Grand Canyon - Sunrise, Desert View, and Surprise Snowstorm

I'm gonna inundate you with photos again.....

Bright Angel Traihead, just before sunrise

Remember in my last post I mentioned that snow was forecast the following day?  Well I spent a extremely cold night in my unheated van (although equipped with a plug-in heater, I mistakenly chose a campsite without electrical hookups - doh!).  The only bedding provided by the rental company was a thin sheet and cotton comforter.  Although dressed in long johns, wool socks, and knit beanie, the temps dropped low enough that I donned my down vest during the night.  I could have really used a warm sleeping bag!

Nice light in the canyon

I survived my frigid night in the van, finally tucking myself into a (mostly) cozy ball and drifting off to sleep.  Unlike the previous day, I was able to rouse myself before first light.  But on such a cold morning, it was hard to leave my now-warm bed. 

Colors are getting brigher

For today's sunrise, I'd originally planned to catch a bus back to Mather Point.  But after waiting a few long minutes, none were showing themselves.  So I trekked over to the westbound stop and hopped a shuttle heading to Bright Angel Lodge.

Interesting rock formations

Best decision ever!  Disembarking at the Bright Angel Trailhead, I gaped in amazement at the colorful panorama spread out below, bathed in soft predawn light.

First golden rays

Although cloudy skies hid the sunrise, a few golden rays were able to escape and illuminated the upper rim in beautiful golden hues.

Morning panorama

I stood in the chilly morning air and watched in amazement as this light spread into the canyon below.

Beginning of Bright Angel Trail

After spending several minutes taking in this fantastic light show, I tore myself away and headed towards the Bright Angel Trail.  I didn't originally intend to hike it, but an interesting tunnel on the trail piqued my curiosity.

Sagebrush foreground

I could at least go check out the tunnel - it didn't look very far away.  So down I traipsed.

Bright Angel Trail

Luckily this time of the morning, hardly anybody was around.  I met a couple hikers burdened with huge backpacks, who I assumed were heading towards the bottom.  But other than that, I pretty much had the place to myself.

Hiker tunnel on Bright Angel Trail

The hiker tunnel was really cool.  A worthy destination, that's as far as I traveled.  I would have liked to hike further down the Bright Angel Trail, but today's time was limited.  So back up I went.

Only in the Grand Canyon do you see signs like these!

This National Park sports many unique signs.  Returning up the Bright Angel, I found one explaining mule etiquette.  Only in the Grand Canyon!

This mule's ready for another trip

Speaking of mule trains, guess who I met at the top of Bright Angel Trail?  Another group of mules, saddled up and ready for their downhill trek.  A new batch of riders were also preparing for the journey, bundled up heavily against the cold wind.  Didn't look like the best day for such a trip.

Light and shadow

I headed east along the rim trail.  Although crammed with tourists the previous afternoon, this morning I was delighted to find the place deserted.  (Linda's tip for visiting National Parks - get up early to avoid the crowds)

Kolb Studio

I passed by the Kolb Studio.  This historic structure was built by the Kolb brothers as a photography studio and family home.  (Can you imagine having your house on the Grand Canyon's rim?  How cool is that?)  Of course, it's no longer used as a residence, and now functions as a bookstore and art gallery.

Lookout Studio perched on a cliff

I also got a great view of the Lookout Studio.  Perched on a rocky cliff overlooking the canyon, this structure was built by the Santa Fe Railway as a photography studio to compete with the Kolbs.  Designed by Mary Colter, the famous Grand Canyon architect, it's now part of the Grand Canyon Village National Historic Landmark District.

Spiny vegetation

It was great to be able to wander the rim path, taking photos whenever I wanted, and not have to wait for people to get out of the way.

The canyon colors come out

Knowing I had to vacate my campsite by 11 am, I opted for a short excursion.  I decided to walk the rim trail back to the campground connector trail. 

Patterns on the canyon floor

A portion of the trail I'd yet to see, there was more spectacular scenery for my camera's lens to feast on.

Stormy weather is coming in

About that snowy forecast.....although I was relieved to find bare ground in the morning, the canyon wasn't out of the woods yet.  Making my way back on the Rim Trail, I started to notice tiny white flakes swirling in the wind.

Rock towers

The snow started falling heavier.  Although the flurries appeared to be melting as soon as they hit the ground, I began to get nervous.  Although I love snow, I didn't relish the thought of driving my rented van, with unknown tire conditions and snow-handling abilities, through icy roads.

Interesting rock layers

So I headed back to my campsite, packed up and took a quick shower.  The snow seemed to slack off while I was completing my chores.  But I decided it would be best to start heading to lower elevations.  Besides, I was due to meet up with my blogging buddies, Hans and Lisa, in Camp Verde late that afternoon.

Desert View Watchtower

I pondered which route to take back to I-17.  Via nail-biting Highway 64 to Williams, or east on Desert View Drive to Cameron?

Doorway

I really wanted to see more of the Park, so Desert View Drive won.  This scenic road wound 22 miles past the Visitor Center along more of the canyon's rim.

