Coastal Sweden and Oslo

 (A multi-part recap of my early June Scandinavia trip.)

Norway here we come!

On the 9th day of my Rick Steves Scandinavia tour, our day's destination was the Norwegian capital city of Oslo.  But first we had to do a bit more traveling through coastal Sweden.

Walking to see the Vitlycke Rock Carvings

After our one night stay in a quirky Lenin-themed hotel, we loaded up our bus and bid the Swedish coastal town of Varberg goodbye.  Although it would take most of the day to reach Oslo, guide Nina had broken our travel up with two scheduled stops along the way - the Tanum World Heritage Center and fishing village of Grebbestad.

Looking at the Vitlycke Panel

One nice thing about the Rick Steves tours I've traveled with - after about two hours on the bus our driver would stop to allow a leg stretch and restroom break.  To avoid the cold that was circulating amongst some of our tour-mates, my friends and I chose to sit in the back and mask up.  The only downside of this seating location was every time we stopped to use the facilities, my friends and I were the last ones off, and ended up at the rear of the ladies room line.  Burning so many precious minutes "taking care of business" didn't leave us much time to grab a drink or snack.

The carvings were painted red for better visibility

Today's morning rest stop was at a roadside gas station and convenience store.  Directly adjacent to it's parking lot was a coffee shop.  I suggested to my friends that instead of standing in the long ladies line at the gas station, why didn't we use the coffee shop's restrooms?  And as a bonus, we could get ourselves some decent espresso drinks and avoid the icky convenience store coffee.  So after hopping off the bus, Kim, Debbie, Alicia and myself hightailed it across the parking lot to the coffee shop.  Our plan worked like a charm.  The "WCs" had no line, giving us plenty of time to nab a latte and pastry before we had to get back on the bus.

Ships?

With an empty bladder and full latte in hand, I was ready for our tour's next stop, the Tanum World Heritage Center.

This one looked like a war ship

Situated in far west Sweden, this UNESCO World Heritage site was home to sheets of granite bedrock carved by Bronze Age artists, depicting numerous images - humans, animals, ships, weapons, rituals, and symbols from these ancient peoples.

Lotti takes in the carvings

Upon our arrival at the Tanum World Heritage Center, my friends and I did a quick trip through the visitor center, and then headed over to see the rock carvings.

The Vitlycke Panel was full of petroglyphs

There were several granite outcrops bearing petroglyphs scattered throughout this forested area, but the largest one, called the Vitlycke Panel, had the highest concentration of rock carvings.  My friends and I followed a short path that took us to this famous panel first.

So many to see!

What an amazing sight!  We came upon a huge flat outcrop of granite chock full of ancient images.  To allow for better visibility, the site caretakers had painted the carvings red.  The rock face was so concentrated with etchings, it was hard to decide what to see (and photograph) first.

Another rock with ancient carvings

Ship images dominated this rock, followed by people - warriors, fisherman, a bridal couple.  There were also circles, footprints, weapons, nets, ploughs, and plenty of animal symbols.  There was another large group tour here at the same time taking up most of the viewing area, so I had to wait a bit for them to finish.  But once they finally moved on, my tour-mates and I had a good long look at this spectacular bit of ancient history.

The place had a nice boardwalk through the forest

Not much is known about the people who made the rock carvings.  It's been determined that these petroglyphs date back to the Nordic Bronze Age (1700 - 500 BC.)  Researchers think the carvings were created by chipping and grinding the rock using stone hammers and points.  They believe the locations of these rock panels were supposed to convey messages, designating these as areas of worship and cult activities.

Tour-mate Rodney looking at the carvings

From the large Vitlycke Panel, a boardwalk led visitors uphill past a few other smaller granite outcrops with images carved into them.  I wandered amongst these and enjoyed the surrounding quiet forest.

One of the carvings is on the 50 kronor note

One image in particular was famous for having its likeness displayed on the Swedish 50 kronor note.

It was a picture of three closely positioned ships.  Although an interesting image, I wasn't sure out of all the amazing rock carvings displayed here, why this specific petroglyph got the nod.

The famous carving

Of course like all of the places visited on our Rick Steves tour, we didn't have nearly enough time to fully explore this interesting historical area.  After rushing through the main petroglyph area and taking lots of frantic photographs, it was time to reboard our bus for the next destination.

Wild roses blooming in Grebbestad

Our midday stop was the Everts Sjöbod boathouse in the coastal fishing village of Grebbestad.  A local fisherman operated this business that included a small restaurant, bed and breakfast, and offered boat tours of the nearby Bohuslän archipelago.  A boat ride and seafood lunch were planned for our group. 

