(A multi-part recap of my mid-April to early May Italy trip.)
After spending a rather stuffy night in our Siena hotel, my friend Kim and I awoke and headed to breakfast. While at breakfast, Kim mentioned to me she was going to have a chat with our main guide (MG) this morning about her dietary restrictions.
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| Our tour group, waiting on the steps of the hotel |
As I've mentioned in previous posts, Kim happens to have several food intolerances, and she'd been having a tough time getting this across to our tour's MG. Not only was our MG not announcing the menu items ahead of group dinners, she was also forgetting Kim's specific dietary restrictions - which had resulted at least one close call. Because ingesting any of these restricted items would make Kim sick, she was quite worried about our MG's lack of oversight.
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| Steve and Cyndy, tour friends from Canada with Lotti |
When our MG entered the hotel's breakfast room, Kim walked over and sat down at her table. After conversing for a few minutes, Kim abruptly returned to where Debbie and I were sitting. The chat did not go well at all. The MG become extremely defensive, at first denying there was any problem. Then our MG actually had the audacity to use "Well, I can't tell you and Linda apart" as her excuse. Hello? This was a basic part of her job to know everyone in the tour! And we were on day 12 - even I knew all the names of my tour-mates by then. AND - Kim and I look nothing alike. Debbie and I couldn't believe how unprofessionally our MG had acted. Aghast, Kim decided that from now on she'd take matters into her own hands, and query the servers on meal ingredients herself.
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| Off through the streets of Siena! |
Putting this unpleasant conversation aside, after breakfast Kim, Debbie, and I met our tour group on the hotel steps. The front area of our Siena hotel was beautifully landscaped with all sorts of trees, plants, and flowers. There was an ample amount of benches where one could sit and admire the beauty. To pass the time, we soaked in the ambiance, and chatted with our fellow tour-mates. Once everyone was gathered together, we followed MG off through the streets of Siena (although we three ladies kept our distance.) First up we were meeting a local stained glass craftsman for a demonstration on how he made his lovely works of art.
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| Mossimo, giving us a stained glass demonstration |
Off a narrow alley sat the stained glass workshop. Upon entering the building, we were introduced to Mossimo, the man responsible for creating the beautiful windows that graced churches everywhere. Mossimo had been doing his craft for many, many years, and was now sought out worldwide for his expertise.
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| Church window example |
Mossimo was a wonderful speaker. Detailed, charming, with a wonderful sense of humor, he delved into the nitty gritty about how he made these amazing stained glass windows come to life.
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| Showing us the glass that is used |
The first step was to have an artist sketch the desired scene. Mossimo employed someone to do this work. After the mock up was done, Mossimo said he picked out the stained glass colors from his inventory. He led us into his workroom, dominated by a large table and bookended by a shelf on one side full of colored glass.
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| Facial details are painted on the glass |
Then, Mossismo very carefully cut the pieces needed for the artwork and arranged them on a board.
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| Mossimo demonstrates |
After the glass pieces had been placed in the desired pattern, Mossimo then took strips of lead and cut them to fit between the different colored glass parts of the image.
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| Another stained glass window mock-up |
One thing I learned from this demonstration that I'd never really thought about - the facial features of people depicted on stained glass artwork is painted onto the glass itself. In another room, Mossimo showed us his collection of brushes and paint to complete the process. Again, he employed the talent of a local artist to do this work.
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| Look at the the colorful glass in the shelves! |
Back in the main workroom, Mossimo showed us that the lead strips he uses to connect the glass pieces together have slots on both sides, so the glass is slid into place. It looked like a delicate and time-consuming process!
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| Showing us how lead is used to fuse the glass together |
Although stained glass windows depicting religious scenes comprised most of his work, Mossimo said he also created artwork for many other places, including private homes and art galleries. He sold small stained glass items, such as wall hangings and ornaments, in the front room of his shop. After seeing the painstaking work that goes into creating these beautiful stained glass masterpieces, I now had a new appreciation for every church window I saw.
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| A real life example |
Everyone enjoyed the presentation, especially Mossimo's cheerful explanations and deadpan humor. However, my friends and I noticed our MG was especially chummy with this stained glass craftsman. Upon our arrival she'd given Mossimo a great big hug and all through the presentation kept flirting with him. She obviously knew him from prior tours, but how good of friends were they? Something to ponder (and gossip about) as we bid Mossimo arrivederci and headed back onto the streets of Siena.
