Those of you that have followed my blog for awhile know that I love National Parks and try to visit as many as possible. My neighboring state of Washington happens to have three. Two of the parks I've been to multiple times but the third has always eluded me. Although I'd planned trips there for the past two years, something always came up (usually wildfires) and forced me to cancel. But this summer I was determined that 2025 was going to be my year - North Cascades National Park or bust!
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| Fantastic mountain views along highway 20 |
North Cascades NP isn't an easy place to reach. Located in Central Washington's far northern Cascade Mountains, it's only 5 miles from the Canadian border. It's a three hour drive from Seattle, and a whopping 7 hour commute from where I live in Portland. At more than 500,000 acres, it's the largest of Washington's three National Parks. It's also very spread out - consisting of a northern and southern section, split by the Skagit River. North Cascades NP has the distinction of being one of the least visited of the US National Parks, probably due to the remoteness of its location.
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| Rainy Lake |
The big attraction at North Cascades NP is the plethora of incredible hiking trails. Many paths lead high into the mountains to beautiful wildflower meadows, craggy mountain views, lovely alpine lakes, and dazzling fall colors. One of the most popular hikes is the Heather-Maple Pass Loop. For years I'd seen photographs and read descriptions posted online about this stunning trail. It was number one on my hiking list, if and when I ever visited.
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| The famous trail begins! |
The planets finally aligned this year, and I picked a few days in the last week of August for my visit. I made reservations in the town of Winthrop, east of the mountains, and crossed my fingers that no wildfires would start between now and then.
Fast forward to my departure date - a heat wave had struck the Pacific NW, and temps were predicted to soar into the 100's on the east side of the Washington Cascades. I'm a huge wimp when it comes to hiking in hot weather, and considered cancelling my trip for a third year in a row. But then I decided, enough with the excuses! If I didn't go now, when would I get there? So I sucked it up, and endured the 7 hour drive in temps that climbed to 104 degrees at one point.
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| After about a mile of climbing, I started to see mountains |
It was a toasty 100 degrees when I pulled into my motel at Winthrop, Washington. After sitting in my car all day, I had to get out and stretch my legs despite the heat. From my motel it was about a mile to the town's main drag. Winthrop was a cute, western-themed hamlet, but definitely touristy! Although the place had many restaurants, I was surprised to find only a hamburger joint open on a Monday night in late August. I had a mediocre hamburger for dinner, and then headed back to my air-conditioned room for an early bedtime. In hopes of beating the heat, I planned an early wake-up call the following morning.
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| My first view of Lake Ann |
The sun was just beginning to peek over the mountaintops as I left my motel in Winthrop the next morning. My day's destination - Rainy Pass, the trailhead for the Heather-Maple Pass Loop. Following US Hwy 20, it was about a 45-mile drive. At first the road stayed relatively flat, and meandered through lovely meadows of the Methow Valley. But then after 20-some miles, the highway began to climb abruptly. Tall jagged peaks lined the road, some illuminated pink by morning sunlight. The scene was so beautiful I just had to take advantage of a nearby roadside pullout for some photographs. After navigating a gnarly nearly 360-degree switchback, I drove by Washington Pass and the road mellowed out a bit. Rainy Pass came into view, and I followed a bumpy gravel road to the parking area.
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| Narrow trail perched on the edge |
Although it was barely 7 am, I found the large parking area already 2/3 full. While putting on my boots, I struck up a conversation with the lady parked next to me. Having hiked Heather-Maple Pass several times, she recommended I navigate the loop in a clockwise direction. Evidentially I'd get the steep climbing out of the way first and the descent would be more gradual. Knowing next to nothing about this trail, I took her advice to heart and started my journey near the paved path at the parking lot's southern end, the start of the clockwise loop.
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| Rainy Lake is wayyy down there! |
Following this paved trail for a half mile took me to a junction. The left fork took hikers uphill to the Heather-Maple loop, while the right fork headed to Rainy Lake. The lady to the trailhead had recommended a visit to this lake, so I again took her advice and headed right.
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| Bright red mountain ash berries |
What a worthwhile detour! This little alpine lake was a gem, nestled in a bowl surrounded by mountain peaks. It's calm waters reflected nearby craggy cliffs and forests, while pebbly clouds filled the sky. The only issue was early morning light cast Rainy Lake in shadows, making photography difficult. But aside from that, I was happy I'd traveled the extra distance.
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| I could see Hwy 20 far, far below |
Returning to the paved path, I quickly covered the half mile back to the Heather-Maple junction once again. This time, I took the left fork and quickly began climbing. I switchbacked through thick forests of subalpine fir and spruce, occasionally getting a glimpse of the surrounding mountains through gaps in the trees.
