Thursday, June 20, 2024

More From the Southern Oregon Coast

I'd had a wonderful two days reacquainting myself with Bandon's lovely beaches.  (If you missed that post, find it here.)  But I had another yurt reserved farther south in the town of Brookings, so on the third day I reluctantly began to pack up my car for the 80 mile drive.


Morning above Bandon Beach


But check in there wasn't until 4 pm, so with plenty of time to kill, I decided to take one last morning walk on Bandon Beach.


Part of Elephant Rock

The low-angle morning sun was shining from the east, flooding the beach with spectacular light.  Sauntering along the bluff high above gave me a perfect vantage to capture the seastacks glowing in sunshine.


Seastack reflection


Then I climbed down to beach level for another angle.  Some of the seastacks reflected quite nicely in the wet sand.


Face Rock

The churning waves in front of Face Rock were especially photogenic.


Yawning harbor seal


Then I strolled over to Elephant Rock to see if there were any Harbor seals around.  There were!  The blubbery mammals were chilling on some nearby rocks.


Seal pup and his mama


I spotted a seal pup and his mother nearby.  


Giving mom a kiss

The tiny baby seal was adorable, especially when he gave his mama a kiss on the nose.


Table Rock

Then, not wanting to miss low tide again, I headed over toward several prominent seastacks, where I knew from past visits had some great tidepools.


Tidepool life


And the tidepools did not disappoint!


Dueling seastars

Although the alien-shaped anemones were interesting, my favorite tidepool life form by far was the seastar.  I spotted several of these colorful creatures.  Lots of photographs may have been taken....
 

Lots of colorful seastars here!


I had to be out of my yurt in Bandon by 1 pm, so around noon I packed up the car and slowly headed south on highway 101.  


Cape Blanco Lighthouse

I made a stop at the Cape Blanco Lighthouse.  Although the lighthouse itself wasn't open to the public, it was in a very photogenic location.  A sky full of interesting clouds added drama to the scene.  I even ran into the lady I'd met on Bandon Beach the previous afternoon.  We seemed to have similar schedules - the lady was staying at the same state park in Bandon, and yesterday I kept meeting her in the bathroom!


I sent this pic to my hubby to let him know I'd made it


Then on to the very southern tip of the Oregon Coast and town of Brookings, where I had another yurt reserved at Harris Beach State Park.  After unpacking and having some chill time, I headed back out to seek sunset at a place called "Secret Beach."


A bride and groom were being photographed when I arrived


I'd stumbled upon Secret Beach during my last visit, several years ago.  However, since it had been awhile, I couldn't remember exactly which trail I'd taken or where I'd parked.  Thinking maybe I'd started at the "Natural Bridges" trailhead, I left my car there and followed a path that led northward into thick, coastal forest.  This rough trail roller-coastered through the woods, dodging rocks and large roots.  I walked for over a mile, and was getting very hot and tired.  I was just about ready to give it up when I spied a downhill path leading towards water.  Following an extremely steep trail I came out above a beach sheltered by several seastacks.  This was it!



Cool clouds above Secret Beach

The first thing I noticed was a bride and groom doing a wedding photo shoot.  The happy couple was down on the beach while their two photographers remained perched in the rocks above.  Reaching the beach required navigating a near-vertical, rocky slope that dived about 50 feet from where I stood.  I was impressed that the couple had made it down there.  After watching their half hour photo session, both bride and groom managed to climb back up the steep bank (the bride still in her wedding gown!) and the couple and their photographers left.


Sadly, the skies clouded over right before sunset

Secret Beach was a very scenic place.  A tiny, sandy beach ringed by several large, tree-topped seastacks, it was a popular place for local photographers to capture sunrise and sunset.  Although the beach below looking intriguing, I was too chicken to brave the rock scramble to reach it.  I wasn't even sure I was going to stay for sunset.  Although I'd brought my headlamp and a bright flashlight, the thought of hiking back out in the dark forest by myself wasn't appealing.  Then I met a young couple from North Carolina who were planning to stay for sunset.  I asked if could hike out with them and they replied "yes, of course."


Redwood Nature Trail


I discovered the couple were National Park junkies like me, and we had a great conversation about the parks we'd visited and the places still on our bucket lists.  They had just visited Redwood National Park, and had driven a bit further to see the Oregon Coast while they were in the neighborhood.

