Grand Canyon - Of Hikes and Mule Trains

Of course I couldn't travel all the way to the Grand Canyon and not hike below the rim.  Originally, my grand plan was to hike down to the Colorado River, stay overnight at Phantom Ranch, and climb back up to the rim the following day.  BUT....as I discovered, beds at Phantom Ranch sell out thirteen months in advance, and you have to be online at the right time to snare a cancellation.

Near the South Kaibab Trailhead

On to Plan B......a short hike below the rim and back up.  A much more sensible option, as my fitness probably wasn't ready for a 5,000 foot climb.  Plus instead of burning both allotted days hiking down and back, this would allow more time to fully explore the South Rim.

Looking down on a switchback

I'd initially chosen the Bright Angel Trail for my first foray into the canyon.  But after strolling the rim trail that first morning, I perused information boards at the Visitor Center.  All the major canyon hikes were detailed here, including the South Kaibab Trail.  To my amusement, this trail featured a place named "Ooh-Aah Point."  With a name like that, how could I resist?  Curiosity getting the best of me, I decided right then and there to change my destination.

Twisty, turny trail

Just a short bus ride from the Visitor Center, late morning found myself and a few dozen fellow tourists deposited at the South Kaibab Trailhead.

Lots of people out hiking today!

Knowing I'd be making frequent photo stops, I waited until the entire mob of people from my bus had filtered down the trail before beginning my journey.

More "Oh my gosh" views

Worked like a charm......not only did I have the trail to myself (with the exception of a few uphill stragglers) there were lots of people in my photos, which I prefer as it shows scale.

Perched on the cliff

And, oh were there photo subjects!  From the adjacent red layered canyon walls, to the sharp switchbacking trail, to the breathtaking canyon bottom spread out in a colorful panorama.

I think that's "Ooh-Aah" Point

The scenery was magnificent!  There was lots of photo-taking happening that's for sure.  I don't remember how long it took me to travel the 0.9 miles to Ooh-Aah Point, but nearly every one of my bus-mates beat me there.

Tons of people here

Finally up ahead I spotted a rocky outcrop lined with people.  That must be Ooh-Aah Point! 

Gotta prove I was here!

Arriving at the viewpoint, a tiny sign confirmed my location.  Seeing my big camera, a nearby group asked if I'd take their picture at the sign.  After clicking several images, I had them return the favor.  Gotta prove I was here!  (Photos or it didn't happen, right?)

The trail continues down

I found a spot amidst the crowds to sit, have a snack, and people watch.  Lots of cell phone photo attempts and selfie sticks.  Quite amusing to observe.

Red trails

I noticed most hikers who'd made it to Ooh-Aah point continued further down the trail.  From the trailhead sign, I remembered that the next viewpoint, Cedar Ridge, was only another half mile away.   I could do that!

The scenery was A-plus!

The next portion of the South Kaibab descended steeply.  It wound through a large cactus field and over an outcropping of red soil.

Breathtaking

The views continued to be jaw-dropping.  Hard to make much forward progress when all I wanted to do was capture the scenery in one more photograph.

Cedar Ridge far below

Finally an open ledge gave me the first glimpse down to the next destination.  And what did I see?  A mule train tied up by the viewpoint!  I'd been hoping to encounter a string of the National Park's famous beasts of burden.  Excited, I quickened my steps in hopes of making it to Cedar Ridge before the group left.

Made it to Cedar Ridge

Turned out I didn't have to worry.  Not only were these mules and their riders taking an extended break, the group would be traveling up the very trail I'd be ascending shortly.

Mules!

So I had plenty of time to prowl around these lovely mules, taking photos from every conceivable angle.

Mule train taking a break

I even got to chat with one of the riders, a friendly lady who was more than willing to share her experiences.

These hard-working animals made great photo subjects

Used for transport in the Grand Canyon since the late 1800s, mules are the choice for traversing these steep, rocky trails.  These sturdy beasts are more sure footed than horses, and don't spook easy.  Mules also are able to carry much more weight.

Almost time to go

While chatting with my mule-riding friend, we noticed a hiker who approached one of the mule guides, and pointed to something further down the trail.  The lady guide hopped on her mule and took off quickly.  We learned that there was a hiker is distress and the guide had gone down to render assistance.

So true

Despite numerous warning signs and cautionary language on park literature and websites, every year many people get themselves into trouble hiking the Grand Canyon.  As an experienced hiker, I know climbing back up a steep trail is no joke.  The day I hiked into the canyon the weather featured lovely cool temperatures in the mid-50s.  I could not imagine climbing up this trail in the heat of midsummer.

One last image before my climb back up

Although it was tempting to continue my trek down to Skeleton Point (another 1.5 miles and 1000 feet further) I decided this was far enough for today.  Yes, I could probably make it down and back up, but this would burn the entire afternoon and it would also likely tire me out for the rest of the day.  There was more of the South Rim I wanted to see - I still had a sunset to capture after all!

