Yellowstone NP - Waterfalls, Hot Springs, and Bears, Oh My!

After spending the better part of two days geyser-viewing, my buddy Kim and I were ready to add some variety to our Yellowstone adventure.  So on our second afternoon in the park, we left the Old Faithful area to check out Mammoth Hot Springs.  

Well, I should say we tried to leave the Old Faithful area.  I didn't even get a chance to exit the on-ramp to the main park road when my car was stopped by a huge traffic jam.  Westbound vehicles of all shapes and sizes were at a dead standstill.  The road between Old Faithful and Madison junction was under construction and that meant one-way traffic for several miles.

Buffalo grazing in a field of flowers

Kim and I sat in the car for over 30 minutes, watching traffic stream by in the opposite direction.  Just when I thought we'd be stuck there all day, the cars in front of us began to finally move.  We inched through a rough gravel road, past lots of construction equipment.  I was never so glad to hit pavement again!  But after waiting in a group for so long all the vehicles were bunched up and everyone seemed to stop at the same places.  Although we'd planned on seeing the Grand Prismatic Spring, there was so much traffic trying to turn off into an already overflowing parking lot, I ended up just driving on past.

Unnamed waterfall

At the Madison Junction, I turned east along a road that followed the Gibbon River.  After a brief stop to view a churning waterfall (forgot the name!) Kim and I traveled a short distance further before pulling off at a place called Terrace Spring.

Terrace Spring lined with yellow wildflowers

There weren't a lot of vehicles in the parking area, which is one of the reasons we stopped here.  Kim and I followed a series of boardwalks to a lovely blue pool lined with yellow wildflowers.

It's a wonder the flowers can withstand the hot water temps

I was surprised to see wildflowers growing at waters edge.  I guess those plants were hardy enough to withstand the spring's hot temperatures.

Pretty blue pool

There were a few other hot springs to see.  The surrounding grassland outside of the pools was a lush green, fueled by winter snowmelt.  I don't think this area had been snow-free for long - spring comes late to the high country of Yellowstone (which is why they have to do all their road construction during the busy summer tourist season).

Another flower-lined hot spring

Back in the car, on the road again!  We pulled over to walk a nice path overlooking mighty Gibbon Falls.  The path boasted some great clifftop views of the 84-foot-high cascade flowing through a rocky gorge.

Gibbon Falls

Our next stop was at a geyser area called Artists Paintpots.  Seeing the sign from the road, Kim and I decided to check it out.  Although the parking lot was busy, I managed to find a spot for my car.  

Artists Paintpots area

We started off through a stark pine forest for about a half mile.  The lodgepoles pines here were damaged in the great wildfire of 1988.  Beyond this scorched forest, the terrain opened up into a barren, but colorful wasteland.  An orangish creek flowed lazily through this plain, ferrying geyser discharge water.

Blood Geyser

Stepping onto yet another boardwalk, the first geothermal feature I came upon was a geyser surrounded by red-stained soil.  Appropriately named Blood Geyser, this little guy was bubbling mightily.

Steamy overview

Beyond this first geyser, the boardwalk transitioned back into dirt trail that climbed a nearby hill.  Kim and I huffed and puffed up the steep grade.

Interesting looking hot spring

Our steep trek had its rewards.  Once on top of the hill, Kim and I were treated to a grand view of the entire paintpot area, the surrounding forest, and a couple of snow-capped peaks way in the distance.

Another aerial view of Artists Paintpots

From up here, the orange-ish, red-ish soil surrounding the geysers and hot springs really did look like a bunch of paint on an artist's palette.  I later read that these bright colors were due to the abundance of iron oxide.

We climbed a steep hill for this view

Another feature here on this hilltop was a large mudpot, full of boiling gray mud.

Bubbling mud pot

As with the mud volcano area that we'd visited on our first day, this mudpot was mighty smelly!  All thanks to the microorganisms that live in these hot, muddy areas using hydrogen sulfide to break down rocks into wet clay.  The mud bulged and popped as gas bubbles rose to the surface.

Interesting colors and patterns on the mud pot's surface

After watching the mud burble and spatter for a few minutes, Kim and I climbed down the hill and resumed our boardwalk tour of the final hot springs in this area.  One in particular was an eerie gray-blue color.  Guess that was the blue paint in the artist's palette!

