Wednesday, October 9, 2019

Beargrass Explosion!

In early summer, a creamy-colored poofy flower adorns the slopes of  the high Cascades.  Known as beargrass, this unusual plant carpets open meadows and forest floors.  Sought by photographers, a prolific bloom can make stunning scenic images.

Huge bloom on Santiam Pass

Monitoring several hiking and wildflower pages gives me a good idea what flowers are blooming and where.  In early July, I got a hot tip about a bountiful beargrass bloom on Santiam Pass.


Beargrass forever...

There's lots of myths about beargrass.  One of them is that it only blooms in abundance every 7 years.  Although mass blooms don't occur on an annual basis, (depends upon spring moisture) it seems every year there is always a good bloom happening someplace in the Oregon Cascade Mountains. 


Tuft close-up

The other beargrass myth is that bears like to eat the white tufts.  Sheep, deer, elk and goats are known to consume beargrass, but not bears.  However, bears do use the plant's leaves as denning material.


Forest floor covered with the stalks

This year the area around Santiam Pass won the beargrass jackpot.  Heading home from a 4th of July family camping trip, I convinced my hubby to make a stop at the PCT trailhead on Santiam Pass.  While he waited in the truck, I grabbed my camera and roamed around the adjacent woods.  The forest floor was absolutely covered with tall, beige, poofy stalks.  It was indeed a massive bloom. 


Mt Washington

Not only did I capture some great shots of the acres of beargrass, clear skies highlighted the adjacent mountain peaks.  Hello Mt Washington!


View from Coffin Mtn trail

Not only Santiam Pass, rumor had it nearby Coffin Mountain was also hosting a huge beargrass bloom.  After seeing several fabulous images posted on local hiking websites, I knew I had to go there.


Backlit poofs

So a week later, I woke up ungodly early on a Friday morning, and made the three-hour drive to Coffin Mtn trailhead.


Field on Coffin Mtn trail

The first mile there were a few nice patches of beargrass, but they looked tired and droopy.  Hoping I hadn't missed the peak bloom, I continued on my uphill climb.


Huge open beargrass field

After a mile, the trail emerged from the forest onto a wide, treeless meadow.  It was here that I saw what I'd been looking for.  The entire hillside was covered with beargrass poofs.  Acres and acres of fuzzy, beige flowers.  It was the most beargrass I'd ever seen in one location.
 

My "Sound of Music" moment

Oh my, it was phenomenal!  This was hands-down the highest concentration of beargrass I'd seen - ever!


Coffin Mtn Lookout

I slowly made my way to the very top, snapping copious images as I went.  Coffin Mountain has a fire lookout tower on it's summit.  However, on this day in early July it wasn't yet staffed. 


Beargrass surrounds the helipad

No matter, I sat on the helipad, surrounded by beargrass, and enjoyed a scenic lunch.


Dense concentration

My return trip took almost as long as my ascent.  Afternoon light made for some better images of this sea of beargrass, with Mt Jefferson a majestic backdrop.


Mt Jefferson and beargrass fields

It was hard to choose just one image, so my readers get two!


Coffin Mtn beargrass fields

After finishing the short trek up Coffin Mtn, I drove to nearby Bachelor Mtn.  Having time for another quick hike (and hoping for more beargrass sightings) I decided to explore this neighboring peak.  


Scarlet gilia on Bachelor Mtn

Although beargrass was nowhere close to matching Coffin Mtn in abundance, I did pass by a nice field of tomato-red Scarlet gilia.


Cascade lilies

And I found a few stalks of Cascade lilies.  The flowers were so fragrant!


Snowbrush

Fluffy white snowbrush was blooming everywhere.


Cascade lily

It was a steep, hot trek to Bachelor Mountain's summit.  I was beginning to wonder if this was worth the sweaty effort, when Mt Jefferson appeared over the horizon.  The summit had a front-row, million-dollar view of this lovely mountain.  Yes, it was worth it!


Mules ears flowers


On Bachelor Mtn summit

It was a good day.  I was able to catch the spectacular beargrass bloom on Coffin Mountain before it faded away.  I bagged two summits, and added two hikes to my "52 Hike Challenge" list.


Wednesday, October 2, 2019

First Day of Summer?

