The Marvelous McNeil Point

One of my top summer trails, I've been hauling myself up to Mt Hood's McNeil Point for many years.  Introduced to me by one of my hiking friends, its stunning wildflower meadows and mountain views kept me coming back each summer.  Multiple notes in an old hiking book show visits dating back to 2000, and nearly every year in the decade and half since then.  However sometime around 2020, thanks to social media, this lovely slice of paradise was "found."  The trail and parking area became so crowded, I decided to forego my annual trek for awhile. 

But last year I started missing McNeil's summer flower show.  It was time to go back!  Trying to avoid the crowds, I hiked there via lower elevation, longer trail.  It was such a slog, this year I decided to suck it up and return to the usual route.

A new sign!

I recruited my friend Catherine to join me for my McNeil Point revisit.  Since she's a teacher and has summers off, we decided upon a late July weekday in hopes of encountering less people.  That, coupled with a fairly early start, ensured us a spot at the small trailhead parking area.

Heading up the ridge

It was a beautiful day!  The sun was out, the temps moderate, and the bugs few and far between.  Catherine and I headed up the first steep climb before junctioning with the Timberline Trail.  We then ascended up this trail, taking in occasional mountain views, wildflowers, and butterflies before coming to a sign pointing the way towards McNeil Point.  I was surprised to see the old, weather-beaten wooden sign that had been here for years replaced with a brand-new version.  To memorialize the occasion, I had Catherine pose beside it for a few pics.

Avalanche lily

After the obligatory sign photos, we began climbing again, this time following the spine of a rocky ridge.  Ducking in and out of scrubby fir forests Catherine and I finally came to a clearing with amazing views of Mt Hood and the adjacent Cascade peaks.

Orange Indian paintbrush highlight this colorful meadow

Past an old trail junction, we contoured along a slope into an alpine wonderland.  Wildflowers bloomed in the meadows here - orange Indian paintbrush, purple penstemon, pale purple asters, white avalanche lilies - and many others.  A few patches of snow lingered nearby.  Our trail even crossed a small snowfield, a bit slippery but doable.

Our goal is in sight

The alpine meadows directly below McNeil Point erupt into a kaleidoscope of colorful wildflowers in July.  Some years are better than others - rainfall, heat, and amount of winter snow all affect the vibrancy and timing of the bloom.  Back in 2013 I witnessed the absolute best wildflower show I've ever seen on this trail.  The pink heather and magenta Indian paintbrush was so prolific - the entire area was absolutely stunning!  (I blogged about it in this post.)  Since that year I've never seen it as good.

We came upon this most excellent meadow

I thought maybe we'd be too late to catch peak bloom.  After several years of either just missing it, or having a less-than-stellar wildflower show, I'd set the bar low.  So imagine my surprise and delight when I came around a bend in the trail to an entire meadow filled with pink heather and magenta Indian paintbrush, all in full, colorful bloom.

Heather and magenta paintbrush as far as the eye could see

As you can imagine, forward progress ground to a screeching halt, as cameras came out and photos were taken.  Many, many, photos!

Absolutely gorgeous!

The wildflower bloom was so amazing it nearly rivaled the fantastic 2013 show.  It certainly was the best I'd seen up here since.

A distant Mt. Adams anchors the skyline

Catherine and I lingered in this wonderful meadow for quite a long time.  (We probably would've gotten going sooner if not for me and my "just one more photo" mentality.)  But finally I decided I had enough images, and we still had a bit of distance and climbing to reach our final destination on McNeil Point.  Onward!  

Lots of wildflowers in this meadow!

The wildflower show wasn't over yet.  We passed by an area of lupine so lush and purple, we nick-named it "lupine alley."  And once upon McNeil Point's plateau, I ran into more flower fields, each as colorful as the next (but not quite as good as that heather/paintbrush meadow below.)

Catherine playing in the snow

Seeing a large snowfield above the trail, Catherine couldn't resist hiking up to it and sliding around.  

Poor McNeil Point stone shelter has seen better days

Despite all our dilly-dallying we did finally reach McNeil Point proper, defined by its old stone shelter.  Built in the 1930's by the Civilian Conservation Corp, the poor structure was looking pretty dilapidated.  A blue tarp covered the roof, anchored by rocks.  With its stability in question, I chose not to go inside.

Flower field and Mt. Hood view

Usually the meadows directly above this stone shelter host a wide variety of wildflowers.  Most noteable are the Western Pasque flower seed-heads, whose wild-haired poofs look like something out of a Dr. Seuss book.  (I've affectionately nick-named them "Hippy on a stick.")  This year's meadow show wasn't nearly as good as in years past.  I really haven't seen a spectacular bloom here since that wonderful day in 2013.  Since 2020, this area has been horribly overused and I suspect the wildflowers have suffered as a result (people - this is why you should stay on the trail!)

