Fall Magic at MRNP

For the past few years autumn has been getting shortchanged on my blog.  I always seem to lag behind on summer hiking recaps and by the time January 1st rolls around, I end up skipping over most of fall to start again with winter activities.  

But not this year!  No, for 2020 I've resolved to showcase some of the fall treks I've taken.  So for this post I'm fast-forwarding ahead to the previous weekend where I took in some amazing autumn color at Mt Rainier National Park.

 

And I thought wildflower season was stunning.....

Last September, I'd tried to visit MRNP for the fall color show, only to be foiled by a freak early season snowstorm.  All the trails around Paradise were covered by a few inches of the white stuff.  No way to see any autumn hues through that.....

Myrtle Falls

 

Which gave me even more reason to make a return trip in early October 2020.  After all that's gone wrong in this year, something finally worked in my favor.  The forecast aligned to give me a beautiful sunny weekend - for all three days!

Fat marmot

So hubby and I packed up the truck early last Friday morning and made the 3 1/2 hour drive north.  We lucked out again - securing a campsite as the previous occupant was leaving.  After unpacking and erecting our tent it was time to head up to Paradise, this year snow-free, to see that lovely autumn scenery I'd missed.

Technicolor slopes

 

Although the leaves weren't turning much at the lower elevations of the park, driving the road up to Paradise, things changed in a hurry.  Rounding the final corner to the parking lot, I gasped in joy - the meadows directly below Mt Rainier were a quilt of autumn hues.

The mountain herself adorned with painted foothills

 

Hubby hadn't visited MRNP since the 90's so I was more than happy to show him my favorite places.  We started out on the Skyline trail, hiking counter-clockwise in hopes of spotting wildlife.

Green stream crossing

 

So off we went, hubby walking ahead, me lagging behind photographing the endless parade of colorful slopes and fantastic Mt Rainier views.  At Myrtle Falls, we spotted our first marmot, a fat fellow perched on the slopes directly above the trail.

Skyline Trail high point

 

Then it was a slow uphill climb through increasingly vibrant meadows (a slow climb due to many photo subjects, or so I told myself).  

Down to Panorama Point

 

After a lot of climbing and photo-taking, hubby and I arrived Skyline Trail's high point, a rocky plain with an amazing in-your-face view of Rainier.  Perfect place for a lunch break.

Panorama Point from the trail

Then it was down to Panorama Point for a few quick photos.  The main draw for me here isn't the views but the plethora of friendly chipmunks and ground squirrels that hover nearby hoping for hiker handouts.

Friendly chipmunk

 

 

Having climbed to the highest points, it was now time to descend.  The Skyline Trail wound steeply downhill, passing more fantastic red and gold leaves and mountain vantages.  Although the sky became hazy with smoke from distant California wildfires, the views were still mighty fine.

Fiery red huckleberry leaves

Afternoon light backlit some of the huckleberry leaves to fiery red hues.

Grand mountain view

By now there was a constant stream of uphill hikers, forcing hubby and I to don our masks frequently to pass them all.

Marmot relaxing in the shade

Halfway down we came upon a very friendly marmot, trying to coax goodies from a family with children.  The family didn't give in to the marmot's demands, so it finally sauntered off behind a rock and flopped in a shady spot.

Heading towards the red slope

 

All the way down I kept seeing one slope that was covered in vibrant reds.  When we finally reached this colorful spot, I spent some time trying in vain to capture it's grandeur.

Super colorful spot on the trail

It looked even better from the downhill side, with Mt Rainier anchoring the skyline.

Still some butterflies!

Now nearing the visitor center, hubby and I marched down the very steep Alta Vista Trail, past a few scraggly asters.  Much to our surprise a few butterflies flitted around the flowers.  I had no idea butterflies were still alive in early October, especially at this high elevation (nearly 5500 feet).