Know how you get Mt Hood's uber-popular Mirror Lake trail all to yourself?  Get up crazy early and pick a foggy, cold day.


Foggy forest

The short trail to Mirror Lake has a lot of bang for one's hiking buck.  That, and the trailhead's proximity to busy Highway 26 makes for easy access to the masses.  One of the busiest trails in the Mt Hood National Forest, the parking area adjacent to the highway would overflow on busy summer weekends.  For that reason, I'd only hiked this trail once many years ago, and had since avoided it like the plague.


Rhodies are out!

But this year the Forest Service closed the trailhead's highway-side location and relocated it adjacent to nearby Ski Bowl's parking lot.  Although adding two miles to the round-trip distance, it made for a larger and safer parking area.


No views at Mirror Lake

June 21st, my Friday off work, and the first day of summer.  I wanted to go hiking, but had a 1 pm appointment that afternoon.  Was there a short hike I could fit into a morning?  Then I remembered the Mirror Lake trail.  Interested in checking out the new parking area and expanded trail, I decided to give it a try.  However getting back in time for my appointment required an extremely early start.  Like arriving to the trailhead at 5:30.......am.


Friendly bunny

It wasn't easy but I got my sleepy butt out of bed and made the hour and 1/2 drive to Mt Hood.  I had the honor of being the second car in the parking area.  Upon exiting my car, I was surprised by the extremely cold air.  It was a foggy, bone-chilling 39 degrees outside.  Wait a minute, wasn't this supposed to be the first day of summer?


Beargrass!

Pulling out knit hat and gloves from my backpack, I bundled up in my winter coat and headed down the new trail.  It had rained the night before, and the adjacent forest dripped with cold precip.  Sure didn't feel like the first day of summer!


The rhodie show continues

The first mile of new trail was sort of boring.  It wound through unremarkable forest.  But after reconnecting with the old trailhead, I climbed through a mass of rhododendron bushes.  And began to see pink blooms peeping through their waxy green leaves.


Lots of green

Mirror Lake was another uphill mile.  Famous for it's stunning Mt Hood reflection, I was disappointed to find it shrouded in heavy fog.  I could barely see across the lake, let alone glimpse the mountain!


Rain-dappled rhodie blooms

I took the short trail that circled the lake anyway.  Although camping is allowed near the shore, I didn't see a soul.  The only sign of life was an extremely tame rabbit, who didn't seem to mind this camera-wielding lady.


Crossing a foggy talus slope

Beyond Mirror Lake, the trail continued another two miles to the summit of Tom, Dick and Harry Mountain.  Lacking any views, I almost considered turning around.  But...the exercise would do me good and I still had plenty of time.  So upward I went!


I couldn't stop taking flower photos

This turned out to be the best part of the entire trail.  Beyond Mirror Lake, rhodies were blooming profusely.  The trail was absolutely lined with hundreds of lovely pink blossoms. 


Lovely forest

The fog, which I'd cursed for blocking mountain views at Mirror Lake, actually made great light for photographing the green and pink colors in the forest.  And, best of all, the entire trip to the summit I didn't see another person.


No views today

Arriving at Tom, Dick and Harry Mountain's summit, I was greeted with a thick fog bank.  Nope, no views for me today!


First day of summer?

An extremely chilly wind was blowing at the summit.  I bundled up, pulling jacket hood over my head.  Lingering long enough for a couple of photos and quick snack, I decided to beat a hasty retreat to lower elevations with (hopefully) warmer temps.

This was supposed to be the first day of summer?  The weather gods must've missed the memo.


Blooms below the summit were especially pink

Back into the forest, I came upon some newly-bloomed rhodies that were an incredibly vibrant shade of pink.  Then I ran into a large group of people - the first hikers I'd encountered all morning.


Bunchberry

As I made my way back towards Mirror Lake, I noticed the fog beginning to lift.  Passing through a talus slope about halfway down, I noticed the adjacent forest and hills could now be seen. 


Clearing skies on the way down

Back at Mirror Lake, I passed by two unused campsites that were packed with rhodie and beargrass blooms.  Oh my, this warranted an extended photo stop!


