Here Fishy Fishy

Central Oregon fall trip, day two!  (And yes, I know those critters in the photo below aren't fishies)

I'm very lucky to have not only my daughter, but also one of my brothers living in the outdoor recreation mecca that is Bend, Oregon.

Not fishies

I was ready to explore some "new to me" Central Oregon hiking trails, so the day after hiking in Smith Rock State Park my daughter and I picked up my brother Dale and headed south of Bend.  Pulling out of my brother's driveway, we spied some of the locals taking a nap in a neighbor's front yard.  The deer here are so used to humans, they don't even flinch for a crazy, camera-wielding lady.

Paulina Creek Falls

I really wanted to check out Lava Butte at Newberry National Volcanic Monument, but sadly we found it closed for the season.  So further southward we drove, until Dale spotted a turn out for Paulina Lake.  I'd heard there was a cool waterfall there - so quick change of plans!

Lovely Paulina Creek

An extremely long climb up a narrow Forest Service road finally led us to the parking area.  We followed a short trail to an elegant, stone-walled observation platform perched on a deep canyon's rim.  Paulina Creek Falls trickled over an impressive cliff, dropping 80 feet to the creek below.

Lookin' for salmon

Dale spotted a trail leading away from the viewing area, and we decided to see where it went.  At first, it paralleled the creek above the falls, but soon climbed up a steep bank.  The creek became farther and farther below us.

Red salmon in the water

Then my daughter spied something red in the water.  It was a salmon!  Dale and I craned our necks over the bank and began seeing several of the bright fish, valiantly swimming upstream to spawn.

Spying more fishies

Although I've lived in the Pacific NW for many years, this was my first time witnessing migrating salmon.  And - of all places - in Central Oregon!

Valiantly swimming upstream

Continuing to follow the trail upstream, we saw more and more fish darting through the water.  Finally, we came upon Paulina Lake's outlet.  A road crossed above the outlet structure, and a small cascade gushed out below.  Downstream of this structure floated dozens of salmon bodies, white with decay.

Salmon final resting place

Although I'm quite familiar with the salmon's life cycle, it was still sad to see so many dead fish.  Unable make it through the outlet structure, their journey ended here.

Not many fish could climb the lake's outlet

My daughter, Dale and I hiked down to the river bank for a closer look.  Peering at the lake's outfall, Dale noticed a fish trying to jump up it.  Then we noticed another.  And another.

Capturing this sight was a job for my GoPro!  I held my little camera out, and tried to get as close as I dared.  Of course, once the camera was switched on, the fish decided to take a break, and I stood for quite a few minutes before the salmon got over their shyness.  But I was able to get some footage of the fish action  - and I've shared it in the video above (please excuse my dorky comments!)

Paulina Creek Falls from the canyon's other side

After tiring of the fish jumpers, we followed the trail on the canyon's opposite rim, until emerging from the forest to a view of the falls again.  This time we were across the canyon from the nice observation platform.  Can you see it in the photo above?  (Hint, it's to the right of the waterfall)

Paulina Lake

Returning on the same trail, my brother and I pondered where all the salmon had come from.  They couldn't have swam upstream from very far - Paulina Creek Falls was too tall of a barrier.  Maybe they swam downstream from the lake and lived out their lives in the creek above the falls?  The many mysteries of nature....

Mother-daughter photo op!

Gloomy skies had been threatening rain all morning, and on our way back to our car, the clouds decided to let loose.  Although I'd hoped to explore more of this area, the cold precip made lunch at a one of Bend's warm brewpubs more attractive!

But it was a fun outing, finding a new waterfall, and witnessing the salmon's circle of life. 

Return to Smith Rock

Veterans Day fell on a Friday this year.  That meant a three-day weekend for me.  Time for a road trip!  I'd been itching to get one more Central Oregon jaunt in before ski season, and the opportunity had just presented itself.

The classic view

Not only does one of my brothers live in Bend, but my daughter recently relocated to a nearby town.  Of course it's not like I needed any more reasons to visit this part of Oregon (but it certainly didn't hurt!)

Sagebrush

After a leisurely morning drive over the mountains, I arrived at Smith Rock State Park just shy of noon.  A unique, outstandingly beautiful park, my plan was to spent the afternoon hiking and photographing this special place.

Path by the river

The tall, red spires of Smith Rock State Park stand out like beacons against Central Oregon's barren high desert.  Eroded by the Crooked River from old volcanic deposits, these cliffs attract rock climbers worldwide.  But non-climbers like myself can also enjoy these scenic delights via numerous hiking trails.

This sign marks a climbing route

My plan for the afternoon was to climb the steep trail up Misery Ridge, pass by the Monkey Face (an iconic rock tower) and then complete my 4-mile loop via the River Trail.

