Uphill from Timberline

To ski Mt Hood, it's all uphill from Timberline Lodge!

Amazing sunrise over Mt Hood

Well.....actually I'm not in good enough shape nor posses the skiing ability to summit 11,250 foot Mt Hood.  But I can ski up to the top lift at Timberline Ski Area, and that's a respectable 2,500 foot climb.

Sky color

The last Sunday in February I decided to do just that and invited my buddy Catherine to join me for the fun.  Catherine had recently purchased climbing skins for her cross country skis and wanted to try them out.

Hood peeping out of the clouds

Due to COVID, this year Timberline ski area limited crowds by closing their parking lots once they were full.  Rumor had it the lots filled fast on weekends, so I made Catherine get up extremely early and leave town at the ungodly hour of 5 am.  But the reward for our pre-dawn departure was witnessing an amazing sunrise over Mt Hood.

Illuminated cloud over Mt Hood

We arrived at Timberline so early we got a primo parking spot just steps from the day lodge.  Unfortunately, we also learned the hard way that the day lodge (where the bathrooms were located) didn't open until 7:30.  It was a long hour wait........

Timberline Lodge covered in snow

But Catherine and I busied ourselves with gear preparations (her) and second breakfast (me).  I also made a few treks over to the climber's parking lot, first to capture sunrise and then for some photos of the pretty post-dawn clouds over the mountain.

Ice-encased trees

But finally, gear prepped and bladders emptied, it was time to begin the day's journey!  I led Catherine to the beginning of Timberline's designated climber's route, beside majestic snow-covered Timberline Lodge.  After donning skis and backpacks I showed Catherine the finer points of shuffling uphill on climbing skins.

More white trees

For those who don't ski, uphill (aka backcountry) skiing has become wildly popular over the last few years.  Skiers attach pieces of heavy material to the underside of skis.  This material called "climbing skins" provides enough traction to enable uphill travel without sliding backwards.

Catherine trudging uphill

Most skiers use wide alpine-type skis for backcountry touring.  However, cross country skis also work.  Catherine had a pair of metal edged mountaineering Nordic skis and this was her first time using climbing skins.  Although her skis were much narrower she seemed to quickly get the hang of things.

Admiring the view

Today's weather was nothing short of spectacular.  The few sunrise clouds had drifted away leaving blue, sunny skies.  Snow had fallen the previous day combined with a bit of freezing rain, which left a sparkling winter wonderland.  Mt Hood gleamed in her white covering.  Nearby trees were coated with a thick layer of ice, their contorted shapes looking extremely artistic.  

Timberline Lodge seems sooo small now!

A few photos may have been taken by yours truly.......

Buddy photo 

I like to get creative with my selfies, and to get the above photo, I placed my camera on the ground, set the timer and then shuffled towards it.  I programmed my camera to take 5 shots, so it was fun to see the progressive images.

Lots of uphill skiers today

Unlike many ski resorts, Timberline allows uphill travel.  There are of course a few rules to follow, one being that uphill skiers need to stay off the groomed downhill ski trails.  Timberline has their snowcats plow a special road for climbers and uphill skiers.  The nice weather brought out many folks, most sliding uphill much faster than Catherine and I.

Step aside for the snowcat!

But we didn't mind in the least.  Catherine and I were having a grand time taking in the views.  Towards the south Mt Jefferson poked it's peak up above the clouds.  One of Timberline's snowcats came trucking up and then back down, forcing everyone to the side of the road.  You learn fast, the snowcat always has the right of way!

Catherine poses with Mt Jefferson

Although we'd originally planned to skin all the way up to the top of the Palmer, Timberline's highest lift, icy snow conditions made us reconsider.  That and Catherine was having traction problems.  Her narrow climbing skins didn't cover the entire ski bottom causing her to slip a bit.

Ice covered Silcox Hut

So our plans changed - we decided to turn around at the top of the Magic Mile lift, about one mile and 1000 feet up from Timberline Lodge.  I deemed this far enough for a first-timer.

Snowcat transporting people from the Silcox Hut

At the same elevation as the top of the Magic Mile is a small building called the Silcox Hut.  A rustic lodge built in 1939 by the WPA, this building originally housed the Magic Mile Chairlift's upper bullwheel.  This building was also intended as a warming hut and starting point for climbers.  After the Magic Mile chairlift was relocated in 1962, the lodge became abandoned and fell into disrepair.  Silcox Hut was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1985 and an organization created to restore the lodge.  Present day it is rented out as an overnight facility to groups of up to 24 people and also used for day use activities such as weddings. 

Roof of Silcox Hut coated in ice

Catherine and I approached the ice-covered Silcox Hut.  Despite COVID, we were surprised to see a group of overnight guests exiting and boarding a waiting snowcat (access to this lodge is either by human power or snowcat).  