At first, the sky filled with small, pebbly clouds.  I got excited - if those clouds lit up at sunset, they would produce an amazing backdrop.  But sadly about 10 minutes before dusk, dull, gray clouds took over the sky.  No light was getting through those.  Sunset was a bust.


Huge redwood tree

When my new friends and I saw that the sunset show wasn't gonna happen, we decided to leave.  I followed the young couple back up the trail.  They had parked in a different pull out than me, one much closer.  We only walked about a quarter mile before arriving at their rental car.  I'd walked way too far!  However, being the nice people they were, the couple offered to shuttle me to my car.  As I settled into the back seat of the couple's car, rain began to pepper the window.  We'd made it back in the nick of time!


More giants

It absolutely poured all night, and I was glad to be in a yurt instead of tent camping, like many other poor souls in the campground.  My yurt had was made of thick canvas, featured a wooden floor elevated from the ground, and electric heat.  I was dry and cozy as a bug.


The redwood trees had such interesting bark


The rain continued well into the next morning, so I waited out the weather reading a book and drinking several cups of tea.  From my past visit, I remembered a small redwood forest just east of Brookings with a short nature trail.  Foggy, rainy days were perfect for photographing these spectacular giants of the forest.  If the rain didn't let up soon, I decided to head there.



Oxalis 

The rain finally did let up, but it was still quite foggy so I decided to go check out the redwoods anyway.  Although redwood trees are common on the Northern California coast, Oregon has only a few small groves.  Apparently this is the northernmost redwood grove with a trail through it.  This short, 1.1 mile trail led me through these soaring giants.  My photos don't do justice as to how huge these trees really were.  They were really quite amazing!  As I traveled along the fern-covered forest, the clouds parted and sun began to stream through the tree canopy.


Harris Beach


After my short hike, I returned to Harris Beach State Park and walked down to check out the beach area.  Although it had a couple of seastacks, it wasn't nearly as pretty as Bandon's beach area.  Feeling kind of tired, I cut my walk short returned to the yurt.  I ended up having a lazy afternoon at the yurt, sitting around and finishing my book.  I didn't know it at the time, but I was in the beginning stages of an illness.  Two days later I came down with my husband's nasty cold, which he'd brought home from the office.


Sunset over Harris Beach


Low energy or not, I did manage to wrest myself away from my comfy yurt to capture one last sunset over the ocean.  Not wanting to walk a long distance, I chose a nearby viewpoint overlooking Harris Beach and set up my tripod.


Almost gone....


This night's sunset was the best of all.  A few low clouds provided some drama and the setting sun radiated a bright golden light that reflected in the ocean waves.  After the sun disappeared, it lingered in the sky for several minutes afterward.


Lingering light


It had been a wonderful four days spent revisiting some of my favorite spots on the southern Oregon coast.  But it was time to head home.  I had a memory card full of images to sort and edit that would keep me busy for many days.  And lots of good memories to tide me over until I could visit again.

Until next time!


Friday, June 14, 2024

Beach Time at Bandon

Bandon, Oregon.  The town with my all time favorite ocean beach.  It had been well over a year since I'd visited this gorgeous piece of heaven.  Time to plan a return trip!


Classic Bandon beach view

Spring is a perfect time to visit the Oregon coast.  Wildflowers are blooming, birds and other aquatic animals are having their babies, and increased daylight means more time outdoors.  I made yurt reservations at Bandon's nearby state park for late April and counted down the days.


Pretty oceanside cliffs


The first thing I always do when pulling into town is head directly for the beach.  Bandon's main beach is stunning, with craggy seastacks, tall cliffs decked in yellow wildflowers, and a wide expanse of sand (at low tide, anyway.)  On this day the beach was littered with thousands of small jellyfish-like creatures.  Called velella velella, these sea animals float on the ocean's surface, propelled by a small sail.  At the mercy of prevailing winds, colonies of velella velella are often subject to mass strandings on ocean beaches.  Such was the case today where I observed tiny blue bodies everywhere.


Lots of velella velella washed up on the beach


I'd seen this phenomenon once before many years ago.  Apparently velella velella mass strandings happen on some sort of cycle.  Mother Nature or not, it was sad to walk along the beach stepping over so many of these lifeless organisms.  


Velella velella close up 


After checking into my cozy yurt, home for the next two nights, I returned to the beach for sunset.  Bandon's beach is known for fabulous sunsets, the ocean sky framed by tall rock pinnacles.


Horse riders on the beach


Of course, I was a bit early.  So I entertained myself by photographing other things.  A group of horse riders trotted along the sand, and I couldn't help capturing a few pics of them.