Climbing Misery Ridge

Today's holiday meant the park was swarming with visitors.  Hikers filled trails and climbers dotted adjcent rock faces.  Despite the crowds, I was happy to be here.  One of my favorite state parks, I gleefully followed a path from the parking lot that took me to the first classic viewpoint.  And it was breathtaking.

View from on top

Orange rock walls rose vertically from the desert floor.  Framed on three sides, the Crooked River made a lazy bend through the very middle.  Although cloudy skies muted colors, it was still a sight to behold.

Approaching the Monkey Face

I followed an extremely steep trail down to the canyon's bottom.  A fancy footbridge crossing the Crooked River put me at the foot of the Misery Ridge Trail.  Here I could either follow the river, or go straight up the ridge.  Wishing to get the climb over with, I chose the latter.

Climbers on the Monkey Face

They call it Misery Ridge for a reason - and it didn't take me long to realize why.  The path switchbacked relentlessly up the steep canyon wall.  Huffing and puffing, I took liberal amounts of photo (aka "rest") breaks.

Climbers on an adjacent wall

Luckily, the photos ops were numerous.  The higher I ascended, the more the canyon below opened up, and the greater the views.

Farmlands and mountains

After a half mile or so of climbing, the path finally leveled out.  I'd reached the top of the ridge.  A gravelly trail took me across this high plateau to the opposite side, for more killer views.  All of Central Oregon's mountains stretched across the horizon.

The climbers were fun to watch

And, rising above the very clifftops I saw the famous "Monkey Face" - a slender rock pillar who's top indeed resembled a monkey's facial features.

Monkey Face pano

Front and center was a group of three climbers attempting to scale the Monkey Face's near-vertical wall.  Mesmerized, I sat and watched them slowly crawl higher.

Heading back down Mesa Verde Trail

The climbers were fascinating to watch!  To me, scaling such a tall rock wall seemed totally impossible.  But these folks made it look like a walk in the park.

Final glimpse of the mountains

Finally getting my fill of rock climbing, I traversed across the rest of the ridgetop, locating the Mesa Verde Trail, my path back down to the river.  Another descent, another set of spectacular Central Oregon views.  Green pastures bookended by large country estates and scruffy pine forests.  And more glimpses of those wonderful Cascade peaks.

Can you see the monkey face?

Looking up from Monkey Face's base gives one a very good indication how this formation got it's name.

Unique rock art

Ahhh....after a tough climb there's nothing I appreciate more than a good downhill ramble.  Descending down the windy trail, I got a bit of smug satisfaction watching all the uphill hikers gasping and struggling. 

Loved the trail signs

I passed by an area where tons of tiny rocks had been stacked and crammed into small crannies.  Not sure what it was all about, but made for some interesting photos.

Crooked River

Finally, reaching river level, I stopped for a moment to soak in the lovely riverbank and admire some geese swimming by.

Trail through the grass and sagebrush

But the clouds threatened rain, and late afternoon darkness was beginning to descend, so I knew it was time to hustle.  Many other hikers had also noted the fading light, and I suddenly found myself in a conga-line of people, all heading to the parking lot.

Lots of color on the riverbank

But Smith Rock saved one final great view for my camera.  Rounding a river bend, I gasped in delight at the colorful fall hues lining it's banks.  Adjacent rocky cliffs reflected perfectly in the river's still waters.  Time to step out of line - I needed to capture this!

Well maintained trail

The sun was setting fast, and I'd hoped for one final chance to photograph some of the cliffs along the Wolf Tree Trail, just beyond the sturdy Crooked River bridge.  Hustling down the path, I hoped the light would last a few more minutes.

Day is fading fast

I grabbed a shot of the footbridge, framed by golden sagebrush, and the cliffs rising beyond.  Although fighting dull light, I still kind of liked the images that were captured.

Weathered tree and sagebrush

I came across a downed, weathered tree surrounded by numerous golden sagebrush tufts.  Although I'd come to photograph Smith Rock's scenic orange cliffs, this photo ended up being one of my favorites from the day.

Final evening light on the cliffs

I arrived at the last viewpoint with just enough time to catch the sun's final rays as they weakly illuminated the nearby spires.  Although not exactly what I'd hoped to capture, it was a delight to stand by the river's edge and watch the last light of day fade away.

Now....on to Redmond for dinner!

(Stay tuned for day two..............)

Autumn Gorge Waterfalls

Are you tired of fall colors yet?

Hang in there - I have one more set of photos to share.  Another autumn tradition of mine is to spend a day touring the Columbia River Gorge visiting as many waterfalls as time allows.

Leaf stuck on trail sign

A gloomy Saturday in early November had me debating whether to resurrect this annual waterfall extravaganza or stay home.  Rain was forecast, and a large squall had just passed by.  But I knew the days of leaf color were numbered.  One good windstorm would clear the trees for the year.  So although the chances of a dry hike weren't great, I decided to pack my camera bag and go just the same.