Fall colors lit up by the sun

 

Outside the visitor center, hubby and I took a break at one of the picnic tables outside, had a drink and watched the crowds.  At one point, we noticed a group of people standing at a nearby trail junction all pointing. Then several rangers hurriedly took off down the trail.  What was going on?  I walked up and asked two women and they said a bear had been spotted walking on a nearby trail.  The rangers were trying to scare it away before some foolish person got too close.

Reflection Lake

 

A bear!  I'd heard there were a couple of black bears wandering around above Paradise.  Hubby and I had hoped to spot one on our hike.  But as it turned out, we finished half an hour too soon.  Hoping to catch a glimpse of the bear retreating, we grabbed our backpacks and walked down the Skyline trail a short distance.  But it was too late - by that time the bear had left the area, no doubt encouraged to skedaddle by the rangers.

Colorful bushes around Reflection Lake

 

By now it was approaching late afternoon, and tired of the crowds, we retreated to our campsite for an early dinner.  I wanted to capture sunset at nearby Reflection Lake, so hubby and I drove over after a quick bite to eat.  The fall color along the shore was outstanding, as were the mountain views reflected in the lake's waters.  However the sunset was nonexistent.  We stood around waiting for the sky to turn but nothing happened - not even a bit of alpenglow.

Sunset

Defeated, we began driving back to camp.  Passing by one of the roadside viewpoints (that happened to face a different direction than Reflection Lake) we couldn't believe the color of the sky.  There was our sunset!  Hubby pulled over and I jumped out and snapped a few images just as the sun dropped behind the mountains.

Lazy marmot

Hubby and I were disappointed we'd missed the bear.  So the following day we decided to rehike a portion of the Skyline Trail in hopes we'd see it.  We woke up early, and arrived at Paradise as the sun was rising.  To our surprise, there were already quite a few people in the parking lot - apparently lots of others had the same idea.  We even saw a bride and groom and their guests all dressed up and ready for a wedding!

More lovely autumn color

 

We hurriedly passed by Myrtle Falls and began walking by a talus slope.  I spotted a marmot and then two little pikas intermittently began popping their heads out of the rocks.  I was having so much fun photographing these critters I didn't notice hubby had taken off down the trail.  Then I heard him calling my name - he'd spotted a bear!

Mother bear and two cubs! (Image is heavily cropped and zoomed)

 

A mother bear and two cubs had crossed the trail just below where my hubby had stood.  By the time I hustled down to the spot, they had already sauntered far up the slope.  A small group of people stood clustered by the trail, not sure if they should continue.  But hubby and I walked a bit further to a good vantage point.  By this time, the bear and cubs were quite a distance above us - they looked like black dots - so we felt safe standing there.  Hubby watched the bears with his binoculars.  With my zoom lens I was able to get a few photos of the trio.  We observed the bears for a good half hour.  It was fascinating to watch them lumber through the berry fields, trying to fatten themselves for the coming winter.

Painted hillside

Finally deciding we'd watched the bears long enough, hubby and I continued up the trail hoping to spot more wildlife.  We came upon a junction to a side trail that led to the Paradise Glacier.  Having never hiked this direction, I suggested we check it out.

High alpine tundra

 

Good decision!  Not only was the trail relatively deserted, the views were stunning.  High above treeline, the rocky soil was intermittently covered with brilliantly colored vegetation.  The views were incredible - the Tatoosh Mountain Range from one direction, and Mt Rainier looming prominently in the other.

Hiking towards Paradise Glacier

And, as we approached the terminus of Paradise Glacier, hubby spotted three mountain goats perched above a steep, rocky slope. 

Mountain goats!

 

Upon our return to the Skyline Trail, we spotted several marmots wandering through the lush vegetation surrounding one of the glacial streams.  They were furiously eating, trying to store up fat for winter.  One marmot was right beside the trail and I had fun trying to capture it with leaves in his mouth.

Marmot with a mouthful

 

After having lunch sitting on a bench overlooking the colorful valley below Panorama Point, Hubby and I decided to hike down the Golden Gate Trail for a change of pace.  

