A Double Dose of Smith Rock

My late October doggy-sitting gig provided many opportunities for exploration and photography of Central Oregon.  One of my of my favorite places to visit when in this part of the state is Smith Rock State Park.  Lucky for me, my daughter's home wasn't far from this stunning area.

Morning light on the Smith Rocks

Smith Rock State Park is a geologic wonderland.  Tall rocky pillars rise up from the surrounding plains.  Built from volcanic ash and basalt, these massive formations are popular with rock climbers. However, this park is not just for rock jocks.  Hiking trails abound here also.  The Crooked River, true to it's name, winds between the palisades and a lovely riverside trail follows it's path.  There's another trail, (aptly named "Misery Ridge") that takes folks up and over the very top of these soaring pinnacles.  You can't go wrong with a visit to Smith Rock - the scenery here is absolutely spectacular.

Rocky reflections

I love visiting Smith Rock so much I actually made two trips during my 10-day stint.  The first, on the second day of my dog-sitting commitment, was a lovely bluebird morning.  After taking the steep trail down into the canyon, I followed another trail along the Crooked River.  Smith Rock's iconic basalt pillars made perfect reflections on the waters.

Fantastic morning light!

Still recovering from the previous day's failed Black Butte summit attempt, I limped along the path paralleling the Crooked River.  Although my legs were sore, today's hiking actually helped loosen up the overused muscles.

Great blue heron reflection

Walking under the shadows of the tall rock walls, I came to a bend in the river.  Perched on a rock was a Great Blue Heron!  In hopes of some wildlife encounters, I'd placed my large zoom lens in my backpack.  Quickly I switched lenses and fired away at the big blue bird.  After a couple dozen frames, the heron, probably tired of this lady paparazzi, flapped it's wings and took off across the water.  Lucky for me, I was already focused on the bird and got a couple of nice shots of it in flight.

Moon over the rock wall

Well, that was fun!  Now, onward - trudging along the river's edge, occasionally looking up at the cliffs far above me.  I got a glimpse of the moon's half-circle in the sky above one of the pinnacles and couldn't resist a capture or two.

A robin eyeing the juniper berries

Although most of the area along the river is covered in low bushes, I passed through one area of tall juniper trees.  A flock of robins were all over the place, snacking on the plentiful berries.  Although I usually don't bother photographing robins (they're a "dime-a-dozen" bird species as far as I'm concerned) these red-breasted guys were very close and posing nicely.  So I fired off a bunch of shots, and was really pleased with the results.

Another posing robin

And then I saw a magpie flitting between the branches.  Now a magpie was a species I definitely wanted to capture!  But....these guys are super fast and always on the move.  I tried my best, but this magpie definitely didn't want his picture taken.  Just as I would lock my focus, he'd fly off.  Or he'd land in a shady area.  After several minutes of waiting and watching I finally threw in the towel.

I finally got a magpie to sit still!

I walked a bit further along the river, admiring the lovely fall hues of the bushes.  But the day was getting hot and my legs were getting tired, so I decided to head back.  Because the sun was now higher, I made many photo stops on my return trip to capture the same scenery in different light.  After crossing the Crooked River pedestrian bridge, I was taking a break when I noticed a man nearby, camera focused on a magpie.  The bird was being harassed by a robin and it was standing still!  

Now was my chance!  Switching lenses yet again, I crept over to where the man stood and focused on the magpie.  Although the bird flew around a bit, it stayed in the area and kept landing on top of the nearby bushes.  Because the bird held still I was able to get my magpie shots.

Morning sun lighting up the yellows

After that successful visit, I knew I wanted to return to Smith Rocks one more time before my doggy-sitting gig was up.  But it wasn't until the very last day that I finally made it back.  This time, I decided instead of walking down the most popular riverside trail, I'd head the opposite direction down a less-visited path.

The Crooked River's colorful bank

The morning was chilly, forcing me to don my down jacket, knit hat, and gloves.  The grasses and bushes surrounding the Crooked River had transformed into hues of yellow and gold.  Sunlight streamed through the river canyon, lighting everything up.  It was another magnificent day.

Steep canyon walls

I walked about a mile before this trail headed uphill.  After huffing up a very steep path I landed on top of a plateau.  Here the Crooked River entered a very deep canyon with steep, rocky walls.  I had an excellent birds-eye view of both the towering pillars above and the river far below.

View from the top of the canyon

After drinking in the views I returned back down to river level.  By now the sun had risen above the surrounding hills bathing the entire Crooked River in light.  Although I'd taken photos along the river on my initial trip, the light was so good now I couldn't help taking duplicate photos of the same views.