Golden forest

The steep cliffs and abundant rainfall of the Columbia River Gorge create many spectacular cascades.  Although I've never met a waterfall I didn't like, I'll admit to having a few favorites.  One of these is the elegant Elowah Falls.  A couple of years had passed since my last visit.  I decided today was a good day to get reacquainted.

Fallen leaves decorate the trail

All that morning's hemming and hawing had burned time, so it was nearly noon when I pulled in to the small parking area at the John B. Yeon Trailhead.  But today was my lucky day - I scored the last parking spot (this trailhead is so popular parked cars normally line the adjacent road for at least half a mile.)

Sunny colors on a gloomy day

After taking the necessary rainy day precautions (rain jacket - check, gaiters - check, pack cover - check, umbrella....you get the picture) I headed out into a still-dry forest.  I was instantly captivated by the numerous yellow leaves amongst a stately Douglas Fir backdrop.

Elowah Falls

The trail to Elowah Falls is a mere mile and a half, and even with a few photo breaks, I was switchbacking down into it's mossy valley in no time.  I followed McCord Creek's delightful fern-covered banks, now enhanced by golden fallen leaves and more yellow color in the adjacent trees above.

Lovely color on the adjacent rock face

But the best was yet to come - upon entering an enormous cliff-rimmed canyon, I gasped at the lovely shades of yellow, orange and green covering it's basalt walls.  And front and center flowed Elowah Falls, her 289 foot tall cascade thundering into the creek below.

Framed with moss and colorful leaves

Of course the rain decided to time its return upon my arrival.  As I was erecting tripod and camera for a photo session, the heavens opened up.

A tall cascade!

There's nothing more difficult than trying to capture a gushing waterfall in the pouring rain.  Not only did I have to protect my camera from the waterfall's spray, I also had to shield it from fat raindrops above.  Good thing I'd packed several microfiber cloths - they came in handy to wipe off my lens, which I did constantly between takes.

Moss-draped trees

Due to it's height, Elowah was a difficult waterfall to capture.  Not wanting to switch to a wide angle lens in the pouring rain, I had to make do with my 24-105mm.  To get the entire cascade in the frame required a bit of distance (aka "human zoom") and in this narrow canyon, there wasn't a lot of safe places to set up a tripod.  I tried balancing on a slippery slope above the splash pool, and when that didn't work, I set up on a creek bed below the footbridge.  

The lower creek

Rainy weather is good for only one thing - keeping the crowds away.  The entire time I spent at Elowah Falls only one other man shared this scenic little canyon space, and he didn't stay long.

Foggy forest

Despite the "liquid sunshine," my time at Elowah Falls was enjoyable.  But, finally tiring of the constant battle to keep my camera dry (and losing), I decided to pack up and head back to my car.

More bright leaves

Climbing back up through the lovely fall forest, I spotted a trail junction.  Another 3/4 mile climb would take me to a second impressive cascade - Upper McCord Creek Falls.  Should I go for it? 

Fog bank creeping into the Gorge

Well.....you know the answer.  Of course I took the upper path!  Several years had passed since I'd hiked up here and I was due for a return trip.

Interesting clouds

I climbed through more dense, foggy woods until topping off on a high ridge.  Gorge views opened up before me.  Despite the low clouds and fog rolling in, this lofty perch offered some great panoramas of the Columbia River's Washington side.  And all those clouds made for some fantastic photos.

Trail to Upper McCord Creek Falls

Beyond the viewpoints, the trail became a narrow ledge that appeared to have been blasted into the cliff side.  Wobbly metal handrails offered some protection (although I shied away and stayed near the rock walls). 

Good thing there's a railing!

But walking along this catwalk was kind of cool.  Although the fog was creeping in, I enjoyed more views across the Gorge's green slopes.  Approaching the canyon's end, I found myself looking down into Elowah Falls' mossy canyon, even spying the top of the waterfall itself!

Lovely Upper McCord Creek Falls

And then I came upon the lovely twin fans of Upper McCord Creek Falls.  Rushing over cliffs trimmed in fall hues, they were even prettier than I remembered. 

Old pipe crosses the trail

I had to photograph fast, as a fog bank was slowly creeping up the canyon.  Not five minutes after my arrival, the entire waterfall became masked by a wall of white.  About then a large group of hikers came tromping up the trail, and I smugly informed them they'd just missed seeing the falls.

Trailhead water tank

As I headed back down the trail, the rain decided it was time for an encore.  Trying to protect my camera from further dousing, I made a beeline for the trailhead without many photo breaks.  But despite the rain, an ancient wooden water tank adjacent to the parking lot caught my eye.  What photographer can resist capturing such a mossy, old structure?

Water spout

Fall is truly my favorite season to explore the Columbia River Gorge.  Although beautiful year-round, the palette of autumn colors, green mosses and ferns, and gushing waterfalls (not to mention the smaller crowds) makes this the prime time to experience the Gorge at its finest.


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