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| So detailed! |
From the stained glass workshop, our group wound through the narrow alleys of Siena until we were adjacent to Il Campo. MG told us we had about 15 minutes to grab a drink or use the WC before our next engagement.
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| Walking under more archways |
While most of the group hit the nearby shops for water, I decided to get some photos from a local viewpoint we'd passed earlier. The morning light had illuminated a large cathedral atop a hill, and I just had to get some photos. So I hustled back through the crowded city streets to find it back. The viewpoint was where I remembered and the large cathedral had a commanding position above the city rooftops. In the morning light, it looked absolutely glorious.
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| Basilica di San Francesco |
I later discovered this beautiful golden brown cathedral was the Basilica di San Francesco. One of the most important churches in Siena, it was built in the 13th century. It's claim to fame came in 1730, when a vessel containing 351 consecrated hosts was stolen from the basilica. The hosts were later found, however upon opening the box it was discovered that the hosts, now covered with dust and cobwebs, could not be consumed. The hosts were returned to the basilica, and placed in sealed box for 30 years. After this time, when the box was reopened it was discovered the hosts were now whole and intact. After 280 years, these hosts are still intact, despite the fact that they should've been reduced to dust and pulp within two years.
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| Closer look at the basilica |
After shooting several images of this lovely basilica, I rushed back to the Il Campo to join my friends, who were huddled against a building wall trying to shield themselves from the wind (it was quite a breezy day!)
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| Trying to stay out of the wind |
Then it was time to meet up with our local guide from the day before to get a tour of Siena's most famous church of all - the magnificent Duomo.
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| Even in Italy, they have dollar (or euro) stores |
Back through Siena's streets our group went, passing by a touristy shopping district. On the way, we passed by a 99 cent store. It was surprising to see that even in Italy they have discount dollar (or euro) stores! I wish there would've been time to peek inside and see what type of items they carried.
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| Siena Cathedral (or Duomo) |
But our tour had a schedule to keep - and a Duomo to see! After walking along several busy thoroughfares, the group turned a corner and my eyes were met with a enormous white marble structure rising from street level. A tall, striped bell tower anchored one side. This magnificent building was the Siena Cathedral, or Duomo, as it was known to the locals.
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| Striped bell tower |
In the 13th century, Siena and nearby Florence were rival cities. After Florence began construction of its grand cathedral, Siena decided to build an even bigger structure. Siena's main cathedral was built between 1215 and 1263. To keep up with Florence, Siena city leaders had grand plans to expand this church even more, but in 1348 the Black Death halted all construction, and the cathedral expansion remained unfinished.
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| The Cathedral's grand entrance |
Although the Siena Duomo might have been smaller than Florence's, its front facade was fabulously ornate. It was crammed with all kinds of carved marble sculptures, depicting famous religious figures. The arched entryways were lined with frilly Gothic trim, also of carved marble. Although the marble was mostly bright white, there were accents of different colored marble throughout. A grand staircase of marble (what else?) led visitors up to the Duomo's front doors.
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| The facade was filled with sculptures |
What a wondrous mixture of flashy decor! My eyes and camera were kept busy just trying to capture everything.
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| Cathedral dome peeking behind the roofline |
Looking past the entrance towards the Duomo's rear, I spotted the 6-story striped bell tower (built in 1315.) A large dome loomed above the cathedral roof, topped with a gold lantern.
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| The inside was spectacular! |
After an appropriate amount of gawking at this fantastic facade, it was time to enter the Duomo and check out its inner chapel. Unlike the Florence cathedral's spartan interior, Siena's Duomo was even more ornate inside than out.
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| Inside selfie |
Oh my what a feast for the eyes! The cathedral's main aisle was lined with tall columns of striped black and white marble, black and white representing the colors of Siena's coat of arms. Colorful flags from each of the 17 contrade (Siena neighborhoods) hung from the columns. Beautiful side altars branched out from the main aisle, each loaded with sculptures and paintings. And high above the archways were several domed ceilings, lavishly decorated. Round stained glass windows anchored both ends of the cathedral.