Blazing colorful tundra

 

I think this was the most beautiful trail above Paradise!  The meadows were streaked with autumn hues. It was as if an artist had taken his paintbrush to the slopes.

Wonderful Golden Gate Trail

 

It took me a long time to hike the 1.5 miles to the next junction.  (Good thing my hubby is so patient!)

Colorful meadow

 

Since we'd gotten such an early start, hubby and I finished our hike shortly after noon.  The Paradise area was now a complete zoo.  Full of weekend hikers, the trails were packed with people.  Wanting to avoid the masses, hubby and I decided to hike another trail somewhere else.

Friendly deer

 

We drove back to Reflection Lakes and snagged a parking space from a departing car.  Although this area was also very busy, I suggested taking the Lakes Trail back up to the Skyline Trail.  I'd never hiked this route before, so was eager to try it.

Mt Rainier view from the Lake Trail

 

Again, another winner!  The fall colors were stellar, views were incredible (especially the last quarter mile) and we saw more wildlife.  We came upon a trio of deer happily munching dinner in the middle of the trail.  They didn't seem scared by our presence, and let me snap quite a few images.

Meadow on the Lakes Trail

 

The final quarter mile before the junction with the Skyline Trail was especially scenic.  Mt Rainier dominated the sky, framed by a meadow dazzling with fall finery.

Ptarmigan

 

After tagging the Skyline Trail, hubby and I hustled back down the Lakes Trail, trying to beat sunset.  About halfway down, I startled a few birds (we think they were ptarmigan) that were pecking through the underbrush.  I was able to get fairly close to one of them and snap a few pictures.

Evening light on the huckleberry leaves

 

In the fading light, we passed an enormous field of blazing red huckleberry leaves, where I took this final image.  One of my favorite of the weekend, I loved the red bushes and light on the mountains and trees above.

Bravo for making it all the way through this long post!  Sorry for all the photos, but with scenery like this, I couldn't decide what to leave out so you got them all.  (Believe it or not, I took so many photos, I could've added even more!)  

 A wonderful weekend at an amazing National Park  - I'm already planning next year's fall trip!

Into the Crater

Remember in a previous post how I'd hiked up Ape Canyon, under Mt St Helens' summit, walked across the Plains of Abraham and got views of a lovely flower-filled butte, but it was just a bit too far for a day hike?  Well a few weeks later, I went back and hiked to this area via a different trail from the north.  That hike is what this post is all about.  (Be prepared for lots of photos!)

 

Morning light on Mt St Helens

 

I love hiking from the Windy Ridge (northeast) side of Mt St Helens.  However, reaching this trailhead requires a 3-hour (one way) drive from Portland, the last hour over windy Forest Service roads in poor condition. But my desire to see the flower fields before the wildflowers wilted away was further fueled by photos from a friend that had hiked the same area, and not only did she see loads of flowers, she also encountered mountain goats!   

Our first leg was on an old road

 

Luckily my hubby decided to accompany me on this latest hiking adventure, so I had company for the long drive.  We left early one mid-July morning and the drive was fairly uneventful except for when I hit a hidden pothole going a bit too fast (oops!).  Hubby got excited and made me pull over so he could check my car's underside to make sure I didn't punch a hole in anything.  (Spoiler - my car was fine, but boy did I drive like a granny after that!)

 

Loved the wispy clouds above MSH

Finally after a looonnng journey, we arrived at the Windy Ridge Trailhead parking area.  Naturally after being in the car for three hours, the first thing I did was sprint for the bathroom, only to be foiled by a filthy restroom completely out of toilet paper.  Good thing I keep a surplus of Starbucks napkins in my car!

Loowit Trail junction

 

After taking care of restroom needs, putting on hiking boots and resetting my gps I was ready to go.  Hubby and located the start of our trek - an abandoned road.  We'd follow this road for nearly two miles before joining the Loowit Trail proper.