Another tower doorway

Another good choice.  This road meandered past more stunning viewpoints.  I stopped at a couple, where parking spaces were wide and plentiful (my big van wasn't the easiest to maneuver!).  

The tower without people!

Sadly, the weather took another turn for the worse.  The wind began blowing and snowfall picked up in intensity.  The canyon became cloaked in a wispy white fog, restricting visibility at all the viewpoints.

Foggy canyon views

I'd read the Desert View Watchtower, at the park's eastern entrance, was worth seeing.  So I bypassed the final three overlooks and pulled into the Desert View Visitor Center parking lot.  Exiting my vehicle, I noticed two large tour buses had just finished unloading.  The place was packed with  tourists from these buses.

Red walls

The Desert View Watchtower was another structure designed by Grand Canyon architect Mary Colter.  Created to resemble an ancient Pueblo watchtower, it was an impressive building.  I really wanted to explore the place, but it was so packed with people, I ended up walking out.  Even the overlooks were busy with tourists.  But the weather was so lousy, with fog shortening visibility, there wasn't as much to see.  I tried a few photos but was mostly disappointed.  Time to head south!

Lone gnarly tree

I thought once I left the Grand Canyon and descended in elevation, I'd leave the snow behind.  But I forgot one thing - I had to pass through Flagstaff, a city that sits at an elevation of 7000 feet.  Snow began to fall thicker and thicker as I started the climb into town.  By the time I reached the city limits, this storm had morphed into a full-on blizzard, with 3-4 inches of accumulation already on the ground and barely any visibility.  Oh...this wasn't good!

The roads started to look slippery.....my windshield began to ice over.  I blasted the defroster and slowed down.  I reminded myself I'd driven on snowy roads many times this winter, and could handle this.  And then, just south of Flagstaff, traffic came to a standstill.  Google maps showed an accident (a large gravel truck had slid into the median taking a car with it).  Although the next 10 miles was a slow crawl, I was happy for the reduced speed.  Not only did I not want to wreck the rental van, I didn't want anyone to hit me (about this time I was really thankful I'd purchased that additional insurance on the van!)

Snowstorm in Flagstaff

Finally cresting over the last big hill, I-17 began to lose elevation, and the snow transitioned to rain (can't begin to tell you how relieved I was!)  By the time I pulled into Camp Verde, the weather was back to warm, dry, typical Arizona desert weather.

It was so good to see Hans and Lisa!  They welcomed me with cold beer and a delicious meal.  Tomorrow would begin the second part of my Arizona adventure, hiking the jaw-dropping scenic trails of Sedona.

Grand Canyon - Quest for a Sunset

***Photo-heavy post ahead****  (You've been warned!)

After hiking the South Kaibab Trail to Cedar Ridge, I took a return bus to the Grand Canyon Visitor Center, and from there hopped on a different one bound for the Village.  This packed-to-the-gills bus wound through crowded roads, made even more so by heavy road construction in the park.  We riders were finally deposited at the Bright Angel Lodge.

Expansive vistas at Trailview Overlook

The rim trail adjacent to the lodge was swarming with tourists.  Never in my wildest dreams, did I expect to see so many people visiting the Grand Canyon on a Wednesday in mid-March!  (I later learned this particular week coincided with Arizona's spring break)  Walking along the paved pathway was an exercise in frustration.  People were everywhere!  I couldn't snap a photo without getting at least half a dozen bodies in the frame.  And forget about going anywhere fast - the trail was clogged with slow walkers and stopped people gazing into the canyon.

The Bright Angel Trail looks like a bunch of squiggles

Although only mid-afternoon, I'd hoped to arrive early and scope out a good place to capture the sunset.  But this crowded walkway was definitely not the place.

Colorful layers

Scouring my park map, I noticed another bus route took visitors further west to a place called Hermits Rest.  This seven-mile journey featured stops at nine viewpoints.  I had a few hours to burn until sunset, so I decided to escape the Village madness and go west.  My new plan was to hit all the viewpoints along the way, finally ending up at Hermits Rest in time for sunset.

One more from Trailview

The gusty winds that had accompanied me on my earlier hike out of the canyon seemed to have intensified.  While waiting in line to board the Hermits Rest bus, they whipped through the crowd of hopeful passengers, chilling us all.  I was prepared with hat, gloves and extra jacket, but many of the folks I saw were shivering, clad in only shorts and t-shirts.

Maricopa Point

When a bus finally arrived, it was a relief to board and get out of the wind.  The cozy bus sped away towards Trailview Overlook, our first viewpoint.

Wrinkled features

It was so nice to be warm, I initially planned to stay on the bus, and pass up the first viewpoint.  But as we approached Trailview Overlook, the bus driver glowingly said it was "the best view on the route" and we shouldn't miss it.  Plus, he promised once we got below the rim, we'd be out of the wind.

Canyon rim close-up

Well, that driver only got one thing right.  True, the vistas were absolutely stunning.  I could see back towards the Rim Village, with all its hotels and shops (and people!).  The Bright Angel Trail zig-zagged below, looking like a bunch of orange squiggles.  And the adjacent eroded rock formations were spectacular.

