Ape Canyon

Are there really apes in Ape Canyon?  (Inquiring minds want to know!)

Over the many times I've hiked here, no apes have ever been spotted.  But I do know if you want to get some great views of Mt. St. Helens, travel through a spectacular old-growth forest spared from the eruption, and in July see a great wildflower show, then the Ape Canyon trail is for you.

Young admiring the big trees

In mid-July a desolate pumice plain on the SE side of Mt. St. Helens called the "Plains of Abraham" erupts into a purple frenzy thanks to huge amounts of lupine and penstemon wildflowers.  The best way to reach this flowerful place is via the Ape Canyon trail.  One needs to climb 5 miles up Ape Canyon to rendezvous with the round-the-mountain Loowit Trail.  Then there's another mile or so on the Loowit to reach this stark, but beautiful area.

Hoping to catch the wildflower show on the Plains of Abraham, I invited my hiking buddy Young to join me for a trek up Ape Canyon.  Although it was near the end of July, I hoped that the flowers were still going strong.  One way to find out!

First mountain viewpoint

Driving to the trailhead proved to be a bit of an adventure, due to a recent road wash-out.  But luckily Young drives a sturdy truck which traversed the damaged road no problem.  We found cloudy skies and cool temperatures at the base of Ape Canyon.  Although there were zero mountain views, after weeks of enduring unseasonably hot weather today's chilly temps were just fine with us.

Trailside wildflowers

To start out, the Ape Canyon trail followed a cliff overlooking a huge lahar.  This barren floodplain was created from a flow of mud and rock down the Muddy River, unleashed during the 1980 eruption.  However the adjacent forest, which we were now hiking through, was somehow spared from the eruption's damage.  The first mile and half wound through second-growth forest, logged many years ago.  Beyond this point, we entered an area of untouched old-growth woods.  Young and I gaped at the huge fir and cedar trees lining our path.  The trail climbed steadily uphill, gaining 2500 feet over the course of 5 miles.

Approaching the Loowit trail junction

The only drawback to hiking this trail is that it's shared with mountain bikers.  Although all the bikers I've encountered here have always been polite, the threat of encountering one speeding downhill keeps me on edge.  Today just a mile up the trail my fears were realized when we had a near run-in with a downhill bike rider.   A young man unexpectedly whipped around a corner and nearly hit us.  Young and I scrambled off the trail in record time.  (I may have also screamed.)  The biker slammed on his brakes and immediately apologized.  He said since he hadn't seen any hikers thus far that day, he wasn't being very diligent in looking out for them.  The guy was so nice about the incident, we told him "no harm, no foul" before parting ways.

Desolate, but beautiful

As the morning wore on, the clouds surrounding MSH started to lift.  When Young and I reached the first viewpoint, about 3.5 miles up, we could now see the mountain's base.  That was encouraging!

Nice flower patch near a spring

About 4 miles along the Ape Canyon trail, the forest receded and we entered the desolate blast zone.  Climbing towards the Loowit Trail intersection, the green Ape Canyon narrowed down into a slot chasm.  A few wildflowers bloomed along the trail, but not in huge numbers.

Made it to the Windy - Loowit junction

After a long climb, the sign marking the Loowit Trail junction was a welcome sight.  From here, Young and I then headed eastward, now following the Loowit Trail, hoping we'd spot some wildflowers soon.

Reading the trail signs

About 3/4 mile from the Loowit - Ape Canyon junction, my friend and I passed a wet area where a small spring bubbled out of the earth.  On the side of a small rise was a nice patch of lupine and orange Indian paintbrush.  The best display of wildflowers thus far, I put my camera to work. 

MSH was starting to emerge

Just beyond the colorful wildflower patch, Young and I stopped at an overlook for lunch.  On a clear day, one can see Mt. Hood and Adams from atop this rocky cliff.  But today clouds obscured most of the views.  No matter, we were hungry and were happy for the nice rest area.  However, the wind began to blow and chilled us so much that Young and I donned our jackets and hoods to stay warm.  After hiking in heat most of the summer thus far, it felt strange to be cold again.

Purple wildflowers lined the trail

Bellies now satisfied, we continued our journey eastward in search of the wildflower bloom.  However, traveling from the spring area we came upon the Plains of Abraham proper and there were hardly any flowers, just a desolate stretch of gray pumice.  It appeared we were too late.  I recognized numerous dried-up penstemon blooms spread out along the landscape.  The unseasonably early hot weather appeared to have already baked most of the wildflowers.