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| Beams of light coming through the upper windows |
Our local guide had everyone take a seat in a row of pews, and began explaining the history and pointing out some of the artwork in the Duomo. But so transfixed by the sheer amount of grandeur surrounding me, I only heard about a quarter of what she said.
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| Artwork covered every square inch |
After sitting for way too long (in my opinion) our tour group was released to explore this amazing, art-filled cathedral. There were so many paintings and sculptures here, some created by famous artists, I didn't even know where to start.
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| Crucifix |
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| Amazing paintings were everywhere |
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| Huge marble side altar |
This enormous side altar, made entirely of white marble, was one of my favorites.
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| The inner dome was beautiful |
I loved this inner dome, decorated with panels of shining stars. And believe me, it was way more impressive in person.
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| St. Jerome sculpture by Bernini |
This particular sculpture was created by the artist Gian Lorenzo Bernini, a very famous Italian Baroque sculptor. It depicted St. Jerome cradling the crucifix, his expression one of spiritual ecstasy.
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| Another intricately decorated dome |
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| Contrade flags hung along the main aisle |
From near the top of the cathedral ceiling, beams of light streamed through side windows, making for some interesting photo ops.
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| Spectacular arches |
I loved all the ornate embellishments decorating the interior archways.
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| This side altar was dedicated to the Virgin Mary |
The Siena cathedral was dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (a belief that Mary was taken body and soul directly into heaven at the end of her earthly life.) In keeping with Siena's devotions, one of the cathedral's side altars was dedicated solely to the Virgin Mary (called Chapel of the Madonna del Voto.) There was another Bernini sculpture on the Virgin Mary off to one side of the altar.
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| Another beautiful painting |
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| Giant pipe organ |
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| Stained glass windows |
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| Ornately carved pulpit |
A fantastically sculpted pulpit of Carrara marble adorned the main altar area. Seven panels surrounding the pulpit told the life of Jesus in stunning detail.
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| St. John the Baptist sculpture by Donatello |
In one side chapel stood a rugged bronze sculpture of St. John the Baptist. This particular work of art was created by the famous artist Donatello. In a cathedral full of smooth, marble sculptures, this rough metal casting seemed out of place.
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| Some of the marble was absolutely stunning |
Although I didn't include any photographs, the floor of the Siena Duomo was made entirely of inlaid marble. The floor included 56 panels, each depicting either scenes from the Old Testament or figures from the ancient world. The inlaid marble was of many colors, and it was quite interesting to see so many different patterns and hues (I had no idea marble was so beautiful and colorful!) One area of the cathedral also had tall columns of orange-rust patterned marble.
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| This gives an idea of the inside height |
Of the many grand cathedrals and churches I'd seen so far in Italy, the Siena Duomo ranked right near the top for the amount of beautiful artwork. It was absolutely stunning!
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| The outer facade in better light |
After exploring nearly every inch of the Duomo's interior, Kim, Debbie and I returned outside for another look at its amazing grand entrance.
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| More outside details |
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| So many sculptures! |
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| Selfie time! |
Then, the time being well past noon, we all agreed it was time to find someplace to get lunch. So off we went, through the streets of Siena once again.
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| Contrade flags |
We passed by several souvenir shops, their colorful wares displayed on outdoor shelves. I especially loved the beautiful ceramic plates with whimsical Tuscan scenes. I would've loved to purchase one, but with only a small suitcase had no way to safely get it home.
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| Nearby shops displaying beautiful ceramics |
After being distracted by all the beautiful artwork, we ladies returned to the task at hand - finding someplace to eat. We walked all the way back to Il Campo, before finally choosing one of the many restaurants lining the plaza. I'm sure we paid premium prices for eating by the main tourist attraction in town, but at this point we were too hungry to care.
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| Looking for a lunch spot |
After another delicious ham pizza with a birra (beer) I was refreshed and ready to explore more of Siena.
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| Pizza for the win! |
Our restaurant had a black and white wide-angle photograph of the Campo square during the Palio race day hanging on one wall. Oh my, what a crowd of people! I didn't want to be anywhere near Siena when this was going on.
