Italy Day Three - A Fine Stroll Around Venice

  (A multi-part recap of my mid-April to early May Italy trip.)

After a restful night with no mosquitos (despite the stuffiness of our room, Kim and I learned from our previous night's mistake and kept the windows shut tight) we awoke not quite as early, eager to explore more of Venice.  After meeting up with Debbie for breakfast, we three ladies headed out on the town.

Apparently not everyone in Venice likes tourists

During yesterday's wanderings we'd noticed several shops selling a colorful selection of leather goods.  Italy is known for producing high-quality leather, so first thing that morning my friends and I dropped into a shop near our hotel to browse a bit.

Leather shop finds

So many tempting items!  There were purses, larger bags, wallets of all sizes, belts, even adorable coin purses in animal shapes.  Many of these items came in a rainbow of different colors.  Oh what to buy?

A very colorful leather shop

To the delight of the clerk, all three of us ended up making purchases.  Kim and Debbie bought purses, while I chose a belt for my dear hubby.  We all were sorely tempted to add more items to our bags, but it was early in our trip and no one wanted to lug too much merchandise around for three weeks.

Kim tries to hold up the tower

After our shopping spree, we dropped our bags back at the hotel.  Where to go next?  Kim, being interested in art, suggested we check out the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.  Debbie and I were all for that, so after getting our bearings via Google maps, we headed out again into the narrow alleyways of Venice.

More beautiful bridges 

Google had us retracting our route from the first day's hunt for a happy hour spot.  Back we went through three piazzas (plazas), one giving a nice view of the leaning Santo Stefano bell tower.  This was the campanile (bell tower) that had befuddled Kim and had her searching for its base.  In her honor, Debbie and I nicknamed it the "leaning tower of Kim" and had her strike a few poses pretending to brace the structure on its tilted side.

Sights from the Accademia Bridge

My friends and I wandered past the same quaint, tiny bridges crossing small canals, past several churches, and the beautiful flower market, until we came to the Accademia Bridge once again.  A delightful wooden arched structure, it was one of only four bridges spanning Venice's Grand Canal.  Two day's before we'd only walked up to its approach.  Now, with Debbie in the lead, we all climbed up its steep steps to the midway point high over the water.

Lots of people out paddling in small boats

The Accademia Bridge was a popular place for tourists and locals alike.  Fighting the crowds of people jockeying for photos, my friends and I squeezed into a small opening at the railing and took in the Grand canal views.  Weather-worn buildings lined both shores.  Boats of all shapes and sizes motored through the water.  I watched a fleet of human-powered watercraft skim by, their oars manned by a crew of 4 or 5 people.  Not sure if it was a race or just a rowing club out for a Sunday excursion.

Boat close-up

Gotta do a bridge selfie!

When we'd all gotten enough photographs, my friends and I trooped down the Accademia Bridge to the Grand Canal's opposite shore.  Then following directions on Kim's phone, we three ladies entered the tight alleyways of another densely-packed neighborhood.

Neighborhood canal

This area didn't appear to be quite as touristy as the streets around our hotel or St. Mark's Square, where we'd spent the previous day.  

Some fancy gondolas

But.....there were still gondolas scattered about the side canals, all offering rides.

Debbie and Kim check out a souvenir kiosk

And in one little piazza we came upon a large kiosk selling all sorts of cheap, tacky souvenirs.

These cisterns are all over Venice

One of the things I noticed in Venice was that nearly every public square had an elaborately sculpted cistern.  Because the city was surrounded by a saltwater lagoon, supplying fresh water was an issue.  In Venice's early days, city leaders engineered and built a massive system of cisterns to catch, filter, and store rainwater.  Each cistern had a large underground chamber filled with sand that naturally purified the rainwater.  The filtered water then collected in a central, brick-lined shaft for storage.  Although Venice now gets their water via an aqueduct from the mainland, the city has kept these now abandoned cisterns in place for ornamental and historical purposes. 

Lovely wisteria growing over a wall

From another piazza, my friends and I followed a local canal, lined by more crumbling buildings.  A huge wisteria tree towered above one arched doorway, its stunning purple flowers draped over both the archway and its adjacent brick wall.

Peggy  Guggenheim museum entrance

Not far from that beautiful wisteria tree we came upon another, flowers cascading over an open doorway.  This was the entrance to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, our morning's destination.