Fall colors along the river

As I focused on one particularly colorful river scene, a man with his young son walked by, hand in hand.  It was such a cute moment, I couldn't help but include the duo in one of my shots. 

A man and his son walking by

With the sun now high in the sky, the surrounding rock pinnacles reflected nicely in the Crooked River's still waters.  I took so many photos of this scene, it was hard to pick just one for the blog!

Blue skies and reflections

Returning back to the Crooked River pedestrian bridge, I still had a bit of time.  So I decided to take the trail on the river's opposite shore, back in the same direction.

Looking east from the bridge

It's always interesting to see the same scenery from a different vantage point.

Views along the Crooked River

Like this view of the iconic Smith Rock pillar from the east along the river, instead of the image everyone gets looking to the north from the top of the canyon.

Golden weeds

The sagebrush had also changed to it's fall colors, a lovely shade of gold.

Zoomed-in look

It was about this time that my phone buzzed.  A text message from my daughter confirmed she and her husband were now back in the US (they'd traveled to Europe on vacation) and their flight home later that evening was still on time.

The classic view

It had been a wonderful 10 days, getting my doggy fix, and exploring some new and favorite places in fabulous Central Oregon.  Smith Rock State Park is stunning in the fall, and I was fortunate to be able to visit it twice during my stay.

Eagles Nest

Sorry about my long absence from blogland.  I've been having too much fun enjoying my retirement freedom!  I'd rather be skiing or hiking than sitting at the computer recapping my adventures.  So everyone knows I haven't totally disappeared, here's a quick post about an eagles nest I had the good fortune to photograph last week.

Eagle watching her nest (can you spot the eaglet?)

It's well known that every year a pair of bald eagles nest in a lone pine tree at Central Oregon's Smith Rock State Park.  In late March their babies are born.  My neighbor Cheri has been travelling here annually to photograph the young eaglets.

Dinner time!

Last week I happened to be in Bend for a week of skiing.  Taking a break from the slopes due to high winds, I met Cheri and her friend at Smith Rock one day to check out the eagles nest.

Mama feeding her eaglets

I'd recently purchased a new camera - the Canon R6.  And I was also lucky enough to score a used 800mm RF lens.  Time to put my new equipment to work!

Sibling quarrel

We three ladies set up on the cliff rim overlooking the nest.  At first, the mother eagle (I think it was the mother anyway) just sat near the nest and we only got brief glimpses of the eaglet's heads peeking out.  But after a half hour, the mother flew away, and returned shortly with a squirrel in her talons.  Then the action began!

Feeding time for Junior

We watched mesmerized as the mother eagle tore up her catch and began offering pieces of it to her two eaglets.  The eaglets, heeding the call of the dinner bell, emerged from the nest and we could see their bodies fully.  The two babies jockeyed for their mother's beak, opening up their mouths in preparation to be fed.  It was an amazing sight to see.

"Hey, I want some of that!"

The little eaglet's clumsy moves were fun to watch.  They were about 4 weeks old at the time, with oversized beaks and feet in proportion to their fuzzy gray bodies.  The eaglets jostled for feeding position, pecked at each other, and tried to grab food from their sibling.  I spent an enjoyable couple of hours watching their antics.  And my new camera setup?  As you can see, it worked fabulously.

Iconic Smith Rock SP view

Eagle watching done, of course I couldn't leave Smith Rock State Park without capturing a few images of it's stunning scenery.  A great morning well spent in one of Oregon's crown jewels.

Here's a great video that local photographer George Lepp made of the Smith Rock Eagles Nest:  Smith Rock Eagles Nest video.

Winter Trip to Smith Rock

Still on my quest to photograph a snowy Smith Rock State Park, I planned a late February trip to Central Oregon in hopes of catching some white stuff.  En route, I found lots of snow on nearby Santiam Pass.  I even captured a great photo of Mt Washington cloaked in her winter finest.

Not Smith Rock

But...brown, un-snowy scenery greeted me upon my arrival at Smith Rock.  Curses, foiled again!  (Frowny face....)

Classic Smith Rock View

However with scenery this spectacular, one doesn't stay sad for long.  Smith Rock features acres of  unique geologic formations that are amazing in any season.

Mountain view through the gap

It's steep, red rocky cliffs are extremely photogenic.  And they're also popular with the rock-climbing crowd.

Riverside Trail

I started out on my favorite loop that began with a ramble along the Crooked River's banks.  Tall colorful cliffs rose straight up from the river's edge.

Rock climbers

A few hardy rock climbers were already beginning their ascents.  Nothing I'd ever try, but fun to watch.

A bit of red

Ambling along the Crooked River, I was delighted to see a bit of reddish colored bushes lining it's banks.  Accenting the blue water, orange rock reflections, and green trees, it made for a lovely scene.