Spirit Lake and a bazillion paintbrush flowers

 

The weather was perfect - blue skies and pleasant temperatures.  The road gave fantastic views of MSH's truncated north side.  You could see right into the crater, and I spotted the lava dome that's been building inside since the 1980 eruption.  From this angle the mountain kind of looked like a large melted cake. 

 

Looking into the crater - notice the lava dome in the center

 

Not only were the mountain views immediate so was the wildflower show.  Flowers lined the sides of the abandoned road, and my camera was out well before the half mile mark.

 

Rockfall from the west crater wall

 

After a long nearly 2 miles the road ended at the junction of the Loowit and Abraham Trails.  The Loowit is the trail that circles the entire perimeter of Mt St Helens.  Having hiked this route several years ago I opted to first follow the Loowit Trail towards the volcano's crater.  So off hubby and I went, past a huge field of orange Indian paintbrush.  As we progressed along the Loowit, views of Spirit Lake began to show over the horizon.

Dramatic views crossing a dry creek

 

The views into the volcano crater were amazing!  The closer we got the more the landscape changed.  The west crater wall still had a small amount of snow on top, but it appeared to be rapidly melting in the rising temperatures.  We even witnessed a large rockslide off the west crater wall.

Loowit falls from a distance

 

After nearly 2.5 miles of walking through this desolate but interesting plain we got a glimpse of our goal ahead - Loowit Falls.  This waterfall was created from melting snow in MSH's crater and flows towards Spirit Lake.  A side trail took us from the Loowit towards this cascade.  This trail's terminus at Loowit Falls is the closest hikers are allowed to get to the crater itself.

 

Mountain goats!

 

 

As hubby and I approached the waterfall, we noticed a few white dots moving on the rocky slope above us.  Mountain goats!  Quickly I switched to my zoom lens and attempted to capture a bunch of images.  Unfortunately the goats were quite a distance away, and a 200 mm zoom lens didn't quite cut it.  But the goats were still fun to watch.  A father, mother and baby goat slowly made their way to the shade of a large rock, where they finally bedded down.   

 

We watched the goats for quite some time

 

I could've watched the goats all day, but we had a waterfall to see and many more miles to cover.  So hubby and I continued along the trail until we reached the designated overlook for Loowit Falls.  We took a quick snack break, and I snapped a few photos.  Then, refreshed, we retracted our steps back along the Loowit trail.

Loowit Falls at our turn-around point

The second part of our loop necessitated a return on the same portion of the Loowit Trail we'd just covered.  After a mile and a half, however, we turned and headed towards Windy Pass.

Heading to Windy Pass

 

The landscape was stark.  Although some small bushes were beginning to grow, there were no large trees to provide shade.  Luckily it wasn't too hot quite yet, but I could feel the temperatures rising and switched to my floppy-brimmed hat and sunglasses.

 

One last look at Spirit Lake

 

 

As we began climbing towards Windy Pass, I took one last look at Spirit Lake, spread out below.  Mt Rainier's snowy summit peeped over the top of the surrounding hills.

 

Quick break on Windy Pass

 

The climb up Windy Pass was sketchy.  The trail snaked up the side of a steep slope, often only the width of our two feet.  The slope dropped off precariously below us and as we climbed, the elevation difference became higher and higher.  A couple of places, I pasted myself against the rocky cliff on the uphill side just to ensure I didn't slide down the slope below.  Hubby and I came upon an older couple standing in the trail.  The wife was freaked out by the steep slopes and exposure below the trail and, paralyzed by fear, was unable to move.  We somehow shuffled by the couple, and I recommended they descend and try another trail.  (I think that's what they finally did)

 

Fantastic Mt Adams view on the other side of Windy Pass

 

 

Finally after lots of huffing and puffing we reached the top of Windy Pass.  And boy the views were fabulous!  We could see Mt Adams and Hood from one direction, and Spirit Lake and Mt Rainier from the other.  And of course MSH's summit was front and center.  Famished from the climb, we took a break to eat our sandwiches.

