After spending two great, but jam-packed days at Yellowstone National Park, it was time for my buddy Kim and I to head back home to Oregon. From town of West Yellowstone, Montana we had a full day of driving across Idaho to get to Boise, our destination for the night. But I'd planned one more stop as we passed through the state. Although Idaho didn't have any national parks, it did have an area of unique volcanic landscapes that had been designated a National Monument - Craters of the Moon.
First views
Located in a sparsely populated area of Southern Idaho, Craters of the Moon NM is a 750,000-acre geologic wonderland managed jointly by the National Parks Service and Bureau of Land Management. Exposed fissures, lava fields, lava tubes, craters, and cinder cones form this strange, but scenic landscape smack-dab in the middle of Idaho's Snake River Plain. The volcanic activity that created this weird wonderland began 15,000 years ago and continued until just 2,100 years from the present times.
Barren landscape at Craters of the Moon
Although the majority of this national monument can only be accessed by primitive dirt roads, requiring a high-clearance, 4-wheel-drive vehicle, the National Parks Service maintains a visitor center, campground, and paved roadway through a small portion of the area. This was our destination.
Kim poses by a huge lava rock
After driving two hours westward from Idaho Falls, through an extremely sparsely populated area, Kim and I finally reached the visitor center. We stopped to get maps and use the restroom before setting out on a quick tour of the National Monument.
Rough lava outcrop
I decided to drive the short loop road and stop wherever something interested us. The loop road had seven numbered stops (the first one being the visitor center.) Kim and I first pulled over at the North Crater Flow Trailhead and gazed out on the vast plain of chunky, cooled lava rocks. Beyond the rough immediate landscape, green foothills stretched away to a few snowy peaks that anchored the skyline.
Lava plain
I read that this inhospitable landscape had provided a training ground for the Apollo 11 astronauts in 1969. At the time scientists believed that the barren, rocky plains closely resembled similar conditions astronauts would encounter when they landed on the moon.
I was surprised to see so many wildflowers
By now it was midday and the sun beat down. With no shade to speak of and dark lava rocks reflecting the heat, Kim and I didn't linger long.
The second stop on our drive was the Devils Orchard Nature Trail. Only a half mile in distance, Kim and I decided to take a stroll, despite the heat.
Pretty yellow wildflowers
Devils Orchard was created about two thousand years ago when rivers of lava transported huge chunks of a crater wall into the area. Time passed and the rocks eroded, creating soil to nurture the plants and trees that now grow. Rabbitbrush and limber pines are the predominant vegetation. The "orchard" name came from the fact that more plant life grows here than in other parts of the monument.
Lots of dead trees here!
We certainly saw lots of greenery. And wildflowers! I'm sure the early June timing of our visit had something to do with that.
Devils Orchard Trail
As we walked along the paved path through Devils Orchard I noticed a lot of gray, dead trees. Not sure why there were so many. It could be due to the rough climate conditions here in southern Idaho. Rainfall is scant and weather extreme - scorching hot in the summer and bitter cold in winter. And I'm sure the thin volcanic soil isn't enough to support very tall trees.
Lovely wildflowers
I particularly loved these pretty pink wildflowers (not sure of the name.) They are apparently a very hardy variety, as I spotted a few blooms sprouting from a crack in the nearby lava rock.
Wildflowers growing in the rock
Finishing up our short hike at Devils Garden, Kim and I hopped back into the blissful car air conditioning and continued our drive. The road wound upward around a feature called Paisley Cone to the next stop on the drive, a tall barren hill named Inferno Cone.
Paisley Cone
At the Inferno Cone parking area I noticed a flat plain of lava soil. It was barren except for thousands of tiny plants dotting the area. I'm sure in other seasons this area is in fact devoid of vegetation. We were lucky to arrive in late spring when everything was growing.
Barren lava plain
Inferno Cone was a steep, conical hill made of volcanic ash and cinder. These lava fragments were expelled via explosive eruptions from a single vent. As gas charged lava was blown violently into the air, it broke into small fragments that solidified and fell as cinders around the vent to form a symmetrical cone. I later read that Inferno Cone is unique because unlike other cinder cones, it does not have a crater at its summit.
Inferno Cone
Although the quarter mile hiking trail to Inferno Cone's summit was supposed to feature spectacular views, Kim and I took one look at the steep, gravelly user path and decided to skip it. We felt temperatures were much too hot to attempt this shadeless trail.
