Many of you who follow my blog know I'm a National Park junkie. One of my goals is to visit as many US National Parks as I can. So when travelling someplace, I always check to see if there's one nearby.
Late last October brought me to Orange County, California for my aunt's 85th birthday party. After a little research, I discovered Joshua Tree NP was a mere 2 1/2 hour drive away.
The stars of the park - Joshua Trees!
At first I really didn't know much about Joshua Tree NP. It wasn't on my "must visit" radar until I started reading posts from this blog. The blog author is a frequent visitor and takes amazing photos of the landscape and night skies over JTNP.
Yahoo, I made it!
I couldn't pass up an opportunity to check another NP off my list, so I decided to rent a car and brave the Southern California traffic. Although I live in a rather large city, Portland was a drop in the bucket compared to the densely populated Los Angeles metro freeways. But I bolstered my courage and successfully got through all the congestion in one piece. After an hour or so of white-knuckle driving, I left the suburbs behind for the Mojave Desert's desolate plains.
These trees are like nothing I've ever seen before
Encompassing over 795,000 acres in Southern California, Joshua Tree NP is located in an empty corner where the Mojave Desert meets the Colorado Desert. Named for the large number of unique spiky Joshua Trees that grow here, this park's landscape also features otherworldly jumbles of granite boulders, popular with rock climbers. Hiking, camping, and night sky viewing are some of the other activities visitors can enjoy.
Split Rock
My plan was to enter the park at the town of Twentynine Palms, located on its northern border. Most of the park's popular attractions were situated in this area and the town was large enough to have services. Upon arriving, I grabbed lunch from a nearby supermarket and stopped by the National Park headquarters to purchase my pass and obtain a park map. Due to extremely hot summer temperatures, the HQ office was full of warnings about having adequate water before venturing into the park. Even though it was late October, and temps were in the mid 50's, their ominous words made me double check that all my water bottles were full.
Desert scenery
Time to see the park! From Twentynine Palms I took a road southward for several miles through barren country. Homes were scattered about, their front yards landscaped with nothing but rock and a few cactus. Upon reaching the North Entrance Station, I excitedly pulled over to get a photo by the park sign. Another couple was there doing the same thing, so we traded cell phones and took pics of each other.
More desert scenery
From the North Entrance, I continued my drive along appropriately named Park Boulevard. Upon spotting my very first Joshua Tree, I couldn't help but pull over to take a photo. Little did I know there would be plenty of opportunities further into the park.
Interesting rock shapes
At the first junction, I impulsively turned right and followed this road to a picnic area called Live Oak. In need of a spot to eat lunch, I bumped over a short gravel driveway to a parking lot with picnic tables and a pit toilet. The tables were all occupied, so I continued to a deserted second parking area. I sat in the back of my car with the hatch raised and enjoyed my deli sandwich while checking out the landscape.
Mineral vein running through the rock
Across the gravel drive was a big patch of Joshua trees. Like something out of a Dr. Seuss book, these trees were like nothing I'd ever seen before. I admired their spiky green "leaf" clusters and fibrous bark. Multiple branches sprouted from the trunks, reminding me of arms on a Saguaro cactus.
As you can see, the Joshua trees are quite tall
Built to withstand a hot, harsh desert environment, the Joshua trees are really not true trees, but a species of yucca. As a way to conserve moisture, their waxy, spiny leaves expose very little surface area. Joshua trees grow at a sluggish rate of one inch per year, and can eventually reach heights of 40 feet. Cream-colored flowers bloom in the early spring months, and from these the tree will grow branches.
Prickly close-up
Another interesting tidbit I learned - the Joshua trees are thought to haven gotten their name from a group of Mormon settlers crossing the Mojave Desert in the 19th century. The tree's role in guiding them through the desert combined with its unique shape reminded the settlers of biblical story where Joshua kept his arms extended for a long period of time, enabling the Israelites to conquer Canaan.
A whole forest of J-trees
After finishing my sandwich, I drove to the road's opposite side to check out another picnic area named "Split Rock." True to its name, this place featured a gigantic boulder sporting a huge crack down the middle. I hiked a short distance around the area, taking in the barren, rock-strewn landscape. A few low, brushy shrubs were beginning to show a bit of autumn colors.