 

Looking back towards Windy Pass

 

 

From my previous hike here several years ago, I remembered the descent down the other side of Windy Pass as a sketchy, treacherous slide down a sandy, rocky slope.  So I was a wee bit apprehensive about the route down.  But as it turned out, my fears were for naught.  Since my last visit, some trail maintenance had been performed and the trek back down was drama-free.  And as a bonus, there was an amazing view of Mt Adams as we descended.

 

 

Stepping aside for trail runners 

 

At the bottom of the slope was the Plains of Abraham, a barren rock-strewn desert created from the eruption.  But this area boasted some of the best wildflower fields.  Lupine covered the plains, creating some lovely photo ops.  At this point, we encountered a large group of trail runners, trying to cover the entire 32-mile Loowit Trail in one day.  I couldn't even imagine running that far!

Lupine was thick here!

 

 

From here the Loowit wandered across the Plains of Abraham, through lupine fields and stellar views of MSH.  After another mile this path intersected with the Abraham Trail, which coincidentally was the turn-around point of my Ape Canyon hike several weeks ago. 

 

Heading across the Plains of Abraham

 

But instead of taking the Loowit towards Ape Canyon, today hubby and I were hiking on the Abraham Trail towards those fantastic flower fields.  We crossed a gully and climbed the other side, and came upon the best wildflower display we'd seen yet. 

 

Wildflowers in every gully

 

Orange Indian paintbrush filled the slopes.  It was everywhere!  Any forward progress I had made stopped right there.

Then we entered the paintbrush zone

 

The next two miles on the Abraham Trail were a wildflower photographer's dream.

Fields of orange Indian paintbrush everywhere!

 

 

Huge fields of Indian paintbrush climbed slopes, filled gullies and lined ridges.  And to add icing on the cake, Mt Adams and Mt Rainier peeked over the horizon.

 

A very colorful gully

 

Not only paintbrush, many gullies were filled with pink and yellow monkeyflowers.

Orange hillside

 

My poor hubby had to do a lot of waiting!  I wasn't exactly the speediest hiker.

 

Flowers and Mt Adams

But with scenery like this how could anyone hurry through it?

Colorful trail

 

 

The Abraham trail wound through several drainages before finally topping out and following a ridgeline.

 

Then came the yellow zone

 

 

From this vantage you could see our trail all the way back to the old road - the very one we'd hiked at the beginning of the day.

 

Our trail snakes across the ridgetop

As the trail grew closer to this road, the wildflowers changed from paintbrush to yellow Oregon Sunshine.  It was equally as stunning.

Looking back at MSH

 

The concentration of wildflowers along the Abraham trail was simply incredible.  And lucky for me, I'd caught it near the peak bloom.

 

We had to navigate a series of steep log stairs

 

 

Towards the end of the Abraham Trail, the slope got so steep the trail builders had installed a few sets of log stairs.  I think they were intended to keep hikers from sliding down the sandy slope, but they were difficult to navigate.

 

Looking towards our path back to the car

 

But hubby and I managed to get down the endless sets of log stairs.  At one of the flat spots, hubby spotted a toad resting in the rocky soil.  Our second wildlife sighting of the day!  With no water nearby, it seemed like an unusual place for a toad to live. 

Surprised to see a toad in this dry environment

 

 

Although I enjoyed the trek along the Abraham trail immensely, I was happy to see the junction with the old road again.  By now the day was warm and I was hot and tired and ready to be back at our car.

 

More flower-filled slopes

 

 

It's no fun to end a hike with an uphill road walk.  But that was the price of admission to this amazing area, so hubby and I put our heads down and one foot in front of the other.  Luckily there were more great views of Mt Adams to keep our eyes occupied.

 

Final leg back on the road

 

A path that wandered close to the MSH crater, a secret waterfall inside, mountain goats, climbing over a pass with fantastic views, flower fields below, and an amazing wildflower-lined trail.  This hike had it all!  Another great day exploring one of my favorite places.