We spotted a mama grouse

Although disappointed to miss the peak bloom, Young and I continued on towards the junction of the Loowit and Abraham Trails.  Happily, there was a bit of lupine still flowering, so I wasn't totally skunked in the wildflower department.  And although the wind kept things chilly, the clouds were lifting and we could now see quite a bit of Mt. St. Helens.

Back through the flower garden

Young and I made it to the Loowit-Abraham junction.  We took a few pictures of the stark landscape, and marveled at the far-reaching views.  But because it was still quite cold, we didn't linger long.  After about five minutes of gawking my friend and I turned around to retrace our steps back to Ape Canyon.

Best wildflower patch of the hike

Sometimes one sees mountain goats on the hills adjacent to the Loowit Trail.  I'd carried my zoom lens in hopes of getting some photos of these majestic creatures.  But I was skunked here too.  The only wildlife sighting we had for the day was a mama grouse as we were coming back through the spring area.  The grouse had a chick hiding in a nearby bush, and she kept distracting us by walking down the trail, hoping to lead us away from her young one.  I never managed to get a photo of the baby, but I did get a few great images of its mother.

Another photo of the flower patch - just because!

About the time Young and I walked back through the large wildflower patch, the mountain had emerged from the morning's clouds and was in full view.  Perfect timing because now I could get flower photos with MSH in the background.  Which is exactly what I did.  Then we headed towards the Loowit Junction, and back down Ape Canyon.

Mt Adams view at the upper start of Ape Canyon

Our day ended with a happy surprise when Young and I ran into old hiking friends John and Dorene as we descended the Ape Canyon trail.  We hiked together for the final two miles and had a great time catching up.  Our total distance came to 13 miles, so I was thankful for the engrossing conversations to distract me from my tired legs and feet.

Ran into some old hiking friends!

In case you were wondering why a canyon in SW Washington has such an unlikely name, here is the reason:  In the summer of 1924, a group of gold prospectors in the area claimed that 7 foot tall ape-like creatures attacked them with boulders.  According to the tale, the miners came across the animals in the forest and a man in their group shot one of the animals three times.  The wounded ape-like creature toppled off a cliff into an inaccessible canyon.  Later, the "ape-men" returned to the prospector's cabin, bombarded it with stones, and left gigantic footprints in the dust.  The story created a local sensation.  Forest Service rangers investigated the men's claims, but found nothing to substantiate their story.  Despite zero evidence, the legend persisted and continued to spread in later years. 

Who knows?  Maybe Sasquatch does live in the woods nearby.  Anyway, I think it's kind of a fun tale. 

Making Friends on Mt. St. Helens

One of my favorite places to hike is at Washington State's Mt. St. Helens.  It's such a fascinating place - where else can you see the aftermath of an enormous volcanic eruption and witness the recovery of its surrounding area?  If you've followed my blog for any length of time, you have probably read posts from many of my hikes around this famous mountain.

In late spring, I always plan a visit to the mountain's north side to check out the wildflowers and look for wildlife.  Recent online hiking posts had mentioned numerous mountain goat sightings near Johnston Ridge.  Eager to see (and photograph, of course) the goats for myself, I rose early one late May morning for the long drive to the Hummocks Trailhead.

MSH in early morning light

Mountain weather is always unpredictable, and today was no exception.  Although the forecast called for sunny skies, as I drove the long highway to Coldwater Lake, my car was enveloped in a thick bank of fog.  There were no other vehicles on the road at this early hour, so I wasn't too worried.  Or so I thought - about 20 miles from my destination I came upon a pickup driving a bit slower than the speed limit.  There being no passing lanes, I had to tuck behind the vehicle and putz along.

A few Indian paintbrush were blooming

I told myself there wasn't any hurry, but it's always a bit frustrating to follow a vehicle that's traveling slower than you want to go.  Finally, a passing lane came into view and I sped past the slow truck.  I drove along through the thick fog, hoping no wildlife would pop into the road.  I did scare a bald eagle off of a deer carcass - that was exciting!

As the road climbed in elevation, the fog settled in the valleys, and surrounding mountains began to appear.  I spied Mt. St. Helens' deflated summit and smiled in joy.  I'd see her after all!  Then a sign indicated an overlook.  A fog-shrouded MSH summit?  Well, of course I had to stop for the photographic opportunities.

MSH slowly emerging from the fog

A lone car was parked at the overlook, its occupant a young man who was outside cooking his breakfast over a backpacking stove.  It appeared he'd slept in his car overnight, an observation verified when I said hello and we began to chat.  As I clicked away at the mountain, we both exclaimed at the wonderful view of MSH coming out of her foggy prison.  The man said he'd gotten some great nighttime photos of the mountain with the milky way as a backdrop.  I was instantly awed and jealous.

