant crops of grapes, olives, and lemons.  With so many grapes, many of the residents operated wineries.  Word was that the local wine was very good and plentiful (and after sampling some at last night's dinner, I heartily agreed!)

Vernazza in the morning light

And then the colorful buildings of the next town came into view.  A round stone tower stood high upon a rocky promontory.  A large church steeple marked one side of a natural harbor.  This was the village of Vernazza, second of the five Cinque Terre towns.

Vineyards on the steep hillsides near Vernazza

As it had done in Monterosso, the ferry pulled up to a flat area on one side of the harbor and lowered its gangplank.  A few passengers departed and several more boarded. 

Vernazza's prominent stone tower

With its scenic round tower, and mishmash of pastel-colored buildings filling a steep ravine, Vernazza looked like a most inviting place to explore.  But my visit would have to wait for later in the day.  First I wanted to get a boat's-eye view of each of these tiny Cinque Terre bergs.

The village of Corniglia

It didn't take long before our boat passed by village number three.  Perched atop a steep bluff, the hamlet of Corniglia was the only one of the five towns without access from the sea.  I marveled at the jumble of buildings that appeared to be haphazardly clinging to the top of an extremely precipitous slope.  Due to the lack of landing facilities, our ferry didn't stop here.  The only way to reach Corniglia was by train or private vehicle.

Look at the those buildings perched atop the cliffs!

Corniglia definitely won the prize for the most precariously placed buildings!  As our ferry passed to the other side of it's rocky bluff we could see a series of near-vertical cliffs making up the town's backside.  A few structures were miraculously hanging on to the very top of its rocky spine.  Looking upward I was surprised to see another line of buildings hugging the ridgeline of the hills far above Corniglia.  How in world were these structures built?  And more importantly, how did the people that live there access them?

Manarola - village number four

Those questions would have to wait, as our ferry was fast approaching village number four - Manarola.  As with the other towns, Manarola was another berg with colorful buildings climbing adjacent hillsides.  Terraced vineyards covered one side of the town's slopes.  It featured a stone bridge near its shoreline and also had a place for boats to dock.  

Ferry selfie

Manarola close-up

Once again, our boat pulled up to a clear spot along the rocky shoreline and exchanged a few more passengers.  Then after pulling up the gangplank, it was on to our final stop, Riomaggiore.

These buildings looked like they were haphazardly plopped on top of the rock

Leaving Manorola, as the ferry passed by a prominent rocky cliff, I gaped at the collection of homes perched atop.  All the buildings appeared as though they'd been haphazardly plopped on top of this rock.  Their locations looked so precarious!  I'm sure they all had amazing views, but I could never live in a house that I feared might slide into the sea.

Look how steep these slopes are!

I thought the above photo did a good job of showing the large amount of terraced vineyards covering the hillsides above Manarola.  It was mind-blowing to see how much of this seemingly unbuidable land was used for agricultural purposes.  And again, how in the world did people access their crops?  I assumed on foot.  After climbing up and down such steep slopes on a daily basis, the Manarola residents were probably very fit.

 

The terrain between Manarola and Riomaggiore

It was a very short distance from Manarola to the final Cinque Terre village, Riomaggiore.  From the ferry I got a glimpse of the Manarola train station perched on a flat-ish shelf between the two towns.  I could see a cantilevered walkway connecting the two villages.  Called the Via dell'Amore, this was the route I'd hike later in the morning. 

Colorful Riomaggiore - village number five

As we approached Riomaggiore, I gasped at the beauty of this little berg.  With the most stunning collection of colorful tumble-down buildings covering the sides of a steep valley, I immediately decided it was the prettiest of the five Cinque Terre villages. 

The main highway is on a high bridge above town

From the ferry I got a good look at a portion of the highway connecting these villages to the outside world.  An extremely tall bridge clung to the upper hillside above the Manarola train station.  Curious, I later looked up the highway on Google maps and found it consisted of a series of tight curves and switchbacks traversing this mountainous region.  I'm sure it took a large amount of money and a lot of smart, creative engineers to design a roadway across such challenging terrain.