So I took a nice long break at Cedar Ridge, resting my legs, drinking water, and having another snack.  Then refreshed, it was time to tackle the 1100 foot climb up to the rim.

The mule train catches up

The trail between Cedar Ridge and Ooh-Aah Point was murderously steep.  But, used to hiking in the Columbia River Gorge where every trail goes straight up, I just put one foot in front of the other and kept going.  Soon, Cedar Ridge below me began growing smaller and smaller.

There they go

To my delight, I spied the mule train slowly trudging up the trail behind me.  Although not speedy, those beast's four legs were much quicker than my two, and it wasn't long before the group of mules and riders began to pass me by.  No problem - it was a great opportunity to get some action photos.

Large cactus patch

My return trip wasn't nearly as pleasant as the descent.  Climbing upward was hard work, and although I was in better shape than many of my fellow hikers, it was far from a walk in the park.  Then the wind began to pick up, gusting strongly while blowing dust and sand into my eyes.  And, following the mule train, I had to dodge "road apples" that the mules left behind (don't want to step in that!)

I kept catching the mule train

I didn't take near as many photos on the way up.  Of course, I'd captured things pretty well on the downhill trip, and the dusty weather wasn't good for cameras anyway.

Goodbye mules

But I did get the camera out periodically  to capture a few final images of the mule riders as they slowly wound their way up the steep canyon walls.

Winding up the cliff

Although short, it was a wonderful introduction to the heart of the Grand Canyon.  But upon reaching the top, I immediately caught a bus to the west side of the rim.  There was no way I was missing tonight's sunset.  Which you'll get to see in my next post.....


My previous Grand Canyon posts:
The Introduction
Critters of the Canyon

Critters of the Canyon

I normally have bad luck when it comes to wildlife sightings.  When visiting National Parks, usually chipmunks are the only critters I encounter.  But during my short stay at the Grand Canyon's South Rim, I was lucky enough to spot a few other wild animals.

This pretty bird posed for me

This pretty blue bird posed in a tree for me, and using my zoom lens I was able to get a half decent shot of it.  Sorry, I'm not a birder so I have no idea what species (maybe some of my more bird friendly readers can help out with id).

Elk in the camground!

Walking from my campsite the first morning, I encountered a mama elk and her baby about 10 feet from the road.

Mama and baby elk

The elk were busy eating, and didn't seem to care that I was nearby.

"Don't bother me, I'm eating"

It was a huge thrill to be able to photograph these animals.  Of course, I knew better than to get any closer.  (That's what zoom lenses are for).

I got extremely close

Later in the day, while riding one of the park's shuttle buses, we passed by another herd of elk, foraging along the main road.  These animals must be used to humans, as the heavy auto traffic rumbling by didn't faze them in the least.

Very cool to see these graceful animals

The next morning, I walked to the campground's water spigot, and discovered two deer drinking from the puddle that had formed underneath.

Deer waiting for me to finish filling my water bottle

The deer seemed quite annoyed when I forced them to move.  They hung close by, just waiting for me to finish.  I only had my phone with me, but was able to get a couple of cute shots.  I was amused by the front deer's expression.  He (or she) seemed to say "hurry up and get your water already!"

Friendly mule

My last critter sighting wasn't a wild animal, but I was thrilled just the same.  During my hike down into the canyon, I met up with one of the mule trains.  I enjoyed trying to capture images of these hard-working critters.  More photos coming in my next post!

P.S.  If you missed my first Grand Canyon post, you can find it here.

Sharing with:  Saturday's Critters

Grand Canyon, The Introduction

The seed was planted late last August.

I met up with blogging friends Hans and Lisa while they were visiting the northern Oregon coast.  During our customary post-hike brewery stop, Hans mentioned their plans to be near Sedona, Arizona the following March.  Both he and Lisa invited me to come visit.  They both raved about the fantastic red rock scenery, adding "you'll be in photographic heaven."

Hmmm......I'd miss a week of ski season, and March usually had the best conditions.  But on the flip side, this was a chance to visit an amazing area with my own personal tour guides.  I'd be a fool to pass up such a great opportunity.  After mulling it over during the fall months, in early January I decided to go for it.  After all, life is short.

Grand Canyon just after sunset

Having never been anywhere near Sedona, I took to the internet for research.  Lo and behold, I discovered the Grand Canyon's South Rim was not far away.  Although I'd visited the North Rim in October 2015, the South Rim remained an elusive bucket list item.  An additional two-hour drive would take me right there.  This was a side trip I just had to tack on!  So plans were made to fly into Phoenix, rent a vehicle, and spend the first two days at the Grand Canyon before heading back south to Sedona.

Now for accommodations.  Being a cheapskate, I didn't want to pay a bundle of cash to stay in a motel at the Park.  I considered just getting a campsite and sleeping in my rental car.  But that meant bringing along some sort of bedding that would take up precious suitcase space.