Maricopa Viewpoint

But as our busload of people climbed below the canyon we were hit with gust upon gust of wind.  It nearly blew the hat off my head.  So much for no wind below the canyon's rim!  Instead of slacking, off, instead the wind appeared to pick up speed.  I braced myself against the guardrail, steadying my camera, trying to keep things in focus the best I could. 

Stunning colors

Needless to say, nobody hung around the viewing platform very long.  After five minutes, we were all back at the bus stop waiting for the next shuttle.

Powell Point

Lucky for us, buses ran every 10 minutes, so the wait wasn't long.  Back on the shuttle, it was a quick hop to Maricopa Point.

View from Powell Point

Again, I was loathe to leave this warm, wind-free shelter.  But I'd come here to photograph the scenery, not sit on a bus.  So once my ride came to rest at the Maricopa Point stop, out I went.

Hopi Point

Maricopa Point was mighty spectacular also (it's part of the Grand Canyon, how can it not?).  After prowling around, snapping copious images, I returned to the bus stop for a ride to the next overlook.

Glimpse of the Colorado River

Powell Point and Hopi Point were the next two overlooks, and of course I stopped at each.  I noticed fewer people getting off, and most of the folks that I'd started with on my first bus weren't around anymore.  But I did seem to meet the same husband, wife, and teenage boy at every viewpoint.  Finally, I introduced myself and we had a good chat.  The fun of travel - meeting nice people from all over.

Zoomed in

The wind continued to be a nuisance, but when you've traveled a long way specifically to see the Grand Canyon, you put up with whatever the weather dishes out.  I noticed clouds gathering on the horizon, and remembered that tomorrow's forecast had predicted snow flurries. 

Nice light on the trees

At Hopi Point I got my first glimpse of the Colorado River, far below the Canyon's walls.

Bus stop

Besides capturing the wide, colorful panoramas (which were so tempting to fill a memory card with) I also zoomed my camera's lens as far as it would go, trying showcase some of the canyon's finer details.

More close-up features

Loved the jagged, red lines on this image.

Red lines

I spent way too much time at the next two viewpoints. 

Clouds moving in

Finally, 5:30 pm had me pulling into Mohave Point.  This particular bus driver mentioned that Mohave Point was a good place to catch the sunset.  With only an hour to go until sundown, I decided a quick tour was in order, otherwise I'd never make it to Hermits Rest.

Mohave Point

But....again I was captivated.  The overlook here had an amazing view of the Colorado River's blue ribbon, shining so far below.

Golden light

People were already staking out sunset-watching spots.  I noticed many groups sitting in choice locations, bundled up against the wind and rapidly-dropping temperatures.

Rain falling far away

At 6 pm, I walked back to the bus stop, hoping to catch a final ride to the very end of the road.  But after waiting a long 10 minutes, no shuttle was forthcoming.  Calculating the time it would likely take to reach Hermits Rest vs. the amount of daylight remaining I came to the realization if I was gonna catch the sunset, I needed to stay put.

Pink clouds and rain

So back to the overlook I traipsed.  By now, a sizeable crowd had gathered near the iron railings.  Boldly I shuffled my way to a spot along the rails, and staked out a viewing spot.

Colorado River far below

Now for the wait.....a cold, windy wait.  I passed the time snapping shots of the expansive canyon views and Colorado River below.  The clouds also put on a show, turning several shades of pink, and producing wispy virgas that dangled across the sandstone formations.

Last light of day

I'd left my tripod in the van (yeah, I know I'm a lazy photographer) so to capture the disappearing light, I turned up my camera's ISO and stabilized it by bracing my lens on the guardrails.  Seemed to work okay - I was vindicated upon noticing another photographer having a hard time keeping his tripod stable in the gusty wind.

Sunset glow

Sadly, cloudy skies kept the nighttime show at bay, and the only good light we had was a brief orange flash as the sun sank below the horizon.  It did, however, illuminate the clouds with a nice orange-pink hue for a few short minutes.

Setting sun turns the clouds red

And then, that was it.  The show over, people began leaving en masse for the shelter of a warm bus.  I lingered a few minutes longer, capturing one final image of some spectacular cloud wisps over the canyon.  Then, walking in the dark while trying to stuff my camera into it's bag, I tripped on the uneven, rocky surface and went down.  My right elbow took the brunt of the impact, mostly because  I sacrificed it to keep my camera from harm.  (That's what we photographers do)  I ended up with a nice purple bruise for my efforts, but luckily that's as bad as it got.

Last image after sunset

Well, I didn't make it to Hermits Rest, nor the last three viewpoints, but I did see a lot of wonderful scenery and managed to catch a tiny sunset.  Boarding a return bus back to my campsite, I reflected on the amount of ground covered during this very full day on the South Rim.

Maybe tomorrow morning I'd finally capture a sunrise........



If you've missed any of my Grand Canyon posts, click on the links below:
The Introduction
Critters of the Canyon
Of Hikes and Mule Trains


P.S.  Bonus points if you made it all the way through this post! :)