The first group embarking on their boat ride

Grebbestad turned out to be a pretty little hamlet situated along the North Sea shoreline.  The houses were trim, neat structures, all white with red roofs, and wild roses bloomed profusely amongst the windswept sea grasses.  Our lunch spot was located inside an old boathouse built in the 1800s that had been lovingly restored.

Our group got to eat lunch first

Because the boat for our afternoon ride could only hold 12 passengers at a time, Nina split our group in two.  Half would do the boat ride first, while he other half would sit down for lunch.  Then we'd switch.

We were served an amazing mussel stew

There were several people in our tour nervous about getting seasick on the boat ride, so they all opted to do it first before eating lunch.  Since my friends and I had no such issues, we were put in the second group.  That meant we got first dibs on the food!

The dining area was a lovely place

Lunch was fabulous.  Ushered up to the boathouse's second floor, we found tables set and a buffet taking up the room's far end.  I filled my plate with salad and warm, fresh bread.  Then I returned to get a bowl full of hot mussel stew.  Everything was absolutely delicious!

Time to eat!

The ladies doing the serving were so friendly and helpful.  They delivered our alcoholic (or not) beverages of choice, and kept the buffet line well stocked.  Such a warm and welcoming place, I felt right at home.

One of our wonderful hosts

After stuffing ourselves with the wonderful lunch offerings, we waddled downstairs to get dessert - warm apple cake with real whipped cream.  Along with our cake there was tea and coffee to wash it all down.  I didn't think I had the stomach space to fit dessert, but of course I found room.

Bus driver Roger relaxing in the sun after lunch

After enjoying our cake and tea, several of us sat outside at the dock taking in the water views.  The weather was absolutely perfect - clear blue skies with just a tiny bit of chill in the air.  And no wind!

Waiting for our turn to ride the boat

View across the harbor

Everts Sjöbod boathouse

My friends and I spent a delightful 10 minutes or so sitting outside near the dock.  Then we spotted the fisherman's wooden boat loaded with half our tour-mates motoring back.  

Here comes the first group!

The boat silently slid into it's spot on the dock.  Judging by the smiles on everyone's faces it looked like my tour-mates had a good time.  Once the first group had deboarded it was our turn.

A bunch of happy sailors

My friends and I climbed into the fishing boat.  The captain had installed cushioned benches along the boat's bow and most of us found a spot to sit down.  After everyone from group two had loaded and Nina snapped a few quick photos, our captain gave a brief safety talk.  Then, we were off!

Our turn for the boat ride!

The fishing boat we were riding in was a beauty.  It was built of shiny wood and had a mast (I assumed it could be sailed on windy days.)  But due to today's lack of wind, our captain exclusively used the boat's electric motor.  

Nina captured a group picture before we departed

Our boat quietly slid away from the dock and into the calm waters of the Bohuslän Archipelago.  The coastline adjacent to Grebbestad was protected by the many granite islands that formed this particular archipelago.  

Homes among the granite rocks

We motored by the first few rocky islands and these had homes, boathouses and docks attached.  On this lovely sunny day, they looked like wonderful places to live.  However, I'm sure in the dark, rainy days of winter it was quite a different story.

Beautiful day for a boat ride!

Camera in hand, I wandered to the back of the boat to get some shots of the town of Grebbestad, slowly shrinking as we headed out towards sea.

Grebbestad view from the water

Cameras were out in full force!

I couldn't have asked for nicer weather to be out on a boat.  The sun was shining, lighting up the water a brilliant shade of blue.  The lack of wind meant calm waters - no seasickness to worry about!  And the scenery was nothing short of spectacular.  Everyone had their phones out are were snapping photos like crazy.

Weathered building

We passed by a few granite islands with weathered buildings sited next to the water.  Some had large racks that looked like they were used to dry fish.  I assumed these places were used to store the fisherman's catches.

Boat seating area

Our boat weaved between many granite islands

Our captain steered his boat around and between the many granite islands, large and small, that made up the Bohuslän Archipelago.  Although a bit stark looking, the rocks were quite a photogenic backdrop.

My happy tour-mates!

Our boat captain was a great guy

Our boat captain was the nicest man.  He was more than happy to answer any questions we had.  I asked about the type of fish caught locally.  When in season, the captain said he fishes for mackerel, crab, and lobster.  I later learned that the sea outside of Grebbestad is the deepest, saltiest, and most species-rich water in all of Sweden.  Ninety percent of Sweden's oysters come from Grebbestad, and they claim these oysters are the best in the world.  Also, 50% of the lobster in Sweden comes from the waters of the Bohuslän Archipelago.

