(A multi-part recap of my early June Scandinavia trip.)
Our time on the charming Danish island of Ærø was officially over. On day 8 of our Rick Steves tour, my friends and I packed our bags and boarded a ferry that would return us back to the mainland.
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| On the ferry again! |
It was a gloomy, rainy day as I stood on the ferry's outer deck and bid the town of Ærøskøbing farewell. The wind was blowing fiercely and it was cold, so most everyone in my tour group went inside. But outside for the photo opportunities, I braved the brisk sea air.
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| Ærøskøbing harbor |
The ferry's engines roared to life and we began to move away from the dock. As the boat motored out to sea, the shoreline of Ærø became smaller and smaller.
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| Goodbye, Ærø! |
I hung out on deck with Kim and Debbie for awhile. Then they both decided to head inside. Another tour-mate Rodney stuck it out with me a bit longer, but then rain forced us both downstairs to the waiting area.
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| One last look at the town |
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| Hanging out on deck |
The inside waiting area was warm and cozy. A bunch of people from our tour gathered around one of the tables and were all having lively conversations. Then a Danish man sitting at the next table glared at us and made the "shhhh" gesture with his finger and lips. I saw a sign affixed to the wall, and even not knowing a word of Danish, figured out that we must be sitting in the "quiet" section of the waiting area. Whoops! Informing my tour-mates of this, we all tried to lower our voices, but that lasted about a minute. It didn't take long before one of the ferry crew came over and told us to pipe down. (Those loud, uncouth Americans!)
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| There goes the other ferry! |
Luckily, we were approaching Svendborg, our ferry's destination, and it was almost time to get back on the bus. To the relief of the surrounding passengers, we exited the quiet room and headed below deck. My tour-mates and I gathered around our bus and I marveled at the number of cars and other vehicles that fit into the belly of this ferry - especially a full size bus!
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| It was amazing that our big bus fit in the ferry |
Deboarding from the ferry, our bus pointed back northward. Our plan for the day was to drive across Denmark to the town of Helsingør for lunch and a castle tour. Then we would take another short ferry ride across the Baltic Sea, leaving Denmark for Sweden's shores. Tonight's destination was the coastal town of Varberg, Sweden.
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| Lunch in Helsingør |
Retracing some of our route from two days ago, our bus motored back through the Danish countryside, across the same long bridge spanning the Baltic sea, and northward past Copenhagen. Per all the Rick Steves tours I've traveled with, our guide Nina kept us entertained on the bus with copious information about all things Danish. It's nice to learn about the country you are visiting, and her monologues were interesting and most appreciated. Also, about every two hours we'd stop for a restroom break and a chance to stretch our legs.
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| Had to have a goodie! |
We pulled into Helsingør around lunchtime. Nina had chosen a large street food market, offering several different dining options, as our lunch spot. I was more than ready for a break - not only was my stomach growling, I also needed to use the restroom badly. The bus parked and we all filed out, heading for the food market. But upon reaching the building, my tour-mates and I found the doors locked tight. Today happened to be Sunday and the place apparently wasn't open that day of the week.
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| Castle selfie |
Everyone headed back to the bus to inform Nina that the food market was closed. But Nina was such an experienced guide, she didn't get flustered in the least. Without hesitation, Nina calmly directed us to the building next door, an event venue with a cafeteria. (And more importantly for me at the time - restrooms!)
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| Helsingør harbor |
So after a visit to the "WC" my friends Kim, Debbie, Alicia and I enjoyed a sandwich and beverage of choice from the fully stocked event venue's cafeteria. For cafeteria food, it was pretty good. They had a large display case full of baked goodies, and I couldn't resist going back for a chocolate tart topped with two luscious strawberries.
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| Kronborg Castle |
The event venue was located on Helsingør's waterfront, and after finishing our lunch my friends and I checked out the wide variety of boats moored here. It was also near the other attraction we'd traveled here to visit - Kronborg Castle.
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| Looking across the moat |
We had about 45 minutes to tour the castle grounds, so my friends and I decided we'd better shake a leg and get over there. It was a quick 5-minute walk to the main entrance area, a bridge spanning the castle's wide, deep moat.
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| Moat bridge to the castle |
Kronborg Castle is best known as the setting for Shakespeare's famous play "Hamlet." It was originally a fortress strategically built in the 1420s on the narrowest portion of Øresund, the sound that separates Denmark from Sweden. Danish King Eric VII of Pomerania used this fortress for the collection of "sound dues" levied on any ship passing through this channel. These dues eventually provided nearly two-thirds of Denmark's entire income.
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| Time for a visit! |
King Frederik II built Kronborg Castle on this fortress site and he and Queen Sofie lived here in the late 1500s. A fire in 1629 destroyed everything but the castle's chapel. The castle was rebuilt, but the new interior lacked the opulence of its earlier decor.
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| Castle view from the entrance arch |
In 1658, Kronborg Castle was captured by the Swedes, who looted the place and stole many valuable art treasures. In 1785, now back in Danish hands, the castle ceased to function as a royal residence and was converted into Army barracks. After the Army left in 1923, Kronborg Castle was renovated and opened to the public.