At 6,950 feet this wide open, above-treeline portion of Mt Hood sees lots of extreme weather.  It was evidenced by the thick coating of ice and wind-packed snow on the building.  Sure made for some cool photo ops!

Magic Mile and Palmer Lift houses

Our final leg of the day's journey took Catherine and I over to the top of the Magic Mile Lift and bottom of the Palmer Lift.  Both lift buildings stood silent, disabled by the previous day's snow and ice storm.  A thick layer of ice coated the lift towers and cables, which would take the ski area maintenance staff a couple of days to completely clear off.  

Ice encrusted Palmer ski lift

Now it was time to remove our climbing skins and ski back down!  

Catherine smiles as she removes her climbing skins

Since Timberline wasn't running the Magic Mile lift that day, the slopes hadn't been groomed.  So Catherine and I had to do our best "survival skiing" down a bumpy, icy snowcat track.  Although she had really skinny cross country skis, Catherine did great!  We both survived our very quick downhill trip.  (We spent about an hour and a half climbing up and a mere 20 minutes skiing back down.)

The ski down over a bumpy cat track

Yes, some folks will say that's a lot of work for only one downhill ski trip.  But I personally enjoy the uphill journey.  It's fun to take in the scenery at a slower pace.  I can have a good conversation and catch up with my friend.  Plus it's great exercise.

Another spectacular (uphill) day on Mt Hood!

Smoky Day in Paradise Park

I'm a slow learner.  Even after finally getting my broken toe diagnosed, a stern warning from my podiatrist couldn't convince me to take a break from hiking.  I wasn't about to pass up one final ramble in Mt Hood's high alpine meadows.  Plus, I'd made plans with my new hiking buddy Catherine prior to this appointment. 

Bare ski slopes

It was mid-September, and wildfires were raging all over Oregon, the worst being a huge blaze in the Columbia River Gorge.  With all my favorite Gorge hiking haunts off-limits I looked to the mountains for my hiking fix.  Luckily for my friend and I, Mt Hood's forests had so far escaped the infernos.  But while plotting to explore the beautiful Paradise Park Trail we neglected to take one factor into consideration - wildfire smoke.  It lingered over Portland the morning of our trip, causing worry about what kind of air quality we'd encounter at the trailhead.

Catherine poses at the PCT sign

Neither of us were keen on sucking smoke while trudging uphill.  After hemming and hawing in Portland, trying to come up with alternate trails, we finally decided to bite the bullet, drive up to Timberline Lodge, and see how bad it really was.  Although the air was hazy for nearly the entire journey, when we pulled into Timberline's parking lot Hood was visible, save for a few lingering clouds (regular old clouds, not smoke).

Chairlifts patiently waiting for winter

Catherine and I decided to go for it.  Since rain and cold weather were forecast the following day, we both knew it might be our last chance to hike Mt Hood's high alpine country.  Following a paved path behind historic Timberline Lodge, we located the large wooden sign for the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) which in this location also shared paths with the round-the-mountain Timberline Trail.  Today's goal was to follow this trail westward four miles to the Paradise Park loop, and then head uphill to it's famous flower meadows.

Winding through high alpine tundra

The first mile was an easy saunter through shriveled flower fields.  The wide-open plains offered wonderful views of Mt Hood and the idle chairlifts of Timberline Ski Area.  On this late summer's day, it was hard to believe in a few short months these slopes would be covered with several feet of snow.

Crossing Zig Zag River

Past the wilderness boundary, Catherine and I crossed Little Zig Zag Canyon, journeyed across more delightful wide-open vistas, and then began the long descent into Zig Zag Canyon.  Losing 700 feet in 3/4 of a mile, the trail twisted and turned through forest before finally popping out into barren moonscape surrounding the Zig Zag River.

Looking back up Zig Zag Canyon

Rushing with glacial meltwater, crossing the mighty Zig Zag can sometimes be a challenge.  But this year traversing was easy peasy thanks to a sturdy log some kind soul had placed across it's banks.  Catherine and I shuffled to the opposite side and paused to take in the the upriver views.  A waterfall churned in the distance, and beyond we could make out steep canyon walls from the hazy skies.

First of the blow down

Then it was time to climb once again!  Although the opposite bank didn't gain quite as much elevation, it was still a long slow slog.  And it didn't help that we ran into a huge pile of blow-down trees blocking the trail.

Massive blow down trees covered the trail

Last winter had not been kind to the forest here.  Several enormous fir trees had blown down across a short stretch of trail, necessitating Catherine and I's best climbing skills to bypass.  Although other hikers had created a few work-around bootpaths, in some spots you had no choice but to clamber over the giant logs.  Up to now, my broken toe had been behaving, but climbing over these obstacles caused me to place my feet in different, non-walking positions.  One sketchy foothold was all it took to get my toe throbbing.