Alicia hanging out with our fellow tour folks

Some homes tucked beside a large granite hill

Lotti wanted to steer the boat

Not only was our captain friendly and willing to answer all our questions, he also let us take photo ops steering the boat's wheel.  My Swiss cow Lotti was the first to take advantage of his kind offer.

But she needed a little help from me

Of course, she's so small I had to help Lotti handle the boat.  

The scenery was spectacular!

It was such a pleasant afternoon sail.  The landscapes were so beautiful I took copious photos, both from my phone and camera.  I was having such a great time, I didn't want the ride to ever end.

Heading back towards our dock

But after about 45 minutes, the familiar shoreline of Grebbestad came back into view.  We motored past a large campground, full of tents and rv's, and then past a line of red buildings, all with docks jutting out into the water.

Alicia is having a great time

And just before our boat turned back towards its dock, we spotted two kayakers nearby paddling their crafts through the beautiful blue sea.  Due to calm waters sheltered by the archipelago islands, this area was an ideal spot for human-powered water sports, such as kayaking and stand up paddleboarding.

Two kayakers in the harbor

What a wonderful place!  The boat ride had been amazing - one of the highlights of my Rick Steves tour.  The captain was such a great guy.  And the hospitality shown by our lunch servers was exceptional.  A fabulous example of the Swedish people's warmth and generosity.

Crossing the Svinesund Sound into Norway 

But now it was time to get back on the road to the day's final destination - Oslo!  Driving down the freeway, we motored past beautiful wooded areas and roadside ditches filled with wildflowers - pink, purple and white lupine.  Crossing a tall bridge, Nina pointed out that the waterway below us (Svinesund Sound) formed the boundary between Sweden and Norway.  Reaching the other side, we arrived in our third country of the tour - Norway.

Lovely roadside lupine

From here, it took about two hours to reach the outskirts of Oslo.  As we approached the city, traffic got heavier and heavier.  With a metropolitan area exceeding one million people, there were lots of roads for our bus driver to navigate.  Getting closer to downtown, Nina explained that to make this part of Oslo more livable, city leaders decided to place all the freeways underground in a series of tunnels.  It was a weird feeling to dive into a tunnel with all the other traffic.  After our bus made a wrong turn and ended up in the opposite side of where we needed to be, driver Roger ducked back underground and wound around the tunnel maze again before popping out near our hotel.

Gustav Vigeland

Upon checking in to our hotel, we discovered that one of the two elevators wasn't working.  With the remaining elevator capacity only four people with luggage, and 27 people in our tour, it meant a bit of a wait for our turn in the elevator.  Kim and I would've just hoofed it up the stairs with our suitcases, but our room happened to be on the 7th floor.

Vigeland Sculpture Park

But eventually we all got up to our respective rooms.  After allowing a few minutes to unpack and use the restroom, everyone gathered back in the lobby for a late afternoon visit to Oslo's Vigeland Sculpture Park.

Kim strikes a pose

Vigeland Sculpture Park was located inside the larger Frogner City Park.  Created by Gustav Vigeland, Norway's greatest sculptor, this 80-acre area featured 212 bronze and granite sculptures, all designed by Vigeland.  Beloved by the people of Oslo, this park was well visited by both tourists and locals alike.

The Angry Boy - Vigeland's most famous sculpture

In 1921, Gustav Vigeland made a deal with the city of Olso.  In return for a place to locate his art studio and funding, he'd create sculptures to beautify Frogner Park.  From 1924 until his death in 1943, Vigeland did just that, designing and supervising the work to create this unique and wonderful outdoor art gallery.

Large fountain in the park's center

One item of note that we discovered upon entering the sculpture garden - all Vigeland's works were of people, and all of them were nude.

Selfie time!

Walking through the park's magnificent gates, the first thing I spotted was a sculpture of the artist himself, Gustav Vigeland.  Then a wide path took my friends and I to a 300-foot long bridge spanning a small pond.  Upon the bridge sat 58 bronze statues, all of the human body in different forms.  The sculptures were posed in many different fashions - people hugging each other, holding children, or striking an athletic position.

Falling water close-up

About halfway down one side of the bridge was a sculpture of a young boy who appeared to be throwing a temper tantrum.  Named the "Angry Boy" this was Vigeland's most famous statue and a symbol of the park.  The boy's left hand was worn shiny from people holding it for photo ops.

Nice views of the park

Further away from the bridge a large elaborate fountain rose from a giant pool of water.  Six sculptured people held the fountain bowl high.  Twenty other sculptures encircled the fountain's pool.  These particular art pieces featured trees and humans entwined and were made to symbolize the seasons of life.  Each of the four sides represented one of the seasons:  childhood, young love, adulthood, and winter.

