Fabulous Indian Heaven Wilderness

One of my favorite fall hiking destinations is southwest Washington's Indian Heaven Wilderness.  This 20,700 acre forested high plateau has numerous meadows, full of huckleberry bushes, and more than 150 lakes.  Due to the plethora of lakes, it's known as "mosquito heaven" during summer months.  But once September rolls around and the insects die off, this wilderness area turns into a wonderland of brilliant autumn color.

 

Tiny lake reflections

 

Beautiful fall colors aren't the only attractant.  The Indian Heaven Wilderness is also famous for the abundance of huckleberries ripening at summer's end.

Junction Lake surrounded by color

By late September I was yearning for my yearly autumn visit.  A few text messages later, I'd recruited my friend Catherine and her family to join me.

Colorful trail

 

Driving separate vehicles (COVID precautions, you know!) we embarked on the 2-plus hour drive to the East Crater Trailhead.  My all-time favorite Indian Heaven Wilderness hike originates here - via the East Crater Trail, a lollipop loop that circles Junction Lake, wanders past Lemei Lake and Clear Lake, before joining the PCT to complete the loop back at Junction Lake.  It's a route I try to hike nearly every fall season.

Blazing red huckleberry leaves

Joining me on today's trek were Catherine, her husband, and her youngest daughter.  After mostly hiking solo all summer I was thrilled to have the company.  Having other humans to chat with made the first two miles of the East Crater Trail go by in a flash.

Navigating a flooded trail

Before I knew it the huckleberry bush-filled meadows surrounding Junction Lake came into view.  Not only were the meadow grasses a lovely golden hue, the huckleberry bush leaves had turned brilliant shades of red and yellow.  A few (dozen!) photographs may have been taken by yours truly......

Golden meadow

 

Although Junction Lake was lovely, there was lots more to see.  So after tearing myself away from photographing it's colorful shore I hustled to catch up with my friends who were by now halfway up the ridge separating Junction and Lemei Lake.

More waterlogged trail

 

On top of the ridge our trail meandered through many truly spectacular subalpine meadows.  The autumn colors were some of the best I'd ever seen.  Backlit by the sun, huckleberry leaves glistened a fiery red.  Others glowed in bright yellow hues.

Meadow fringed with red

I didn't think September was particularly rainy, especially the first two weeks with all the smoke and wildfires.  However recent rainfall had saturated the meadows here and we encountered several places where the trail was very much underwater.  Most of the time my friends and I were able to rock-hop to avoid wet feet, but one particularly marshy spot I misjudged the water's depth and ended up nearly ankle deep.  (Good thing my hiking boots are waterproof!)

More fab fall colors

 

Soon my friends and I were descending the steep hill to Lemei Lake, our designated lunch spot.

Posing on a rock beside Lemei Lake

 

From past year's hikes, I remembered a couple of nice rocks along the lakeshore that made great sitting spots for lunch breaks.  However not only did the recent rainstorms flood nearby trails, they also swelled Lemei Lake's banks so much so that my favorite boulders were nearly into the lake.  Although we couldn't use the rocks for lunchtime seating they did make for some fun photo ops.

Red alley

 

As Catherine, her husband, and I rested and filled our bellies (their daughter decided to continue on with the understanding we'd catch up to her later) we noticed two horses emerge out of the woods and amble into the nearby meadow.  One of the horses had long ears and looked almost mule-like.  After much discussion whether the horse in question did indeed have mule blood, (and wondering if it would be rude to ask) Catherine's husband walked over, struck up a conversation with the riders, and was able to learn that one of the steeds was indeed part mule.

Droplets on the huckleberry leaves

Lunch break now finished, it was time to explore more of the trail.  My friends and I followed the path as it crossed Lemei Lake's outlet creek and wandered through more fabulous meadows.  At one point I left the trail for a quick "nature break" only to be distracted by the dew-dropped-covered huckleberry leaves.  I got so busy taking photos I nearly forgot the main reason I'd come here.

Looking for pikas on the talus slope

 

At the next trail junction we were reunited with Catherine's daughter who waited to ensure she was going the right direction.  Wandering past Clear Lake, we were passed by a huge group of backpackers, heading home from a weekend trip. (With it's many lakes, Indian Heaven Wilderness is a very popular backpacking destination)

Pride rock pose

 

Then we came upon a large talus slope.  From prior hikes, I remembered hearing and seeing pikas - tiny rabbit-like creatures, in between the rocks.  Catherine, her husband and daughter paused to see if we could find any.  Sure enough Catherine's eagle-eyed daughter spotted a pika perched on an outcropped rock, posing like "pride rock" in the Lion King movie.

Pika super close-up

 

Surprisingly the little creature didn't move.  I quickly switched to my zoom lens and crept closer.  Since pikas are extremely shy, I was expecting it to bolt at any moment.  But the pika remained sitting on the boulder.  I was able to get within 10 feet of the tiny rock-rabbit before he finally noticed my presence.  Once I lowered my camera lens, scared by the motion, he emitted a loud "meep" before bolting into a crevice between the rocks.

For those that are unfamiliar with pikas, I found the above short video online, and it does a great job capturing the personality of these cute little critters, as well as the unusual squeaking sound they make.

Lovely Junction Lake

 

After our one and only wildlife encounter, we continued on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) for the final leg back to Junction Lake.  Along the way, Catherine and her daughter found a few edible mushrooms, and we were passed by our new horseback rider (and mule-rider) friends.  We lost the equestrian duo when they were forced to detour around several large downed trees blocking the trail.

Junction Lake was especially scenic

 

Back at Junction Lake I launched into a final photographic frenzy, capturing more vibrant fall shades of the huckleberry leaves.

Back through the fall colors

 

The it was time to retrace our steps back along the East Crater Trail to our waiting vehicles.

Huckleberry picking

 

But not before Catherine filled her bottle with huckleberries!  We came upon a patch full of plump, ripe berries.  And once you get started picking, it's hard to stop.  It took some convincing before Catherine was ready to move on.

Backlit huckleberry leaves look like stained glass

 

As we ambled out of the berry patch, who should pass by but our horse-bound friends once again.  We waved final greetings as they cantered down the trail.

Horseback riders

A beautiful autumn day made even better by the fantastic changing leaf colors.  The Indian Heaven Wilderness is indeed one of the best places to hike in September.