I absolutely loved the pastel buildings of Riomaggiore!

As our ferry made its final approach to dock at Riomaggiore, my camera shutter was firing away.  Wow, what a pretty place!

Riomaggiore from the ferry

In a gap between the large shoreside boulders, our ferry lowered its gangplank for the last time in our journey.  Excited to see this gorgeous place, my friends and I eagerly deboarded.

Time to go ashore

From the ferry docking area, we three ladies climbed a series of stairs that took us to village level.  A narrow walkway led visitors into town.  But first it was time to get some selfies against this most magnificent backdrop. 

Classic Riomaggiore photo

The morning light illuminated one side of the colorful stacks of Riomaggiore buildings.  I later discovered this was an iconic scene of the Cinque Terre.  Prominently placed in many travel brochures touting the area, this very view of Riomaggiore also appeared on the front cover of our tour's guidebook.

And a good selfie opportunity!

Steep rocky cliffs stretch into the ocean

Lots of boats tied up here

Such a vibrant little town!

In between the rocky shoreline was a tiny harbor, where a half dozen small boats were tied up.  Walking past this harbor towards the main town, my friends and I were accosted by a local man offering us a boat ride.  Since we had just gotten off the ferry we all politely declined.  The man wouldn't take no for an answer, and after telling him a few more times we weren't interested, he rudely called us some names before walking away.

Looking back at Riomaggiore's harbor

Time to get away from the harbor!  My friends and I walked up a steep street leading into the main retail area of town.  It was still a bit early in the morning and many of the shops were just opening for the day.  But the crowds of tourists had arrived.  They were already clogging the streets and nearby restaurants.

Walking through the main street in town

I walked around with Kim and Debbie for a little bit, taking in this town.  But the retail shops were full of tacky souvenirs that I wasn't remotely interesting in buying.  And I wasn't ready for another coffee break.  Although Riomaggiore was very attractive, I was ready to move on.

I'd heard this first section of the trail, the Via dell'Amore promenade, could get really busy.  To spread out the crowds, the desk clerk at our hotel said that the permits to traverse this portion of the trail were all timed entry.  Unfortunately he'd chosen a midafternoon time for my permit.

Even at the early hour, it was starting to get busy

From the boat, this promenade section of the trail hadn't looked busy.  Maybe if I started early, they'd let me in, despite my assigned afternoon time?  I decided to give it a try, and bid farewell to my friends.  Worming back through the crowded streets, I made my way to the trail's starting point.  In this village of stacked buildings and narrow, winding lanes it was a bit difficult to find, but thanks to guidance from Google maps I was able to locate the path's beginning.

Via dell'Amore - the promenade path between Manarola and Riomaggiore

There was an actual turnstile and guard booth at the Via dell'Amore's entrance and someone there to check my permit.  When I explained my timed entry dilemma, the person working at the entrance said the path currently wasn't busy and I could go now if I wanted.  Yahoo, success!  Excited, I stepped onto the wide walkway that was the Via dell'Amore.

In some places the path was cantilevered over the water

Via dell'Amore means "pathway of love" in Italian.  In the 1920's a trail was built along the oceanside bluffs connecting Manarola and Riomaggiore.  Before then, the villages of the Cinque Terre were very isolated.  This new path changed the social dynamics between these two towns, allowing the residents to mingle with one another.  Some of this socializing turned into people finding that special someone, and the Via dell'Amore became a place for courting couples to take romantic strolls.  After WW II, the trail became known as a place for lovers from the two towns to meet.  In 2012, a large rockslide caused the trail to be shut down for repairs.  It took several years, and large amounts of money, but the trail finally reopened in 2024.

The water was so clear and blue!

Today, this wide promenade hugs the cliffs between Riomaggiore and Manarola.  Perched 100 feet above the sea, it offers spectacular views of the water and nearby coastline.  The path was wide, flat, paved, and accessible to nearly everyone.  At only one kilometer in length, (0.6 miles) it was considered the easiest of the trails between the Cinque Terre villages.  It's short length and flat grade made the Via dell'Amore a very popular place to take a stroll.  It got so busy that the local park service had to institute timed entry permits, allowing 200 people every half hour.  Visitors have 30 minutes to complete the trail, and all travel is one-way northbound, from Riomaggiore to Manarola only. 

