(A multi-part recap of my mid-April to early May Italy trip.)
Italy tour over, most of our tour-mates now departed, it was just Kim and I for the next two days in Rome. But that was fine with us - we'd purposely planned these extra days to see more of the Eternal City. To fill our time we'd scheduled visits to some of Rome's most iconic sights. And on day nineteen of my trip, we had an early morning date to tour the inside of the Colosseum. An item firmly on Kim's bucket list, we both couldn't wait to see more of this magnificent structure.
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| We're inside the Colosseum! |
Sadly, our good weather karma had run out. After eighteen days enjoying Italy's beautiful, sunny skies, we awoke that morning to pouring rain. But we'd traveled all the way here, and already paid for our Colosseum tour, so the show must go on! Kim and donned raincoats, grabbed umbrellas from the hotel's front desk, and instead of walking to the Colosseum, decided to hail a cab.
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| The line to get inside was long! |
This was our first experience using a taxi in Rome, and it did not go well. Our hotel ordered the cab and told us what company name to expect. Waiting outside under the hotel awning, Kim and I recognized the car when it pulled up. Since it was still raining heavily, we quickly piled in and watched as our driver hurtled his way through Rome's morning traffic. Arriving at the Colosseum about 15 minutes later, our cabbie informed us payment was in cash only. Although the meter said 11.90 euros, he claimed we owed him 13 euros instead. Since we'd assumed all taxis accepted credit cards, Kim and I had to quickly scramble to come up with enough cash to pay the guy. Handing the man 15 euros, he also informed us he couldn't give change. At this point, we both just wanted out of the cab, so Kim and I let the man keep our money - it wasn't worth arguing about. Lesson learned. For future cab rides in Rome, we asked beforehand if the driver accepted credit cards, and watched the meter like a hawk.
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| Our guide Patrick leading us to the Colosseum |
Now it was time to locate our tour group. The particular company we chose had come highly recommended, so I'd booked a interior Colosseum tour with them. After a bit of wandering, we found the meet-up point outside the metro station, and were introduced to Patrick, our guide for the morning. Kim and I were joined by another couple from somewhere in the Midwest (I've now forgotten exactly what state they were from.) Patrick led us across the street and into a huge line. I'd picked a "first entry" tour, but apparently a lot of other groups had also chose this option.
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| My first glimpse inside |
One lucky thing about that morning - shortly after meeting up with Patrick, the rain stopped and held off for the rest of the day. Perfetto!
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| We definitely weren't alone! |
After shuffling through a huge line, getting our belongings x-rayed, and showing our passports to the staff, we were inside! Patrick led our little group down a dark hallway on the street level. He then turned and started up a steep stairway. We were surrounded by hordes of people on all sides, everyone intent on seeing the inside of this great world wonder.
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| Ancient pillars |
The first few minutes of our tour consisted of us following Patrick down more hallways. Pockmarked stone arches lined our way, the holes due to pillaging of the marble and iron anchors holding this massive structure together. Patrick was a fountain of knowledge, launching right into the Colosseum's history.
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| Walking to the Colosseum floor |
Then Patrick led our group towards an opening, and gestured us to follow. The corridor gave way to daylight, and at the end we could see the Colosseum's ruined walls.
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| My first view of the Colosseum interior - a definite wow moment! |
And then - we entered the floor of the Colosseum! And oh what a magnificent sight it was! This entire structure spread out in a 360 degree vantage before me. The walls rose up - a series of arches, openings, and tumble-down seating areas. I could almost hear the crowd's roar and clash of the gladiators. Walking around the outside was one thing, but actually standing on the Colosseum's ground level gave me a better sense of this ancient arena's enormity.
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| Ruins of the seating area |
The largest ancient amphitheater ever built and currently the largest standing amphitheater in the world, the Colosseum was constructed between 72 and 80 AD. This amazing structure was an engineering marvel, its travertine, concrete, and volcanic tuff building blocks set in arches without mortar. (Later these stones were reinforced with iron clamps.) The Colosseum's exterior was clad in marble, and it originally featured a retractable awning over the top to shield spectators from sun and rain. Lavishly decorated with statues, painted hallways and marble columns, it was a sight to behold.
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| Box seating area with some remaining marble |
Holding an estimated 50,000 to 80,000 spectators, the Colosseum was used to host gladiatorial contests, wild animal hunts, executions, re-enactments of famous battles, dramas based on Roman mythology, and supposedly a few mock sea battles. Gladiator fights were held until the year 399 and animal hunts continued until around 523. Thanks to modern movies, most people associate the Colosseum with gladiator battles or Romans feeding Christians to the lions.