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| Beautiful tower |
After traversing the moat bridge and passing through its arched entrance, my friends and I got a good look at Kronborg Castle and the nearby colorful barrack buildings. A paved footpath circled the castle, but since we didn't have time for a proper tour of the interior (plus it cost money), our plan was to explore the castle's outside.
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| Military barracks on the castle grounds |
The castle's outer area had plenty to see. Another moat encircled the building itself. The barracks buildings were sited on the moat opposite of the castle. Tall rock walls held back an earthen dike adjacent to the Øresund. Every once and awhile I'd notice barred windows or a large wooden door flush with the wall. Was there an ancient dungeon inside?
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| Old cellar (or dungeon?) door |
The castle moat had high brick walls holding in the water. The walls were stained with what appeared to be black lichens. It was amazing to me that this brickwork had survived many centuries.
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| Ancient brick moat walls |
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| Checking out the castle |
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| Castle tour entrance |
We passed by a short bridge spanning the inside moat. This was the entrance to the castle building itself. If one wanted to go inside for a tour, that was where you paid your admission fee.
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| Following the paved path around the castle |
But Kim, Debbie and I didn't have time for a tour so we continued on past the moat bridge. It started to rain again, so Alicia decided to head back to a drier place.
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| More tower views |
As we continued around Kronborg Castle, a tall brick wall blocked our view of some of the castle itself. Corner towers at each end rose above the wall, as did the roof and part of the castle.
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| Side view |
With my camera, I was able to zoom in a little bit and capture some of the exterior detail.
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| One wall had many sculptures |
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| A jail cell? |
About two-thirds of the way around the castle, we came upon a bunch of military barracks and a few cannons on display.
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Old cannons
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Of course we took this occasion to pose for a few photos. However, in the image below, I probably didn't choose the best location to place my head....
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| Probably not the best place to put my head... |
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| Colorful barrack buildings |
At this far end, another walkway branched out from the castle path, following Helsingør's harbor. Kim, Debbie and I detoured over to check it out.
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| Helsingør town view |
We were treated to a few nice town views, and a great vantage across the ocean strait. There on the other side was Sweden, our next destination.
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| Interesting sculpture on Helsingør waterfront |
One large sculpture dominated this waterfront walk. It was of a man fighting a dozen snakes. I later looked it up and the sculpture is called "Hercules and the Hydra" and depicts the Greek legend of Hercules battling a multi-headed water snake.
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| More boats and town views |
With time fast running out, my friends and I had to skedaddle back to our waiting bus. It had been a whirlwind tour of Kronborg Castle - another attraction I wish we could've had more time to explore.
Passing back by the event center where we'd had lunch, the place was now crowded with costumed young people marching in some sort of parade. Past the event center, they were all gathering in an adjacent plaza, which appeared to be set up with booths and a stage. Nina told us the occasion for the gathering, but now nearly three months later, I can't remember if it was a parade or protest.
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| Some type of parade/demonstration was going on |
Boarding our bus, driver Roger carefully navigated around the sea of young people spreading out in the street where we'd parked. My tour-mates and I noticed a few young men from the crowd using the adjacent parking lot bushes as restrooms, not remotely concerned they were in full view of a bus of American tourists.
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| Crossing back into Sweden on another ferry |
Past the mass of young people, it was time to board our second ferry of the day, for a short 20-minute journey across the Øresund to Sweden. Once our bus had parked in the lower deck, we had just enough time to deboard and run upstairs for a quick potty break in the ferry's restrooms. This ferry was super fancy. It had several eating establishments and even retail shops on board. Seemed a bit much for such a short ride!
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| Nina passing out treats |
Landing on Swedish shores, our bus left the ferry and drove through a small checkpoint area, where we were stopped briefly and then allowed to continue on. Apparently there's no passport check needed when crossing between neighboring Scandinavian countries.
We now had a 2-hour drive to Varberg, so everyone settled in for the journey. To keep us in good spirits, Nina came through the bus aisle passing out more treats, this time Swedish fish candy and salted black licorice. Apparently Danes love their salted black licorice. I tried a piece and definitely did not care for it though.
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| Our unique hotel in Varberg |
Upon our arrival in Varberg, Nina warned us that tonight's hotel was a bit unique. Apparently the owner had a thing for the Russian revolutionary leader Lenin, and had posted copious images of the man all over the building. When Kim and I reached our room, we found that to be true - several Lenin posters graced our bedroom walls. But the place was also decorated with vintage furniture and a large bookshelf hung from one wall. Our bathroom was resplendent in a mixture of bright primary colors, including the tiled shower. I wish I would've taken more photos of our room but I apparently only managed one.
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| Varberg town church |
After getting settled everyone regrouped outside the hotel, and Nina took us for a short walk around town. Varberg wasn't a huge place, and it didn't take long to see all the highlights. She took us down to the harbor, past the many sailboats and fishing vessels docked nearby. Situated along Sweden's southwestern coastline, the sea played a big part in Varberg's economy.
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| Old fortress at Varberg watefront |
Beside the harbor was a large, elaborate-looking structure on piers. This apparently was a bathhouse, offering saunas and cold dips into the ocean waters.