Weird blue pool

After the paintpot stop, I drove past the Norris Geyser Basin junction (we'd already visited all the geysers there yesterday) and then turned northward towards Mammoth Hot Springs.  I'd driven about 10 miles up this road when we suddenly came upon a huge traffic jam.  Cars were parked everywhere, lining both sides of the road.  I knew what was going on.  Seeing a place to park in a gravel pull out nearby, I guided the car into the spot and told Kim "there's an animal sighting nearby."

Mama Grizzly and cubs!

Hurriedly I switched to my big zoom lens.  Then Kim and I hustled towards where it seemed most of the onlookers were gathering.  I asked a group who was walking back what was going on and they told me "A mama grizzly bear with three cubs is out beyond the trees."

The bears were adorable

Good thing I had my zoom lens!  The mama and babes were quite a distance and the extra magnification of my big lens helped me see them.  Also considering it was a mother bear with young ones, I was glad they were far enough away that I felt safe watching.  (And thankfully all the onlookers were being smart and keeping their distance.)

In this view all 3 cubs are visible

The bear family were busy feeding, likely filling their bellies after a long winter.  The cubs were so small the tall grass partially hid them at first.  But eventually their mother wandered into a more open area and I was able to get some photos of all four bears.

The bears were busy feeding

An amazing wildlife sighting!  Kim and I lingered for at least a half hour.  By then I had dozens of images and the bears weren't doing much but eating.  Time to get travelin' to our final destination before it got too late in the afternoon.

Precarious roadway

Approaching the Mammoth Hot Springs area, the road had to squeeze through a narrow canyon.  In some places the highway was cantilevered over the dropoff, wedged beside a tall cliff face.  We climbed steeply and then wound downhill, the road full of switchbacking curves.  But finally we made it.  Mammoth Hot Springs, get ready for Linda and Kim!

Minerva Terrace, Mammoth Hot Springs area

Although yet another hydrothermal feature, the unique landscape at Mammoth Hot Springs sets it apart from the other geyser basins in Yellowstone NP.  Instead of large pools of hot water or erupting geysers, the main formations here are large stepped terraces of colorful rock.

Looking back towards the hotel area

A network of fractures and fissures in the underlying rock strata enable hot water to flow upward through the limestone layers.  Scientists have not yet identified the volcanic heat source, but some believe it is due to a large magma chamber.  The hot water from underground contains carbon dioxide and as this solution rises through the rock, it dissolves calcium carbonate, the primary mineral making up limestone.  As the water bubbles out onto the surface, the calcium carbonate is deposited in the form of travertine, thus creating the unusual terraces one finds at Mammoth Hot Springs.

Palette Spring

Due to the paintpot trek and bear viewing detour it was late afternoon by the time we rolled into Mammoth.  And the temperatures were downright toasty!  After missing the parking area and turning around in the small village of hotels and shops in the valley (and eyeing one store advertising ice cream) I found my way back to the lot providing access to the main terrace.

Cleopatra Terrace

More boardwalks awaited us - and stairs!  Since the terraces are stepped up hillsides, one must climb several feet of elevation to see them.  Not what one wants to do when temps are in the upper 80s.  But those colorful features of Mammoth beckoned, so Kim and I sucked it up and started out.

I spotted three elk!

To reduce weight, I left my backpack with big zoom lens in the car.  One our way up what should I spot on the hillside but three female elk.  They were close enough, if I'd had my zoom lens I could've snapped some great images.  But since I didn't, these were as good as I got with my 24-105mm lens.

Jupiter Terrace

Despite the hot uphill trek, when Kim and I finally reached Jupiter Terrace, we gasped in awe.  The terraces were a mixture of orange and white minerals.  The travertine formed uniform steps that cascaded down the slope.  It looked like a piece of art.

A closer look at Jupiter Terrace

I read that it took hundreds of years of mineral deposits to form these intricate terraces.  I also found out that the white or yellow colors indicated the hottest water, while orange, brown or green colors were created from (relatively) cooler water.  Mother Nature is pretty darned amazing!

The terrace formations were incredible!

Many photos were taken.....and I don't feel my images really did the place justice.  All I can say is go see it for yourself if you get the chance.

Selfie time!

I would've loved to explore the area further, but the heat and the long day had taken its toll on Kim and I.  The ice cream in the general store was calling.  So we turned around and retraced our steps back downhill to my car.  