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| People who sat there had personalized seats |
The Colosseum's seating was designed as a tiered system, which has been widely copied in modern stadiums today. The highest members of Roman society occupied the best seats at ground level, the next levels were for wealthy citizens, and the poor crowded into the upper (nosebleed) seats. To enable the arena's spectators to evacuate quickly, eighty arched entrances were provided at ground level. Each entry and exit were numbered, as was each staircase. Spectators were assigned specific sections and rows (inscribed on a pottery shard.) Special corridors called vomitoria dispersed people into the correct seating area, and upon conclusion of the event, directed their exit. Because of the large number of these specific passageways, the Colosseum could be cleared in a matter of minutes. The term vomitoria was derived from a Latin word meaning rapid discharge. This is where the English word "vomit" came from.
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| A view into the underground holding area |
Now on the Colosseum floor, Kim and I just gaped at the surrounding walls and ruined seating areas. Patrick pointed out a nearby tiered bench that still had a bit of marble affixed to the steps. The marble remnants had words chiseled into them, probably naming the important officials that they had been reserved for.
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| Here is where the prisoners and animals were held |
Although Kim and I were standing on the Colosseum's original ground floor level, we could tell there was a basement underneath. The lower level had been excavated to reveal a series of cells and passageways. Patrick explained this subterranean network of tunnels and cages had been used to hold animals, gladiators, and prisoners before the contests began. The combatants were delivered to the Colosseum floor via large hinged trapdoors operated by pulleys. A replica of one of those doors had been reconstructed at one side of the viewing platform.
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| Different layers of material |
It was quite a feeling to be standing on the floor of this ancient arena. I tried to imagine what it must've been like when the place was packed with spectators watching gladiators battle.
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| Two happy friends! |
Kim and I noticed the disheveled state of the Colosseum's interior. Thousands of years of weather, earthquakes, fires, and scavengers had reduced this once grand amphitheater into shambles. By the sixth century the place no longer hosted events and began falling into disrepair. Throughout the following years the Colosseum was used as a chapel, cemetery, housing, and a castle. Its iron pegs, marble facade, and beautiful artwork were plundered, with some of the building materials reused for other structures. Sediment from nearby river flooding buried its lower levels. During the 18th century, the Colosseum began to be excavated and repaired. Today it is one of Rome's most popular tourist attractions. Each Good Friday the Pope now leads a Stations of the Cross procession that begins here.
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| Trapdoor - This was how the combatants entered the arena |
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| Brick details |
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| A view into the underground |
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| Another view of the underground labyrinth |
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| A large cross had been placed on one side |
After spending an ample amount of time on the Colosseum floor, Patrick led our small group to the upper levels. By now the place was crammed with people, necessitating a bit of navigating through the crowds.
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| Views through the arches |
On our way to the higher tiers, we passed by lots of interesting sights. A lone cross had been placed on one side of the Colosseum, and it was always surrounded by lots of people. I marveled at the sight of a few stone archways, still standing even after being robbed of their reinforcing iron rods. Several blocked off stairways led to upper seating areas, a few still bearing what appeared to be their original marble treads.
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| Ancient marble steps |
I also noticed that each Colosseum level appeared to be constructed of different materials. The lowest levels looked like they were made of a concrete-like substance, while subsequent upper levels were built of stacked stone blocks. And the very upper tiers consisted of bricks and small stones cemented together.
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| Brick details |
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| Sweeping views from near the top of the Colosseum |
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| Crowds of people on the other side |
Fighting crowds, our small tour group climbed higher in the Colosseum. We passed by several open arches, and I couldn't resist snapping a few photos of the landscape outside.
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| Looking out another arched window |
And then finally we arrived at a high vantage point overlooking the entire Colosseum. What a view it was! The arena spread out before me in a wide oval. I could see the underground passages, the small area at floor level where we'd stood just minutes earlier, and the rows of seating tiers. Even in its ruined state, this colossal amphitheater was so impressive. I tried to imagine how grand the place must've looked in its heyday.
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| What a place! |
Luckily, Patrick could help us envision this. He'd packed along a binder with renderings of what archeologists thought this massive arena had looked like. After showing our group several drawings I came away with an even better understanding of just how impressive the Colosseum had been. And to think this had all been built in roughly 70 to 80 AD - so long ago! How in the world did these ancient Romans manage to construct such an immense structure? How many slaves had it taken? (And how many had died in the process?)
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| Wide-angle view from on high |
After soaking in the views atop the highest point in the Colosseum that tours were allowed to access, Patrick led us back down, past more open archways. He let us peer out of one, which gave a nice view of the Arch of Constantine and nearby Palatine Hill.