J-trees with the Little San Bernadino Mountains in the background
Further down the road from Split Rock, I stopped at Sheep Pass campground. There was a lot of interesting looking rocks here, so I decided to park in the day use area and have a walk around.
A short trail
The huge boulders that littered the landscape were tan colored. I thought at first they were all sandstone, but after a bit of research learned the formations were composed of granite. The rocky piles strewn throughout the park were formed by magma rising from deep within the earth and intruding into the overlying rock. After cooling and crystallizing, the granite formed many cracks and continued to uplift. Groundwater worked into the granite, widening the cracks and rounding sharp edges. Eventually the surface soil eroded, leaving heaps of these monoliths scattered throughout the land.
Colorful scrub brush
I enjoyed hiking through the boulder fields at Sheep Pass. User trails snaked around the rock piles, and no one seemed to mind visitors climbing them. I puffed up a smaller boulder just to get a panoramic view from on top.
More desert color
From Sheep Pass, I drove to another road junction. One direction took visitors to an overlook called Keys View. I wanted to check that out, but sadly the road was closed for construction that day. So I turned and headed back northward towards a place called Hidden Valley. I made a few stops at pullouts along the way, hopping out to photograph more of the desolate, but very interesting landscape. It was here that I found the largest concentration of Joshua trees. There were entire forests spread across this empty land. Barren peaks of the Little San Bernardino Mountains rose far in the distance. Although there were a few trailheads and numerous hiking trails, due to my limited time and the fact I was alone, I opted not to wander very far from the parking lots.
This tree was most striking in the afternoon sunlight
Due to its broiling hot summer weather, I'd heard that the busy time for Joshua Tree NP was the fall to winter months. But crowds were minimal this weekday in late October. The only place that was really bustling was the parking area for a place called "Skull Rock" (which I visited later that afternoon on my return through the park.)
Rocky landscape
After spending all afternoon exploring places along the main park road, I headed back east towards the road I'd driven in on. Still having a bit more daylight left, I turned down the main north-south park route, called Pinto Basin Road. Passing a parking area for the Heart and Arch Rock trail, I decided there was time for one more short hike before I needed to find a place to photograph sunset.
Heart rock in late afternoon sun
A short, one-mile path wandered through the barren landscape. After crossing a small wash and climbing up the other side, I came upon a large boulder in the shape of a heart. Late afternoon sun illuminated the granite face a golden hue. It was really cool to come across such an interesting-shaped large rock in the middle of a desert. Having the place to myself, I hung out for several minutes photographing Heart Rock from many different angles.
Heart rock sunburst
From Heart Rock, a side trail led to another large stony feature called Arch Rock. It took a bit of climbing up a large rocky ridge to reach, but I arrived at this well known landmark just as the low angle afternoon sun was lighting it up brilliantly. Good timing for sure! Another very interesting formation. I was glad I'd decided to make the quick trek to check out both.
Arch Rock
Upon reaching my car again, I noticed the sun was starting to descend towards the horizon. It was time to find a good area to photograph sunset. I'd originally thought about setting up at the Cholla Cactus Garden, a few miles down the road, but I wasn't sure I had enough time to get there. So I drove a short distance south from the Heart Rock Trailhead before noticing a roadside pullout. Small Joshua trees rose from the desert floor and a few large rocky hills could be seen in the distance. Night was now fast approaching - this would have to do.
Sunset over the park
Sunset wasn't spectacular. I'd hoped the few clouds hanging around the horizon would turn colors in the setting sun, but instead old sol sank below the cloud layer and that was that. However, it was an interesting experience being in the desert at sunset. The air grew quite chilly. A few coyotes yipped in the distance. The quiet calm of my surroundings was quite peaceful. However, I was getting hungry and was eager to check in to my motel and get dinner. So back along the park road I drove, heading towards Twentynine Palms.
A few colors in the clouds
I wasn't super impressed with Twentynine Palms. There weren't a lot of places to eat, and the brew pub I finally chose was loud, crowded, and expensive. The Best Western I stayed in was a bit shabby. The parking lot was dimly lit and the outer door to the room corridor (usually requiring room key access) was left wide open. A group of men congregated underneath my second floor window, talking loudly for at least an hour. As a female traveling alone, this place didn't feel very safe at all. I made sure my room door was bolted tight before retiring for the night.