We dubbed this spot "lupine alley"

Catherine and I found an unused campsite near the shelter and perched on the rocks for lunch with a view.  Our vantage high above the Sandy River gave us panoramic vistas of the terrain below as well as Mt. Hood's craggy west face with her shrinking glaciers.

So lovely!

Catherine and I returned the way we came, retracing our steps across the McNeil plateau, down through lupine alley, and once again past the wonderful heather and paintbrush meadow.  More photos may have been taken here!

A plethora of paintbrush

From high on the ridge, we spotted the nearby Cascade peaks of Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, and Mt. St. Helens.  In addition, smoke from a large wildfire burning in the Columbia River Gorge could be seen.  This one a human-caused wildfire, it's always sad to see more of the forest burning.

Beautiful mountain stream

On the way down, Catherine and I stopped by a lovely mountain stream, fed by snowmelt high on the mountain.  It wound through a patch of green vegetation, highlighted by bright spots of wildflowers, most notably purple lupine.

And there were butterflies!

The warm afternoon temps had brought out the butterflies and as we trekked downhill, I tried to capture a few as they settled onto the wildflowers.  I didn't have the best luck - usually as soon as I pointed my camera on these winged beauties, they nearly always flew away.

Two butterflies caught in a not-so-private moment

However, I was fortunate enough to capture two butterflies busy in a (ahem!) not-so-private moment.  I think they were too busy with each other to notice my camera.

Enjoying the views

It was so good to be back at McNeil Point again for the summer wildflowers.  And although we saw a few hikers, the meadows and shelter area weren't very busy at all.  My overcrowding fears didn't materialize.  Sometime you just have to say "what the heck" and go anyway.  I've found I'm always glad that I did!

Flower Time at McNeil Point

"You're sure starting out late in the day!" an older lady chided as I climbed the Timberline Trail towards McNeil Point.

She and her early-bird buddies were heading back to their cars at 2 pm, while I was two miles into my 10 mile trek.

Fireweed starting to bloom

I usually don't start hikes in the afternoon.  Normally I'm right there with that "crack of dawn" lady.  But a morning hair appointment delayed my plans.  I almost didn't go - the Summer Olympics opening ceremony was that evening, and my belated start meant I'd surely miss some of it.  But, in the end, the call of the mountains was too strong to ignore.  Besides, I'm not one to waste a Friday off work!

Mt. St. Helens view on the way up

McNeil Point is one of my favorite summer hikes.  By late July it's alpine meadows erupt into a frenzy of brightly colored wildflowers.  The views from on top are grand indeed - three Cascade peaks and the surrounding foothills.  When deciding which trail to visit, the choice was clear - time for my annual McNeil sojourn!

Steep climb to McNeil Point

I started my journey from the Top Spur trailhead.  A half mile climb had me intersecting with the Timberline and Pacific Crest Trails.  As always, I followed the optional route around Bald Mountain for a front-row view of Mt. Hood, before reconnecting with the Timberline Trail and continuing my trek up.

Very happy to see this stone shelter!

Although the "official" way to access McNeil Point is via a winding path that passes two cute ponds, climbs a breathtaking ridge, and crosses a lovely heather meadow, I always opt for the shortcut - a extremely steep climb up a rocky slope.  Gets me up to the stone shelter quicker, and shaves a mile and a half from the total round-trip distance.  But, oh do my legs and lungs pay for it!

The "yahoo I made it" photo

At the bottom of this slope I fortified myself with gummy bears before starting my climb.  It wasn't long before I was dripping with sweat, huffing and puffing.  The mid-afternoon heat did not help whatsoever!  As many times as I've done it, this steep traverse never gets any easier.  But I took lots of photo (aka "rest") breaks and kept moving steadily upward.  Still it was a huge relief when I finally arrived at McNeil Point's lovely alpine meadow.

Hippy on a Stick

This windswept ridge offers killer views of the Cascade peaks and surrounding forested vista.  And a unique stone shelter, constructed in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corp, is an iconic sight. 

A few flowers in McNeil's meadow

Yes, the high altitude views can't be beat, but this ridge is famous for it's prolific midsummer wildflower bloom.  Normally the meadow adjacent to the stone shelter is chock-full of paintbrush, heather, lupine, western pasqueflower and many others.