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| Bathhouse at Varberg waterfront |
On a hill overlooking the harbor I noticed many brick structures. It looked like some sort of fort. But our group didn't have time to investigate. It was time to find some dinner.
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| The tour group on a town walk |
While walking through the downtown core, Nina had pointed out a few restaurants. No group dinner tonight, we were on our own to find some chow. Although the waterfront area had a few places to eat, it appeared many of them were either closed or had a private party going on.
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| Selfie with Lotti |
So Kim, Debbie, Alicia and myself strolled back from the waterfront to Varberg's downtown area. We peeked into the restaurant across the street from our hotel, and after obtaining an English menu, decided to give the place a try.
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| Not only for kids! |
Although the Danes had been nice enough, it was really great to be back amongst the super-friendly Swedes once again. The young lady waiting tables was so helpful, even though she struggled to speak English. And having the restaurant staff greet us with the cheerful Swedish "hei hei" was endearing.
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| Debbie enjoying her mussels |
Of course, being so close to an ocean we all ordered some sort of seafood. Debbie had a huge bucket of mussels, Kim and I got the cod special, and I'm not sure what Alicia had (even though I took a photo of her meal.) The food was great, and everyone enjoyed what they ordered.
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| Alicia showing us her dinner |
Looking around the restaurant, we saw a few of our fellow tour-mates sitting at adjacent tables. Even Nina and bus driver Roger stopped in for dinner. Our group brought in so much business, some of our tour-mates told us later that the under-staffed restaurant had turned them away.
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| Interesting restaurant name, we did not eat there! |
After dinner, it was time to walk off our meal. Alicia decided to head back to the hotel, so Debbie, Kim and I wandered through the small, but cute downtown area.
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| Varberg downtown |
Colorful flags were strung above many downtown streets, giving the place a festive air. I also was intrigued by the bike lane symbol inlaid into the cobblestones, kind of like a mosaic.
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| Interesting way to mark a bike lane |
My friends and I wandered back down to the harbor area, taking in the various boats and watercraft tied up to the docks.
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| Another view of the bathhouse |
And enjoying the whimsical public art.
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| Public art |
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| Boats at the harbor |
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| Fortress overlooking the sea |
Looking uphill from the harbor I again noticed the cluster of brick buildings perched on a high point overlooking the sea. I suggested to my friends we walk over and see what they were.
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| Lovely wild rose bush |
A wide sidewalk led us to an arched opening in a wall. Through the wall, we climbed uphill past a few buildings that looked like they were shops and restaurants. But none of them were open.
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| Walking up to check out the fortress |
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| This cafe had beautiful red flowers in their window boxes |
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| Approaching the fortress |
As we climbed the steep walkway, views of the ocean and harbor below began to appear.
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| Nice views from on top |
Judging by the bikes and other items left outside, some of the homes we passed by appeared to be occupied. But we didn't see any people.
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| It appeared people lived next to the fortress |
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| My friends trudging uphill |
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| Ocean views |
My friends and I passed through another archway which came out into a walled fortress area. The place appeared to have been preserved for visitors. Although no buildings were open, and no one was around, we were able to freely wander the grounds and explore.
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| On the other side of the doorway |
Inside the inner courtyard of the fortress structure was a cobblestone plaza with a well in the middle. Again, nothing was open so we just walked around and took in the place.
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| Inside the fortress |
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| Old well |
Now on top of the bluff, the views from this vantage was exceptional. We could see the ocean stretching out into the horizon. The evening light was especially nice, casting everything in a warm glow.
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| The place had fantastic views |
I later discovered that this place was known as Varberg Fortress, a fortification that was first constructed in the late 1200s to protect against the Danes. After many attacks in the 1600s, most of the original structures were destroyed. Rebuilt in the late 1600s and early 1700s, the fortress changed hands amongst the Danes and Swedes. The fortress was used as both a military installation and prison until the 1930s. It now housed a museum and local legend said the moat around the place housed a scary sea monster (we didn't see it.)
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| Big skies |
My friends and I walked all over this fortress area, taking in the great views. We walked by a small cottage that could've been a caretaker's house. It had a nice view of a bay and lighthouse.
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| Caretaker house? |
There were even a few cannons that had been restored and placed in strategic locations overlooking the harbor.
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| A lonely cannon |
It had been a nice evening walk, stumbling upon this unexpected piece of history - a definite highlight of our short stay in Varberg. The other wonderful thing that happened as we headed back to our hotel was seeing the beginnings of a beautiful sunset over the ocean.
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| Ocean views |
Back at the hotel, I went to take a shower. Remember that expensive travel-sized bottle of conditioner I'd purchased in Copenhagen? (The one I paid $16 for?) I discovered I had left it in the bathroom at our previous hotel in Ærøskøbing. (Doh!)
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| The sun is starting to set |
Time to get some shut-eye. Our group was only spending the night here in Varberg. Tomorrow we'd hit the road again, bound for our third country of the tour, Norway.
Coming in my next post, a visit to see ancient stone carvings, a ride in a local fisherman's boat, and the bustling capital city of Oslo.