Sunrise at Cholla Cactus garden
The next morning I decided to capture sunrise over the desert, so it was an early wake-up call. After checking out of the motel and a quick trip to Starbucks for breakfast, I headed down the dark park road towards Cholla Cactus Gardens. A park brochure suggested this was a good place to catch sunrise and it was one of the few attractions I didn't visit the day before.
Morning light over the Chollas
Chollas are a tree-like plant with thousands of spiky needles growing from its branches, commonly found in the SW deserts of the US. I'd heard that you don't want to get very close to a cholla, because their spines easily detach and will stick deep into one's skin. Due to the ease of attachment, they are sometimes referred to as "jumping cholla."
Mountains and Chollas
I was the first vehicle in the parking area and due to the cold and darkness, I sat in my car until the sky began to lighten. Then I ventured out into the cholla garden, being careful not to get too close to any of the cacti. Luckily, the park had constructed a boardwalk for the first quarter mile and that provided a bit of distance between visitors and the cholla spikes. The cactus garden was quite impressive - thousands of spiky plants stretching across the vast empty plain, anchored by tall, barren mountains. After a disappointing sunset the night before, sunrise redeemed itself with a lovely orange glow in the sky. Sun rays backlit the cholla spines, creating interesting photographic effects. Once the sun had risen beyond the horizon, I lingered in the cholla field, taking copious photos. It was a beautiful and fascinating place.
Backlit spikes - don't want to touch those!
The rest of my morning was spent retracing the same drive from the prior day. After having blah, overcast skies most of yesterday, today I was graced with a lovely blue atmosphere. So much better for photos, I revisited several places just to capture the landscape with nicer light.
Blue sky day
I ended my morning with a stop at the National Park Visitor Center and Oasis of Mara, located on the outskirts of Twentynine Palms. The oasis was underwhelming. There were a few palm trees that hid a small pond underneath and half of the trail encircling the area was closed for construction. Then it being late morning, I headed back to Orange County, to hopefully miss rush hour traffic.
Bendy J-tree
Although Joshua Tree NP was a fascinating place, I realized right away I wasn't a desert person. It was so barren and bleak - a very inhospitable environment. I can only imagine how sweltering it must get during summer months. I'm not a hot weather person and much prefer the green, forested environment of my beloved Pacific NW. However if I ever return I'd like to see JTNP in the spring when the cacti are in bloom.
It was great to check another National Park off my list and explore an environment totally different from my own.
(A multi-part recap of my recent September trip to Switzerland.)
The next morning it was time to bid farewell to our tour-mates and Tony our fearless leader. At morning breakfast in our Bern hotel I was able to see quite a few people, and wished everyone safe journeys. Most were heading back to Zurich to catch flights home, but a few were extending their trip to explore more of Switzerland.
Clock tower selfie
Kim had booked us tickets to Zurich on the noon train, so we had most of the morning to kill. Not wanting to sit in the hotel, we decided to take a final walk around Bern. I was feeling much better, and luckily Kim wasn't showing any signs of catching my crud. After enjoying such lovely, sunny weather the previous day, we exited our hotel into a drizzly world. The morning's rain was a bit of a letdown, but Kim and I flipped up our jacket hoods and soldiered on.
Waiting for the show
We decided to head back to the Zytglogge clock tower in hopes of catching its mechanical figures in action. We thought that they did their show at the top of each hour.
Sadly, we arrived at the end of the show and only got to see one of the figures moving. Later, I learned that the performance begins at three minutes before the hour. I was able to get the above video showing a bit of the tail end.
Zähringerbrunnen fountain
From the Zytglogge we continued down the street, past another colorful fountain. Zähringerbrunnen fountain was built in 1535, as a memorial to the founder of Bern, Berchtold von Zähringer. The fountain depicted a bear in full armor with a bear cub at its feet.
Stadttheater
At the end of another street, we glimpsed a stately building with columns at its entrance. A large, colorful giraffe stood at the front door. Was this an art museum? I later learned that this was Bern's theater and opera house, called Stadttheater.
Fall colors beginning to show along Aare River
From the Stadttheater we noticed a high bridge crossing the Aare River. Kim and I decided to check out the views from on top. We walked about a quarter of the distance across the span. From our lofty perch we had great views the tree-lined waterway and a few city buildings.