Red fall berries

After negotiating all that blow-down, we came to the first Paradise Loop Trail junction.  Time for more climbing!  Although this trail to the famous flower fields was less than a mile, I remembered from prior visits that it seemed to drag on forever.  Some things never change.....although a long slog, the forest was brightened by a huge patch of bright red berries.  And I even passed by one large field of dried up purple asters. 

Not what you think it is.....

Although the lupine bloom was long gone, its leaves were still green.  Dropping my trekking pole into a patch, one clump of lupine leaves stuck to the handle.  Funny and totally photo-worthy! (Yes, I know lupine leaves look similar to another popular plant, but it's not what you think it is!)

Still some mop-headed Western Pasque Flowers about

We passed by a huge slope covered with mop-headed Western Pasque Flowers (aka "Hippy on a Stick") 

Usually this meadow is full of flowers

Sadly, Paradise Park's beloved flower meadows were way past peak.  Upon arrival, all that was left were withered, brown stalks of what looked to have been a great bloom.  Oh well, at least there was a nice (albeit smoky) view of Mt Hood .

The famous Paradise Meadow sign

By now way past lunchtime, rumbling tummies forced Catherine and I to find a spot nearby to rest and refuel.  By now, my toe was aching mightily, and I gulped a couple of ibuprofen to ward off the pain.

Re-crossing the Zig Zag

It was funny, now that I knew for sure my toe was broken, I seemed to be hyper-cautious about every ache and pain, and baby it even more.  Due to my gimpy state, Catherine said it was up to me to determine our turn-around point.  Although I'd hoped to cover the entire Paradise Loop, with my now-unhappy toe, I decided it was wise to head back after lunch.  Our return trip involved mostly downhill travel at first.  This did not help my foot situation.  However, I kept going, hoping the ibuprofen would kick in soon.

Top of Hood shines through the smoke

Clambering over the blow-down trees a second time wasn't a lot of fun on a sore foot, but I made it through.  Then came the long, steep descent into Zig Zag Canyon.  As Catherine and shuffled across the log once again, and looking up the canyon, we noticed the skies were getting quite hazy.

Hazy mountain views

Time for the brutal climb out of Zig Zag Canyon!  To prepare, I fortified myself with a handful of gummi bears.  At least I had good company - Catherine and I chatted as we ascended, and that helped take my mind off tired legs and lungs (and angry toe!).

Fall colors starting to show

My podiatrist is an avid hiker and mountain climber, and we both joked it would be ironic to run into her up here on this trail (I would've been so busted!)  Luckily that didn't happen......(and I'm pretty sure my doc doesn't read this blog either.)

Zig Zag Canyon overlook

Finally Catherine and I reached the very top of Zig Zag Canyon.  We paused at the overlook to take in the magnificent views of Mt Hood and the massive canyon below.  But, oh were the skies looking smoky!

Rusty red leaves

The final two miles back to Timberline Lodge were the  most brutal of all.   Not only was I tired from hiking all day, the trail was all uphill.  At least there were some lovely early fall colors to distract me (and my camera!)  To save weight on my body, I only carried my new mirrorless Fujifilm camera on this hike.  So all the images in this post were from the new camera.  (I think they've improved from my first few photo excursions!)

Crossing Little Zig Zag Canyon

Catherine and I were glad we'd turned around early.  The wildfire smoke seemed to be getting worse with every passing hour.  Not only that, we could feel the weather changing.  Tomorrow's rainstorm was definitely on it's way.  I felt sorry for the backpackers I saw heading out.  They were in for a miserable, wet evening.

Hood in hazy afternoon light

Finally, Timberline Lodge came into view, and I was never so happy to see the place!  My sore toe now throbbing (so much for the "vitamin I") I was more than ready to take off my hiking boots and sit down.  Today's slow, painful return trip made me realize my doc was right.  If this toe was ever gonna get better, I needed to take a break from hiking.  It took a nine-mile slog over downed trees to finally get it through my thick skull (told you I was a slow learner!)

Timberline Lodge

But, despite the smoky skies and achy feet, I was happy to have completed one last trip high in the mountain meadows.  The very next day rain and snow descended upon Hood, covering the slopes around Timberline with a good foot of white stuff - and giving me another excuse to stay home and finally rest my foot.


Stats:  9 miles round trip, 2000 feet elevation gain.

Icy Day at Timberline

When November rolls around, I watch the weather like a hawk.  While others bemoan the rainy days and colder temperatures, I rejoice.  The mountain is getting snow!

