Angels Rest

During the summer months, I avoid hiking in the Columbia River Gorge.  The trails are packed and, quite truthfully I don't think it's the prettiest season.  In my opinion, fall is the best time to visit the Gorge.  Fabulous turning autumn leaves put on quite a show, a perfect compliment to the already amazing scenery.

 

Lovely fall foliage near the trailhead

So when late October rolls around, I reacquaint myself with this "gorge"ous (pun intended!) corner of Oregon.  A couple of weeks ago, I was trying to decide on a Friday hike.  Knowing rain was forecast for the afternoon, I wanted a short trail close to home.  Angels Rest Trail popped on top of the list.

Colors glow through the trees

 

Angels Rest is an exposed bluff on the Western end of the Gorge's Oregon side.  The summit, composed of an old lava flow, follows a rocky spine exposed on three sides by cliffs.  This lofty promontory offers excellent panoramic views of the Columbia River below.  It feels as if you're on a balcony high above the river.

Alder forest

 

But due to the close proximity to the Portland Metro, combined with a relatively short distance (only 2.4 miles to the top) and picture-postcard views, this trail is wildly popular.  The trailhead regularly fills up early, and on weekends parked cars often line both sides of the highway.  Not a fan of uber-crowded trails, it had been many years since I'd visited Angels Rest. 
 

Angels Rest summit up ahead

 

But I reasoned that an early morning arrival would help avoid the masses.  The gloomy weather forecast for the day might also deter people.  My planned early start worked perfectly, giving me my choice of parking spaces in the small lot adjacent to the Scenic Highway.  The early bird gets the worm - or in my case - the parking spot!

Columbia River glimpses

 

This trail has the unfortunate distinction of being torched by wildfires twice during the 32 years I've lived in Oregon - once in 1991 and more recently with the infamous Eagle Creek Fire in 2017.  The 1991 fire burned the summit area while the 2017 blaze scorched most of the trail's route.  Today was the first time I'd hiked Angels Rest post-Eagle Creek fire and I was anxious to see how much damage had been done.

Recent wildfire damage

The damage was apparent from the start.  Huge Douglas firs near the trailhead bore black burn scars on their lower trunks.  But I was encouraged to see many of the deciduous trees had been spared, and were now defiantly showing off their best fall foliage.

Brilliant vine maple

An alder grove just past Coopey Creek crossing was looking beautiful, golden leaves shining through burned forest remnants.  I also enjoyed a few patches of brightly colored vine maple gracing the upper open slopes.  The only good thing about the wildfires - they did open up fabulous Gorge views from the trail.  They also provided a clear view of my destination ahead - the cliffs and rocky summit of Angels Rest.

Burned-out forest east of Angels Rest

 

Although the trail is short, it does climb steeply, gaining 1500 feet in just 2.4 miles.  I huffed and puffed along the upper switchbacks but made good time in reaching the rocky summit outcrop.  

Colorful bushes amidst the burned trees

All that was left to reach the viewpoint was a walk along the rocky spine itself.  As I scrambled across the wide open plateau, I noticed extreme fire damage to the forest directly east of the outcrop.  It was sad to see such beautiful woods totally obliterated, the trees gray skeletons of their former selves.  The only silver lining was patches of brightly colored bushes, obviously established post-fire, glowing through blackened trunks.

 

 

 

 

Perfect place for a bench

Although I'd met a few other people descending while on my uphill journey, I was pleased to find the summit deserted.  Bushwhacking and scrambling the final few feet I came upon my destination - a wooden bench placed at an especially commanding Columbia River viewpoint.

Classic Gorge view

 

From here I gazed at (and of course photographed!) the Columbia River's classic westward view.  Taking advantage of such nice seating, I rested on the bench and enjoyed my hot tea and a snack.  Reading a small plaque, I learned that it had been placed in memory of someone.  For that reason, I was saddened to see the wooden seat had been carved up and covered in graffiti - very disrespectful to the person it commemorated. (This is why we can't have nice things!!)

Angels Rest looking west

As I sat on my high perch, I noticed another woman peering through the bushes.  She appeared to be seeking the same viewpoint that I now occupied.  The woman lingered nearby for a few minutes, stealing occasional glances my way.  I assumed she was waiting for me to vacate the area.  But being in no hurry, I stubbornly held my ground, and ended up taking a much longer break than originally intended.  The woman finally gave up and moved on, and when I did decide to leave I found her sitting near the eastern end of the plateau.

Colorful understory

 

Because the trek to Angels Rest itself is such a short hike (for me anyway) in years past, I've added mileage by following a continuation of this trail as it contours the ridge directly to the east.  I climbed a short distance, and then rambled through more burned-out forest, stealing occasional glimpses back to Angels Rest, it's rocky cliffs now visible through newly-created openings in the forest.

Vibrant leaves

Although the fire damage here was sobering, I did enjoy the best autumn colors of my entire hike.  Bushy undergrowth had come back strong and their golden leaves brightened an otherwise gloomy forest.

More Angels Rest views

I followed this trail another half mile until it became overgrown and faint.  Several downed trees that had yet to be cleared also presented obstacles.  Deciding this was enough for the day (and also eyeing the sky - I wanted to beat the predicted afternoon rain) I turned tail and retraced my steps first back to Angels Rest and then downhill to the trailhead.  Although I'd had the path mostly to myself all morning, I met so many folks on my descent that when I reached the bottom I wasn't at all surprised to find both parking areas now overflowing.

 

Latourell Falls

No Gorge trip is complete without visiting at least one waterfall, so before heading home I made a short detour to nearby Latourell Falls.  One of my favorite Gorge cascades, it was looking mighty fine with some fall color accents.  As you can see, autumn is definitely the best time to not only hike the Gorge, but also to photograph it's waterfalls.

A great morning getaway - so glad I have such world-class scenery only a 45 minute drive away!