Mound Spring

On our way back, we stopped to view lovely Cleopatra Terrace, whose mineral deposits looked like candle wax dripping down the hillside.  Not sure why these hot springs waters didn't form terraces like the other features.  

More terrace detail

Once at the car, I made a beeline for the main village area and that general store with the enticing ice cream sign.  Apparently lots of other people had the same idea as us, because the line for frozen treats was long!  But after our sweltering trek through the terraces, Kim and I had our hearts set on ice cream, so we braved the line and were duly rewarded.  Boy did it taste good!

Some of it looked like melted candle wax

By this time, it was past 6 pm and we needed to get to our motel for the night in the town of West Yellowstone, Montana, 50 miles away.  The shortest distance to get there was back through the park.  Although that might not seem very far, due to the tourist traffic it would take us nearly two hours to make our way there.

Another elk sighting

One thing I'd forgotten when planning this trip for early June.  Memorial Day to Labor Day is prime tourist time at Yellowstone.  I was amazed at the number of people and vehicles on the road - on a Monday!  Driving back through the park, I was consistently slowed down by large RV's, or people taking their sweet time.  And there weren't many places to pass.  Passing by the place where the bears had been spotted, the beasts were obviously still there, as evidenced by heavy traffic and vehicles parked everywhere.  One car in front of me came to a dead stop on the roadway as the occupants tried to see what was going on.  After a few minutes of no movement I laid on the horn.  I'd had it with all the dumb tourists!  Then, coming upon the Madison Junction, traffic again slowed and then crept along for several miles.  We finally came upon a lone female elk next to the roadway.  Everyone had been stopping to photograph the animal, thus causing the massive jam.  Luckily by the time we passed by, a park ranger had come upon the scene and began to direct traffic.  He motioned everyone to keep moving.  Thank goodness!

Ice cream reward after a hot trek

Finally we arrived at our (very expensive) hotel in West Yellowstone.  For what they charged for one night, I wasn't impressed.  But as we learned, you pay dearly for the convenience of staying close to a national park.  After battling stupid tourist traffic all afternoon I was more than ready to relax with a cold beer (or three!)

Tomorrow we would start for home.  But I had one final stop planned in central Idaho.  Join me for my next post to learn all about Craters of the Moon National Monument.

Yellowstone NP - Upper Geyser Basin

One goes to Yellowstone National Park to see many things - wildlife, unique landscapes, beautiful scenery.  But most of all people visit for the geysers.  Yellowstone is home to more than 10,000 hydrothermal features, 500 of which are geysers.  That's about half of the world's geysers - the largest concentration of active geysers on earth.

So yes, you're going to see more geysers in this post.....

Steaming geysers in the morning chill

After spending the night at Old Faithful Inn, directly adjacent to the most famous geyser of them all, Kim and I awoke and after a quick breakfast hustled outside to watch Old Faithful erupt for a second time.

Old Faithful, pre-eruption

Although it was early June, the morning was quite chilly, causing lots of steam to emit from the nearby geothermal features.

Old Faithful, building up pressure

This time I chose a viewing position more conducive to better photographic light.  After waiting about 10 minutes past the predicted eruption time, Old Faithful began spewing water, building up to a tall column against the morning's blue sky.

Full eruption height

The show was just as magnificent as it had been the previous evening!

Lovely steam cloud against the blue sky

Now on to see more of the geyser basin surrounding Old Faithful.  After checking out of our room, and packing up my car (luckily no bison adjacent to it this morning!) we left it parked in the lot and embarked on a walk around the entire area.

Castle Geyser

There's a large concentration of geothermal features north and west of Old Faithful called the Upper Geyser Basin.  It's about a 3-mile walk to see most of them.  But Kim and I had all morning, so we set off to visit as many as we could.

Crested Pool

Beginning on a  paved path near the parking lot, we first came to the tall cone of the Castle Geyser.  A very large, impressive structure made of the mineral geyserite, the rock layers formed stair-step terraces down its sides.  Although it erupts on average every 14 hours, the Castle Geyser was only steaming heavily that morning.

Round Spring 

Kim and I had just passed the Castle Geyser when we met a woman traveling the opposite direction.  She warned us that she'd just seen a bear.  As we looked past the next hot springs, sure enough, Kim glimpsed a black bear running away from where we stood.  I quickly tried to switch to my zoom lens, but by the time I had my camera ready, the bruin was long gone.