Rhodie explosion at Mirror Lake

The fog was beginning to clear from the adjacent peaks.  Was I able to stick around longer, I probably would've gotten some mountain views.  But, looking at the time, I knew I had to hustle if I wanted to make my afternoon appointment.


Beargrass was also going strong

Quickly descending, I began to encounter other hikers - lots of hikers!  Seemed half of Portland had decided to visit Mirror Lake.  At first, I said hello to everyone I passed.  But as I drew closer to the trailhead, the sheer volume of people began to wear me down.  It was like a superhighway!  I got tired of stepping to the side to let groups of hikers pass.  By the time I reached the trailhead, I remembered why I hadn't hiked this trail in several years. 


Last glimpse of Mirror Lake

I reached my car right at my designated departure time.  Delayed by a traffic jam on the way home, I arrived home with just enough time to change clothes before rushing off to my appointment.  But I made it with five minutes to spare!

Glad I was able to fit in the morning trek.  Getting up early had it's advantages, with empty trails on normally popular hikes.  Although the weather was less than perfect, at least it wasn't beastly hot.  All in all, not a bad start to summer.  (But the fog can clear up anytime now........)


Sunday, September 22, 2019

Hiking Montana's Mt. Sentinel

Ok, time to rewind back to early June.  Heading home from South Dakota, I normally rush through the long 2-day drive.  But this year I took a break on my return trip and stopped in Missoula, Montana to spend time with my son.


Kim Williams Nature Trail along the Clark Fork River

Situated in a valley, Missoula is ringed by mountains.  Hiking opportunities abound - many boasting trailheads right inside the city limits.  With an entire day to spend together, my son suggested hiking the trails on Missoula's iconic Mt Sentinel. 
 

Cool looking mystery flowers

Mt Sentinel is a small mountain that rises directly east of the University of Montana's campus.  A large whitewashed concrete letter "M" occupies it's western face (the "M" of course placed in honor of the University).  Prominently viewed from all over town, the mountain and it's "M" are Missoula landmarks.


Arnica blooms lined the Hellgate Canyon Trail


A steep trail zig-zags 3/4 of a mile up Mt Sentinel's west face to access the "M."  It's a popular route for students, tourists, runners, and folks wanting a good workout.  Throughout the years my son attended college at the University I'd made several ascents of this trail.  But today my son had a different access route in mind. 


Taking a breather

An entire network of trails link Mt Sentinel with nearby mountains and natural areas.  My son suggested accessing Mt Sentinel via some of these trails.  We'd start out following the Kim Williams Nature trail, then climb up Hellgate Canyon via a trail of the same name.  Eventually this trail would intersect with Mt Sentinel's trail, which we'd follow to the top and then descend the opposite side.


Grand views of East Missoula and I-90

The morning of our planned hike, we awoke to heavy clouds and rain.  The day's forecast, which called for showers, didn't look promising.  But we're both from Oregon - what's a little rain?  After grabbing our rain jackets and pack covers my son drove to the east side of the University of Montana campus, the trailhead location.


Crazy Canyon sounds like my kinda place  :)

 Lucky for us, by the time we parked, the rain had let up.  Not one to waste a dry spell, my son and I quickly grabbed our backpacks and headed towards our starting point at the Kim Williams Nature Trail. 


Patiently waiting for mom to finish taking pictures...

The Kim Williams trail started out paved, but quickly transitioned into a gravel road paralleling the beautiful Clark Fork River.  Before long, my son and I had left the city behind and were walking beside this peaceful, forested waterway.  Birds chirped, and I spotted several varieties of colorful wildflowers.


Looking across the canyon to University Beacon Hill

The Hellgate Canyon trail junction was supposed to be a mile down the Kim Williams trail, but it wasn't marked, so we walked right it by the first time.  Luckily, my son quickly realized our oversight, and we didn't have to backtrack too much.


Nice patch of Indian Paintbrush

 Let the climbing begin!  The Hellgate Canyon trail rocketed steeply uphill.  My son didn't have any trouble, but I huffed and puffed behind him, trying to keep up.  Happily, there were lots of colorful wildflowers to distract me from my discomfort.  Copious amounts of sunny yellow arnica blooms lined our trail, brightening the forest floor.


Three shades of orange paintbrush!