McNeil Point's views can't be beat

But this year's bloom was a huge disappointment.  Only a few straggler paintbrush blooms remained in the meadow.  And I've seen much better displays of the western pasqueflower (aka "hippy on a stick") in previous trips.

Lots of pink heather

A few bright pink patches of heather could be found nearby.  But that was about it for wildflowers.

Looking down on the return trail

Oh well, the views more than made up for any lack of wildflowers!  From the top of this ridge, I could look down on the trail below and spot my return route.  (It's that light green line in the middle of the above photo.)

Paintbrush and heather below the shelter

After enjoying a snack, and soaking in the views, I was ready to take the "official" trail back down.

This meadow is a lovely shade of pink

I descended the ridge into another meadow.  In past years this particular area had been chock-full of heather and magenta paintbrush.  (Check out this post for a good example)  But a dry spring and summer had not been conducive to large wildflower blooms. 

More colorful meadows

This year's flower patches were few and far between.  But the ones I did manage to find were awfully nice.

Paintbrush line this ridge

Topping out on another ridge, one side was dotted with red paintbrush blooms.

Stunning magenta paintbrush

Only found in high mountain habitats, the crimson petals of magenta paintbrush are always a visual treat.

Monkeyflowers blooming along McGee Creek

Descending the meadow, I came upon another ridge.  McGee Creek bordered on side, it's banks thick with brightly colored monkeyflowers.  I couldn't resist a trip down to check out the show!

Classic mountain view

One of the advantages to starting my hike later in the day - I got to see these familiar sights in different lighting conditions.  The afternoon sun illuminated Mt. Hood beautifully, and I was able to get some great shots.

Pink monkeyflower

The flowers along McGee Creek were some of the best I've ever seen in this location.  Totally made up for the lack of blooms up in the meadows.

Killer Mt. Adams view

Following the ridge down, I again intersected with the Timberline Trail.  Although I wasn't up high anymore, the forest still provided clearings - perfect opportunities for another glimpse of the adjacent Cascade peaks.

Still some beargrass blooms

And still more surprises - on my return trek I passed by several patches of beargrass, some still very much in bloom.  Unusual to see in early August!

Backlit beargrass

I also passed by several meadows still sporting lots of wildflowers.  I especially liked these purple asters.

Asters join a magenta paintbrush

Two tiny tarns, ponds formed from glacial snowmelt, are well-known landmarks along this portion of the Timberline Trail.  Passing by the first (larger) tarn, I was able to capture some nice Mt. Hood reflections.

Pond reflections

About halfway to the Top Spur trail, I passed by a wide clearing that gives hikers a panoramic view of Mt. Hood and its surrounding forested ridges and valleys.  A "must stop" photo site, I took full advantage of the excellent evening light.

Then I had to hustle to the trailhead to beat the sunset.  Although I always carry a headlamp, I really didn't want to hike in the dark!  I arrived at my car by 7 pm, with about 45 minutes of daylight to spare.

Classic Mt. Hood view from the Timberline Trail

Glad I was able to carve out time for my annual McNeil Point trek.  Although the flowers weren't quite up to par, the magnificent views and lovely sunny day more than made up for it.  Time spent in the mountains is never wasted!

And I even got home in time to watch most of the Olympics opening ceremony.  :)


Sharing with:  Through My Lens

Fall Surprises on McNeil Point

McNeil Point is my favorite Mt. Hood summer hike.  In late July, it's slopes erupt in a frenzy of brightly colored wildflowers.  (For evidence see this post.)  Sadly, this year the flower show came early, and my foot wasn't quite in hiking shape at the time, so I missed out.

Colorful hillside around Bald Mtn

But I'd once visited McNeil Point in the fall, and knew this season could be spectacular too.  So on a Friday in early October, I send out a APB hiking invitation to my friends.  My buddy Steve was the only respondent.

Beautiful vine maple

Steve and I set out to the trailhead on a chilly, cloudy morning.  Disappointment that cloudy skies would spoil the spectacular views didn't deter me.  We began our trek on the Top Spur Trail climbing through foggy woods, their gloomy understories brightened by vivid yellow leaves.

Bright color spots

When the Top Spur trail intersected with the Timberline and Pacific Crest Trails, Steve and I chose to detour around Bald Mountain, hoping a break in the clouds might give us a glimpse of Mt. Hood.  Although Mt. Hood only peeped briefly through the fog bank, we were treated to a brilliant display of fall color on the adjacent slopes.  Lovely red-orange vine maple leaves lit up an otherwise dreary morning.