In the museum's outside garden

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection is an art museum located in Peggy's former home on the Grand Canal.  A niece of the mining magnate Solomon R. Guggenheim, Peggy was an art enthusiast, buying pieces from many well-known artists, such as Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali.  She displayed this expansive personal collection in her home, an 18th-century palace, where she lived for three decades.  Upon Peggy's death in 1979, she donated her home and its 300-piece art collection to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation.  The foundation now operates this museum, and under their guidance it has become the most visited art gallery in Venice.

 

Lotti's favorite sculpture

After paying our entrance fee, my friends and I wandered into a large courtyard that was beautifully landscaped.  We noticed a few sculptures scattered about the immediate area, dutifully checked them out, and snapped photos of our favorites.

Time to check out the artwork inside

After exploring the courtyard, it was time to go inside the main gallery building.  Although the place was fairly busy, my friends and I were able to squeeze past the more crowded areas and see some of the paintings.

A colorful painting

Kim and Debbie were much more well-versed in art than myself.  But despite my lack of art knowledge, I really enjoyed all the paintings, especially the ones from such famous artists as Picasso and Dali.

 

Decorative window ironwork

The building that housed Peggy's art collection was also beautifully decorated.  I really loved the intricate ironwork the covered many of the windows.

Kim and Debbie check out a painting

I think they like it

Very interesting paintings

Although the museum's artwork collection was impressive, my favorite part of the place was its expansive terrace fronting the Grand Canal.  After we'd seen everything inside, my friends and I headed outdoors to check it out.

The art museum had a patio overlooking the Grand Canal

This terrace had the best views of the Grand Canal.  In one direction, I could spot the Accademia Bridge, it's wooden span hanging in the air, and in the other direction was the Doge palace, and the Grand Canal's intersection with St. Mark's Basin.  It was fun to watch the boat traffic motoring through the canal's waters.

Colorful buildings along the canal

I also enjoyed the water-level vantage we had of all the buildings along the Grand Canal.  Although most were colorfully painted, all looked very weathered, especially the lowest floors that were directly above the water's surface.  I wondered what it would be like to live in a building where the basement is in the water.  How do these buildings not decay and fall into the canal?  Maintenance must be ongoing and expensive.

Lots of greenery on this property

Later research revealed an answer to my question of building stability.  All of Venice's structures rest on millions of wooden piles driven deep into the marshy lagoon floor.  Because these piles, composed mostly of oak, larch and pine, are entirely submerged in waterlogged ground devoid of oxygen, the wood has petrified over the years, protecting it from decay.

 

Photo of the girls

The museum even had signage visible from the canal side.  A good photo op, I thought!

Lots of people enjoying themselves outside

After spending several wonderful minute lounging on the museum's terrace, taking in the Grand Canal scene, my friends and I headed back through the main building and into the courtyard.  After a quick potty break and trip through the gift shop, we exited the Peggy Guggenheim property through a side entrance that spit us into a narrow alley.

The museum's back alley entrance

After winding through more crowded alleyways, over a couple more canals, we came out into a small plaza area with a tiny green park in it's very center.  What a fun find in the middle of such a densely populated area!

Tiny park in the middle of a neighborhood

Then it was back into the maze of narrow, crowded alleys.  We passed a few interesting doors - one for a private home (I think) and another for a neighborhood church.

Interesting home entrance

I loved the door to this church

After a bit more walking, my friends and I emerged onto a wide plaza along the Grand Canal.  It was situated in front of a huge white marble Cathedral.

Wide plaza in front of La Salute Church

Gondolas lined the waterfront across the plaza.  Gondoliers, in their striped shirts, lounged along the water's edge, waiting for customers.

Gondoliers waiting for some business

Instead of giving scenic canal rides, we found out these particular gondolas offered transport directly across to the Grand Canal's other side.  They loaded up to 10 people on one gondola and ferried them all to the opposite shoreline.  Looking at those overcrowded boats listing low on the water, I decided I definitely didn't want to cross the canal in that manner.

Some gondolas were shuttling people across the canal

Although the overloaded gondolas were interesting (and a bit scary) to watch, my main attention was diverted to the grand Basilica rising above the plaza.  This enormous, white marble structure was called the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute (the English translation - St. Mary of Health.)  Constructed between 1631 and 1687, this church was an offering to the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the bubonic plague of 1630-31, which wiped out nearly a third of the population.

The Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

Once finished, the Basilica's twin domes soon became an iconic part of the Venice skyline.  Situated near where the Grand Canal meets St. Mark's Basin, it was highly visible to boat traffic entering the city.  So beloved by Venice citizens, every November 21st they celebrate a special festival of health.  The city constructs a floating pontoon bridge across the Grand Canal, allowing pilgrims to walk to the Basilica to light candles and pray in thanksgiving.

The Basilica was adorned with beautiful sculptures

This massive structure was built upon a platform made of one million wooden piles.  It's exterior was comprised of Istrian stone and brick covered in marble dust.  Sculptures of important saints perched high above the pavement.  I gaped in wonder at this gigantic, but beautiful church.  It was so large, I couldn't fit the entire building in my camera lens from where I stood.

Inside the Basilica was even better

Of course my friends and I wanted to check out the interior.  It being Sunday, we weren't sure if there was a mass going on, but luckily the church was open and there weren't any services happening at the time.

Ornate main altar

The Basilica's inside was opulently decorated.  Statues, paintings, golden fixtures, marble columns, ornate altars, intricate metalwork - this church had it all.  I later read that many of the works of art inside the Basilica have references to the great plague.  

Table of votive candles

The octagonal center of the Basilica was surrounded by eight chapels ringing the outer walls.  The dome rose high above my head, 230 feet above the street level outside.  A large tray of votive candles flickered in the dim light.  I walked around and tried in vain to capture some of the most impressive parts - but it was all breathtaking.

Beautiful side altar

Interesting light fixture

Looking up towards the dome

After several minutes of walking and gaping, my friends and I exited the Basilica and continued our walk, heading towards the very end of the Grand Canal, a place where it met up with the main lagoon.  

Nice views of the Doge Palace and Campanile 

Looking across the water gave us some nice views of the Doge Palace and Campanile bell tower, which we'd toured the previous day.

A photo op moment!

The point at which the Grand Canal meets St. Mark's Basin

Then we came to the point where our walkway ended - at a literal point!  One side was the Grand Canal, the other St. Mark's Basin and the open water of the lagoon.

A view of San Giorgio Maggiore across St. Mark's Basin

Looking across the lagoon gave a nice view of the San Giorgio Maggiore island, dominated by it's own grand church and bell tower.  From my vantage point, it looked like all the buildings were floating atop the water's surface.

 

Promenade along the St. Mark's Basin side

A pedestrian path continued on the lagoon side.  It looked interesting so my friends and I decided to see where it took us.

Adorable local canal

We walked along a crumbling brick wall, the backside of the Basilica domes rising high above.  We passed a dock area with several weathered pilings sticking out of the water.  And best of all, we crossed a adorable arched brick bridge spanning a cute local canal.  So many photo ops! 

We came upon this restaurant and decided to give it a try

It was nearly lunchtime, and everyone was getting hungry.  Passing by a large umbrella-covered restaurant suspended over the water, we stopped to look at the posted menu.  It looked like a nice place to rest and have a bite, so we all decided why not?

Salute!

What a good decision!  Not only were the views and overall atmosphere top-notch, the service and food were also great.  All three of us ordered pasta dishes and they were simply delicious.  My friends and I toasted to our good fortune of finding this place.  I had to pinch myself - here I was in Venice, Italy enjoying a great lunch with spectacular views.  Perfetto!

What magnificent views!

Lotti samples my wine

Our food was excellent

After a long, relaxing lunch my friends and I reluctantly paid our checks and left our perfect restaurant spot.  We then retraced our steps back down the promenade towards the Basilica.

Series of old piers

Gondolas this way!

Tailing Kim and Debbie back down the narrow alleyways, I snapped photos as I went.  Some of the apartment balconies had the prettiest plants and flowers.

I really liked all the plants in some of the balconies

Another colorful balcony

Debbie and Kim looking at jewelry

Debbie had spotted a ring she really liked earlier in a jewelry shop, so as we passed by a second time, she and Kim went inside for a better look.  Waiting outside for my friends, I couldn't resist a photo of them both by the store window, contemplating a purchase.  (By the way, Debbie did end up buying the ring she'd been eyeing.)