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| View towards Palatine Hill |
As our group wound back down towards the Colosseum exit, I stopped as often as I could to snap photos of the small details along the corridors.
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| Tiny details |
Such as this tiny cross and marble plaque affixed to one of the stone walls. I have no idea if it was as old as the original Colosseum or a recent addition, or who it was commemorating.
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| I really wondered what this inscription said |
This huge stone block also caught my eye. It was inscribed with many words, and I wondered what exactly it said. Was it a relic of the gladiator era?
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| Marble floor remnants |
Although most of the marble that had adorned this arena had long since been plundered, I did notice small remnants here and there. One of the floors we passed by still had a few marble panels embedded into the concrete. It was very cool to think I was walking on the same surface that ancient Roman spectators had trod upon so long ago.
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| A cross carved into the stone |
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| Crumbling walls |
Patrick ended our Colosseum tour strolling past more crumbling brick walls and broken marble sculptures on our way to the exit. A row of tall arched walls stood as sentinels to an earlier time when Roman statesmen and Vestal Virgins were entertained by gruesome battles between man and beast.
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| I tried to imagine what this place must've looked like |
Seeing the Colosseum's interior had been absolutely amazing! To get a glimpse into this historic structure and experience its ancient history had been a definite highlight. And to think our tour's main guide had pooh-poohed visiting the Colosseum's interior, telling us it wasn't worth it. Good thing I didn't listen to her advice!
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| Next a tour of Palatine Hill |
However, today's tour wasn't over yet. I didn't realize it at the time of booking, but discovered I'd also included a guided tour of the Roman Forum with our Colosseum ticket. The couple who'd been with us for the Colosseum inside tour didn't have this extra, so we bid them farewell at the Forum entrance. Now it was just Kim and I with our own private guide!
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| Blooming yellow roses |
Since we'd just visited the Forum on the previous day, Patrick bypassed this area and instead took Kim and I up to the adjacent Palatine Hill. One of the famed seven hills of Rome, this area was considered to be one of the most ancient parts of the city.
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| An enormous ancient palace once stood here |
Over the years, Romans had built elaborate imperial palaces on this hill. The ruins of several had been uncovered by archeologists, and were now open to visitors.
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| A surviving sculpture |
According to Patrick, Augustus had been the first emperor to build his palace atop Palatine Hill. His grandiose home had been erected in 27 BC, coinciding with the start of the Roman Empire. After Augustus, other emperors followed suit with Tiberius and Domitian also erecting opulent structures between 14 and 96 AD. Patrick said that ruins from all three of these palaces could be found today on Palatine Hill.
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| A bathroom area of the palace |
Crumbling brick walls were all that remained of the stately structures that once adorned Palatine Hill. Patrick pointed out the foundations of many. He also led Kim and I to a high point that overlooked an large area that once was the bathroom of a palace. It was huge!
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| Interesting surviving details |
The marble floors of one palace bathroom were still intact. A small area of patterned colored marble had been roped off to preserve the fragile stonework.
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| Marble bathroom floor |
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| This floor was particularly decorative |
The sheer size of some of these palace ruins were simply mind-boggling! I couldn't imagine living in such a large home. It must've taken an army of servants (aka slaves) to keep the place running. But if you're a Roman emperor, I'm sure money is no object.
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| Palace foundations and umbrella pine trees |
Patrick took us by ruin after ruin, showing us artist renderings from his binder depicting what these enormous emperor dwellings are thought to have looked like. It was all very fascinating to see so many ruins preserved. And there were still buildings being discovered. Several areas were closed to the public due to current archaeological digs.
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| A large brick ruin |
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| Judging by the size of the ruins, this palace was immense |
We got a fantastic personal tour of the entire Palatine Hill area. After spending a large amount of time strolling through all the palace brick walls and foundations, Patrick led us through a beautiful garden area. It being spring, many plants and flowers were beginning to bloom. I loved the tall umbrella pine trees, unique to Rome, that lined the top of the hill.
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| At the very top of the hill was an overlook with fantastic views |
From the garden Patrick took us to one final impressive vantage point. While touring the Forum yesterday, I'd noticed crowds of people gathered atop a large brick wall towering above the Forum's valley. This was the viewpoint where Kim and I now stood.
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| The Temple of Romulus |
Oh my were the views amazing! From this high perch I could see westward to Capitoline Hill, where the mayoral palace and the Victor Emmanuel Monument stood. I could look down into the Forum, and immediately recognized several of the sights I'd visited yesterday.