Mather Point

Then a friend suggested looking into renting a camper van.  I found a place in Phoenix that offered just such a vehicle.  Not only did the rear area convert into a bed, the very back had a kitchen, complete with fridge, sink and Coleman stove.  Dishes and bedding were also included.  And I discovered their prices were a tiny bit cheaper than renting a car (although I later discovered my auto insurance didn't cover RVs, necessitating the purchase of additional insurance).  So I booked the van and a campsite at the Grand Canyon for two nights.  Pieces were falling into place nicely for "Linda's Great Adventure."

My ride

Finally, the day arrived.  I was a tiny bit nervous about trying to navigate such a large vehicle in Phoenix traffic, but quickly discovered the van, although way bigger than my Subaru, wasn't too difficult to drive.  It didn't take long before I left the metro area freeways behind.  Away I drove through barren, catcus-filled desert.

My first Arizona surprise - the large number of long, steep hills between Phoenix and Flagstaff.  (I was particularly amused by the warning to turn off air conditioning on the first big climb out of town.)  The van didn't like going uphill at all, and plodded along in the slow lane.  But, as I discovered, Flagstaff is at an elevation of 7000 feet (which produced an unwelcome weather event two days later) and up is the only way to get there.

Kitchen in the back!

It took about 4 hours of driving to reach the South Rim.  After watching several death-defying near misses from vehicles passing when they shouldn't on the final road into the park, I was more than ready to leave my van at the campground.  Hoping to catch the sunset, I quickly unpacked warm clothes and my camera gear.  Now which way to the Canyon?
  

Warm light just after sunrise

I quickly discovered the park's extensive shuttle bus system.  A ranger at the campground directed me to a nearby stop.  I watched the sun slowly sink while impatiently waiting for a bus to arrive.  Daylight was running out fast.  Just as I was contemplating finding the rim on foot, a bus finally pulled up.  Nearing the Visitor Center, the sky began turning amazing shades of red and pink.  Oh no, I was missing the show!

Hopping off, I got turned around (being in a unfamiliar place at dusk didn't help) and wasted precious time trying to locate a path that led to the rim.   By the time I finally found the way to Mather Point, it was too late.  The sky had turned dark.  I met a huge crowd of people, all  heading in the opposite direction. 

The light has yet to reach the canyon bottom

Well, I was here now.  Sunset or not, I was seeing this canyon.  Walking out onto Mather Point's rocky promontory, the Grand Canyon's rippled features spread out before me.  It was just as breathtaking in twilight.  I grabbed my camera, turned up the ISO as high as it would go, and took photos anyway.  And to my surprise, although a bit grainy, I liked the colorful images that were captured.

Peek a boo

A wide, paved path paralleled the canyon's rim.  Although the sun was long gone, a tiny bit of light remained in the sky.  After sitting all day I could really use the exercise.  My map showed the rim path led a mile and half to a short connector trail that would take me back to the campground.  I had my headlamp, so why not walk back?

So. Many. Photo. Subjects

After a hot drive, the cool night air felt wonderful.  And the star-lit sky was beautiful.  My twilight walk was so pleasant, I kept my headlamp off.  Several other groups of people had the same idea, and I met many folks out for a nighttime stroll along the canyon rim.

Eroded ridge

But past Yavapai Point, the sky turned pitch-black, and the crowds thinned to nearly zero.  Nothing more to see, the headlamp came on and I anxiously followed the paved path further.  Although my map showed it was only another 3/4 mile to the campground connector trail, this stretch seemed to take much longer.  I began to realize walking at night in an unfamiliar place was probably not the smartest thing I'd ever done.  But luckily, the connector trail was well-marked, and after a small hiccup blundering through a road construction area, I located the campground and my campsite.  

Someone hanging out on the edge

The next day, I had aspirations of rising early and catching sunrise over the canyon.  But I'd neglected to check what time the sun came up.  Bedding down in my van, I decided to play things by ear.  (Before going to sleep, I drank a bunch of water and figured I'd naturally wake up when nature called). 

Can you spot the two guys?

But....a warm bed is hard to leave on a cold, dark morning.  The next morning I overslept, and totally missed the sunrise.

Fantastic!

Finally getting my act together, I headed back towards the canyon rim.  Although contemplating taking the bus back towards the visitor center, I didn't feel like waiting and instead retraced the previous night's route in reverse. 

Wrinkled land

Now that it was daylight, I could see everything I'd missed.  The canyon was as grand as ever, tiered layers of colorful eroded rock as far as the eye could see.

Mather Point in the morning

I walked the rim path all the way back to the visitor center, snapping copious photos.  Sadly, the harsh morning light didn't make for great photography conditions, and I wasn't happy with most of my images.

Top of the world

But the day was young, and I had lots of sights to see.  And high on my wish list, I hoped to explore a bit of the canyon taking a hike below its rim.  Coming soon in a future post!