However, my pit stop at the overlook cost me my lead over the slow pickup.  As I readied myself to pull out of the parking area, the pickup passed by.  Again I was back in the rear position, eating its exhaust.  Good thing the trailhead wasn't far now!

Mountain peek-a-boo

As the road wound downhill, I was again enveloped in the thick fog.  The pickup ahead continued on the same course, and ended up turning into the Hummocks Trailhead, the same destination as me.  Emerging from my car, a man and woman from the pickup walked over to where I was parked.  The woman asked if I was hiking the Boundary Trail to Johnston Ridge, and if I was, could she join me?

Apparently, the woman's husband wasn't interested in hiking that far and she didn't want to hike alone.  Always one to enjoy company on the trail, I said "of course!"  The lady introduced herself as Linda - we then both had a good chuckle when I told her that was my name too.

Almost clear!

Linda's grown son was going to meet her here - but he was running late and planned to catch his mom on the trail.  So after donning my boots and eating a second-breakfast granola bar, I was ready to go.  My new hiking companion and I began our adventure from a very foggy Hummocks Trailhead.  The fog was so thick, it hid all the nearby scenery.  With both of us in search of mountain (and mountain goat) views, we both hoped it would dissipate as the day went on.

Wonderful views from the trail

Chatting as my new friend and I walked along, I discovered we had much in common.  Linda was a few years older than me, loved hiking, and was a member of a local outdoor group in her hometown.  She also was in to plants and birds, and could identify most of the local flora we passed by.  Unlike me, she loved backpacking and usually completed several trips over the summer.  

Red currant was blooming

It didn't take long for Linda's son to catch up to us.  He was a nice man, and it was heartwarming to see a son that loved to hike with his mother.  Our now band of three began climbing the Boundary Trail out of the flat Toutle River valley.  The higher we rose, the thinner the clouds became, and the mountain began giving us a few peek-a-boo views.  Finally, rounding a bend in the trail, MSH emerged from the fog in a most dramatic fashion.  Made for some wonderful images!

Panoramic viewpoint

A little over 2 miles in we came upon an impressive overlook.  The trail wandered onto a ridge, providing breathtaking front-and-center views of MSH.  Lucky for us, the fog was nearly gone by that time.  We took a short break to take photos and enjoy the scene.

My new friends take in the scenery

Another thing Linda and I had in common - we'd chosen to hike this particular trail in hopes of seeing mountain goats.  Both of us had read the same online trip reports, and seen the numerous goat photos posted by other hikers.  As we rounded another bend, Johnston Ridge and the visitor center came into view across a large valley.  Linda noticed a few tiny white dots on the slope directly below Johnston Ridge.  With the aid of her binoculars, she confirmed that the dots were mountain goats.

Mountain goat!

Although it was exciting to see the mountain goats, I wished that they were a bit closer.  Even with my 400mm zoom lens, they were too far away to get decent images.  However, the trail would take us closer to the slopes where they were sitting, so my friend and I hoped we'd get some better views.

Mama goat with baby hidden in bushes to the left

Onward we trekked.  Our group of three passed by the Loowit Viewpoint, where Linda and I scanned the hillsides for closer goats.  Linda's son decided to press on to Johnston Ridge Observatory, while we ladies chose to take a more leisurely pace.  After parting ways temporarily with her son, Linda and I continued walking towards Johnston Ridge.  We hadn't traveled far when she spotted several mountain goats on the slope ahead directly below the trail.  Although we couldn't get good photographs at our present location, there appeared to be a good viewing opportunity up the trail.

Another goat checking us out

Passing over a high spot on the trail that blocked all views of the mountain goats, we descended and rounded a bend and came upon a nice overlook with the goats in clear sight.  A young man with a long camera lens was set up here.  Approaching the photographer, I recognized him as the car camper I'd met at the viewpoint that morning.  Small world!

Linda, the young man, and I hung out for a bit, taking copious photos of the goats.  There were three adults.  Two of the adults were mama goats, with their tiny babies hidden in the nearby bushes.  The third goat was a single, resting in the shadow of a small rock face.  It was amazing to see these shaggy, white beasts at a close (but safe) distance.

Golden-mantled ground squirrel

After a few minutes, Linda decided to continue on to the observatory and catch up with her son.  Hoping that the goats would start moving around, I elected to stay put.  The young man also initially stayed, but after another five minutes, he too decided to head for Johnston Ridge.  I waited a bit longer, but after several minutes with no goat movement, I decided those guys weren't going anywhere soon.  Time to move on.