Streetcar approaching bridge
This was an important transit bridge as well, evidenced by the dual tracks and frequent number of light rail trains that passed by.
Ringgepark
Retracing our steps back down the bridge, I spied a statue in a nearby plaza. Of course, Kim and I had to see what it was all about. The plaza was called Ringgepark and the statue commemorated Rudolph von Erlach, a knight and commander of the Swiss Confederation forces.
My buddy bear
The bear being the symbol of Bern, by now I'd come to realize there were bears all over this town. The four bears surrounding this statue continued the city theme.
Stacked apartments
From the Ringgepark plaza, another street dipped steeply downhill. Apartment buildings stair-stepped with the street grade. It looked interesting, so Kim and I followed the pavement around a corner.
Balcony greenery
The next street led us to a large cathedral perched high above the roadway. We ascended a staircase that took us to the church's ornate wooden front door.
Very interesting church door
This lovely building housed the Church of St. Peter and Paul, a lone Catholic church in a mostly Protestant country. The door was open, so Kim and I walked inside. However, there wasn't a lot going on, so we didn't linger long.
Church of St. Peter and Paul
It was nice to have one last walk around Bern before we had to leave for Zurich. But our time was fast running out. About an hour before our train's scheduled departure, Kim and I headed for the station. It was a bustling place, full of travelers heading to all points of the country. It was a bit confusing to find the correct platform, so we ended up asking the person behind the ticket counter. We didn't want to miss our train! Wanting to avoid using the train's bathrooms, (I was still traumatized from our first journey) before boarding I headed for the station WC. In line I discovered I didn't have the correct change for the restrooms. Thankfully a nice woman behind me took pity on this clueless American and slipped me the right coin combination.
Arcade side view
It was a full train departing for Zurich, but Kim and I hustled on board and found good seats and a place to stow our suitcases. We even spotted one of our tour couples on the same train as us! It was an uneventful hour and a half journey. Since I was still having Covid symptoms, both Kim and I stayed masked up for the entire trip.
Fishie fountain
The train deposited us back at the Zurich station, where we'd gotten our first look at Switzerland, nearly two weeks ago. It was a full circle moment. A lot had happened since then, and that bleary first day now seemed ages ago. After gallivanting all around Switzerland I really felt like a seasoned traveler.
American sports team store in Zurich
We'd booked the same room at the same hotel where Kim and I had spent our very first night in Switzerland. However, Kim didn't want to stay in a room with this Covid positive sickie, so she tried to get a second room at the hotel. Unfortunately, there was a big bike race in town, so there were no openings. But lucky for Kim, a Best Western a few blocks away did have a room available. So we spent our last night in Switzerland not only in separate rooms, but also in separate hotels.
Calm after the storm, Zurich
After checking in and dropping our bags in our respective hotels, Kim and I set out to find someplace for a late lunch. We ended up at an American-themed hamburger place, which surprisingly wasn't bad. After stuffing ourselves, we needed to walk off the calories, so a stroll around town was in order.
Locks on a pedestrian bridge
Storm clouds were gathering, but Kim and I were determined to get another look at Zurich. Crowds of people were everywhere, and many of the main streets were closed for the bike race. Waiting to cross a fenced-off street, we watched several men on bicycles, pedaling furiously, fly by the crowd with their support vehicles in hot pursuit.
Beautiful morning in Zurich
It was fun to revisit some of the places along Zurich's Limmat River. Kim and I window-shopped along one of the main retail streets. There were tons of stores, selling everything you could imagine. There was even a place that featured clothing emblazoned with American sports team's logos.
The Swiss love long names!
Naturally, after we'd walked quite a distance from our lodging, the skies opened up and it absolutely poured. Kim and I decided this was our sign to head back, so we splashed through the puddles, ducking under awnings wherever we could. The bike race didn't stop for the rain, and I was amazed that the bikers kept going as fast as ever - I was afraid they'd skid and crash on the wet pavement.
Film festival banners
By the time we finally made it to our respective lodgings both of us were totally soaked. I suggested we chill and dry out for awhile, and then meet up later for dinner. But the storm didn't let up in the least. Rain pounded on the skylights in my room for several hours. Dry and cozy in my bed, I didn't feel like going out and getting wet again. Plus, I'd eaten so much for lunch, I wasn't the least bit hungry. Texting Kim, she felt the same way. We had a couple of long flights ahead of us tomorrow, so getting extra sleep wasn't a bad idea. So our last night was spent separately in our respective hotels.