Almost time for sunset!


Per usual, it was a bit windy on the beach.  Still having a hour to wait, I moved near the cliff, hoping it would break the wind.  It wasn't a bad view at all - I considered just staying put for sunset.



There she goes!


But in the end, I elected to wander a bit.  I walked up and down the beach, checking out the surroundings.  It's always difficult for me to chose the best sunset spot.  What should I include in the foreground?  The cluster of seastacks?  The interesting rock in the sand?  This time I tried to include both.


Post-sunset light

It was a beautiful evening.  The sun sank behind a cloud layer on the horizon, shooting up a few last rays before disappearing for another day.


Coquille River Lighthouse with lovely clouds


The next morning dawned cloudy, so I didn't bother getting up for sunrise.  After a bit of breakfast, I drove over to nearby Coquille River Lighthouse.  Although not in use anymore, the lighthouse is maintained by Oregon State Parks as a tourist attraction.  Sitting on a scenic spot along the Coquille River, I love photographing this landmark and always pay it a visit when in town.
 

Beautiful morning at the lighthouse


The yellow gorse was blooming around the lighthouse, which made for a pretty foreground.  Climbing out onto the surrounding jetty rocks for another perspective, I was delighted to see blue sky peeking through the clouds.  It didn't take long for blue to overtake the grey, leaving lovely puffy clouds in the sky.  A perfect backdrop!


Wildflowers at Devils Kitchen beach


After a quick stop at Bandon Coffee Cafe (highly recommended!) for a latte and second breakfast, I headed over to check out Devils Kitchen Beach, a place I'd never visited on all my prior trips.


Interesting rocks


Pulling into the parking area, I was greeted with a huge spread of wildflowers covering the grassy dunes surrounding this beach.


Sea stack


There were a bunch of interesting sea stacks here too.  Along with more washed-up velella velella bodies.  I spent a happy couple of hours wandering this beach, snapping copious photographs.  


Oystercatcher with it's lunch


Then with low tide approaching, I headed back to Bandon's main beach to check out the animal life.


Two oystercatchers


Walking near Elephant Rock, I spotted two oystercatchers searching the rocks for food.  These birds with their black bodies and bright orange bills are interesting to watch.  I noticed another lady with a long lens also photographing these birds.  We struck up a conversation, and discovered she too was traveling solo and loved to come here to photograph the sights.  The lady was staying in the same campground as I, camping in her van.


Harbor seal enjoying the day


After watching the oystercatchers for awhile, we moved over to where several Harbor seals were perched on the rocks.  No action happening in seal-ville, they were all just chilling.  Nothing much bothered these seals, even when waves from the incoming tide splashed over their bodies.


Harbor seal getting splashed

I spent so much time chatting with my new photographer friend, I nearly missed low tide.  Some of the larger seastacks have amazing tidepools around their bases.  By the time I got out there however, the water was flowing back with many of them already underwater.  I did manage to get one nice shot of an orange seastar, surrounded by velella velella bodies.


Seastar


The incoming tide seemed to be bringing in even more of these little blue sailors.  The beach was littered with their squishy bodies, so much so that I couldn't avoid stepping on them.


Thousands of velella velella on the beach


After dinner at Tony's Crab Shack (another local favorite) I returned to capture sunset number two of my trip.  Parking at Coquille Point, I decided to set up on top of the bluff instead on the beach.  High tide was coinciding with sunset, and I didn't think there would be enough beach left.


Evening light

The sinking sun lit up Bandon Beach with some of the most beautiful light.  It turned the water a bright shade of blue.  While waiting for sunset, I enjoyed watching white, frothy waves crash over the seastacks.


Sunset number two!


It was another nice sunset, cut short by thick clouds near the horizon.  I still enjoyed some nice colors in the sky before packing things up for the evening.


The end of another great day


I got lucky with two dry, partially sunny days during my time in Bandon.  Tomorrow I planned to head to the town of Brookings, the southernmost point on the Oregon coast.  I'll recap the rest of my trip in the next post.  Stay tuned!

Sunday, June 2, 2024

Peak Bloom at Tom McCall Point

Who doesn't love fields of colorful wildflowers?  I'm definitely a fan - and if you've followed my blog for any length of time you know that come April I spend a lot of my time in the eastern Columbia River Gorge, chasing the annual wildflower bloom.


Wildflower bonanza!