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| Fall colors just getting started |
At a talus slope caused by a long-ago avalanche, I heard the "meep" of a pika, and paused to see if I could spot the little creature. While I was searching the slopes, a nice couple caught up to me. We chatted and I found out they were from Ohio, and also National Park junkies like me. After comparing notes on which parks we'd visited, the couple went on their way. I lingered a few minutes longer, taking in the panoramic mountain views from the avalanche chute's clearing.
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| Lush, green mountain meadow |
Beyond the talus slope were more switchbacks, and more steep grades. The temperature was starting to rise, and sweat streamed down my body. Not far up the trail, I again ran into the Ohio couple, taking a break and staring at the view down below. It was a nice glimpse of Rainy Lake, but the sun was shining in the wrong direction for photographs.
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| Jagged peaks |
For the next half mile, the switchbacks continued steeply up the mountainside. I kept running into my new Ohio friends taking rest breaks, and we leapfrogged each other. Finally, the terrain flattened out a bit, and they surged ahead.
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| Long switchback to Maple Pass |
Climbing higher, the forest started to dwindle, and mountain views became more constant. And boy were there mountains! It was a 360 degree wall of peaks in every direction, as far as my eye could see. The mountains were tall and spiky, with rough rocky sides. I thought they were very similar to the Swiss Alps.
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| Lake Ann surrounded by mountains |
The trail continued atop a high ledge, perched precariously on the side of a cliff. I could see Rainy Lake, far, far below. I followed this path into a lovely, green alpine meadow. Views were spectacular here. I could see the shiny ribbon of highway 20 winding between tall peaks, very far away. It being late August, I'd missed peak wildflower season. However, some of the foliage here was already beginning its fall color transition, and I glimpsed a bit of rusty, reddish hues along the trail.
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| Prominent viewpoint |
Now above treeline, the sun beat mercilessly upon my body. Knowing it would be a hot hike, I'd brought a full bladder of water, and made sure to drink frequently. Although this hike was only 2200 feet of total elevation gain, the scorching heat made it seem much more difficult.
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| Looking back at the trail switchbacks |
Approaching an open alpine meadow, the trail switchbacked in large zig-zags up its barren slope. I noticed lots of people standing at the top of this incline. A hiker passing by told me that was Maple Pass. I was almost there!
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| The views atop Maple Pass were nothing short of incredible |
This final climb took a bit of time. By now it was noon, and after ascending all morning, I was hot and tired. A wide ridge about halfway up gave great views of another alpine lake. My map identified it as Lake Ann. The scenery was so outstanding, several people were stopping here and taking photos. It was a great place for "I was here" and "top of the world" pictures. I offered to take photos for a young couple and they returned the favor.
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| The rocky top of Maple Pass |
Then it was back to the uphill slog. The top so close now, I just put my head down and kept moving. And finally the trail flattened out and I found myself atop Maple Pass. Woo-hoo! And who did I meet upon my arrival? My Ohio friends, who were just getting ready to head back down.
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| Tired and sweaty, but happy |
At 6,650 feet, Maple Pass formed the border with North Cascades NP. I'd officially been on National Forest land all the way up to this point. The National Park stretched to the west of Maple Pass. So I'd be skirting the NP boundary on my return trip back down. There was an iconic wooden sign at Maple Pass denoting the park boundary, but I'd learned it had fallen into disrepair and had to be taken down. So there was no official sign here anymore.
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| The loop continuation had amazing mountain views |
Famished, I found a place to sit amongst the rocky summit and pulled out my lunch. It was nice to have a break, and what a beautiful view! A sea of jagged, tall peaks stretched in every direction. The mountains were massive and there were so many! I was lucky to have a clear, sunny day to enjoy the panorama. But I discovered sitting in this open summit area was awfully hot. The sun beat down upon my head and I could feel the heat radiating off nearby rocks and soil. Too hot for my liking, it was time to return to the shady treeline. I cut my lunch break short, packed up, and started my descent.
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| So many mountains! |
The trip back to the trailhead was just as stunning. To begin, I wandered along a wide-open ridge, strewn with rocks. The panoramic mountain views were absolutely breathtaking. The trail led me along the base of several steep, gray granite peaks.
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| A few picturesque tall peaks |
After traversing this ridge for about a half mile, my path began to gently descend towards a green slope. Trees began to appear once again. I passed many sweaty people huffing and puffing uphill in the opposite direction. They all looked so miserable in the afternoon heat. I was grateful I'd started my hike early and took advantage of cooler temperatures for my climb.