I sent photos of Lotti to my friends so they knew I was okay

Starting my walk along this "path of love" I was stunned by the amazing views of the Ligurian Sea.  The rebuild of the Via dell'Amore had involved some major feats of engineering, including cantilevering the path over the water in some areas.  This provided many great viewpoints, all of which I was now enjoying.  There were so many great views to photograph, as you can imagine, my progress wasn't very speedy.

 

In some places, the path was tunneled into the rock

Receiving a text message from Kim asking if I was doing okay, I took a photo of Lotti perched on one of the pathway walls and sent it back to her.  This started a pattern.  Every place I stopped from then on, I sent a photo of Lotti back to my friends, so they knew I was alive and well.

Looking towards Manarola

The Via dell'Amore was absolutely beautiful!  Flowers were blooming on the adjacent hillsides, and the blue ocean waters made for a stunning backdrop.  There was so much great scenery to photograph I'm certain I went over my allotted 30-minute completion time.  Good thing no one was checking up on me!

Manarola train station

After walking past the trail section suspended over the ocean's waters, I then passed through another area where a tunnel had been hewn out of the adjacent rocky cliff.  The path here was covered with a sturdy roof, probably to prevent any stray rocks from striking visitors.

Yes, Lotti and I were doing fine!

I then came to an overlook providing a nice vantage of the Manarola train station.  There was also a great view of the large rocky promontory on Manarola's backside that had several buildings hanging precariously from its cliffs.  It was the same headland I'd photographed earlier from the boat - now I got to see it again from a different angle.

The ferry approaching Manarola

Also from this perch I watched one of the ferries approaching Mararola.

Almost to Manarola!

Oh my gosh, I could see why this "path of love" was so popular - and why people took romantic strolls along its length.  What a great place to be with your special someone.  I wondered how many proposals happened here?

Manarola was another stunning village

In no time at all, I walked past the Manarola train station and following signs, entered the village's main square.  The plaza had a beautiful mosaic inlaid into the pavement.  Situated high above town's principal throughfare, I had a great vantage point to watch the tourists wander along the row of shops and restaurants.  Lots of laundry hung from balcony railings.  Apparently the upper stories served as residences for the people who lived here.

Lotti liked it too!

Locating a public stairway, I started down to the lower village level.  Distracted by a cute t-shirt in a nearby shop window, I went inside and ended up buying it.  Then Lotti and I continued towards Manarola's main shopping street.  Like Riomaggiore, it was also swarming with tourists.

Huge mosaic in the main plaza

Since the path between Manarola and Corniglia was closed indefinitely due to a landslide, taking the advice of my hotel's front desk clerk, I decided to skip Corniglia, hop the ferry, and go directly to Vernazza.  But first I had to find the ferry landing area.

A colorful bush

Following a path that appeared to lead towards the rocky "beach" area, I passed a gelato shop.  Thoughts of a cool dish of gelato on this hot day convinced me to take a quick detour.  Ah - yes the gelato hit the spot, and I found the ferry landing in plenty of time.

Approaching Manarola's harbor, looking towards Corniglia

While waiting for the ferry to arrive, I entertained myself by people-watching.  A circular path hugged another rocky headland across from the ferry landing and it appeared there was a nice restaurant on top.  It looked to be a popular place to take a walk, as it was packed with tourists.  It was also interesting to observe my fellow passengers waiting for the ferry.  There were a couple of tour groups, their identities given away by common nametags and listening devices.

Time to hop on the ferry!

There really wasn't much of a waiting area for the ferry.  People lined up along a narrow path between the huge shoreline boulders.  They wedged themselves in wherever they could and after awhile the line became quite long, snaking through the rocks.  When the ferry arrived and started letting off passengers, we all had to move aside and allow them to pass, but it was really tight. 