Morning view of Firehole River

Our first bear sighting in Yellowstone!  We took this as a good omen as Kim and I continued our walk along the geyser basin.  First past an interesting feature called the Crested Pool, whose water was so hot it prevented most bacterial growth, resulting in amazingly clear, blue water.  Then past another blue hot spring called Round Spring.  The path followed the Firehole River, occasionally giving nice views of this non-hydrothermal water feature.

Grotto Geyser

Next on our geyser agenda was the very unusual Grotto Geyser.  It had a very tall, funny-shaped cone formation, thanks to lots of geyserite.  I later read it was one of the more predictable geysers in the park, erupting about every six hours.  When we first passed by, it was just steaming a lot, so much so that the cone was hard to see.

 

Grotto Geyser pumping out a lot of steam

Past Grotto Geyser, we wandered by a few smaller, unnamed hot pools.  

Unnamed geyser

There was a large barren area containing several rusty-colored hot pools.  Our map noted this was the "Chain Lakes."

Chain Lakes

A small flow of hot, siliceous water created a colorful slope at the lake's edge.

Colorful outflow

Our path crossed over the Firehole River, where I was surprised to see two fisherman wading into the waters.  I didn't think people were allowed to venture off the paths!  Obviously the river itself wasn't hot enough to hurt people (or fish), and it appeared that fly fishing was allowed.  Steam was venting from the bank nearby, and it didn't look like a safe place to me.

Fisherman in Firehole River

When I was a kid, my family visited Yellowstone twice, and I remember my favorite geothermal feature was a brilliantly blue hot spring named Morning Glory Pool.  I liked the pool so much I even took a few really terrible photos of it (back in the film days when you rationed your pictures).  So when I saw Morning Glory Pool on the map of Upper Geyser Basin, I told Kim this was one feature we were definitely visiting.

Morning Glory Pool

The pool was located at the end of a long trail.  A wooden boardwalk encircled about half of its perimeter.  I was surprised to see Morning Glory Pool looked much smaller than I remembered.  And it wasn't nearly as vivid either.

One of my favorites!

I later read that this colorful feature has become a victim of vandalism.  Over the years park visitors have thrown tons of coins, trash, rocks, and logs into the pool.  The debris became embedded into the sides and vent of the spring, reducing water circulation and causing water temperatures to fall.  The cooler water allowed orange and yellow bacteria to thrive, changing the water color from its lovely blue.  (Sigh....this is why we can't have nice things!)

Riverside Geyser - Can you spot the buffalo?

Although from Morning Glory Pool Kim and I could've walked farther to explore Biscuit Basin, it was another mile away.  There were quite a few geysers yet to see on our return trip, so we turned around and worked our way back towards Old Faithful.  On a short detour from the main path, we looped over to take a gander at Riverside Geyser, on the banks of the Firehole River.  We spied a buffalo sitting peacefully in the grass right above its steaming vent.

Grotto Geyser erupting

Our route again passed by Grotto Geyser, and this time we got to see it erupt.  A small plume of water shot into the sky again and again, giving me many opportunities to photograph the sight.

From here our paved path transitioned to a wooden boardwalk, a familiar feature throughout Yellowstone National Park.  Designed to allow visitors to view the thermal features safely (as long as they stayed on the boardwalks.)

The eruption continues...

Next up on our geyser basin tour was the appropriately named Giant Geyser.  It had a huge geyserite cone over its vent that was merely steaming.

Giant Geyser

Some of the larger and more regular geysers had eruption predictions posted on signs by park employees.  However, in the case of the Giant Geyser, the date of the last eruption was the only data noted.  Apparently eruptions from this geyser have become erratic, thus the reason for the lack of a timeline.  I did later read that the Giant Geyser is capable of spectacular eruptions, reaching up to 250 feet in height and lasting over an hour.  Wouldn't that be something to see?

Some of the larger geysers had eruption times posted

Sadly the Giant Geyser was not in eruption mood that day, so Kim and I continued down the boardwalk to the next thermal feature.

Where to go next?

Next, we passed by two lovely hot springs, named Chromatic Pool and Beauty Pool.

Chromatic Pool

Apparently these two springs are somehow linked, because during energy shifts, the level of one pool rises and the other lowers.

Another view of Chromatic Pool

Another fun fact:  Beauty Pool apparently shows its brightest colors during higher water temperatures.