Mountain bluebird

I hadn't traveled far when I met Linda and her son coming in the opposite direction.  They were heading back to the trailhead - she had to be home by a certain time.  I was sorry to part ways with my new trail buddy so soon.  But before saying our goodbyes, I made sure to exchange contact information and friended her on Facebook.  Linda, it was great to hike with you!  Hopefully our trails will cross again in the future.

Goats resting below Johnston Ridge

I continued on to the Johnston Ridge Observatory.  Normally, this visitor's center is open by Mother's Day weekend.  However, a huge landslide took out the entrance road last spring and it had been closed ever since.  When the landslide happened, it stranded several visitors and their vehicles - the people had to be rescued by helicopter.  (You can read more about the landslide here)  It was a bit sad to see the shuttered visitor's center and have the entire viewing area to myself.  However, I wasn't quite all alone - the young man I'd met in the early morning hours was also here, camera in hand, watching another small group of mountain goats directly below.

 

Mother goat giving me the stink eye

I had another great conversation with the young man.  I learned he was a wildlife biologist, currently traveling between jobs.  He gave me a card with his website - which I'm now following.  It's called "A Woods Walk Photography" ( https://www.awoodswalk.com/) and you can sign up for his monthly newsletter.

Not only did we spot more mountain goats, the man also pointed out a mountain bluebird perched on a nearby tree.  It's handy to hang out with someone who watches wild animals for a living!

Afternoon clouds over the mountain

After lunch, more wildlife viewing, and a bit more great conversation, the young man bid me goodbye and headed further up the trail.  Since the observatory was my turn-around point, I began retracing my steps back to the trailhead.   

Wonderful views on the return trip

After hiking with people all morning, my return trip was a bit lonely.  The only stop I made was to check out the mountain goats between Johnston Ridge and Loowit Viewpoint.  The three goats were all in the same spots, however, one of the babies was now out in the open.  I snapped a few images of the cute little kid, while mama goat gave me the stink-eye.  By early afternoon, the fog had entirely cleared and I enjoyed wide-open vistas and slopes full of wild strawberry flowers as I rambled downhill.

Wild strawberry blooms lined the trail

Another great hike in the Mt. St. Helens area!  Not only did I enjoy dramatic, foggy scenery, I also got to see some mountain goats.  And I met three nice people - Linda, her son, and the young wildlife biologist.  A wonderful day indeed!

St. Helens Superbloom

 The things we photographers do to get the shot.

First views

Back in mid-July photos began circulating on some of my online hiking groups of a massive lupine superbloom on Mt. St. Helens' east side, near Windy Ridge.  Images of entire slopes colored purple with flowers got my attention.  Such prolific wildflower blooms don't come around very often, so naturally I wanted to go there and capture some photographs for myself.

Lupine fills the plain, except in the tire tracks

But the problem was reaching this side of MSH required a long drive.  The usual route from Portland, approaching from the south, was closed due to a large landslide on one of the Forest Service roads.  That meant anyone who wanted to travel here had to take a circuitous path.  I'd need to drive further north and then east to the Washington town of Randle, and then head south towards the Windy Ridge Trailhead.  Google maps estimated this would take 3 1/2 hours.

Paintbrush was thick here

The long drive made me hesitate.  Gas was expensive, and I'd need to find someplace to camp overnight if I went.  Seven hours round-trip was too much time to spend in the car.  Over the next two days I vacillated between wanting to go see the superbloom but not wanting to be in the car for so long.

A little flower garden

However, the lupine bloom photos continued to show up on my Facebook feed until finally I caved.  I couldn't miss this rare event!  Devising a plan to travel there after a morning doctor appointment, in order to break up the long drive, I decided to sleep overnight in my car.  

Paintbrush, up close and personal

So on a hot, sunny July mid-morning I started out from home towards Mt. St. Helens and that amazing wildflower show.  Along the way I ended up being delayed by not one, but two construction zones, pushing my drive time closer to four hours.  Finally at 3 pm I rolled into the parking area at Windy Ridge.  Access to the superbloom meant hiking from here to access a loop connecting the Boundary and Truman Trails near the mountain's north side.  Did I have enough time to hike the 9-mile round trip?  Or should I wait until tomorrow morning to visit the flower fields?

Spirit Lake (that red dot in the middle is a person)

Well, sunset wasn't until nearly 9 pm.  I had a headlamp and flashlight in my backpack.  And I could cover two miles in an hour (without photo stops, that is.)  I'd driven all this way, and didn't want to wait until morning.  So I decided to go for it.  