Goodbye, Manarola!

After all the departing passengers had deboarded, we were allowed on the ferry.  Since I was near the front of the line, I quickly located a spot along the ship's outer wall - to get photos of course!

Lotti was enjoying the views

It was great to be back on the ferry!  The Cinque Terre views really were best from a boat on the sea.  As we pulled away from Manarola I took a few more parting shots of this cute little berg.  

It was a full ferry

The boat skipped across a calm sea, passing by Corniglia once again.  This time the midday light illuminated the town much better so I took more photos.  I gazed longingly at this adorable village perched on top of a hill.  Although I would've liked to have visited, since access was only by train and I didn't want to buy another ticket, I opted to see the towns that had ferry service.  There was a hiking trail connecting Vernazza and Corniglia, but due to time constraints I decided to skip it.  Besides, the hotel desk clerk had recommended the Vernazza to Monterosso path instead.

Corniglia in better light

Approaching Vernazza

After sailing by more green, terraced hillsides the ferry again approached the village of Vernazza.  The tall, stone tower rising prominently on its rocky headland was my sign that we were getting close.

Vernazza's stone tower

Approaching the ferry landing area, I was surprised by the huge crowd waiting to catch the boat.  By noon the world had woken up, and tourists had arrived in droves.

Approaching Vernazza harbor

After docking and scrambling down the gangplank once again, I followed the crowd of people who had just deboarded the ferry into Vernazza's charming harbor.

Vernazza was another adorable town

Unlike Manarola and Riomaggiore, Vernazza had a proper harbor.  It was large enough to provide docking space for over a dozen small boats.  A concrete apron sloped down into the water, which many people were using as a beach.  The water was a lovely shade of aqua-blue and perfectly clear.

Lots of boats anchored in the harbor

I really wanted to see the stone tower up close, so upon my arrival in Vernazza I tried to find the access path.  However, after climbing halfway up what I thought was the pathway, I ran into a man who informed me the restaurant on top charged admission.  Well, I didn't want to pay, so I turned around and headed back.  Only later, after I'd returned home did I realize I'd climbed the adjacent headland instead.  Oh well, I guess this means I have to return!

St. Margaret of Antioch, Vernazza's main church

My attempt to reach the stone tower foiled, instead I walked past the harbor and into the town.  I passed a tall bell tower of the local chiesa, Church of St. Margaret of Antioch.  Built in 1318, this sturdy structure had withstood centuries of rough coastal weather.  Legend has it that in ancient times, a small wooden box washed ashore containing the bones of a finger from Saint Margaret's hand.  After finding this relic, the residents decided to build a church in her honor.

Looking back towards the sea

I decided that before tackling the next section of the hiking trail, it would be a good idea to get something to eat.  So I wandered into the main commercial street of Vernazza to see what I could find.

It was a pretty town - but so busy!

Oh my what a busy place it was!  The narrow street was shoulder to shoulder with tourists.  As I wriggled my way though the crowds, I tried to locate someplace to grab a sandwich.  Many eateries were already full, and others had long lines out the door.  (I know these photos don't show the crowds, but believe me they were there!)

Tables waiting for diners

I'd heard Vernazza was known for its delicious focaccia bread.  But I wasn't able to find a place selling any.  It was hot and I quickly got tired of dodging people, so finally I ducked into a deserted pizza place and grabbed a piece of bread with tomato sauce and cheese.  It would have to do - I was done searching!  Lotti and I then settled onto a nearby bench for a quick lunch break.  An elderly couple sat down next to me, and although we didn't speak each other's language, a smile was the only communication needed.  (Another memorable interaction with the locals)

 

I had a quick pizza lunch

After wolfing down my pizza bread, I was ready to find the hiking path leading to Monterosso.  Consulting Google maps, I wound my way back down to the harbor area and past the church.  But the directions led me to a dead end.  I tried again, but ended up back at the same place.  What in the world?  I asked a nearby young man if he knew where the trail began and he just smiled and said "Why do you want to work so hard?  You should go sit under an umbrella, relax and enjoy the view."  