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| Heading downhill through a lovely meadow |
I traversed across a steep slope with a lovely, green alpine meadow. Up ahead I saw a group of hikers stopped taking photographs of something downslope. What were they looking at? When I reached the same area, I immediately understood why. Below was a spectacular view of Lake Ann, ringed by tree-clad mountains. This was the iconic view I'd seen posted on many, many trip reports from the Heather-Maple Pass trail.
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| Fabulous Lake Ann views |
This stunning scene kept my camera busy for quite awhile! The green slopes had a few straggler wildflowers still in bloom. And I loved the turquoise waters of Lake Ann.
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| Lake Ann and mountain ash |
Finally, I tore myself away and kept descending. The forest returned, as did lots of mountain ash bushes, their berries a bright red.
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| The downhill trail continued to impress |
At one sharp bend in the trail, I was treated to a bit of fall color, leaves just starting to turn on a few bushes.
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| More fall colors |
The steep slopes were full of more mountain ash. I just loved their colorful berries!
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| Prolific mountain ash |
I came to a trail junction where a group of young female backpackers had gathered. These women were heading towards distant Wing Lake and decided to take a break. From a nearby sign I learned that this junction was Heather Pass. It was so forested and didn't appear to be a high point, so I wasn't really sure what made it a mountain pass.
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| Nice views of Lake Ann as I descended |
From Heather Pass, the trail marched downward along a rocky ledge. Great views of Lake Ann accompanied my descent, interrupted by frequent photo stops.
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| Mountain reflections in Lake Ann |
At a large talus slope, I noticed the nearby mountains reflecting off Lake Ann's waters.
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| Narrow, rocky trail |
After traveling along with Lake Ann by my side for about half a mile, the trail turned away and I bid this lovely alpine lake a fond farewell. Further downhill, a side trail took hikers to its shores. However, I was tired and ready to be done, so decided to forego this detour. Maybe another time!
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| Final glimpse of Lake Ann |
Now I was back into the thick forest again. On this side of the loop, however, the tree gaps were more frequent, and I was treated many mountain views.
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| Mountain peek-a-boo |
I passed through another large talus slope framed by a green meadow. Again, I heard the familiar "meep" of pikas. This time I was lucky and spotted one sunning himself on the rocks. Unfortunately I didn't bring my big zoom lens, so had to make do with my landscape lens. Can you spot the little guy in the image below?
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| Passed a talus slope full of pikas |
This large mountain meadow was quite stunning. There was an abundance of green vegetation, despite it being late August. A few pointy mountains flanked the forest edge.
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| One last clearing with mountain views |
From the large meadow, my path continued down at a steep grade. Surrounded by trees, there were no more mountain views. I put my head down and covered the final mile quickly. It was wonderful to see my car in the parking area, and even nicer to shed my hot hiking boots. I guzzled down a cold water bottle stashed in my car. I'd completed the Heather-Maple Pass loop, a hike I'd wanted to do for many years! My total milage came to 8.8 miles with 2200 feet elevation gain. However, the day's heat had made this hike seem much tougher.
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| Green meadow with lots of mountain ash bushes |
After completing this trek, I hopped in my car and drove 40 miles westward down Highway 20 to the North Cascade National Park visitor center. Although it was in the opposite direction of where I was staying in Winthrop, I decided this was my only chance to make an "official" visit to this park. An official visit meant I picked up a park map and purchased a pin. (I collect both pins and maps from each National Park I've been to)
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| Diablo Lake |
On the way to the visitor center, I drove by Diablo Lake. Due to glacial silt, this lake was a unique shade of blue-gray. Part of North Cascades NP, it was the most visited portion of the park. I made one stop at a large viewpoint and walked over to snap a few pictures before continuing on.
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| The official park sign - it was a long drive to get here! |
After stopping at the visitor center, I had one more thing to make my National Park visit official - a photo of the park sign. The park sign was located another 14 miles further down Highway 20. Hot and tired from my hike, and facing a long drive back over the mountain to Winthrop, I almost didn't travel the extra miles. But a little voice inside of me said I'd regret being so close and not getting my park sign photo. So away I went down the road. Funny thing, when I arrived at the park sign, who should be there but the same Ohio couple I'd met on the Heather-Maple trail!
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| Top of the world! |
North Cascades NP and the Heather-Maple Pass trail were all I'd hoped for and more! I was totally blown away by the spectacular scenery - so worth the hot trek and long drive from home. I had two more short hikes planned for the following day. I'll recap those in my next post, so I hope you'll come back for more!