Another look back at where we'd been

On top of the Accademia Bridge again, I looked back down the Grand Canal, towards the domes of the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute.  I had been there!  And had the photos to prove it.

All types of watercraft on the Grand canal

Across the Accademia Bridge, my friends and I noticed a tall, golden sculpture in the courtyard of an adjacent restaurant.  It was made of long, twisted blown glass strands, radiating out from a central column.  Later I learned this fabulous work of art was created by the famous artist Dale Chihuly.  Venice had surprises every time you turned a corner!

A gorgeous Chihuly glass sculpture

Later that afternoon it was time to finally meet our tour group.  Kim, Debbie, and I had signed up for a 17-day "Best of Italy" tour that would hit most of the bucket list highlights of this country.  We gathered in a nearby restaurant and met our other tour-mates - 25 of us in all.  Most of them were from the US (surprisingly six other folks were from Oregon!) and one couple was Canadian.  

Our guide and assistant guide introduced themselves and the main guide (going forward I'm referring to this person as "MG" for "main guide") talked for much longer than they needed to.  But there were plenty of prosecco bottles on the table, so Debbie and I refilled our glasses a couple of times, and that helped get us through their dull introduction speech.

Evening Venice tour with our group

After all the instructions had been imparted by our MG, we split into two groups for a quick walking tour of Venice.  Our group was assigned a nice local woman, whose name I can't now remember, and she expertly led us through the crowded alleyways, pointing out interesting things as she went.

Some local appetizers 

Our group took a short break at a local wine bar where we were served a glass of the local vino and a couple of small appetizers.  One was some type of fried meat ball (which was tasty but I didn't get any photos of it) and the other was a small chunk of bread topped with a pickled sardine and tons of onions.  When traveling in another country, I usually try the local cuisine - but onions and I do not get along.  I ended up brushing the onions off to bravely sample the tiny fish, but since I am not fond of pickled anything, it got tossed in the trash very quickly.

In some parts authorities filled in corners to prevent people from hiding here

Wine and appetizers mostly consumed, our guide resumed our Venice tour.  She pointed out small concrete blocks filling in some of the street corners.  Apparently is was to prevent people from hiding in the dark corners and doing bad things.  I'd never seen that in any other city before.

 

Learning about Venice from our guide

Mask shops seemed to be everywhere in Venice, and our local guide took us past several.  So unusual and colorful, I couldn't resist snapping yet more images.

I loved all the ornate masks!

Our tour concluded at St. Mark's Square.  By now it was near sunset, and the sinking sun lit up the Campanile tower beautifully.  It practically glowed in the soft light.

The Campanile glows in evening light

I spotted this young child in St. Mark's Square wearing one of the fancy Venice party masks and just had to take a photo.

A youngster modeling their mask

The winged lion is a symbol of Venice.  I noticed a winged lion sculpture on a high pedestal perched over the Pizzetta by the Doge Palace.  It also looked nice in the fading day's light.

The winged lion sculpture over the Pizzetta

Our tour group walking through St. Mark's Square

Even at this late hour, there was so much to see in St. Mark's Square!  It was still crowded with people - and people watching was the best entertainment there was.  I could've stayed in St. Mark's all evening, but our tour had a light dinner planned at a nearby restaurant.  So after a short break to take in the sights, we were on the move again.

Photobomb!

Kim and I were snapping selfies as we walked away from the square.  I didn't realize it until after I'd clicked my phone camera's shutter, but tour-mate Monica had snuck up from behind and totally photobombed me.  Sharing my sense of humor, I liked her already!  Laughing, I told Monica we'd get along just fine.

A lone gondolier paddles home

On our way to the restaurant, we passed by a large white building with several flags atop its upper balcony.  Our guide told us this was the Phoenix Theatre, or Teatro La Fenice Venice, one of the world's most famous opera houses.  Burned to ashes by catastrophic fires in both 1836 and 1996, this venue lived up to its name.

The Phoenix Theatre - a historic Venice Opera House

Once arriving at the chosen restaurant, my friends and I ended our third day in Venice with a dish of risotto and yet more wine! 

Another fun day in the books!

It had been another fantastic day of exploration while strolling the streets of Venice.  Tomorrow our tour would officially begin with another walking tour in a different part of town.  I couldn't wait!  Coming soon - my next post will recap photos and commentary from day four.