Time to hike!  The path between Vernazza and Monterosso

Wandering around the area highlighted by Google maps, I ran into two other young men who were also trying to find the trail.  All three of us headed back towards the area highlighted by the app, only to be stymied a third time.  Walking back through the main street once again, I happened to spot a tiny sign pointing to a narrow gap between two buildings.  The sign indicated the trail was beyond this small alley.  The two men and I followed this alley and sure enough it led us onto the trail.  After passing through another checkpoint and showing my permit, I was on my way.  

I climbed to a stunning view of Vernazza's harbor

Ooof....the trail rocketed steeply uphill almost immediately.  The early afternoon sun beat down upon this unshaded path and it was hot!  In my haste to find the trail, I'd neglected to purchase more water and had only about half a bottle with me.  Well, I wasn't about to go back to Vernazza now, so it would just have to do.

Luckily there were signs to guide me

Huffing and puffing up a series of steep staircases, sweat began pouring down my body.  The path was murderously hilly and arduous.  Oh, it was hard work!  I began questioning my decision to hike this trail.  Was in over my head?  Did I really need to do this?  Maybe the young man in town was right - sitting under an umbrella taking in the Vernazza harbor views was sounding pretty good about then.

Plenty of steep stairs!

But then I noticed the other people hiking the trail with me.  There were lots of older people, many with flimsy footwear.  There were young kids, scampering uphill with parents in tow.  Some hikers had even brought their dogs (although the poor pups all looked terribly hot!)   I was an experienced hiker - if these folks could do it, then so could I!

Wildflowers blooming along the trail

So I continued slogging uphill.  The path alternated between level gravel, narrow stair steps, and rocky tread, where one really had to watch their step.  But it was pretty - wildflowers bloomed on the hillsides, most notably several lovely red poppies.  I'd never before seen red poppies - where I live they are all orange.

Another birds-eye view of Vernazza

And soon I was rewarded for my tough, sweaty slog.  Views began to open up, first of the beautiful blue Ligurian Sea.  Then I was treated to a stunning panorama of the town of Vernazza, it's colorful buildings, and the clear blue harbor waters.

They even had cacti here

Beyond the viewpoint, my trail leveled out for a short distance and I welcomed the break from climbing.  I passed by some lovely pink wildflowers beside a patch of cactus.  It was very surprising to see cactus here!  This area didn't seem to have a dry enough climate.

The fantastic views almost made of up for the steep climb

From here the trail roller-coasted bit, alternating between flat and murderously steep.  Completely exposed to the afternoon sun, I was a hot, sweaty mess.  Although my mouth was dry, I tried to ration the meager amount in my water bottle.  It had to last the two-plus miles to Monterosso.

The path was plenty busy

At least if I got into trouble I wasn't alone out here.  There were plenty of people walking the trail in both directions.  Sometimes the path narrowed so much that when coming upon someone heading in the opposite direction, passing became a problem.  And there wasn't always fencing to protect hikers from some seriously high dropoffs.

Vernazza is really far away now

I climbed so high up those tall coastal cliffs that the ocean shoreline was a long distance below me.  Definitely a no fall zone!  The farther I traveled from Vernazza, the tinier the town appeared until I could barely make out its round tower.  Despite the dizzying heights, I enjoyed these lofty views.  And at the steepest dropoffs, most of trail had some sort of barrier, so it never felt terribly unsafe.

Farming on terraced hillsides

Around the halfway mark, the trail leveled out and I started to pass by an area of terraced hillsides.  This was where the locals grew their crops and I noticed all kinds of trees and vegtables growing.  I even passed by a small cafe that was trying to entice hikers inside for a cool drink.  Although it was tempting to stop, I decided to keep on going to Monterosso.  It couldn't be much farther - or so I thought.

Monterosso harbor in sight!