Another view of Beauty Pool

It certainly was a beauty!  And Beauty Pool's waters must've been very hot that day because it displayed many shades of brilliant colors.

This wins the prize for dumbest geyser name....

I'm not sure who named all geysers in Yellowstone, or how the names came to be.  Some are pretty self-explanatory (such as Giant Geyser, Beauty Pool, etc.)  So when I passed by one little geyser named the "Economic Geyser" I thought to myself "What's the story behind that?"  I'm sorry but in my opinion that's gotta be the dumbest geyser name ever!

We didn't stick around to watch this one erupt

Moving on.....The nearby Grand Geyser was one of the thermal features with posted eruption estimates.  It had the distinction of being the tallest predictable geyser in the world.  I'm told an eruption lasts 9-12 minutes and can reach heights of 200 feet.  But since an eruption wasn't predicted until midafternoon, we weren't about to wait around half the day to see it.

Pretty blue pool - but forgot the name!

Not all the thermal features had signs adjacent to their pools.  There were several tiny, colorful hot springs that appeared to be unnamed.  (In light of the "Economic Geyser" debacle, maybe the park service employees ran out of names)

The geyser wasn't much to look at but I loved it's name!

Speaking of names, I didn't get a photo of this geyser, but it's sign made me laugh!

Interesting dead tree roots 

The forest fringes surrounding the Upper Geyser Basin had quite a few dead or dying trees.  I'm assuming when the hot water gets too close to their roots it kills the tree.  There were a few gnarled, grey-barked pines that made interesting photo subjects.

This little geyser was putting on quite a show!

Kim and I approached the area nearest to Old Faithful, a concentration of thermal features nicknamed "Geyser Hill."  There were all kinds of steaming vents and boiling springs to gawk at - and photograph!

Spasmodic Geyser

One was called Spasmodic Geyser - I'd love to know how it earned that name!

Sawmill Geyser

Some of the geysers had tiny round mineral formations around their perimeters.  Not sure why these formed and not a tall cone - I guess more research is in order.

Lion Group

A larger geyser on "Geyser Hill," the Lion Group consisted of four different geysers, all named with a lion theme.  The Lion, marked by a tall cone, is the largest, and will shoot water 70 feet in the air when erupting.  And apparently it makes a loud roaring sound when it begins an eruption.  

Another look at the Lion Group

Another lovely blue hot spring, Heart Spring was very photogenic.

Heart Spring

Since now we were not far from Old Faithful, Kim and I noticed the boardwalks were getting more crowded.  We'd kind of enjoyed having the far-away geysers mostly to ourselves, so sometimes waiting for a spot to view a thermal feature took some getting used to.

Cute little hot pools

Beehive Geyser

With a rounded cone, the Beehive Geyser lived up to its name.  Apparently the Beehive's eruptions put on quite a show, projecting tall water columns.  After we'd walked to the far end of the boardwalk, this little stinker decided to erupt.  I got a glimpse of the water plume from afar.

Interesting colors and shapes in this outflow

The colored minerals around the geysers and hot springs were so interesting.  A lot of them were an orangish shade and deposited in all kinds of shapes.  Also very photogenic!

Plume Geyser

On the high point of Geyser Hill, I looked over and could see the barren plain surrounding Old Faithful.  Thinking it would be neat to see it erupt from this vantage, I kept a close eye on its smoking cone as I continued along the boardwalk.

Anemone Geyser

The Anemone Geyser looked like it had a bad case of acne.

Water spurts from Sponge Geyser

The Sponge Geyser was really spurting - not tall bursts, but very consistent.  (And again, another weird geyser name!)

Old Faithful erupting from afar

While at the Sponge Geyser, I looked across the hill and noticed Old Faithful was erupting.  Thanks to my zoom lens, I was able to get some photos of the event.

Colorful stream bank

Kim and I finished up our long morning of geyser exploration crossing the Firehole River back towards Old Faithful Inn.  On top of the riverbank was a tiny geothermal called Chinese Spring.  Its flow of hot water and minerals had killed all the surrounding trees and created a colorful white and orange striped outflow into the river.

Chinese Spring

It was now past noon and we were both hungry and quite geysered-out.  Time to find some lunch and then go explore more of the park.  Which I'll recap in the next post.

Hope I haven't bored you too much with all the geysers!  The next post I promise I'll have photos of other things I saw in Yellowstone NP.