Golden river bank

Further down the river I spotted a deer dozing in the tall grass.  Slowly I crept closer to her, snapping images as I went.  Finally, the doe deemed me too close for comfort, and rose up to move away.  I noticed she was limping, one hind leg dangling.  Not wanting to distress the doe any further, I backed away.  But looking back for one final glance, I noticed she'd teamed up with another doe, both keeping a close eye on me.

Wildlife sighting

The trail then wound around the back side of Smith Rock's cliffs.  Still following the river I entertained myself by watching the numerous ducks and geese floating in its waters.  And the golden grasses lining the banks made nice photo subjects.


 

More golden grasses

 

Rounding a bend, I got my first look at the famous "Monkey Face" rock formation.  A favorite conquest of rock climbers, the top looks like - you guessed it - a monkey's face.

The Monkey Face

Can you see the resemblance?

Row of mountains

Just past the Monkey Face, I ran into a junction with the Misery Ridge Trail.  This path takes hikers up and over the ridge adjacent to Monkey Face.  After a leisurely flat jaunt along the river, it was time to climb.

Climber attempting the Monkey Face

And on this trail I finally got my wish - these north-facing slopes held final remnants of the last snowstorm.  A bit of white dusted the bushes and wedged into rock crevices.  But, not so nice, any snow on the trail had been beaten down into treacherous, slippery ice.

Peak panorama

Lucky for me, I'd remembered to bring my microspikes.  As I stood contemplating whether to use them on this icy path a man approached, gingerly walking downhill.  He warned me that the trail was ice nearly all the way to the top and very slippery.  That was enough incentive to make me dig those microspikes out of the backpack and slip them over my boots.

Another classic view

It was a good decision.  The microspikes gave me all the traction necessary to safely scale the icy trail.  However, I was surprised by the number of people I encountered going the opposite direction without any kind of traction whatsoever.  It was bad enough trying to hike uphill on ice, I couldn't imagine trying to make my way downhill on shoes alone. 

Rocky spires

This was one trail that rewarded you for your effort.  As I slogged higher, the valley opened up below, with more and more scenery unfolding.  I began to see several Cascade peaks lining the horizon.  Also the checkerboard shapes of farmland and several huge Mcmansions dotted the landscape.

Good name for this trail!

On the ridge's very top a bench was strategically placed.  Good place for a snack break to take in the views.  I glimpsed at the white Cascades peaks jutting up at the border between mountain and plain.  Some of Smith Rock's shorter spires were front and center directly below.  And of course, Monkey Face was now at eye level.

Lame selfie attempt

Climbing now behind me, I removed my microspikes for a relaxed stroll across the top of Misery Ridge.  Traveling to the opposite side, more spectacular views awaited me.

These people need microspikes!

But....so did more slippery, icy trail.  The top portion of the path down the other side was just as ice packed.  I wasn't really keen to go through the trouble of pulling out my microspikes and putting them on once again.  Maybe I could carefully traverse this short patch of trail?

More great vistas

However, watching the people ahead of me trying to navigate this slippery path quickly changed my mind.  I thought to myself  "Why risk injury when you have devices with you to prevent falling?"  Common sense won the day, and I took another break to don microspikes once again.

Red rocks

Although I only needed traction for a short distance, it made the return trip must faster (and safer!).  Once past the ice, it was a quick downhill trek back to the parking area.  Now time to head towards Bend to see my daughter and grand-puppy (who was becoming a huge, but handsome doggy).

And ironically, Central Oregon got walloped with nearly two feet of snow the day after I left.  Had I stuck around there would have been ample opportunities to get my Smith Rock winter photo fix.  Always a day late and a dollar short.... (however with that much snow, I also would've been stuck in Bend!)

Handsome grandpuppy

Hike number 8 in the books!  A wonderful 4.5 mile ramble through one of my favorite state parks. 

Return to Smith Rock

Veterans Day fell on a Friday this year.  That meant a three-day weekend for me.  Time for a road trip!  I'd been itching to get one more Central Oregon jaunt in before ski season, and the opportunity had just presented itself.

The classic view

Not only does one of my brothers live in Bend, but my daughter recently relocated to a nearby town.  Of course it's not like I needed any more reasons to visit this part of Oregon (but it certainly didn't hurt!)

Sagebrush

After a leisurely morning drive over the mountains, I arrived at Smith Rock State Park just shy of noon.  A unique, outstandingly beautiful park, my plan was to spent the afternoon hiking and photographing this special place.

Path by the river

The tall, red spires of Smith Rock State Park stand out like beacons against Central Oregon's barren high desert.  Eroded by the Crooked River from old volcanic deposits, these cliffs attract rock climbers worldwide.  But non-climbers like myself can also enjoy these scenic delights via numerous hiking trails.