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| The Basilica of Constantine |
Looking to the east, the Basilica of Constantine looked even larger than when I'd stood underneath its arches the previous day. Seeing its entire ruins from afar really impressed upon me what an immense structure it was.
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| Looking down inside the Roman Forum |
This high perch gave a wonderful overview of the Forum. And it was pretty great for photos too!
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| Also nice views of the Colosseum |
I also had a great look back at the Colosseum and the Arch of Titus.
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| View towards Capitoline Hill |
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| Surviving marble fountain |
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| Another bird's eye Forum view |
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| Heading into the Forum |
After allowing ample time to soak in all these incredible views Patrick once again led Kim and I downhill, through more palace ruins, until arriving at the Forum valley floor.
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| Our tour concluded with a quick walk through the Forum |
From here, we walked by the Roman ruins that Kim and I had visited on yesterday's tour. Of course the Forum was such an amazing place I had no trouble seeing everything for a second time.
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| A large stone sign pieced back together |
Near one of the Forum's entrances, Patrick declared our tour was now over. He said our ticket was good for staying inside the entire day, if we so chose. The man had done such an amazing job - for over three hours, he'd taken us through two of Rome's most famous attractions and provided a plethora of information about each one. The illustrations he'd provided had given Kim and I a better understanding of what these ruins had looked like during ancient Roman times. The man had gone above and beyond to show us everything on the Palatine Hill area, which was a great compliment to yesterday's Forum tour. We thanked Patrick profusely, Kim slipped him a generous tip, and I promised to give a good review on the tour company's app (which I did!)
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| Huge midday crowds trying to get inside the Colosseum |
Having seen enough of the Forum by now, Kim and I opted to leave and find some lunch. After crossing the busy street in front of the Colosseum, we stopped a took a few final photos of the area. I couldn't believe the huge crowd of people lined up to get inside the Colosseum now! It looked like absolute chaos. Made me happy I'd booked the first tour of the morning.
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| Interesting striped church near my hotel |
Poor Kim was still suffering from the nasty cold I'd given her, so on our way back to the hotel, we stopped at a pharmacy in hopes of purchasing some decongestant. Then after a ho-hum sandwich at a nearby restaurant, we continued our trek to the hotel. It was a long walk, but the rain had let up, and after this morning's taxi scam, we weren't quite ready to ride in another cab.
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| Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, where Pope Francis is buried |
Perusing the guidebook and map of Rome, I learned that Pope Francis was buried in a basilica fairly close to our hotel. Having a good chunk of the afternoon to fill, Kim and I decided to try and find it. Navigating with Google maps, we made our way through the streets, dodging traffic and pedestrians until arriving at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore.
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| More interesting sculptures - art is everywhere! |
Unfortunately for me, the basilica did not allow photography inside, so all I can show is an image of the outer facade. Like all Italian churches, inside the basilica was gorgeous, filled with many breathtaking works of art. We located Pope Francis' grave, and it was very simple and plain, just like how Francis had lived his life.
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| A long staircase.... |
Before my trip, I learned of a local tradition that happened weekly at St. Peter's Square. When he was in Rome, Pope Leo held a Wednesday audience consisting of readings and a short address to the crowd. Knowing Kim and I planned to be in Rome on a Wednesday, months ago I had requested tickets from the Bishops' Office for United States Visitors to the Vatican. Tomorrow happened to be Wednesday, and I received word via email that the pope was in town and the Wednesday audience was on. So after visiting the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, Kim and I headed to the local bishops' office to collect our tickets.
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| Art on the streetcorners |
The Bishops' Office for United States Visitors was located near the Trevi Fountain. So with the help of Google, Kim and I set off yet again through the busy streets of Rome. We located the bishops' office with no problems. There were so many young men in collars here, it appeared to be a seminary. Upon receiving our tickets, a fresh-faced young priest gave us all a brief orientation on what to expect at tomorrow's Wednesday Audience. Afterwards, while chatting with one seminarian I mentioned my son was a priest in Montana. The young man happily told me he was friends with some of the seminarians from my son's diocese who were studying here in Rome. Small world!
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| Beautiful sculptures could be found everywhere in Rome |
On the way back to our hotel, we passed so many lovely sculptures - I even found four of them on each corner of one intersection! Rome was so full of art - it was everywhere you looked.
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| My ticket to the pope's Wednesday audience! |
It was another early bedtime that evening. Tomorrow was our final day in Rome and Kim and I had big plans. Not only would we attend the pope's Wednesday audience, we had booked an afternoon tour of the most important Catholic buildings in the world - the Vatican Museum, the Sistine Chapel, and Saint Peter's Basilica.
Coming in my next post - my last day in Italy just happened to be the best day of them all!