In early April, the eastern reaches of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area begin erupting into acres of brilliant blooms.  The predominate wildflower is the Arrowleaf balsamroot, whose cheery blossoms look like small sunflowers.  These prolific flowers seem to be everywhere, carpeting slopes and meadows yellow.  Thanks to social media, throngs of people now flock to the Gorge to experience this yearly event. 


Lovely flower field

By late April I'd already visited many of the well-known spring Gorge wildflower spots - Memaloose Hills, Rowena Plateau, the Dalles Mountain Ranch, and even hiked the Lyle Cherry Orchard Trail.  But last year I'd missed my annual trek up Tom McCall Point.  Rising 1,722 feet over the Oregon side of the Columbia River, it's slopes come alive with colorful blooms in the spring.  Sweeping views of the river and adjacent foothills can be seen from the summit.  One of the best places (in my opinion) for scenery and wildflowers, I wasn't going to let another year creep by.  


This colorful meadow made me whoop with joy

Now that I'm retired, I try to avoid hiking popular trails on the weekends.  However, the weather and my schedule dictated that if I was going to get up Tom McCall Point in time to experience this year's peak bloom I had to go the last Saturday of April.  It was now or never!


From on top I could see the rain clouds approaching

So in an effort to avoid some of the Saturday crowd, I rose early and hit the trail by 7 am.  From the parking area, I first meandered through a flower-filled meadow, bright with technicolor blooms.  It wasn't long before I was stopped in my tracks with camera out.  A young man, the only other hiker here at this hour, passed me by and agreed it was hard to make much forward progress with so many lovely wildflowers in bloom (we'd end up leapfrogging each other the entire way).


Sensational Gorge views

I did finally tear myself away from the meadow and begin to climb.  Balsamroot blooms lined the trail practically every step of the way.  I loved how the Columbia River slowly revealed itself the higher I ascended.  There was no shortage of spectacular scenery here!


Lupine blooms


Despite the many, many photo stops I did manage to make forward progress.  About 2/3 of the way to the summit, I passed by a sharp bend in the trail.  Off to the side was a huge mass of color.  I recognized three types of wildflowers here - yellow balsamroot, purple lupine, and orange Indian paintbrush.  This meadow was so stunning, I couldn't help but whoop for joy.  And I'd hit peak bloom!


Lots of orange Indian Paintbrush joined the flower show

Another reason for my early start - rain was forecast to begin by afternoon.  The wind was already blowing quite strongly, making close-up flower photography nearly impossible.  The sky, partly cloudy when I had first arrived this morning, quickly became overcast.  Trudging uphill, nearly to the top, I noticed dark, threatening clouds to the west, hanging over the Columbia River.  The predicted rain was on its way! 


Gnarled oak trees brightened by wildflowers

I was greeted at the summit by cold gusts.  After donning jacket and knit hat, I snapped a few wide-angle scenery images and then decided to head back down out of the wind.  Besides, the rain clouds looked like they were coming fast.


Flower-lined trail

The return trip didn't take quite as long, but I still stopped at all the extra lovely spots again and snapped more images.  Things always look different from the opposite direction, and sometimes the shots I like best are from a different perspective.  (And yes, I often get duplicate photos from both directions of travel!)


A big happy bunch of wildflowers

The overcast skies gave even light and I thought it really made the colors pop.  I got so many images I really liked (it was hard to chose a few for this blog post!)


Yellow everywhere!

The abundance of so many yellow flowers was astounding.  I think it was one of the largest blooms I'd seen here recently.  Certainly won the prize for best Gorge wildflower display this year!  It made my heart sing to be walking amongst so much beauty.


Some purple larkspur blooms in the mix

My downhill trip was much different from the ascent.  I'd been passed by a handful of other people on the way up but coming down, I was constantly stepping aside for uphill hikers.  At one point I could see quite a ways down the trail and the switchbacks were lined with people, all heading to the summit.  It was practically a conga-line of hikers!  Now I was doubly happy for the early morning start.


Columbia River, looking east towards Washington

When I finally reached my car, the parking area was overflowing with vehicles lining both the entrance road and intersecting highway.  Time to get outta dodge!  I stopped at the nearby town of Mosier for a latte and bagel, and by the time I'd finished this second breakfast, raindrops were beginning to dot the windshield.  Good timing on my part.


The happy photographer


Another wonderful spring morning spent amongst the wildflowers of the Columbia River Gorge.  I hope you've enjoyed reading this recap as much as I did capturing it in photographs.