This sign marks a climbing route

My plan for the afternoon was to climb the steep trail up Misery Ridge, pass by the Monkey Face (an iconic rock tower) and then complete my 4-mile loop via the River Trail.

Climbing Misery Ridge

Today's holiday meant the park was swarming with visitors.  Hikers filled trails and climbers dotted adjcent rock faces.  Despite the crowds, I was happy to be here.  One of my favorite state parks, I gleefully followed a path from the parking lot that took me to the first classic viewpoint.  And it was breathtaking.

View from on top

Orange rock walls rose vertically from the desert floor.  Framed on three sides, the Crooked River made a lazy bend through the very middle.  Although cloudy skies muted colors, it was still a sight to behold.

Approaching the Monkey Face

I followed an extremely steep trail down to the canyon's bottom.  A fancy footbridge crossing the Crooked River put me at the foot of the Misery Ridge Trail.  Here I could either follow the river, or go straight up the ridge.  Wishing to get the climb over with, I chose the latter.

Climbers on the Monkey Face

They call it Misery Ridge for a reason - and it didn't take me long to realize why.  The path switchbacked relentlessly up the steep canyon wall.  Huffing and puffing, I took liberal amounts of photo (aka "rest") breaks.

Climbers on an adjacent wall

Luckily, the photos ops were numerous.  The higher I ascended, the more the canyon below opened up, and the greater the views.

Farmlands and mountains

After a half mile or so of climbing, the path finally leveled out.  I'd reached the top of the ridge.  A gravelly trail took me across this high plateau to the opposite side, for more killer views.  All of Central Oregon's mountains stretched across the horizon.

The climbers were fun to watch

And, rising above the very clifftops I saw the famous "Monkey Face" - a slender rock pillar who's top indeed resembled a monkey's facial features.

Monkey Face pano

Front and center was a group of three climbers attempting to scale the Monkey Face's near-vertical wall.  Mesmerized, I sat and watched them slowly crawl higher.

Heading back down Mesa Verde Trail

The climbers were fascinating to watch!  To me, scaling such a tall rock wall seemed totally impossible.  But these folks made it look like a walk in the park.

Final glimpse of the mountains

Finally getting my fill of rock climbing, I traversed across the rest of the ridgetop, locating the Mesa Verde Trail, my path back down to the river.  Another descent, another set of spectacular Central Oregon views.  Green pastures bookended by large country estates and scruffy pine forests.  And more glimpses of those wonderful Cascade peaks.

Can you see the monkey face?

Looking up from Monkey Face's base gives one a very good indication how this formation got it's name.

Unique rock art

Ahhh....after a tough climb there's nothing I appreciate more than a good downhill ramble.  Descending down the windy trail, I got a bit of smug satisfaction watching all the uphill hikers gasping and struggling. 

Loved the trail signs

I passed by an area where tons of tiny rocks had been stacked and crammed into small crannies.  Not sure what it was all about, but made for some interesting photos.

Crooked River

Finally, reaching river level, I stopped for a moment to soak in the lovely riverbank and admire some geese swimming by.

Trail through the grass and sagebrush

But the clouds threatened rain, and late afternoon darkness was beginning to descend, so I knew it was time to hustle.  Many other hikers had also noted the fading light, and I suddenly found myself in a conga-line of people, all heading to the parking lot.

Lots of color on the riverbank

But Smith Rock saved one final great view for my camera.  Rounding a river bend, I gasped in delight at the colorful fall hues lining it's banks.  Adjacent rocky cliffs reflected perfectly in the river's still waters.  Time to step out of line - I needed to capture this!

Well maintained trail

The sun was setting fast, and I'd hoped for one final chance to photograph some of the cliffs along the Wolf Tree Trail, just beyond the sturdy Crooked River bridge.  Hustling down the path, I hoped the light would last a few more minutes.

Day is fading fast

I grabbed a shot of the footbridge, framed by golden sagebrush, and the cliffs rising beyond.  Although fighting dull light, I still kind of liked the images that were captured.

Weathered tree and sagebrush

I came across a downed, weathered tree surrounded by numerous golden sagebrush tufts.  Although I'd come to photograph Smith Rock's scenic orange cliffs, this photo ended up being one of my favorites from the day.

Final evening light on the cliffs

I arrived at the last viewpoint with just enough time to catch the sun's final rays as they weakly illuminated the nearby spires.  Although not exactly what I'd hoped to capture, it was a delight to stand by the river's edge and watch the last light of day fade away.

Now....on to Redmond for dinner!

(Stay tuned for day two..............)