Mountain views
After snapping a few images of Inferno Cone's dramatic, barren slopes, we piled back into the car for a short drive to the next stop on our Craters of the Moon tour, Spatter Cones.
Spatter Cone
The Spatter Cones were two miniature volcanoes with short trails around their cones, enabling visitors to walk to their center vents. These small hills were formed when lumps of lava exploded into the air before falling back down around the vent they were ejected from. As the molten blobs cooled, they formed the Spatter cones' irregular walls.
Looking towards the Snow Cone from Spatter Cone
The Spatter Cones trails were short, so Kim and I decided to check things out. We walked up a paved path that transitioned into a curbed platform. The main vent area was fenced, to keep overly curious visitors from falling in.
Trail to the Snow Cone
We noticed a third chunky hill beside the Spatter Cones. A sign indicated this was named the "Snow Cone." There was a trail leading to it, so Kim and I followed the path.
The rocky edges of Snow Cone
Looking into another fenced-off abyss, we immediately discovered why this particular feature was called the "Snow Cone." Deep inside the volcano's inactive vent was a large patch of snow. I later read that this vent is so deep that snow resides at the bottom year-round.
Snow Cone is appropriately named!
Although there were still a few other stops along the park road, by now we'd spent nearly two hours at Craters of the Moon, and still had a long drive ahead of us to Boise. So Kim and I skipped visiting several lava tube caves and some more large cinder cones. I guess this means I'll have to come back again when I have a bit more time to further explore this unusual place.
Lava selfie
But I was glad I'd taken the time to stop at this unique National Monument. Another one to check off the list! Now to head for Boise, and the next day home.
I hope you enjoyed this recap of my late spring trip across the great plains and Pacific NW. Now I'll have to get busy and post all the fall color photos I've been capturing.
When my son attended the University of Montana, we used to have an after-Christmas ritual of skiing at Idaho's Schweitzer Mountain on his way back to school. I have many fond memories our trips to this scenic, off the beaten path resort. The largest ski area in Washington and Idaho, Schweitzer is home to some of my all-time favorite black diamond ski runs. On clear days, it's mountaintops boast stellar views of gorgeous Lake Pend Oreille.
But then my son graduated and started seminary, and before I knew it, ten years had elapsed since I'd been back.
So over Christmas, my son and I hatched a plan to meet up in early February and revive the tradition. I was beyond excited. I counted down the long, dark January days in anticipation of spending time with my son and revisiting a favorite resort.
Hello from Idaho!
Then the morning I was to leave, I got a call from my son. He'd come down with the flu and wouldn't be able to make it. Since it was too late to cancel my motel reservation and I'd already purchased lift tickets online, I was committed. Disappointed, and worried about my son's health, I sadly loaded the car and headed east, fretting the entire 7-hour drive to Sandpoint. Although I considered continuing on to Montana to be with my son, he encouraged me to go ski and have fun (he also didn't want me to catch his bug).
Appropriate song for my first day
The following morning, I woke to cloudy, rainy skies. The forecast for Schweitzer was a warm borderline rain/snow mix. Ugh - I wasn't a fan of skiing in the rain. But I'd traveled here to ski, and ski I would. Driving to the parking shuttle area, the first song that came on my car radio was "Private Idaho" by the B-52s. I laughed at the coincidence. Maybe this was a sign - it was gonna be a good day after all.
Cute base area
Schweitzer Mountain is accessed by a scary winding, hairpin road from the outskirts of town. But for those not wanting to endure a white-knuckle drive, the resort provides shuttle buses. Judging by the amount of vehicles in the huge park and ride lot, it appeared the bus was a popular option. A three dollar fee (or free for season pass holders) got me a round trip. For the ride up, I was seated next to a friendly local man who was more than happy to share resort beta.
Super-foggy day
After taking a few quick laps on the lower elevation Basin Express lift, I was ready to whisk to the mountain's very top and find my favorite black diamond runs, White Lightening, Stiles, and Pend Oreille. But as I rode higher up the mountain, the clouds became thicker. Exiting the lift, I found visibility near zero. Slowly I edged my way towards Pend Oreille, the closest trail to the lift. Not only did the fog make visibility difficult, my glasses were fogging under my goggles. Getting down this steep slope required a leap of faith (I joke about "skiing by Braille" but that's exactly what I did). Luckily, about halfway down the skies became lighter and I could see once again. But after a couple of scary trips from the top fighting foggy glasses, I went inside to clear my lenses.