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| Photograph of the Palio race in our restaurant |
With a few more hours of the afternoon to kill, my friends and I decided to check out the Basilica of San Domenico, which conveniently happened to be just a block away from our hotel.
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| Outside the Basilica of San Domenico |
This basilica was famous for housing the head and finger of St. Catherine of Siena, one of Italy's two patron saints. Alive in the mid-1300's, St. Catherine was an Italian diplomat who engaged in extensive letter-writing and advocacy for the Catholic church. She influenced Pope Gregory XI on many matters, including his move to Rome.
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| St. Catherine's relics were inside this church |
When Catherine died, she happened to be in Rome. The people of Siena requested that Catherine's body be returned to her home city, but Roman officials refused. So as legend goes, some of her followers journeyed to Rome to steal her body back. When these followers found they couldn't transport her entire body, they took only Catherine's head and one finger. These relics have been displayed in the Basilica of San Domenico ever since.
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One of the plainer churches I'd visited in Italy
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Upon entering this church, I noticed signs on the doors stating photographs were prohibited. However, once inside, I noticed many people with their cell phones out snapping away. Nobody seemed to be stopping them, so I grabbed a few images myself. This basilica was a rather plain church, so I didn't take very many shots. However, I was scolded by one of the staff after he caught me using my phone camera, so after that I pocketed it. Although I wasn't keen on looking at some dead woman's head, Kim, Debbie and I ended up viewing it anyway. It was as creepy as you would imagine - and I don't feel the need to ever see it again. I was quite disappointed to observe many other tourists with their phones out taking photos of St. Catherine's head, even though there were several obvious signs stating that no photographs were allowed (where was that staff member who chided me for taking pictures?)
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| Outside dining area with a view |
After touring St. Catherine's church, my friends and I were tired and thirsty so we headed back to the hotel for happy hour. Although a bit old and shabby, our hotel did have a nice patio area. We asked the front deskman for their drink menu and he offered to sell Debbie and I a partial bottle of prosecco at a discount. We decided, why not? Kim got a bottle of Italian birra, and we had ourselves a little party on the patio. Nearby, tour-mates Tom and Val had opened several bottles of wine and were sharing their vino with some of the other folks from our tour. They invited us to join in the party. My friends and I enjoyed a spirited hour with our tour group until the hot afternoon sun forced us to retreat back into the hotel.
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Happy hour on our hotel's patio
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Tonight we were on our own for dinner. Where should we go? My friends and I consulted both our guidebook and Google maps but no one could make up their minds. Finally I located a highly rated restaurant on google and suggested we go eat there.
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| Goose contrade sign |
So off my friends went, back through the street of Siena one last time looking for the restaurant. While walking along, we three ladies got a glimpse of MG and Mossimo heading somewhere for dinner together. Hmmmm.......More gossip fodder. (After MG's treatment of Kim this morning, we were all feeling a bit catty!)
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| Dinner at an adorable local cafe |
The restaurant I'd chosen turned out to be closed, so I had to find a plan B. Wandering towards another street where Google showed a few restaurants, we stopped beside a tiny cafe. Looking over the menu, the place seemed to have the type of food we wanted, and the prices were reasonable. Everyone agreed to try the place.
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| The spaghetti and meatballs were delicious! |
This restaurant turned out to be an absolute gem! It was a small place, with cute red-checkered tablecloths. The woman running the place was friendly, our drinks came quickly, and the food was heavenly. I ordered a delicious bowl of spaghetti and meatballs. And I just couldn't resist trying another tiramisu for dessert (gotta sample them all over Italy!)
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| Gotta have some tiramisu for dessert |
While eating, my friends and I kept hearing soft barking noises. Turns out the woman who ran the place had her small dog behind the counter. From where Debbie was sitting, she could see the adorable pup. It just made the place all the more charming. It appeared the customers were mostly locals so my friends and I knew we'd found a good place. We sipped our wine (or beer), ate our pasta, and soaked in the ambiance. Another memorable night in Italy!
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| Cafe interior |
Tummies full, it was time to wander back to our hotel for some shut-eye. Tomorrow our tour was on the road once again, this time bound for the town of Assisi before ending up at a countryside resort hotel in Umbria for a couple days of R 'n R. So be sure to check back for my next post as my Italian trip continues!