And when the snowpack gets deep enough, it's time to strap on my skis.

Young and I team up again!

I set my sights on the first Saturday of December for a quick trip up Timberline Ski Area's upper lifts, conning my friend Young and her hubby to join me.  But the forecast didn't look great...Friday temps on the mountain warmed above freezing and a bit of rain fell.  The following day was supposed to get cold again, and I was afraid all that wet snow would freeze solid.

Still, you don't know if you don't go, so Saturday morning I packed my car anyway and headed up to Mt Hood.

Ice-crusted trees

Driving up Timberline Road, strong winds buffeted my car and snowflakes clouded visibility.  Parking at the climber's lot, I could hardly make out the nearby lifts, let alone the top of Hood.  It didn't look promising!

But when Young, her husband John, and their son pulled up, the only words from John were "suit up, let's go!"

Young is happy to be outside

Since Young and I are slower uphill skiers (and also like to stop and take photos) we buddied up, and let the men move at their own pace.  Bundling up against the wind gusts, we started out climbing a tall bank and crossing a snowy knoll before finding our groove on the packed snowcat track.

Low clouds and blowing snow

Snow was falling, but the wild winds blew it around so much visibility was low.  Although happy to see the white stuff, I was dismayed to discover a thick layer of ice under the meager accumulation.

Taking a photo (aka rest) break!  (photo by Young)

But my friend and I were happy to be outside, even if the weather was less than perfect.  Climbing uphill soon warmed out bodies, and we chattered away, getting caught up on each other's lives.  And, of course, every once and awhile we'd stop for a photo break!

Hood peeks out of the clouds

Many uphill skiers tackle the steep climb from Timberline Lodge up Mt Hood's snowy slopes.  First, one follows the snowcat track that parallels the Magic Mile ski lift's trails (but for safety we're required to stay off the designated runs).  The first leg ends at the top of the Magic Mile and the Silcox Hut.  The second leg climbs above the Magic Mile, following the Palmer Chairlift (which due to extreme weather usually isn't open in the winter but is only used for spring/summer skiing).  Our destination today was the top of the Palmer, approximately two miles and 2500 feet of climbing.

Mt Hood and the Silcox Hut come into view

Although battling wind and near-whiteout conditions, as Young and I neared the top of the Mile, we suddenly noticed clearing skies.  The Silcox Hut's snow-covered roof came into view.

John is waaayyyy ahead!

And then, the clouds parted, and Mt Hood's lovely white summit emerged from the storm.  We also got a glimpse of John, wayyy up the slope!

Silcox Hut is hiding behind a snowbank

Nearing the Silcox Hut, our track became bumpy and icy.  Navigating the tall berm around the building was a real challenge.  But Young and I made it!

Checking out the hut

The Silcox Hut is a rustic mid-mountain lodge.  Built by the WPA, it was originally the upper terminal for the Magic Mile Lift, and also served as a warming hut and starting point for climbers.  Restored in the 1980s, the hut is now rented out to groups for weddings and overnight lodging.

Snowed-in front door

Reaching the hut, Young and I used it's walls as refuge from the wind, and took a quick snack break.  It was also a great opportunity for some photographs of the building's details.  Well, those that weren't covered in snow!

Yup, it's the Silcox Hut!

I especially noticed the metal inscription on the front door.

Fantastic views above the hut

John and Young's son were raring to reach the top of the Palmer Lift, and opted to forego a stop at the Silcox Hut.  However, although the skies had cleared by the time we'd reached this point, the snowstorm wasn't done yet.  As Young and I prepared to leave our sheltered break area, we were slammed by an new squall.  And topping it off, the slopes above this point were nothing but ice.

Magic Mile and Palmer Lift houses

Traction on this glittering surface was difficult.  Young took a hard fall and bumped her knee.  With visibility worsening, and the snow treacherously slippery, turning around wasn't a hard decision.  As Young and I were removing the climbing skins from our skis, John came sliding back downhill.  He'd also been forced to turn around by the icy conditions.

The trip back downhill was not fun.  The bumpy, icy slopes were difficult to navigate.  I must've fell at least a dozen times.  Not only were skiing conditions terrible, visibility deteriorated, making it hard to see where you were going.  Some of my falls were due to skiing into tall berms that I couldn't see.  It was survival skiing at its finest!

Foiled by icy conditions!

But near the lodge, John directed us into a small gully.  Wind-blown snow had filled in the very bottom and I enjoyed a few sweet turns in the light, fluffy powder.  Almost made the strenuous uphill and terrifying downhill worth it.  Well - almost!

Everyone in our party made it to the parking lot in one piece.  And we all agreed, even though the day's conditions were challenging, it was good to get outside and enjoy a bit of winter on the mountain.