Ice covered skier
Returning to the slopes after a quick break, I tried to find the mountain's backside, only to end up in a different area than I intended. No big deal, I took advantage of a long cruising run to the Stella lift. But the elevation was lower here, and instead of snow, I encountered rain. Starting to get soaked, I decided to head back to the base area, where it was colder.
Over on the front side a full-on snowstorm was in progress. Winds howled, and snow whirled through the air. But, oh was the snow nice! Although visibility was still a challenge, I could see just enough to make my way down from the very top. I kept making run after run, every trip fresh tracks in the new-fallen snow. So much fun! The wet snow began collecting on my outerwear, freezing into an icy coating. I skied through the lunch hour, knowing that once I went inside melting ice would soak my gear, and I wouldn't go back out.
They get lots of snow here!
Finally around 1:30 hunger got the best of me, and I surrendered to the nearest cafeteria. After downing a bowl of chili, I just couldn't bring myself to put my wet gear back on and return to the cold, stormy slopes. So I decided to head back into town. Waiting outside for the shuttle bus, I realized the mushy falling snow had turned into full-fledged raindrops. Good thing I quit when I did!
Sandpoint had a cute downtown
Sandpoint, Idaho has a cute downtown area. I purposely chose a motel close by so I could walk to nearby restaurants and shops. That evening I enjoyed a leisurely stroll through downtown, window shopping at the cute boutiques before locating an excellent brewpub.
Loved the Christmas lights in February
Sandpoint even kept their Christmas lights up into February. Really made for a festive atmosphere. These lights made some fantastic reflections on the wet pavement, but only having my cell phone with me at the time, my photos weren't the best.
Stella lift house
Drier weather was forecast for the following day. I was happy to wake up to clearing, moisture-free skies. Hustling to make the 8:00 shuttle bus, I took a wrong turn and ended up driving through downtown a second time. Thinking I'd surely be late, a Starbucks conveniently located next to the resort's main road enticed me in. Despite the detours, I pulled into the park and ride and the bus was still there! I hopped out and began unloading my skis but at that moment the bus closed it's doors and rumbled away. Oh well, the next bus was only a half hour away, and now I had time to enjoy my latte.
Scenic trail junction
Morning sunlight streamed down from blue skies as the next bus delivered me into Schweitzer's base area. Eager for a dry, better visibility day, I boarded the Great Escape Quad lift bound for the resort's very top. About halfway up, my chair was swallowed by a dense, white cloud. So much for my clear, sunny day.....
Still murky fog on top (someone laughed at me for taking this photo)
The entire top half of the mountain was enveloped by a huge fog bank. Visibility wasn't any better than the previous day. Oh well, I'd skied in these conditions yesterday and survived. So I began making laps up and down. The fog clung to the upper reaches and I gingerly made slow turns until I could see again.
Lake Pend Oreille emerges
Riding single, I got paired up with lots of interesting people on the chairlift. All mentioned that fog was a common problem here. One guy jokingly commented that Schweitzer was French for "fog."
Top of Lakeview lift
After the first hour, tired of not being able to see, I traveled to the resort's back side in search of better conditions. Although visibility was much improved, yesterday's warm rain had frozen overnight, turning the slopes here into a sheet of ice. A high school ski race was underway on one of the runs, and although the racers may have liked the icy slopes, I did not.
Amazing scenery!
Back to the front side once again! A long, winding cat track took skiers around the mountain. As I descended, the skies cleared once again, and Lake Pend Oreille emerged front and center. Wow, what an excellent view! Many photo stops ensued. (By the way, the lake's name is pronounced "ponderay")
Snow ghosts
After lunch, I traveled around the mountain once again, seeking good snow and clear skies. Unfortunately, thick clouds clung stubbornly to the mountaintop all day and the back side slopes never did thaw out. Around 2:30, I was ready to call it quits and head in for a beer, when I noticed sun illuminating slopes by the Lakeview chairlift. I hadn't skied there yet, and decided to check it out.
Ridge run
Turned out to be the best conditions of the day. Not only was the snow here soft and fluffy, on top of the chair, I was awed by the interesting shapes created by ice encasing every surface. The lifts, trail signs, and radio towers had been transformed into white works of art. But the best scenery was the ice-crusted trees, nicknamed "snow ghosts," lining nearby slopes. Oh were they lovely!