Huckleberry bushes in full color

And there was more good stuff to come.  Following the Timberline Trail through more murky woods, we came to the steep unofficial climber trail to McNeil Point.  This path shoots straight up a rocky ridge for a half mile.  Although difficult, this shortcut provides the quickest route to access McNeil Point's shelter.

McNeil Point shelter

As Steve and I climbed, we noticed the clouds began lifting and more of the surrounding valley opening up.  By the time we reached McNeil Point's shelter we'd hiked above the fog bank and could plainly see Mt. Hood towering above.

Steve looks ahead to our destination

A couple of young guys were hanging out in the tiny rock shelter.  Since Steve and I had gotten a fairly early start, we were surprised to see someone up here ahead of us.  The men said they were camping nearby and had climbed up to spend the day.  They were friendly enough, but one guy was hiding behind the shelter.  I smelled a nasty odor and realized he was smoking a cigar.  Ugh!  Steve and I were surprised to see someone smoking when conditions were so dry.

Mt. Hood is looking mighty bare!

There's an unofficial climbers trail that follows the ridge above McNeil Point for about a mile and 1000 feet of ascent to a magnificent front-row view of Mt. Hood.  Steve and I had extra energy (it was still morning after all) and decided to extend our hike.

Glacial ice caves

So we chugged up the rocky ridge, stopping occasionally to take in the marvelous views.  Glimpses of three Cascade peaks, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Rainer were visible above the cloudy horizon.  Looking over towards the Sandy Glacier, I was surprised to see the entrances to three ice caves poking out of the very diminished glacier.

Views from on high

After a tough climb, the path leveled out and petered over a rocky ridgetop before deadending at the edge of a steep cliff.  From this perch, Mt. Hood's west side opened up before us.  The perfect spot for a lunch break!

Relaxing at our lunch spot

Steve and I were starving.  As we chowed down our lunches, I took in the panorama of adjacent forested hills and mountain peaks.  I sadly observed Mt. Hood's gray, rocky face and noticed how bare it was compared to other times I'd been up here.  Her glaciers had shrunk to the smallest size I'd ever seen.  It was painfully evident the toll this year's hot, dry weather had taken on my favorite mountain.

Looking down into the valley

After lolling at our sunny perch for nearly an hour resting and refueling, it was time to retrace our steps back down to the shelter.

Above the clouds

Our return route was one spectacular view after another.  Hiking above the cloud bank made for some cool views (and photos!)

Spectacular views coming down

Walking along this high ridge was one of my favorite parts of the hike.

Getting closer to the shelter

We tromped downhill in record time.  (It always amazes me how much quicker it takes to descend compared to climbing)

Hood towers over the meadow

Back at the shelter, the same young guys were still hanging around (thankfully NOT smoking cigars this time).  A couple more hikers were having lunch in the adjacent meadow and Steve struck up a conversation with them.

Red color spots

Then, it was time to complete the loop.  We headed back down via the "official" trail, across a heather meadow dotted with lovely spots of bright crimson huckleberry leaves.

Colorful mountainside

Past a ridge overlooking mighty Ladd Creek, I glanced up it's drainage gully to a wonderful view of the mountain.  Golden fall colors lined the creek's banks combined with more brilliant red huckleberry leaves which made for a stunning image.

Steve admires the mountain

Following the ridge downhill, Steve and I again rejoined the Timberline Trail.  At the junction Hood towered mightily above the forest.  It was such a great view, we both stopped for more photo ops.

The ponds are nearly dried up

Then it was a fast trip down the Timberline Trail three miles back to the Top Spur Trail.  On the way, we passed two tiny ponds, shrunken even smaller thanks to dry summer weather.

Patchwork quilt of color

We also spotted another patchwork quilt of fall color high on a rocky ridge.  It was here we began to encounter backpackers, getting an early jump on the weekend.  All of them were amazed by the sunny skies.  Apparently the lower elevations were still cold and foggy.

The forest is ablaze

Another mile or so down the trail and our sun began to fade.  Temperatures started to drop.  Beginning to chill, I stopped to pull my jacket back on.

My favorite autumn color spot

But, oh the fall colors were lovely here!  I walked through a most spectacular group of huckleberry bushes proudly displaying their finest hues.  The trail was lined in a technicolor tunnel.  Our final trek down the Top Spur trail was a world of yellow-gold.  By now we'd descended back into the fog bank, which added an air of mystery to my final photos.

Golden forest in the fog

Another wonderful hike!  Although I usually visit McNeil Point during the height of summer wildflower season, I'm beginning to think a fall trip needs to be added to the annual schedule.

Stats:  10 miles, 2500 feet elevation gain



Sharing with:  Photo Friday and Scenic Weekends