Theodore Roosevelt NP - More From Day Two

As promised, here's the part two recap of my second day at North Dakota's Theodore Roosevelt National Park.  If you missed my previous post about this park's wild horse herd, you can find it here.

C'mon in!

My day began before dawn, as I planned to capture sunrise over the lovely formations at the Painted Canyon Overlook.  Luckily it was a quick jaunt down I-94 to the rest stop to reach my desired vantage point.

Pre-sunrise sky at Painted Canyon Overlook

I was surprised by how many people were hanging out in a rest area this early.  There was a large group at the official overlook, so I chose an out-of-the way, but still dramatic, alternative.  After scoping out and settling in to my spot, I was still visited by a handful of bystanders, all here to watch dawn break.  

A good start to the morning

The sunrise was a good one.  First, streaky clouds lit up in lovely pink shades.  Then the sun made it's dramatic appearance in a blaze of orange and yellow.  Unfortunately, right before the sun crested over the horizon, some guy walked across the blufftop, right into my frame.  Ugh!  Good thing I have photoshop, I guess (also cropped out was a prominently placed "danger" sign near the cliff edge.)

Little Missouri River from Wind Canyon Overlook

After enjoying lovely morning light on the striped hills of the Painted Canyon, I headed back towards Medora and the main park entrance.  I've already covered the wild horse photo session in a previous post, so after spending half of the morning there I continued driving the park road, stopping occasionally when something caught my eye.

Mega-erosion

Making a daylight visit to last night's sunset spot, I found the Wind Canyon Overlook just as stunning in morning light.

I found this sign amusing

Coal deposits are found in the subsurface around TRNP.  When exposed to oxygen, coal veins can spontaneously combust.  Passing by the Boicourt Overlook, I noticed this unusual sign.  Apparently burning subsurface coal is a problem here, as well as the numerous well-intentioned people who report the fires.

Trail to Boicourt Overlook

Stopping at the Boicourt Trail, I took the short path here to an impressive overlook showcasing eroded hills and canyons spread out for miles.

Magnificent scenery at Badlands Overlook

But the best scenery of all was at the Badlands Overlook.  Normally the road through this South Unit of TRNP is a loop, but at the time of my visit the last few miles were closed due to a landslide.  The road now dead-ended at this overlook.  After spending a half hour soaking up the splendid landscapes and munching a granola bar, I turned around and retraced my steps (or tire tracks) back along the same road.

Nice blue skies too!

Another view from the Badlands Overlook......

Interesting rock formations

I saw these interesting formations - rocks balanced on top of narrow columns of eroded soil.  There was no place to pull over, so I stopped my car in the road and rolled down my window to snap a few pics.  (There wasn't much traffic)

A lone peak in the prairie

I noticed a "Peaceful Valley Ranch" on my park map, so decided to stop in and see what was there.  I found several ranch buildings, corrals, and some lovely cottonwood trees displaying their finest colors.

Lovely fall colors at the Peaceful Valley Ranch

According to park literature this place was a working ranch in the late 1800s, a dude ranch in the 1920s, headquarters for the CCC and WPA in the 1930s, and park headquarters in the 1950s and 60s.

Along the trail to the river

I noticed a short trail that took visitors to the banks of the Little Missouri River.  After spending most of the morning in my car, a hike sounded really good!  The trail was quite lovely, surrounded by golden cottonwood trees.

Scenery from the banks of the Little Missouri

Reaching the Little Missouri, I walked along it's shoreline for a half mile or so, enjoying the scenery and blue skies.  I met up with a friendly man and wife, who pointed out a solo wild horse standing on top of a nearby hill.

I spotted a herd of buffalo walking down to the river

I was just about to head back to the parking lot, when the people I'd been chatting with pointed upriver.  A huge buffalo herd had just crossed a nearby road and were sliding down the steep riverbank into the water.

Buffalo scattered about

This area looked pretty close to the park road, so I hustled back down the trail to my car and drove to the road crossing spot.  Luckily there was a really wide shoulder here so I was able to park.  Then I followed the trodden dirt through a prairie dog town to the river's edge.  Most of the buffalo herd were now on the opposite bank, so I felt safe despite the short distance.

Mother and calf

What a great vantage to photograph the shaggy beasts!  As I focused and clicked away, other visitors, seeing what I was up to, parked in the same wide spot and joined me on the bank.  I chatted with quite a few nice people from all over.

Evening light at Boicourt Overlook

By midafternoon I was tired and hungry so I took a break back in Medora, checking out one of the two local saloons that were still open (this was late September so the tourist season was winding down.) 

Sunset from Boicourt Overlook

Sunset was around 6:00 that evening, so about 5, I headed back to the park.  I was planning on going back to the Wind Canyon Overlook until the ranger at the entrance gate suggested trying the Boicourt Overlook.  He said there were far less people there, and thought it was the most beautiful place in the park to watch a sunset. 

Post-sunset sky

Okay, I was sold.  It was a little bit more driving but I had plenty of time.  From the parking area, it was about a mile walk to the overlook.  The weather wasn't as nice as the previous night - a strong wind whipped at my tripod and chilled me.  But when the sun finally went down, I realized the ranger was right.  The sunset was incredible, as was the scenery framing it.

The sky kept glowing as I walked back to the car

After sunset, knowing I had a mile walk back to the car, I hustled to pack up and get out of there before things turned totally dark.  But bright orange light lingered in the sky long after the sun had left, lighting my way and creating interesting patterns with the clouds.

I had a wonderful two days at this "new to me" National Park.  Theodore Roosevelt NP was full of surprises.  I didn't expect it to be so beautiful or have so much wildlife.  I definitely hit the peak of fall colors, and would recommend visiting in late September if you want to see this place in full autumn splendor.  Five stars, two thumbs up - definitely put this National Park on your bucket list!