There was a reason the resort named this chairlift Lakeview. The best panoramas of huge Lake Pend Oreille were from the top of this ridge. It was so lovely, I ended up taking three more runs, just to enjoy the snow and fantastic scenery. Glad I saved the best for last.
Breathtaking lake views!
Despite the wet, foggy weather and my son's last-minute illness, I ended up having a great trip. It was fun to reacquaint myself with an old favorite resort after so many years. The town of Sandpoint and the friendly locals on the slopes totally charmed me. I'd love to spend more time here again someday.
I've had a great couple of roadtrips this summer. First, in late August, I drove east to South Dakota and visited my folks. Then, in mid-September, I took a long weekend mini-vacation, visiting Lassen National Park, in Northern California, before heading home via the Cali and Oregon coast. Oh, so many photos and stories, and sadly not enough time to keep my blog current! (That darn job of mine keeps getting in the way!)
Sooo......my next series of posts will be recaps from my South Dakota trip. And then I'll tackle my Lassen adventure. Annnddd.....I have one final big vacation planned for later this month that will take me away from blogland for a week or so. But dear readers, be patient - I promise the photos and stories I eventually share will be well worth the wait!
Lovely old buildings line the main streets
My South Dakota trip started with departure in the midst of a huge rainstorm. After battling pouring rain and nasty driving conditions through the Columbia River Gorge, I hit blowing dust, coupled with dense wildfire smoke in eastern Washington. Then I passed through Idaho. The smoke from nearby fires was so thick, visibility was a challenge. And I had to close all the vents in my car - didn't want the interior smelling like a campfire!
The Fainting Goat - Love the name!
Knowing a lunch break was needed, I pulled off I-90 into Wallace, Idaho. Although I'd stopped here many times on previous roadtrips east, my visits had been limited to brief gas and rest area ventures. Friends had told me what a cute little town this was. Traveling by myself, I decided now was a good time to check this place out!
Wonderful salad
My friends were so right! Pulling into Wallace's main street, I was surrounded by amazing old buildings, most of them artfully restored. I parked my car, and headed towards a tiny restaurant named "the Fainting Goat." With a name like that, this place had to be good!
Empty sidewalk tables
Oh and it was! Not only did I have a wonderful strawberry salad, I also experienced exceptional service from a friendly local woman. When asking where the fire was burning, she replied there were fires all around the town. The closest one happened to be a mere six miles away. My waitress matter-of-factly stated she'd packed up her possessions that morning, fully prepared for an evacuation.
A bordello museum!!
After lunch, I exited the restaurant to strong wind gusts. With so many fires nearby, I was a little tentative about staying much longer. But the cool historic downtown district beckoned, and I ended up taking a short walk around, camera in hand.
Bordello backside
Wallace got its start as a mining town, men drawn by rich silver deposits in the nearby mountains. After an 1890 fire burned most of the buildings, the town rebuilt with brick, some of these structures still standing to this day. Another huge wildfire in 1910 again swept through the valley, destroying a third of Wallace's downtown.
Gorgeous train station
But over the years, this tiny village persevered, and has now restored and spruced up its historic buildings. Instead of miners, it now attracts outdoor enthusiasts eager to recreate in the nearby mountains and streams.
More unusual buildings
Another fun fact about Wallace - every downtown building is on the National Register of Historic Places. When I-90 was constructed in the early 1990's, this designation forced the freeway to be built on structure above the town, instead of winding through it.
Tour bus
I really enjoyed walking around Wallace, checking out the old buildings now converted into cute cafes, brewpubs, gift shops and boutiques. They even preserved the old "house of ill repute" now converted into the Bordello Museum. (Now that's something you don't see everyday!)
Souvenir shot
I loved the old train station, now housing a visitor information center. The grounds were meticulously landscaped. So wonderful to see this lovely old building restored to its full glory.
Old mining carts used as planters
I chuckled when I noticed old ore carts had been repurposed as flower planters along one of the main streets. Definitely in character for this mining town!
You don't see business signs like this!
My stop in Wallace was a nice break from a long day of driving. But after a pleasant half hour walk around, I knew it was time to hit the road. Butte, Montana was my evening's destination, and I had many miles yet to travel.
But I'm glad I stopped and finally gave Wallace, Idaho a proper visit.