The clouds began thickening again.  It appeared to be raining on an adjacent mountain.  I was getting concerned we'd get wet.  But the rain stayed north of us.  However, I thought I heard a distant thunder boom, which worried me immensely (last thing I wanted was to be high on a mountain during a lightening storm).  But my son denied hearing anything, so we continued our upward trek.


Balsamroot blooms

After a long climb, we finally arrived at the Mt Sentinel Trail junction.  And unlike our lower trail, this one was well-marked with a large wooden sign.  Noting a "Crazy Canyon trailhead" written on one side made me chuckle.  I'd love to hear how that canyon got it's name!


Flowers decorate this fallen tree

Only a half mile to the top of Mt Sentinel from here.  Piece of cake!  But this trail wound through some of the loveliest wildflower meadows.  Lupine, Indian paintbrush, yellow balsamroot all bloomed thickly on the forest floor.  My poor son had to do a lot of waiting for his mother while she attempted to photograph it all.


Flower-lined path

The Indian paintbrush here sported three different hues of orange - a dark orange, a medium (normal) orange color, and a light peach shade.  It was unusual and beautiful.


Flower-dazzled meadow

 But my son was eventually able to tear his camera-toting mother away from all the colorful meadows (reluctantly, I'll add!).


The best flower fields were right below the summit

The final trail to the top was a extremely steep trudge up a rocky road.  I didn't think I'd ever arrive, but suddenly up ahead my son stopped.  He'd made it to the summit.  I got this great shot of him taking in the view.


Mt Sentinel summit

And what a tremendous view it was!  Looking west, all of Missoula spread out below.  Despite cloudy skies, we could see for miles across the valley.


Smile!

Mt. Sentinel's summit sits at an elevation of 5,158 feet, nearly 2000 feet above the valley below.


Photo op with my son

There wasn't much to see at the summit itself, so my son and I hiked a short distance down the other side before posing for the obligatory "We made it" photo.



Descending the west side

Then.....what comes up must go down.  And down we went, descending another steep trail.  Good thing I brought my trekking poles, they saved my knees!


Lupine was everywhere!

But of course this trail had more floral distractions, in the form of lupine and larkspur.  Oh was the lupine thick and such a deep shade of purple!  My poor son had to wait for me once again.



Abandoned copper mine

My son led me through the wide-open grassy meadows of Mt Sentinel's west flanks.  With no trees, the views were tremendous.  We could see clouds gathering all around us, but so far none of the wet stuff had traveled to our location.  We passed by an old, long-abandoned copper mine, which I thought unusual to see so close to town.


I spied some bitterroot blooms!

Passing by a rocky outcrop, I noticed a few pink petals.  A dozen bitterroot flowers were pushing out from between the rocks.  Montana's state flower, their petals were a lovely shade of pink.  Rare to see - I was psyched to have discovered them.


Views for miles

As the trail descended through Mt Sentinel's grassy slopes, my son and I were treated to birds-eye views of the University of Montana's beautiful campus.  It was fun to point out the dorms he'd lived in, the campus quad, and the football stadium.  Go Griz!


University of Montana football stadium

The University's concrete "M" sits about halfway up Mt Sentinel's slopes.  As we approached this landmark, I noticed clouds to the north getting extremely dark.  It looked like rain was hovering over the adjacent mountain range.  Our dry weather luck was running out.


Bad weather moving in

Upon reaching the "M" I paused to snap a couple of photos, but lacking a wide-angle lens, they didn't come close to capturing the immense size of this letter. 


Extreme close up of the "M"

But a storm was definitely moving in, so after getting my images, I packed the camera away and hightailed it down the remainder of the trail.  The final photo I captured showed clouds lowering ominously over the valley.  Surprisingly, we met quite a few people going the other direction, either not aware or not caring about the approaching rain.


Racing the storm to the parking lot

Timing is everything - we just barely got inside my son's car when the heavens opened up.  It rained hard for the rest of the day.  Lucky us, we got our hike done during the only dry weather window.

It was fantastic to have a day to hike with my son.  Between me forgetting my gps, and his phone battery dying we weren't quite sure of the total mileage, but after consulting his hiking book, I'm going with about 7 miles and 2000 feet elevation gain.  And lots of wonderful memories.