More artwork

Beyond the fountain, the park's centerpiece artwork towered high atop a small hill.  It was a 50-foot tall monolith with 121 human figures carved into it.  Sculpted from a single 180-ton granite block, it took three stone carvers working every day 14 years to complete.

 

Huge monolith in the park's center

My friends and I trekked up a nearby set of stairs to have a closer look.  The monolith was surrounded a circular set of steps.  Upon the steps were placed more granite sculptures, 36 total, depicting more intertwined humans.

Sculptures surrounding the monolith

I thought the monolith itself was the most impressive sculpture in the park.  The human forms carved into the granite were exceptionally detailed.  The patterns of jumbled arms and legs, and way all those bodies fit together was remarkable.  I'm not an expert by any means, but I admired Vigeland's creativity to envision such an extraordinary work of art.

Another view of the monolith

Hamming for the camera

My friends and I enjoyed the pleasant evening weather while walking around admiring this incredible sculpture collection.

Amazing sculptures

Of course, again we didn't have nearly enough time to fully enjoy this unique outdoor art gallery.  After 45 way-too-short minutes, It was time to reboard our bus back to the hotel.  Our tour group had dinner reservations at a local restaurant and I surely didn't want to miss that.

This one kind of looked like an angel

Regrouping back at the hotel, guide Nina led our group on a walk through the streets of Oslo, passing by a few notable places on the way to our restaurant.

Nobel Peace Center

One such attraction was the Nobel Peace Center.  This building housed a museum showcasing the Nobel Peace Prize and the ideals it represents.  It also celebrated the work of Nobel Peace Prize winners.  Although the other Nobel prizes are awarded in Stockholm, the Peace Prize is exclusively presented in Oslo.

Nobel Peace Bench

In the plaza directly across from the Nobel Peace Center was a curved bench.  It's shape was created specifically to force people who might sit on it slide towards each other and have a conversation.  A nearby plaque was inscribed with the words of Nelson Mandela, himself a Peace Prize winner, which read "The best weapon is to sit down and talk."  Oh we surely need more of this mindset in today's troubled world!

Lotti and I sat down on the bench and one of my friends (I think it was Debbie) snapped this fabulous image of me on the bench, with the Peace Center in the background, and Mandela's quote in the foreground.  I love it!

Oslo ferry landing

Looking back towards the downtown area, I could see two tall brick towers rising above the adjacent buildings.  This was Oslo's city hall.  One tower had a large clock, and the other two banners proclaiming Oslo's 75th anniversary as a city.

Oslo city hall

From the Nobel Peace Center, Nina led us to a path the followed Oslo's bustling waterfront area.  Large ferries arrived and departed again, unloading passengers and taking on more.  Boats of all shapes and sizes were tied up at the numerous docks.

Oslo harbor

Finally, we arrived at our restaurant for the evening.  Two days prior, Nina had sent around three menu choices for tonight's dinner.  One of the options was reindeer.  Of course, I chose that!  When else would I have the opportunity to try something so exotic as reindeer?

With my tour friends waiting for our meals

When my meal arrived, I was pleased to discover my reindeer steak was tender and delicious.  The taste reminded me a little bit of elk.  It was served with potatoes, brussels sprouts, gravy, and a smear of lingonberry jam (the Scandinavians love their lingonberries!)

My reindeer steak was delicious!

After a delicious meal, Nina led everyone on an after dinner walk to explore more of downtown Oslo.  We followed the waterfront area past several works of public art.  

After dinner stroll 

Some of the sculptures were weirder than others.  The photo below depicts one of the more unusual pieces I saw.  Not sure what the blue statue is supposed to be or represent.  But I'm told a good piece of art is one that gets people talking.  This one did for me!

Very weird public art

Nina then led us away from the harbor and towards a fairly new development.  Tall buildings housed apartments and businesses on the upper floors.  Retail shops and restaurants occupied the ground floors.  A large plaza fanned out between the buildings, featuring a large playground, spots for outdoor dining, and many more sculptures.  The people of Oslo love their public art!

A redeveloped part of downtown Oslo

Rodney joined our group selfie!

Posing by a statue

Groovin' in the plaza

The statues gave us some good selfie opportunities.  My favorite, however, was a large blue astronaut.  

I really liked the spaceman statue

Spaceman selfie

There were also some colorful mop-like artwork suspended over the street by rows of tiny lights.  This won my prize for most unusual art in downtown Oslo.

This art looked like a bunch of mops

Our walk finally ended up back at the hotel, where Kim and I retired to our room.  It had been a very full day and Lotti was ready for bed!  (I was too.)

After such a busy day, Lotti was tuckered out!

Tomorrow we had an entire day to explore this vibrant capital city of Norway.  I couldn't wait!  Join me for my next blog post to see what my friends and I discover.