Past the farming area, I came to an overlook and there past a large vineyard I got my first glimpse of the Monterosso harbor.  Oh what a sight for sore eyes!  (And tired legs)

Navigating a steep staircase down into Monterosso

From here the path dove steeply downhill.  After climbing for the better part of an hour and a half, at first it was welcomed.  But downhill grades are actually tougher on the body, at least for me.  It didn't take long before my feet started complaining.

Very steep and narrow staircase!

It was here that the path really narrowed.  I followed a steep staircase made of local rocks, which was quite uneven.  I really had to watch my step.  Also, it was here that I met the highest number of hikers, most traveling uphill, which necessitated a bit of maneuvering to let them pass. 

I was never so happy to see this town!

After traveling downhill for what seemed an eternity, I finally began to see the pastel-colored buildings of Monterosso.  I passed by another overlook with great views of the town beach, it's pretty blue umbrellas lined up along the shore.  I was getting ever-so close!

Monterosso beach 

Finally I spotted the square, brick clock tower.  Then my narrow path widened into a regular city street.  I followed this street until it veered into the main road that paralleled the beach.  Not far now.  Then I ended my journey with one more steep climb - turning from the main road, I climbed back uphill and then traversed a series of stairways to my hotel.  Tired, sweaty, and thirsty I was never so glad to finally be there.  Although later I discovered the path between Vernazza and Monterosso was a mere 2 and 1/3 miles, with all its steep ups and downs, it sure seemed a lot longer and tougher!

Square clock tower

Kim and Debbie were still out exploring the Cinque Terre towns.  They ended up having a great time riding the ferry to four of the five villages (they missed Corniglia too) and having drinks and snacks in each place.  I later heard their tales of a possible Robert DeNiro sighting on one ferry ride, and meeting some fun people in the towns.

Beautifully landscaped hotel grounds

It was a good thing I had the hotel room to myself.  I was dirty and smelly and in dire need of a shower.  So after downing several glasses of water, I cleaned myself up.  Then, hungry from my hike, I went back into town to find something to eat.

So many lemon trees!

It was fun to have a little time to myself to peruse the many souvenir shops along Monterosso's main drag.  Since lemons were a big crop here, many of the items for sale had a lemon theme.

Lots of lemon-themed souvenirs

There were also lots of cute handmade stoneware, many with fish motifs.  I really liked a lot of it, but there was no room in my suitcase for fragile items such as these.

Beautiful painted stoneware

I found a nearby sandwich shop and ordered myself a panini and a refreshing limoncello spritz.  I'd certainly earned it!  After a couple worried texts from my friends inquiring of my whereabouts, I sent them a selfie of myself enjoying a drink.

Enjoying a limoncello spritz - my reward for completing the hike

A couple hours later I was reunited with Kim and Debbie.  We exchanged stories from our day's activities.  Then we all headed into town for dinner.

Time to go to dinner with Kim and Debbie

We ended up randomly choosing a restaurant from the guidebook.  It was a lovely setting, on a high bluff overlooking the beach and harbor.  The place was extremely busy - a large group of high school students took up many of the tables and had the wait staff running.  But my friends and I weren't in a hurry.  We sipped our drinks and took in the views of this jaw-dropping, beautiful seaside village.  Such a tranquil atmosphere, watching the boats come and go from the harbor.  I was sure gonna miss this place!

Enjoying another delicious pasta meal

We all enjoyed another pasta dinner.  I got adventurous and ordered mine with octopus and it was really good.  

Sunset from our hotel

Our evening ended with a trip to our hotel's rooftop terrace, where one could see the entire old town Monterosso and the ocean beyond.  A perfect place for sunset!  Although the skies weren't quite as colorful as the previous evening, it was still a great vantage and a nice way to close out another busy day. 

The moon is out tonight

One of my favorite places I'd visited in Italy so far, I was sad our tour would be leaving the next day.  Our hotel was fabulous, the small villages adorable, the food delicious, the scenery absolutely stunning.  The Cinque Terre was definitely a place I wanted to return.  But now it was time again to pack up and travel to our next stop - the Tuscan town of Sienna.

Coming in my next post, we visit the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa, and learn all about Sienna's most unusual horse race.