The beginning of the superbloom

So off I went, hustling down the 2-mile gravel road to access the flower trails.  Although it was a warm mid-afternoon I covered the boring road walk relatively quickly.  My excitement began to mount as I rounded a corner and got my first glimpse of MSH's flattened summit.

Looking towards the lava dome

As I approached the trail junction between the Truman and Boundary Trails, a younger man came up behind me.  Like myself, he was armed with a camera, and after a bit of chit chat I learned the guy was also after superbloom pics.  

Now, which trail to start first?  The man turned towards the Boundary Trail so I decided to go explore the Truman.

These flowers were dwarf lupine

The Truman Trail began on what appeared to be an old road.  Right away, lupine and Indian paintbrush blooms rose from the rocky soil.  The lupine flowers were small and close to the ground, a variety known as dwarf lupine.  There were also a couple of really large patches of bright orange paintbrush.

No, the mountain wasn't erupting - winds at the summit stirred up dust

I rambled along the trail, snapping copious flower pics, and admiring views of Spirit Lake that kept getting closer the further I traveled.

Field of purple

After about a mile of walking, I reached a junction with a short trail that would take me over to the Boundary Trail.  Although so far there was lupine blooming, the amount of it wasn't anywhere near what I'd seen in the online photos.  But beyond this trail junction was where I started seeing the massive purple fields of internet fame.

Purple as far as the eye can see!

Now I was walking towards Mt. St. Helens' open crater.  One could see the huge hole blown into the mountainside from the fateful 1980 eruption.  The mountain lost nearly 1400 feet of elevation in this single blast.  MSH now resembled a flattened pancake with a small dome rising in the center.

Superbloom and Spirit Lake

As I approached the Boundary Trail, the lupine show kept getting better and better.  Just past this trail junction I again ran into the young man I'd spoken with at the beginning.  Inquiring how the flower conditions were in his direction he smiled and said "incredible."

My flower-lined trail

And so it was - hiking along the Boundary Trail I traveled through the most amazing bloom of lupine I've ever seen anywhere.

The late evening sun made for spectacular lighting

Small purple flowers covered every inch of the broad plains north of the volcano's crater.  It looked as though someone had taken lavender paint and coated the entire landscape.

Paintbrush mixed in with the lupine

Traveling along the Boundary Trail, the hour was approaching 7 o'clock and the sun was dropping fast.  The low angle sun made for some most excellent light on the lupine fields.  But it also meant nighttime was coming fast, and even though I was prepared with flashlights, I didn't really want to hike out in the dark.

Colorful slope

So I kind of hustled through the last mile of the lupine bloom.  In hindsight, I really wish I would've taken more time.  But the thought of hiking out in the dark was a great motivator.  Arriving back at the trail junction near the gravel access road I met at least two groups of people and one lone woman who were all hiking in at this late hour.  It appeared they all planned to capture the sunset.

Downed trail marker

Once on the gravel road, I covered the two miles of uphill and then a steep downhill in record time.  I arrived back at my car just past 8 pm with the sun low on the horizon, but still lighting the sky.  Although my original plan was to spend the night in my car and drive back the following day, I started reassessing things.  The thought of sleeping in my cramped car didn't seem like sch a good idea anymore.  My cozy bed at home was calling.  And I still felt very much awake.  Leaving now meant less traffic and no waiting at both construction zones.

  

Lavender fields forever.....

So that's how I ended up driving back home that same evening.  The trip back wasn't as bad as feared.  I put in a couple of podcasts and they occupied my mind as I navigated first the winding Forest Service roads, and then highways of increasing size and traffic.  I pulled into my driveway just before midnight, jazzed that I'd actually pulled off the long drive and hike to see the lupine superbloom!  It might have been a crazy trip but I now had some amazing images to show for my hard work.

Final look as I puffed up the gravel road

Those of you who admire the pictures we photographers share now have an idea of the effort that goes into getting these amazing scenery shots.  It often involves long drives, late nights, early mornings, hikes in the heat or cold, and time spent sitting waiting for the sun to rise or set.  It also requires large investments in camera equipment and photo editing software, as well as lots of time spent learning how to use both.  Finally, with every photoshoot comes hours of post-processing - sorting and choosing the photos to edit, and then spending more time editing each image until it becomes the amazing final product you enjoy viewing.

So please, please don't copy any photographers images without permission.  We work very hard to create these works of art.  All photographs are the property of the person who captured them (and are often copyrighted).  I enjoy sharing my pictures online and hope they bring joy to those who view.  However, if you are interested in obtaining one of my photos, please ask!