Strolling the streets
My final day in Switzerland dawned clear. Last night's rainstorm was a distant memory as blue skies flooded through the skylights. It was hard to believe my trip was coming to an end. Part of me wanted to start all over again in Lucerne. But the part of me still recovering from Covid was ready to go home, sleep in my own bed, and get relief from familiar, American-brand cold medicines.
Street scene
Our flight didn't leave until afternoon, so Kim and I had one final morning in Zurich. After breakfast, we decided to take advantage of the nice weather with one final stroll through downtown.
Clock tower peek-a-boo
We meandered through cobblestone streets, down narrow alleys, past colorful buildings complete with blooming flowers and cheery shutters. We walked by impressive cathedrals with tall clock towers, and buildings with lots of greenery climbing outer walls.
Artwork on a wall
Kim and I rambled along the waterfront, where trees that had been entirely green when we first arrived were now showing off the beginnings of fall color transitions.
More beautiful buildings
Enjoy the following images from our final morning in Zurich.
Going up....
Lovely metalwork on this door
Back alley
Cute shutters
Red flowers brighten the buildings
Bike race starting line
Zurich marina
Fall leaves starting to show color
After spending a couple of pleasant hours revisiting our favorite Zurich places, it was time to retrieve our luggage from the hotels and head to the train station for the last time. It was a quick trip to the airport, and after standing in many long lines - to check bags, security, and passport control - all in different terminals - we finally arrived at our gate. Kim and I had about a half hour to grab lunch before boarding our first flight to New York. (And, yes we both masked up in the airport and throughout both flights.)
St. Peter church steeple
Sadly on our second flight, the crud she'd valiantly tried to avoid finally caught up with poor Kim and she didn't feel well the entire way home. The next day she tested positive for Covid. The day after that, I discovered I'd also infected my poor hubby (just call me "typhoid Linda.") But on a positive note, my nasty zit had finally healed enough that I no longer had to wear a band-aid on my face.
Fraumünster Steeple
This trip had many high points, but a few really low points. The Swiss countryside was gorgeous, most of our tour-mates were great, and I had a lot of interesting experiences (like learning to yodel - ha, ha!) However, the weather didn't always cooperate (especially during our full day in Mürren), Switzerland was really expensive, and some of the food I'd looked forward to tasting (beer and chocolate for example) were disappointing. It was our guide Tony's first Rick Steves tour on his own, and although I thought he did an overall good job, he had some bumps along the way - I was definitely spoiled by Pascal, our Ireland guide the year before. And of course it didn't help that I was ill nearly the entire trip, first with my facial infection and then coming down with Covid.
Cluster of white buildings
What were my favorite places in Switzerland? Probably anyplace with mountains, but especially Mürren and the Lauterbrunnen Valley. And the gorgeous city of Lucerne was a close second. My least favorite place was the town of Lugano, but I wasn't feeling well the day we stayed there so that probably clouded my opinion.
Farewell, Zurich!
I have to give a big shout-out to Kim for being such a good friend and travel buddy - and for putting up with my various illnesses on this trip! It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and I'm glad I got to share it with her. I had a lot of fun with our new tour friends Karen and Cindy - really enjoyed their companionship. And a special thanks to Lisa, our assistant tour guide, for her help navigating me through the Swiss health care system.
At Zurich train station, heading for the airport
It's been extremely rewarding to relive my trip through the creation of these blog posts. Every photo edited reminded me of Switzerland's soaring mountain peaks, the stately clock towers, the cute villages, and stunning lakes. Every word I typed brought me back to my emotions the first time I saw the Alps, tasted Swiss chocolate, or walked beside ancient castle walls. I've got a long list of places I'd like to visit (and revisit) in this beautiful country, so hopefully I'll get to return someday.
However, in 2025 Kim and I have another international trip on the calendar - in June we'll be taking a Rick Steves tour of Scandinavia - and Debbie and Alicia, our friends from last year's Ireland adventure, will be joining us. More "adventures of Kim and Linda" coming soon!
